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About GPS111

  • Birthday 12/16/1952

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    Arlington, Wa
  • Interests
    Golf, photography
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  1. Began playing 50+ years ago when a sets were all the same and you were taught to "swing in a barrel". Years of playing morphed into evolving club loyalties and the realization that different shots need me to do different things and it's best to use the tool best suited no matter the brand. Currently: Driver and 3W Taylor Made M1, 5-7W Cobra F8, no hybrids, Dynacraft irons, Cleveland wedges, and an old Ping A-Blade putter but with a BTG shaft and super stroke pistol grip. I subscribed to the Nicklaus words of as you age replace longer irons with shorter woods. Tried hybrids but didn't work for me. Have always used custom irons. I subscribed to the philosophy of Sub 70 a long time ago but with Tom Wishon. Have not found an iron to knock these out if the bag yet but some of the new polymer filled heads might make that happen. And as long as the old Ping can keep me at 25-26 putts per round no need to change unless I decide to turn golf into a paycheck and at 68 yrs old that is highly doubtful!
  2. I have an old Acushnet Out 'n In sand wedge I bought in 1969. In and out if the bag over the years. Just can't get rid of it.
  3. GPS111

    3rd broken shaft

    Jaskanski makes sense. Mechanics vs material strengths are huge. So is installation. Back in the day before removable shafts and everything was made for steel, graphite shafts could be installed but to prevent what you described happening we had to " cone the hosel" or prep the head for the shaft. That meant add a chamfer to the inside hosel edge to soften it where it meets the shaft where a stress would occur and cause fiber tears and breaks. Might not be as big a factor with hosel adapters now but worth a look. That tip for the Ping driver might have a hard edge for that shaft. Same tip performs different with a different shaft so coning for this shaft might prevent what you are seeing and allow you to use it.
  4. I go with performance as the determinant of confidence. Expectation is only what drives the impulse buy. How many time have you seen a putter advertised to solve all problems then spent $300 (expectation) only to find you can't hit anything (performance) no matter what you do? Or picked up a bargain for $10 (with no expectation) and putt lights out with it (performance). I like blade putters but am I confident in ALL blades? No way. But I'm also not going to buy a dozen different ones until I find the one that works. Maybe I did that in the past trying the ones on the floor in the golf store then finding they don't work on the green. Try, try again turned into buy, buy again and a garage full of putters. Now with fittings available a lot of this can be narrowed down before I spend anything, especially if it's going to be $400. I'd go the fitting route. Expectation is higher and if it performs then expectation and performance = confidence. If not, I can go back to the fitter and fix it.
  5. Cobra made a 12 deg Long Tom 2 wood in 2012-ish time frame. 260cc head at 45" long. Worked well off a tee or off the deck. I had one and am shooting myself for not keeping it but you know how clubs go. Something new? Something goes. I replaced with a TM 3W HL. Good club but not the same. There are some Cobra Long Tom drivers and 2W on eBay periodically.
  6. Pretty paintbrush comment. I'm a Master Clubmaker who has also done repairs and custom builds for pros on several tours including the PGA on site for events. Amatures can't be treated as second class citizens by the likes of your comments. To assume that can't putt as well due to their lack of skill is not justification for not giving them the best chance. Aligning the grip square to line of putt gives an amaturer the best chance of success. To assume otherwise is to presume you are better than their worth. If you are a true club repair guy or Clubmaker says they deserve your best, not the assumption they can't have the best.
  7. Getting the grip on is not too far different than irons or woods. Just like them be sure your butt diameter matches the grip diameter. You may need to add tape or it will not be solid. If the butt is larger than the grip diameter you'll influence the overall diameter once it is on. Second and maybe more important, before the grip dries give an eyeball look down the shaft. If you have an alignment mark on the putter head you can check and see the flat of the grip is parallel to that or not. Off a little bit and the head will not be square to your grip. I have a 4' steel rule I can attach to the grip the extends to the head and give me a more finite look at grip being square to the club face. A couple degrees off is a 1" miss on a 10' putt.
  8. Currently use Garman S40 watch. Never used an optical range finder. Comparing accuracy might be enlightening.
  9. GPS111


    Is this the old Warrior Golf Company reincarnated? Sounds like them. They always pulled the sell at all costs including discounts when you tried to cancel. They never wanted to give up a sale. Wanted you to give you something for free to test then sell you another club to let you keep it. And no matter how it turned out they spam you to death and never stop calling to try and sell you more.
  10. Rare is the golfer who can do it all with a set of clubs from one manufacturer. Everyone plays different clubs different ways and there will be some in a set that perform differently than the rest or as expected when played the same way. I use TM M1 driver and 3W and Cobra 5-6 and Cobra 7-8 for the other woods and got rid of long irons. TM P790 7-PW and Cleveland RTX4 SW and GW. NOTE: not 14 clubs but they gap right for me and keep me shooting 80 at age 68. Took years to get out of the mentality of "matched" from one clubmaker and get the set of tools that work best for me no matter who makes them.
  11. I am/was a Dynacraft Class A clubmaker and a member of the old Dynacraft Professional Clubmakers Society. I ran a small clubmaking and repair business in the late 80's and early 90's and bought from Golfworks, Golfsmith, and Dynacraft. Each had common components like shafts, grips, and clubmaking supplies but Golfworks had the best rework/refinishing stuff. When it came to heads Golfworks was the best. Dynacraft was next with Golfsmith last. The original Golfworks KE4 iron heads out around 1990 were I think the first adjustable weight heads you coulg get and the ones I first shot scores in the mid 70's with. Dynacraft were clone heads but had a following. Golfsmith were, er, well Golfsmith and we'll leave it at that. Fast forward to now and Dynacraft is Hireko complete with Jeff Summit, a go to guru on club building and perfotmance that worked Dynacraft with Tom Wishon. I built a set of Pinhawk single length and gave them a good run for a year using two different sets of shafts. That experiment ended due to never being able to gap the clubs well, especially the short irons and wedges. Four yard increments makes it hard to play a course. Might as well play with a half set. I switched to Dynacraft Prophet cavity backs and have not looked back. Play like poor mans Taylor Made P790. Strong lofts with forgiving mishits and incredible feel. Lots of spin when needed but now that is as much the ball as the club. Note I'm 68 and using A flex but with the right shaft for your game they will play to any flex. Maybe the new Golfworks KE4 can play like the originals but for cost these keep me in the 80 range on the scorecard.
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