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About Rtracymog

  • Birthday 03/29/1983

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    Livonia, MI
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  1. Yeah if I got them, I would definitely be reshafting them. None of the shafts really match what I'm looking for. How was the gapping? I noticed that they started to have some bigger gaps as the irons went up. I would be looking at bending some of the irons 3 weak. Also, I noticed the lengths weren't very consistent, so I was just wondering how you found them. Thanks!
  2. Hi Spies! I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with the PXG 0211 ST blades? Right now they are $75 a piece on the PXG website and I can't think of any other blades/players irons at that price range. I don't know how long the sale is for and the shafts are super limited, but I was thinking about doing my own build with these and selling the shafts. Does anyone have any experience with them? I currently play the W/S model blades in the 7-PW, so I'm used to having to strike the center. Thanks in advance!
  3. Do you need to change the lie angle when measuring woods or hybrids or do you stick with the consistent 60 degrees all the time? Looks like a simple, effective tool to have! Thanks!
  4. I bought a fairly cheap 1x30 sander from harbor freight and it's worked just fine. I also bought a nice clamp from Rex on golfclubtraders.com and it has worked out well. I, unfortuneately, received a workbench that is mostly metal with an inch or so of wood on top, so a full vice isn't really an option. Also, mine is on wheels so it makes it a little annoying when installing grips. As far as the ferrules go, I bought a ferrule specific belt for the sander from golfworks. Most of the ferrules don't stick out too far, so you can can just use some acetone and spin the club a few times to get what you want. Just be careful with the acetone, because it will eat at the ferrule if you don't move quickly! Good luck!
  5. Ping really likes the idea of counterbalancing. Their shafts are counterbalanced and I'm pretty sure that in the last few generations, most of the stock offerings are counterbalanced. Tensei orange, hzrdus yellow and even the evenflow black to an extent.
  6. Your Ping Tour shaft is counterbalanced so that's why it's going to feel lighter. Color seems to be pretty important so you might be eliminating some good options. If you choose the 60g Hzrdus yellow, you should be fine. Plus, if you're only 105-108 with the driver, you probably don't need an X in the 3 wood.
  7. I can second this! Watched some videos online on how to do it without one and I ended up breaking the tip on a driver shaft. Maybe you can take them to a shop and they will pull the heads cheaper than buying your own puller.
  8. I've done paint fill on black Cleveland wedges and an old Rife Aussie putter and I've never had any issues with the black coming off. If you're filling in small areas, I would suggest going to harbor freight or something and getting a dental pick set. I used to use toothpicks, but I would go through a lot of them. Just be careful not to scratch the finish!
  9. Hi Johnny! Thanks for doing this! I understand Callaway's current iron line has literally a club for every type of golfer. With that in mind, I have a couple of questions: 1. How much overlap is there when designing or creating clubs that fit the same style or type of player? (Apex, Mavrik Pro, x forged cb, etc.) 2. With all of those iron lines, is there any push back from off site golf shops (not big box stores) about the amount of product they need to carry on the floor or in inventory?
  10. Thanks! I’ll give it a try. Not much to lose at this point!
  11. Yeah I think I learned my lesson here. So yes the tip broke in the old adapter. I was able to cut it, trim off the stray fibers and prep the tip for the new adapter. It was already tipped 1” and is it will be tipped about 1 3/4.” Hopefully it’s not too stout!
  12. This was my first time working with graphite and pulling a head. I’ve built a couple of wedges in the past. I actually watch a ton of your videos and they are very helpful! Quick question while I have your attention: do I need to use glass shafting beads with a new adapter? I know I need them with the steel, but I haven’t seen you use them in an adapter. Thanks!
  13. Hey Spies! I built myself a nice little home shop (I’ll do a little thread on that later) and decided to take the next step in building a driver. Found a pristine G30 LST head for cheap and I had an old Rogue Silver laying around so I said, “Why not?” So the Rogue Silver had a Wilson tip on it that I had to remove. Without a shaft puller, this was a nightmare. I tried some methods from a few online videos and nothing worked. So unfortunately after an hour of working on it, the tip broke. Luckily the Wilson adapter didn’t have much of the shaft in it. Does anyone know how to remove an adapter without a puller or am I better off taking the next one to a shop? So I got the tip all fixed up (guess I’m playing it tipped about 1 3/4”) and it will be shorter than normal (about 44 3/4) which I might not hate, but my major issue is that it came out to a swing weight of like C4. To put that in perspective my Old Biocell+ was about D4 and my Cortex is about D7. The weight in the head was 10g, so I bought a 20g off of eBay and I’m hoping it will come out in the D0-C9 range. I’ll add some more to this thread as I get more in! Any feedback would be great!
  14. Congrats guys! Looking forward to the results!
  15. I think that this is a great concept, but as someone who has a tipped shaft, I don't think that this one is for me. Good luck to all the applicants! One question I do have is that if you try out your three drivers/year and want to go back and buy the first one, does Dollar Driver Club give you any credit towards that purchase?
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