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  • Age
  • Swing Speed
    91-100 mph
  • Handicap
  • Frequency of Play/Practice
    A few times per month
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  • Biggest Strength
    Short Game
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    Driver/Off the Tee
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Calvo90's Achievements



  1. I am happy to make contribution to this topic I have been following for quite some time and think that brings out the best out of people. After close to 8 months of intense studying during state mandated temporary closure of non-essential businesses because of Covid, getting deep understanding of about 2 cubic meters of essential study material and exam that lasted 3 days I am happy to report that a few days ago I passed the bar - main law exam on my way to becoming a lawyer. Considering the situation approx. 700 km to the east I just hope that the time and energy I spent studying slovenian law was not in vain because I should have studied russian ''law''.
  2. I know some OEM adjust weights to accomodate length changes on orders of new clubs but i wouldn't say that is necessary the case with other vendors. I would suggest measuring the swing weight yourself using at least internet swing weight calculator (like: https://www.hirekogolf.com/golf-clubfitting-assembled-swingweight-calculator) or preferably swing weight scale. Adjusting swing weight is simple: Just add 2g of weight to the club head to increase swing weight by 1 point but rather than going deep in the numbers i would suggest trying the club as is and in case it is too light or it overdraws, add 2g to the head and make a couple of swings again etc.
  3. For me it is necessay to adjust swing weight with any changes of club length that exceed 0,25 inch. Adjusting swing weight can be done in a number of ways, some are simpler than others. I don't like tip weights because I prefer to add weigh somewhere behind strike point on the head hence I use shaft tip weights as a last resort when i don't want lead tape on the head (like in irons). For the purposes of testing I used lead tape because it is easier to add it and remove it on the go. Since I painted the lead tape and camouflaged it onto the clubhead i will probably leave it as is but I was also thinking about using Rattlestop to discretely add some weight inside the head through the weight port but that takes a bit more experience and caution because correcting mistakes is incredibly hard. The other option is also changing weights on the club. On Taylormade SIM Ti OG (like on many other clubs) there is single front weight that can be removed and changed for a heavier one. Stock weight was only 2g whereas it is possible to buy heavier weights in 2g increment up to 10 or 12g. I was worried that adding more weight toward the front of the club would reduce the spin too much and make my problems with shape even worse so I passed on this option.
  4. Update on my experiment: I changed shafts and put 5 wood shaft in my 3 wood (Taylormade SIM Ti OG). I weighted both 3 wood and 5 wood head and put enough lead tape on the toe side of the V-sole to match 3 wood head weight to 5 wood head weight. Just to make it pretty I colored the lead tape with black sharpie so you have to really look carefully to see the lead tape. I played two rounds on the course and a couple of hours on tha grass field in front of my house. I am happy to report two things: First, I managed not to smash any of the house windows and second, my experiment worked as expected. Previously, at standard length I had to lower the loft on my 3 wood by at least 1,5 degrees to stop the ball from hooking, which made the club unusable from fairway. Now I can play the fairway wood at standard loft to play lovely baby fades from the fairway that are more than capable of holding the green and high straight ball from the tee which is unheard of for me. I even increased loft by one click which produced dead straight and high ball flight (even on mishits) from the fairway and 5 yard draws from the tee. Additional bonus is the fact that 3 wood sits lovely, flush to the ground, and even with just 1 inch of length difference the head looks even bigger which inspires even more confidence. Before I cut down the shaft on my 5 wood I will play a bit more golf to get more data and give the golfing gods enough time to show me any problems I have not yet noticed. Regardless I am exstatic with the results and recommend this experiment to anyone who is struggling with overhooking their fairway wood.
  5. Bro, do you even embargo?
  6. Thank you for advice. May I ask what length fairway wood shafts are you playing? Gripping down does not feel the same to me but luckily shafts in my 3 and 5 wood can be swapped. What I will probably do is that I will put 5 wood shaft into 3 wood, which is 1'' shorter, put appropriate amount of lead tape on toe of the club to keep the same swing weight and play with the club for a couple of weeks. That should give me more insight if cutting down works as should on the paper.
  7. Hello everyone, I was wondering: Shorter driver lengths are quite common and topic of cutting down driver to obtain more control without sacrificing much of the distance (if any) has been debated ad nauseaum both on forums and on youtube. The results are clear and pretty much consistent across all testers (even MGS did a test a couple of years back). But when it comes to playing shorter fairway woods, I noticed there is little to no debate. I managed to found some on WRX forum but the debate seems to have stopped in paleolitic age. So I was wondering what MGS forum members' experience with shorter fairway wood shafts is? I am asking because I am seriously thinking about cuting down my 3 and 5 wood Taylormade SIM fairway wood for about an inch, so 3 wood (43,25'') would basically play at 5 wood length (42,25'') and 5 wood at 7 wood length (41,25''). I don't really seek better contact because I strike fairway woods pretty good, but because my tendency with fairway woods is to hit a draw, which has about 30% chance of turning into nasty hook off the tee or pull/draw off the fairway. Turning the loft on 5 wood on low setting which opens the face helps quite a bit but the downside is it turns 5 wood into 4 wood and not weak 5/6 wood I was hoping for. The main problem is with my 3 wood, which I cannot turn much lower because it is simply not functional off the fairway. When it comes to 3 wood I have to choose between standard loft setting with looming dreaded hook or lower settings which straighten my shots but lower my ball flight and turn my shots into devastating low spin smother hooks when hit on the toe of the club. If I didn't otherwise love my 3 wood I would simply get rid of it but I am convinced both of us can smooth out turbulent relationship and with a little adjustments have something special. I think shortening fairway wood shafts could be the solution to my problems. Shortening fairway wood shaft for 1'' would usually result in about 2° flatter dynamic lie angle (closer to 3° PING's flat setting), plus I would have to increase head weight with about 12g of rat glue I could position in the toe of the club to give it even more fade bias. These changes would theoretically made the woods more fade biased and allow me to play with higher lofts (14,25°-15° 3 wood and 18,25°-19° 5 wood) which would add more spin to the ball and more importantly mitigate dramatic curvatures on poor strikes. Any imput would be greatly appreciated.
  8. Great idea. You can add me: @galjotin
  9. I understand, I was just trying to warn you about BBTG measurement. I found this relevant because when I bought +0,5 inch pulls from (I think) Mizuno irons and dry fit them into Srixons, they were only 0,25 inch longer than standard. I thought the seller measured them wrong but when I dry fit them in Mizuno head, the total measurement of the club was +0,5 inch as advertised despite the same hosel insertion depth. Reason for that was because of BBTG of Srixon irons was smaller than that of the Mizuno. http://image.slidesharecdn.com/shafttrimminginstructionsv5-090910085457-phpapp02/95/basics-of-golf-club-shaft-trimming-11-728.jpg
  10. If I understood correctly your question you should be asking about BBTG measurement (bottom bore to ground measurement) to determine total length of the club (BBTG + shaft pull length equals total club length). BBTG info is near impossible to obtain from OEM and I have not really seen any info on the internet so the only way is measuring it yourself by removing one iron head. If you are interested about BBTG of Srixon irons I can measure my Srixon Z565 heads tomorrow.
  11. Lefty 7 iron in otherwise righty bag for those nasty shots by the tree or from under the bush.
  12. I took my driver with a dent on a toe side of the crown to my friend that fixes cars with hail damage to see if he could get rid of the dent. He used some sort of a suction cup and actually got rid of it. If the dent bothers you too much, tthis is worth a consideration... One warning though: Friend warned me that it is always tought repairing dents on the edges because suction cup doesn't always get a proper grip or some paint can chip off on the very edge.
  13. So I figured I would report about the progress of my project. Bad news is that SUB70 irons are not really an option since import taxes are way too high. Good news is I picked up new Taylormade M6 4 hybrid for 50 EUR and I am thinking of picking up new Taylormade M4 5-PW irons for a little less than 500 EUR. What are your opinions on the irons?
  14. I was so excited when cnosil mentioned that SUB70 has a distrubutor (or something like that) in Netherlands because that would/could mean I wouldn't have to pay import taxes and duties for importing clubs from USA. Unfortunately when I contacted the EU distributor and asked for a quote he said that 5-AW of 699 in satin and 56* satin wedge would be (including 30 EUR discount) 900 EUR (1.060 USD) + max 25 EUR shipping. That's heavy for DTC clubs. Later I contacted SUB70 directly to figure whether they ship internationally and what would the shipping costs be. First of I have to say that their customer service is unparalleled. They were really nice, responsive and unlike anyone I have ever dealt with before. Unfortunately I got a cold shower when I calculated the price. I calculated that the sum of the price of clubs, import taxes, customs duties, optional import authorization would be app. 780 EUR plus 87 EUR shipping. Cheaper than from EU distributor but still not that famous DTC pricing I was hoping for. In fact, that is closer to major OEM pricing and I am not surprised I have never seen any american DTC clubs in the bag of any of the golfers I have ever played with. That being said I will have to inquire whether the price of clubs stated on website and already includes VAT because I would certainly have to pay VAT again if I decide to import clubs. It is possible that SUB70 will have to deduct VAT price off their clubs. At least that is how things are here in Slovenia. If that is the case I might pull the trigger... Sigh... I love living in EU but when it comes to golf, its not easy... :/
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