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mharr

Member
  • Posts

    26
  • Joined

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Savannah Lakes Villages, SC

Player Profile

  • Age
    60 and over
  • Swing Speed
    91-100 mph
  • Handicap
    8
  • Frequency of Play/Practice
    Multiple times per week
  • Player Type
    Weekend Golfer
  • Biggest Strength
    Approach
  • Biggest Weakness
    Short Game
  • Fitted for Clubs
    Yes

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mharr's Achievements

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  1. THIS!!!! IN SPADES!!!! I tried it for 4 months, and it was a COMPLETE waste of time. I hit a driver into a 30 mph wind and it only goes 180 yds, and that affects your distance calculation. Hit a driver 310 yds downwind, and it affects your distance calculation. I have a 7-iron on uphill lie (added loft) to elevated green, and it gets to center of green at 125: I'm happy, but Arccos says my average for 7-iron drops. Yes, I understand that I can eliminate these "outliers", and adjust the numbers, but that eliminates the whole point of using their system, TO AUTOMATICALLY COLLECT THE DATA!!! I need to know what the distance each club is, and Arccos's number are completely unreliable! I had do many "oultliers" that I could not trust the their numbers. I know my numbers from time on driving ranges and simulators. When I have a shot, I need to factor yardage, lie, wind, and elevation, and Arccos gives bad info on one of them, and is useless on the others.
  2. However, having lived in Ohio most of my life, I do appreciate DST for spring thru fall. Sunrise is early enough in April and October, and that extra hour of daylight in the evening for outdoor activities is helpful for spring golf, softball, baseball, tennis or what have you. Personally, I think the current time change is best solution to the most people.
  3. True, except for area in the western side a time zone, sunrise would be close to 9am in December and January. It was too dangerous for kids to walk to school in pitch black nighttime. That was it was repealed almost immediately. But some people can't think about consequences beyond their own gratifications.
  4. You probably was holding the knife blade at 90º to the shaft. Hold if off at an angle, 45-60º, so that the blade slides between the grip and the shaft, and the hook can slice the grip.
  5. I originally switched because of back problems making it (a little) difficult to change shoes in the parking lot (I could swing ok, just problems bending over). So I put my gold shoes on at home, and put on loafers after golf. Then started wearing them in the clubhouse after golf, maybe restaurant or bar after that. That just cemented me that was more comfortable and convenient to go spikeless. Now, I also subscribe to Sam Snead's instruction on staying light on your feet, and in balance. Snead would practice barefoot to make sure he stayed in balance, if his feet slipped, he was off-balance. So, IMHO, if my feet slip, it's due to a bad swing, not bad shoes, and I need to stay in balance. I see that the players that need spikes, also spray the ball all over the place, and I don't think that is a coincidence.
  6. I augment my wedges every other year or so, trying Cleveland CB's, Ping, Mack Daddy, in different lofts/bounce combinations. (I have wedges in every 2º loft increment from 46º-60º, and the 54º or 56º in bounces of 8º,10º,12º, and 60º in 4º,6º,10º.). But I eventually keep going back to my 30-year-old Cleveland 588's (56º/12º, 60º/4º), sometimes refreshing the grooves every 3-4 years. Just switched back to them from Ping Glide 3.0's 2 weeks ago, and holed a short-sided bunker shot with its first use!
  7. Sorry that your topic got hijacked into a 14-way vs 4-way debate. I''m not sure, but looking at the Ping site and current offerings online for 2020 and 2021, they look the same. It does look like 2022 has some new colors: Tan, Cardinal, Navy and Multicam.
  8. But watch to make sure the 14 slots have FULL LENGTH dividers. I got the Ping Hoofer 14 to have the dividers, and was very disappointed the dividers only go down 12-15" from the top. So the clubs still get tangled at the bottom, and have a hard time putting them in or taking a club out. Enough so that I traded my Ping Hoofer 14 to one with 4-way top.
  9. I use a 14-way for on a cart (Ping DLX), and a 5-way stand bag (Ping Hoofer) with 2 dividers for walking. Key with the 14 way is to make sure it has full length dividers Advantages for 14-way: Grips don't rub against each other, easier to organize the clubs in the bag and (as others pointed out) see when you might be missing a club, less likely to select a wrong club (I always make sure 6, 8, 9 are apart from each other). Disadvantages: 14-way bags are generally heavier to carry, oversize grips (i.e. "jumbo" arthritic grips or "Mo Norman" non-tapered grips) might have tight fit. Advantages for 3-, 4-, 5-way: Bag is lighter for carrying, easier to put clubs in, takes up less room in the trunk of your car. The key with any bag (but especially for 14-way bag) is to have full-length dividers. If not, grips will still get tangled and hard to put in or take out. I had a Ping Hoofer 14, thinking it would be best for both walking and cart, but it only had two dividers going full length, and club grips still got tangled up, so I traded it in for Ping Hoofer 4-way. Hope that helps!
  10. Like you, I have had SkyCaddie for pretty much as long, and have had the SX500 since it came out. I have not had that issue with the screen. The only issue I had was a short on the touchscreen that gave "phantom" touches on the screen that would cause the screen to change as if I tapped on it (usually lower right corner). I think I may have caused the issue as I used a cart holder that squeezed the sides tightly, and I assumed damaged the side. So I upgraded to the SX550 a few months ago. And I am very glad I did; the startup on the SX550 is much, much faster, and having the charging port on top is much easier to use.
  11. Of course I don't wear golf "spikeless" shoes all day, every day. But on days that I play, I just find it easier to put them on at home, go to the course and maybe drinks or meal afterwards, and take them off when I get home. To each, his own.
  12. While I cannot claim to play well enough to give advice overall how to play sand shots, I would like to address you specific situation with the unusual hard sand you encountered. When I have a sand shot out of hard sand (wet, frozen, not groomed, or mostly dirt), or when playing green side hardpan lie, I use a 60º wedge with 4º bounce, and just play the normal shot I would with a regular 56º/10º sand wedge. The low bounce will keep it from bouncing and blading the ball, but being a moderately wide sole (wider than an iron), it will not dig. That allows me to play the same swing, same feel as my usual sand shot.
  13. To me, those that say they NEED spiked shoes, usually means they are off-balance during their swing. The greatest swing in the history of the game, Sam Snead, would play practice rounds barefoot. He said it helped him to tell when he was swinging too hard, and when he was off-balance. If his foot slipped, it was time to pay attention to his balance and footwork, as he was getting sloppy with the swing. So (at least in my opinion) spiked shoes encourage bad swings. Now, if I was playing tournaments for decent money, I would wear spiked shoes for tournament play, but spikeless for practice rounds and on the range. So I look for: comfortable shoes, stable shoes that I will not slide in the shoes, keep my feet dry (I am a dewsweeper), and give enough grip for walking hills with wet grass without slipping. Spikeless provides the extra benefit that I don't have to change shoes after a round, I can go to clubhouse, another bar or restaurant for lunch, dinner, or drinks. The FootJoys, especially the Flex models, are my favorites of the 10 pairs of golf shoes that I wear (4 FJ Flex, 1 FJ Superlights, 2 Ecco, 2 Adidas, 1 Puma).
  14. In addition to the many helpful posts here, there is something else you might want to consider. I notice in your list of drives/results, you hit an (at least) Ok drive, but was in bad position (thru a dogleg, etc.). I would suggest instead of automatically pulling driver on the tee, pick a target. Then decide what club gives me the best chance to hit that target. Your target might be determined by the hole layout (corner of the dogleg, before or over a cross bunker or creek, wider part of fairway), and also consider where you want to hit your next shot from, what is your best layup. Is it 150? 125? 100? What distance will get you there? Then determine what club I have that I have good confidence to get me there? Playing a smart strategy might help a lot more than just pulling the big stick and chase it wherever it goes. That might give you a better perspective on playing "the right way".
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