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About Larryw

  • Birthday 11/30/1945

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    Georgetown, TX
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  1. Not certain about that. My understanding is that when you click the 1 button to record the putt - standing over the ball - that SS marks the GPS position and then when you click the pin location - when standing over the hole - SS also marks that GPS position and will then compute all the putt distances from the GPS locations. So it should be accurate - at least as accurate as the GPS system allows. So definitely should check in editing that the distances look OK to you. Of course that requires a very good memory or jotting down distances to refresh your memory. That accuracy is not critical to me - so I just try to remember exceptional putts and check them during edit. As luck would have it - there are usually not a lot of them. Requiring close accuracy can get quite time consuming - unless you just trust SS and GPS. I am hoping that errors if they occur, will even out over the season since I play a lot of rounds.
  2. No, tag not needed for manual putting mode.
  3. Yes, I keep a list on paper of which shaft is which color in Shot Scope. I put that color in my bag for the day. Shot Scope keeps the stats by color so that part works fine and keeps the stats separate. I still think it would be nice to be able to "name" my clubs, something like "floppy" for a wedge, or "only trouble" for my 1 iron. (which I use mostly as a punch out for a wayward shot). Would make my stat sheet look so much nicer than "LW" in blue and "X2" in black.
  4. Don't need another D tag, just create a second driver - exactly like the first driver - put in the D tag and you will get a different color. Problem is that without a user defined field to distinguish the clubs, you have to keep a list somewhere so you know which color is which shaft. After two or three shafts that becomes a nightmare. The request for a user defined "name" for the club has been made several times - but so far has fallen on deaf ears. My only pet-peeve for Shot Scope. Love the watch.
  5. Also, if I remember correctly, shots within 50 yds. of the green will not used in distance measurements.
  6. Well it is POSSIBLE that the #3 ball is/was a left dot ProV1 - it has 352 dimples - which is what the left dot has on the USGA approved ball list. However, so does the AVX. It makes little sense that the blind ball test would be on a ball that is set for release to the public immediately. Makes more sense to me that it might be a POTENTIAL next release ball, maybe in a year or two after being tweaked during the meantime. Also still think it looks like the Tour Speed - maybe with a thin ProV1 cover - just for trial? BTW, the #4 ball has 388 dimples - and the only Titleist ball I could find with that count is a ProV1 so it could be the same next version out to be trialed and tweaked - if every released into the wild - and it did look very much like a ProV1 inside. This is all just speculation and we will probably never find out the details of the two balls in our trial. Still looking for that Tsi1 driver that should be coming as the token gift to all us for the superior effort we have displayed.
  7. Well I had a very nice surprise waiting for me today. Having won the 3rd place prize - and already being a Pro member at TheGrint, they went above my expectations in providing a "care" package. Thanks to TheGrint and to MGS. Waiting for the next one - but may miss it due to having RT Hip Replaced on Monday. Plan to be back before the fall arrives for the Holiday contests.
  8. Yeah, and it is not the camera angle. The inner core is definitely off center and the cover is thick.
  9. OK Survey completed. After cutting the balls I have not changed my views. Both balls are very good. I prefer #3 which had better launch attributes for me. I still feel that #4 stops a little better on the green but launches higher and is much more affected by wind than #3. My takes on the ball pictures: #3 closely resembles a Tour Speed but with a thinner cover. #4 closely resembles a Prov1. I included my Maxfli Tour for comparison. Looks much like a Prov1 to me.
  10. In what manner of communications did you report back to Titlist? Did you receive contact information with the balls or separately?
  11. Everyone has just about covered the minimum impact and the phone is not required on the course. But, I use the "manual" putting setting. This only requires pushing one button as you stand over the ball - ready for your putt - on each putt you hit. (hopefully only 1 or 2 per hole ). Then as you get your ball out of the hole, you push one button to record the pin location. I have found that it records the putt distances more accurately for me using the manual method. Perhaps I am settled longer over the ball in my pre-putt routine - pressing the button as one of the last things I do before hitting each putt. I could never figure out how it knew the putt locations if I just pushed "2" putts. Since I tend to make practice putts (without a ball) while standing around waiting for other players to putt - I just didn't know how it determines practice putt from real putt. I don't even have the tag in my putter. Manual works much better for me.
  12. In some cases, yes. But there are a limited number of tags. You can change out clubs in the bag easily - and each club gets a different color. After 4 or 5 GW clubs, it is very difficult in editing and viewing stats to remember which GW color is the "Ping 52" and which is the "Mizuno 52" if that makes sense. Can always go the bag section and see but that is not always convenient. And where you create a 2nd "Ping 425" driver because you swapped the shaft out and want the stats tracked separately. Now you have two "Ping 425" drivers in your club area and unless you can remember which color is which shaft you can't tell the difference. After 5 or 6 shafts it becomes impossible for an old guy like me. Maybe trying to use the system to track performance stats for that many different shafts is beyond what the system is designed to do - but to me would not be difficult to extend. Besides I think it would be cute to see my favorite wedge named "floppy" displayed on the performance page instead of just a Blue color "LW"
  13. Started with the V2 a couple of years ago and now the V3. As stated above, only way to reset database is to delete ALL the rounds one by one which can be a daunting task if you have a lot of rounds. If you move the tags to a different club (same brand or different doesn't matter) it will "assign" a different color to the new club. Tracking will be by "color" so stats will not be mixed. (My understanding) That being said, I did contact support a couple of years ago to "delete" my database so I could start new. After several emails to ensure I understood the process was a total wipe and not reversible, they did do the deletion for me. But they strongly recommended against the process. My issue was that I had created several drivers because I was trying different shafts and wanted different stats. After a few it becomes very confusing which color is which shaft (since the club selection in the dropdown boxes is the same on each club). I have suggested that they create a user supplied "text" field to allow naming the club and show the name on the stats pages. I don't know if that is in the plans but I hope so. After 8 or 10 shafts I saw that I should have created a separate spreadsheet to identify shaft to color arrangement. Something that seems a waste for such a system. I can remember my little "names" but not which color they might be. I have the same issue now with wedges, since I change them out quite often, I just can't remember which wedge is the blue one and which is the red one. So I have basically stopped using the track function until I can assign my own name to the club. Still love the system and when I do use it I have no issues in the accuracy or performance.
  14. Well, after playing a couple of rounds (where I played a one-man shamble) I am going to wrap up my thoughts on the two balls since any further analysis will probably be just me talking myself into things that might not hold up over time. I have changed my mind on which of the two balls I would most prefer. The #3 wins out slightly over the #4. They are so close in performance for me and my swing speed that either would work fine. I feel that #3 is more firm, launches lower and has less spin. Ball #4 really showed a much higher launch during the rounds especially in today's 14 mph wind. I guess that is due to more spin (could be core or dimple design) but not an expert on all that stuff so leave it for everyone to decipher. Distances are about the same off driver and irons with #3 possibly a couple of yards longer, and #4 always stops quicker for me on all distance shots into the green. The extra roll out on #3 is very small and is still hop/stop enough for me. In fact I actually had one #3 shot that sucked back 7'. Albeit on a 5 degree slope directly behind the pin - but hey, if I stood there and dropped a ball from the waist it only rolled about 4' toward the pin so I felt good about that. After two rounds the durability looks fine to me. I will continue playing the balls as long as they let me find them and if major wear shows up will post that info. Have really enjoyed doing the testing and looking forward to seeing everyone else's analysis.
  15. Why limit to the same price range? Throw in some more expensive and/or maybe some less expensive ball to see if more or less money compares? Not questioning - just curious.
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