Slypanther

They look like the graphics as my set, hope you you get them cheap, everyone has lost confidence in the Nike hard goods, Maltby rated these the easiest blade to play

I gave up trying to encourage the head pro to enforce a dress code after I asked him about a female golfer who plays in Lulu Mon 20 years ago; but hey, she looks good and she won two Gold Medals in the Olympics.

I had a Callaway VFT driver that developed a split in the face. It ran across the face in alignment with the score lines. Sent it in to Callaway and they did not have that club in stock. They sent me the next (new) driver currently sold at retail so I was feeling pretty good. Kept that driver to today, will likely send in as trade with on line club seller towards a more recent model or a new uncut Graphite shaft. Used graphite are un reliable, shaft can react poorly after the heat gun used to extract from clubhead. local club makers use driver pulls in fairway and Hybrid play clubs as they can tip trim to club spec. I have several Tit**list and Ta*****ade adjustable tips. I can use to reuse shafts if I want to.

February 1997, Stadium Course Phoenix. 10th Anniversary vacation, was really looking forward to a tour hosting course; $165 included cart and range, not at all happy with the cost, even less so with the course conditions. Some fairways near water hazards soggy, bunkers had no sand unless you count just enough to provide correct color. Square grooved Cleveland 56* with Balata ball from 99 yards middle of fairway, excellent strike hit 3 feet short of flag, but ball ended up 20 feet past, sprouting what I call frog hairs, balata still in grooves before wipe down. Testament to the lack of maintenance. I played decently, but no course record. Played a new course later in the week, their price was only $35 including cart. I believe it has hosted a LPGA tourney since then. Their prices have now increased as all the others, but it is a better course than the Stadium course. Plenty of courses in the Monterrey Bay area with steep discounts for mid week, and after 3pm. Will never play Pebble Beach, rich show off prices, it was $40 - $50 in the 80's, but I was only earning $7.50 hour so not in my budget. Played at TPC Harding Park for 2 decades before the remodel, was just referred to as Harding. Played there in 1993 for Mid Amateur qualifying, led after the first round, but developed severe fore foot blister during second round, the USGA officials would not allow me to withdraw, I had no hope for qualifying, should have just walked off the course. Bleeding blister on right foot. After the TPC remodel, I played it once to see the revisions, don't remember the fees, but sure it was > $100, the 3rd tee was 100 yards further back on what was a challenging 550 yard double left dogleg, it was so difficult that I only birdied once in a all my 100's of rounds. Worked at the range, and then in the Pro Shop, lousy wages, but all the golf I wanted.

I will work on my accumulated stash of Pro V1 2015 - 2023. I have a few dozen Pro V1x's from their start in '03, and some original 2001 Pro V1's. In testing the older balls lose spin and distance; 40 yards off the driver, 30 yards off the irons.

Dynamic Gold 105 Regular, five sets. Project X wood shafts, Fujikura Wood shafts, Aldila NV Green in 65, 75, 85 weights wood shafts, Hybrid shafts. I have a lot of decisions to make of which clubs I keep, what I will sell/donate to a children's out reach program for their benefit. Have been a club ho since '91, many many sets, woods, wedges, ironically only 6-7 putters, about 100 wedges, mostly Vokeys from pre 2010 change in groove rules. I do have a couple of post 2010 cc for if I ever play a tourney again. Sold my Titleist PTs 8.5, 13, 17, all gone, they were sweet, but needed to fund new purchase's. Sold my Cleveland Irons that had two tourney wins to their names. Still have a set of 588's that I need to Loft and Lie back to their original specs. Very pretty but for minor marks on the hosels, very hard castings, need to be very slow and patient to move the hosels, I have had only one break during adjustment, pretty good record for over 30 years of adjustments.. with the new shafts I have purchased GP Tour Velvet in midsize, and High Tac Again I await the time that I am allowed to post sales into the clubs for sale forum.

When is the Nike TW Collection going to be on clearance?

My swing speed s slower after 6 shoulder surguries, can not use 1-2-3-4-5 irons. Current bag is putter, Scotty in 6 models, MP5 or MP221 or MP29, 6-pw, gap wedge (working on one that one as the clubs now have different carry distances) 54* sand wedge Hogan 53, (grew up to number 2 on college team as I could make it lay down like a dog, or 2 bouce and stop) Now a vokey 54 and vokey 60 or 62. Top end of bag Driver, 3 wook set up HL as 4 wood, Hybrid 27, 24, 20; the 20 can come out to add a 7 wood. This total is 14, I pick and choose which club to leave behind/add. Sets In the garage from previous eras (and still used upon personal preference) MB 714, two of these, need to be sold or shaft pulled and sell the shafts, (DGTI X100, and Project X 7.0), AP2, TMB Blade, 680, 681, 990B, DCI-B, 962B (this within the direct central impact - product line, not sure the exact model name) 962B, 762B, 670, Hogan Apex II, 1 - pw, Hogan 54* sandwedge ( I have three of these) Hogan Sure Out, 2 of these; when the course dumps new sand in the bunkers this become a absolute neccessity. If anay want to DM me about my inventory, I do not have the prerequisites to submit to the BST, but have many more in the garage and I need to cut back 50 - 75%.

I'm reshafting a set of Muirfields matching serial numbers (not 20th) with shafts my current swing can actually use. Also doing same with Mizuno MP5's

I have used 56* Cleveland 588, 57* 588, 60* 588, and 64* 588. Vokey has been in my bag through the year 52* SM7, 54* Raw, 58* bent to 56*, I'll likely bend it to 54*, Multiple 54*'s SM5, 60* SM4, a selection of design from over the prior years with 4*, 8*, 10* bounce: lastly my Vokey 60* bent to 64* the year before they offered the next year, that leaves my Vokey 62* to finish out my bag full of wedges that see some play each year, 20 years ago I decided that my wedge shots were flighting too high due to the new ball construction, having played balata, early urethane Professional, Tour Prestige, and removed the lead tape from the low back to now lead tape high on the back of the blade, some meticulous blade work to stay off the topline on the back, and installing X100's into the head, I have acheived my goal of lower filght, and late 2000, Pro V1 and high spin, flying a little shorter, but with wedges its not the furtest you can hit it but knowing your gapping and the shot the club was designed for, or shots that are not mishit with high grass surrounding the ball. My curious group mates ask why I put lead tape on the very back of my drivers, (MOI), lead tape on top some of my fairwoods (flight too high), not understanding the physics applied to golf equipment. Currently in my cart bag on my cart, TMB PW (45*) 48* Vokey, 54* Vokey, 60* Vokey. Being able to manufacture some shots to be useful, despite the differing of wedge loft.

My favored iron set has a 49 degree pitching wedge, hence I use a 54 degree SW, and a 60 degree lob wedge. If I change to another of my iron sets, 47 degree PW, 50 degree GW, 54 SW, 60 lob. This month when greens are baked concrete I have 62 lw, a couple of 64's, and a 68. And one of my 56s has a lot of relief from when the bunkers had no sand. I believe I am ready for most any course conditions with my wedges. I do have to chose a top end mix if I add any wedges.

We joined January of 1995. Started with the Social Golf - $1,500 initiation. $125 month dues. One round per month each family menber. Full access to Club House, weight room, lockers, showers, towels, practice facilities, grass April through October, high quality mats November through March. Six mats covered against rain, most wind, but there is a entry panal at the back that keeps the cover from blowing away in a strong wind. Sand Bunker kept in pristine shape, if the course bunkers were rebuilt, so was the practice bunker. Two large putting greens, the favored one is mostly flat, you'll find me of the sloped green reading break and speed IRL practice. When we improved our finacials, stepped up the associate member, golf on weekdays, $8000, less our $1500 $299 month dues; up to then Monthly minimum was $50, the food was fantastic, Easter, Mothers Day brunches were the best I have ever encountered. Full Membership came soon afterward so I could compete in the club tournaments; $24,000 less our $8000, dues up to $399. I practiced 4 -5 days a week, just like in college, my index dropped into the low 2's, entered some state tourneys, USGA qualifiers, held at the course, it is the best maintained course around, as good as Rams Hill San Diego CA 2016, fantastic experience. One two round qualifier I led after the first day, but developed a huge blister on the ball of my left foot and could not make a consistent swing. Asked to withdraw on the back nine round two, the marshall strongly encourged me to finish the round; I was completely out of the qualifying, had no chance to gain back any ground. Finished the round with bleeding left foot, could not walk for around 2 weeks. Never entered a USGA event again. The course changed ownership, the kitchen has never been the same, 2008 - 2011 invited people to join no initiation fees, just monthly dues, jacked up tp $800 month, food minimum $80 month. We reduced our membership down to Social Golf, one round per month, Dues $375, which I think is ridiculous. We paid the initation fee, and paid our dues, even in the recession, but now they will not adjust our dues to compensate for paying full price up front. The only saving grace in this private course nightmare is Jan 2025 we are supposed to be refunded out initiation, $24000. If they voice any objection I will bring my contract to a lawyer for complete reimbursement, plus punitive damages, plus lawyer fees. I'm sure they have some lawyers retained by the current owners, but if I can get it before a Judge quickly, I will receive my money quickly (less 30 years lost to inflation). Course is still very well maintained, the greens are fantastic, bunkers are fantastic, fairways and tees not as pristine as in the past, but better than most country clubs in the area. Plus your still a full member. That brings up another perk. You could play another private club once a month, eight foursomes a month, split up however the hosting club desired, all the private clubs joined the program, this gives you a chance for a little variety, and if well planned, play the course before the club vs club monthly competition

The suggestion to sand the grips if during a round; DQ for altering the club during the round. I agree with using mild dish soap and the green scrub side of a sponge, not too much elbow grease, just a couble of lbs of pressure, I also use a firm nylon brush to get into the grooves (I use tour velvet). I also copy what I witnessed at the 1992 US Open by a caddy, a good scrub with a damp towel followed with using the other end to dry them. I do this every shot before I use the club, scrubbing with a towel is not illegal and I really enjoy the new grip tackiness. Replace the grips after 3 - 4 years as oxidation will affect the grip rubber. Separate damp towel for club heads, clean contact is best. If you clean the grips each shot, after round cleaning is very easy.

True Temper Dynamic Gold R 105 into my AP2's; LZ 4.5 into my D3. Work on my wedges, some DGS 400 39.5's or 40's into some Titleist Wedges. A lot cheaper than buying new clubs that offer no significant improvements over 10 year old models.

Mitchell