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Donn lost in San Diego

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    San Diego
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    wine, investing, looking for a 90 score
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  1. WiTerp I disagree. My chipper is for shots near or on the fringe, not sand or heavy rough. The loft is a long iron, not wedge, the bounce is minimal. The ball gets 12" to 18" off the ground. My sand is another classic oldie, the Hogan Sure-Out, pretty sure it is a 56 deg 14 b. with a huge sole. In the rough close to the green, I use either Mizu wedge or maybe the shallower bounce and narrow sole on my Ping I 500s, 7,8,9, W, depends on each lie. In real bad rough, maybe the Hogan with 14 deg bounce fits the bill. Sometimes I bring my Ginty 2 copper sandwedge tho, it has a lot of weight and a sharp leading edge for rough, or longer yardage than I like for the Up-N-In.
  2. For $20 or $30 you can get one of these chippers on ebay right now and give it a try.
  3. 1. Length of the shaft. 2. Lie angle. 3. Size and type of sole, flat, bounce, wide, etc. i.e. grind. 4. Material made from. 5. Groove or in case of Don Martin, no groove. 6. Grip style. 7. And while I am not yet very good, injury/ spine like Stacy Lewis before her surgery, I think many golfers can ditch a long club. How many clubs do you actually use between your driver and your 5 iron? Or as one person on this topic said, he found out he never used his 58 degree wedge. I carry a 60, but if I ever needed to drop a club, I can hit very accurate with my Mizuno 52/09. I almost never need to try a Phil Mickelson style flop shot with the 60 deg wedge. So, while the pros and 3 hdcp folks can do the work with their 58 or 60, it takes many more hours of practice compared to a few hours of practice with a dedicated chipper. Everything about my 7 or 6 iron is designed for the full swing and contact from fairway. Those become un-friendly when chipping. I used to chip all the time with a 7 iron but the chipper is way more accurate. Especially, as I wrote, the Don Martin for smaller greens, the Thompson if I play on large greens.
  4. Get a chipper. No brainer. I have 2 from the 1950s or 60s. I use a Don Martin Up-n-In, bronze, grooveless, the orig grip is a square brown leather, loft is probably a 2 iron. I also have a Stan Thompson, famous guy for the Ginty designs. He made a ClosUp, a nice chrome wide groove job, loft is prob. 3 iron. The Martin is better for smaller greens, closer use, the Close-Up I would use where the greens and fringes are larger and you are making longer chips. Both guys were in southern Calif. Ebay, baby, Ebay, or maybe try club finder or your local $5 bargain barrels. Right now I see both on ebay.
  5. Learn what bounce is, what it does, and have at least 1 wedge with a lot more bounce than your other wedges. 6 degrees is low, 16 is high. Typically a sand wedge has 14 or 16 degrees bounce, so if your Wilson set includes a sand, as you say, it prob. has the big bounce. Nothing wrong with trying a 60 degree, most golfers have 1 wedge they use the most. I love Mizuno wedges, the grain flow forged (GFF), a theoretically superior piece of metal with highest uniformity of the molecular structure. hoo hah! but they feel very responsive. I have a 6 year old 52 degree 9 bounce that is my best club. I bot a spare too, nevermind the latest model.
  6. Is it a free for all among the iron brands or is there a leader? Years ago, Ping Eye 2, Ping Zing, Zing 2 were dominant. More recently, Callaway Apex? Titleist is often #1, right? Does anybody know now if there is an iron in use by at least 25% of PGA Tour? I am just curious, I am not going to chase. I like my Ping I 500. But I would trade them in for old Ping Eye if I could stay injury free for 2 years.
  7. Re: wood putter, I have a wooden mallet from Dave Musty, came to own it sort of by accident. Love it. I am probably going to order one from him with internal weights to stabilize it on short distance putts. I use face balance putter. I have used various ones and like the woodie more than my Scotty or new-ish Ping. Musty is a skilled cabinet maker woodworker. His website is nice. Good luck.
  8. Can o worms. weights are only part of the story. tips and kick points are important but are not reduced to a common number. try em, feel em, hit em. If you really want to increase swing speed, probably need a lighter weight or lighter swing weight. For fun, I would pick up used clubs at thrift stores, hit them at the range for practice, or use for a few rounds, and give them away again.
  9. Plenty of Ping Eye 2 and King Cobra Oversize sets out here in foozle-land. But I would not put too much faith in old graphite shafts. I think technology in shafts moved a lot faster than tinkering with variations on the Eye 2 or Cobra iron club heads.
  10. Your putter is just like the other 13 clubs. You are best off by understanding a little of the dynamics, and your own stroke. Try different styles and then get a fit. New technology allows you to get a closer fit to your own stroke, more feedback into your hands, less likely for a off-angle contact.
  11. I use an old chipper, grooveless bronze Don Martin Up-n-In. Practice practice practice on bad lies. Practice putting the ball on the collar or in front of a large clump (obstacle) and force yourself to hit down. Chipping with a regular length club is harder than chipping with a shorter shaft chipper.
  12. Since you are new: Before you buy or even get fitted, try putting cross handed. It takes a while to get used to it. I wrap my left hand loosely around the shaft below the right hand, with the index finger placed on the shaft pointing to the ground. Practice with several different types of putters, my advice is a face balanced mallet type. And here is a real kicker: on long putts, look at the hole or your path, don't look at the ball. Learn to stroke the ball cleanly without having to see it. After you try this for a while, then you can decide to go for a fitting. But a fitting is to find a tool, not your technique. Find your technique first. I adopted this in 2015 when Jordan Spieth first made a big splash. I am very accurate on long putts. After a lot of time on practice green, I am now ready for a fitting but I know pretty closely what change to my current putter I want, 2 small changes. For what it is worth . . . .
  13. Hey FOZCYCLE. How do you like your PXG 0211 driver? I just ordered one, on the riptide 40 gram a flex. (I'm a slug, 66 yrs, curved spine, can't move driver anywhere near as fast a 40 inch or shorter shaft, hence the A flex driver.)
  14. I love my Mizuno wedges. S18, T5, T7, I have five of them from 50 deg to 60 deg, all are classic style, Grain Flow Forged. Not the JPX stuff. But I do use an old original Hogan 56 x 12 or 14 bounce Sure Out sand with the big heavy sole. I will eventually use a Mizu for more accuracy but the Hogan is truly Sure Out as long as you swing thru the shot and trust the club to do its' thing. I also use a chipper around the fringe instead of a wedge. I have an old bronze Don Martin Up-n-In. I don't worry about where the ball might go, it is always accurate directionally. Stan Thompson also made one called Close Up. I have one of those too but I like the grooveless bronze Martin. Both guys were club creators in Palm Springs area years ago. Thompson is known for his Ginty and Ginty 2 woods and irons. Martin also made putters.
  15. I had Nike Vapor Fly, their last big sole fancy cavity/cast GI or Super GI iron, before leaving the club mfg biz in 2016. I hit them well. But I wanted more blade-like club on short irons, especially narrow sole. I was fitted at Carlsbad Golf Ctr in Carlsbad CA. Got Ping I 500 for 8-9-W. Love them. Forged face on a cast back. Narrow sole allows more precise shot and forge face has better "feel". I added a 6 iron.
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