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  1. That's a whole new lever of ''Hzrdus''. I bet the shaft is stiffer than breakthrough stability putter shaft...
  2. A year or so ago I built myself a hitting net using steel pipes (cheaper than PVC pipes where I come from) wrapped in foam pipe inslation. At first I designed the central panel the size of 2m wide and 2,5m high with attached right side panel of 1,5m wide and 2m high with adjustable angle to the main panel to catch the shanks I was battling with at the time. For the netting I used multiple layers of cheap anti hail net (to protect yineyards, gardens etc.), folded over the top ''rail''. After a month of driving the ball into the net the balls started to penetrate the net so for this year I bough myself tightly woven thick archery net from eBay and decided to slightly enlarge central panel (by 0,5m in width) and ditch the side panel since I managed to cure my shanks. When the wet weather passes I will assemle the whole thing again in my garden and take a few photos.
  3. I like half sets. What's your setup?
  4. Posts like this are the reason why I am constantly reading WITb posts. Hell of a post!
  5. I am more in the middle to low weight group and quite sensitive to weight: I like the feeling of a little heft in the club but too much weight causes the club to be stuck behind me. From that position it is hard for me to release the club and square the face (especially the driver). I get either push/push fades or pulls. I generally err on the side of less weight.
  6. Calvo90

    7 woods

    I am currently using just 3 wood lofted to 16.5 degrees so please take my advice with little reservation. From your description it sounds like you are the perfect type of golfer for fairway woods. Generally speaking fairway woods are better for sweepers/people with shallow angle of attack. If you deliver little dynamic loft and play a draw, you can only benefit from clubs with lower and more rearward CG - fairway woods and hybrids that are by design and size close to fairway wood (for example Titleist 818 H1 you currently play). Personally I am quite the opposite so I prefer utility irons and hybrids that are closer to an iron. For more info I suggest you watch the video TXG released called ''Why in the bag? Jose Angel Jimenez''. Jose has still quite decent swing speed but because he has very round and shallow swing, he is very good fairway wood player. I think fairway wood should be better for you because hybrids tend to be more upright and generally slightly more draw biased than fairway woods. Unless you choose bonded hosel fairwa woods I suggest you rather choose lower lofted fairway wood and loft it (hence opening face angle) up using hosel settings.
  7. If you create a permanent epoxy bond that can be loosened only by using heat, there should not be any problem with club conformity whatsoever. Check R&A's The Official Rules of Equipment, section 2: Conformance of clubs, article 2.1a, paragraph (iii): (iii) All Parts must be Fixed This clause means that no part of the golf club should be designed to move, nor should it be promoted as doing so. Once assembled, all parts of the club which are bonded must be bonded such that they require heat to loosen (see Section 1b below for clubs which are designed to be adjustable).
  8. You really don't have many options. If you want to make the clubs lower swing weight, you will either have to shorten them, lighten the heads (unlikely based on the head design and I would not recommend) or counterbalance them. What kind of grips are you using? Assuming you have standard size 50 gram grips, you can switch them for heavier and beefier grips. Something like 67g midsize MCC PLUS4 ALIGN (-3,5 swing weight points)or midsize white 65g Golf Pride Tour Wrap (-3 swing weight points). In standard size the heaviest grip I could find are standard 59g Lamkin Performance Plus with 3GEN Standard White (-2 swing weight points). Some people don't like this method because it is just a scale measurement that does not necessarily translate into feeling in the hands. I hope this helps.
  9. It sounds you went above and beyond to play golf, the game we all love. I can certainly respect that. I hope the new gear allows you to enjoy the game as long as possible.
  10. I own both spiked and spikeless shoes. For warm summer afternoons I prefer spikeless shoes since they are a bit more comfortable, and there is enough traction. But as soon as some moisture is on the grass (morning dew etc.) you can expect to slip. So for me spiked shoes are the general rule and spikeless shoes are the exception to the rule.
  11. You are correct. The masking tape thickness often does not equal the thickness of gripping double sided tape. Some time ago someone on WRX posted dimensions of various tapes. I found it again and posted link to it below. I hope it makes sense.
  12. I have used compressor but i prefer the wet method. With air compressor I found that the parts of the grip tend to move sideways (especially the butt section) and if you have align grips and OCD, it is a nightmare. With wet method there are no such problems and if you want to remove the grip without destroying the grip you can easily do it.
  13. Sir, here is my like to get you to full MGS membership. Congrats. Great looking bag. I love seeing older bags that don't have the newest and greatest clubs in it [please don't look in my signature]. I don't know why but seeing a player that is comfortable with older clubs on the first tee is way more intimidationg to me than seeing a good player with a brand new bag. As to your qeustion: If it is not broke, don't fix it but if there is something wrong with certain part of your bag, I would take a look at it. In my experience problem does not always lie in the player, sometimes it lies in the gear.
  14. The legend says that for every WITB post without some pictures, a little kitten dies. Just sayin'.
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