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Everything posted by Saluki91

  1. Thanks to both of you! I have some Club Paste Shield on the bench, and will give it a try. Cheers!
  2. If I heat the hosel of an MG wedge with a heat gun, should I be concerned about damaging the red plug? Thanks!
  3. Thanks. I ended up trimming the extra 1/2" off, and will play them at standard length... at least until my back reminds me that +1/2" is a better idea. Then I'll have a "reason" for reshafting. ...but I don't have a problem I can stop any time I want. ; - )
  4. Thanks... will note that for future impulse buys. ; - ) My OCD prevailed, and I spent the extra $40 on a new-in-plastic head (not a fitting cart head).
  5. I recently took possession of a set of Mizuno JPX825 Pro's in very good condition. I love the way they look, sound at impact, and perform. They keep up with my JPX919 Pros (although a bit less forgiving when I'm less than perfect). They were my father's clubs, so there is that whole side of it as well. I want to use them as a travel/back-up set. Here is where I need some guidance (or perhaps an intervention): He played them 3* flat and 1/2" short on Project X Graphite 4.5. I need them 1* flat and +1/2", so changes needed to be made. My first thought was to reshaft. I found a set of new old-stock Project X Graphite in 5.5 (same vintage as Mizuno's stock offering at the time), and built them up to my specs. What I came up with felt like Thor's Hammer. 6i SW is D6, with a static weight of 405g. I can back-weight, and get to D3 with no trouble, but the static weight is 420g. It feels like a war club. In comparison, my Fli-Hi Forged 5i is also +1/2", and built on a similar Project X Graphite in 6.0 (3i shaft soft stepped twice - it was the only way to get a similar shaft without spending way more than I was willing to spend). It comes in at D3, and static weight is 393g. So... what are my options? Play them as is, and embrace D6? Back-weight, and embrace Thor's Hammer? Reshaft with something other than the Project X? Punt? I appreciate your input - Thanks!
  6. The short answer to your question is "Yes". However, I used lead foil tape under the grips instead of purpose-built weights which are inserted into the butt of the shaft. It was an interesting experiment, and I have recently revisited it with a back-up set of irons. In both cases, I wanted to bring swing weight down. Adding weight to the butt will fool the SW scale, but total weight definitely increases. That can be good or bad. The first time I tried this, adding to the total weight of the club wasn't desirable at that stage in my development as a golfer. Naturally, this will vary with the individual, but I found the added weight slowed me down, and the change in feel promoted a throw move from the top. A throw-induced two-way miss made it real easy take that tape off! The jury is still out for my second experiment. I wanted to reduce SW, and my swing mechanics are now such that controlling the added weight isn't as big of a deal. However, the Coronapocalypse isn't helping. I need some range time, and some actual golf-under-fire, before I can make an informed decision. See here:
  7. Thanks! I have one set of Perf Warps left, and I'll try them with air when my current grips wear out. Stay healthy and safe!
  8. Please file this under "I read it on the internet, so it must be true"... Years ago, I read a post by a very reputable club builder (may have been Dana Upshaw, but I can't swear to that...) on a now defunct forum (GEA) that warned against blowing Grip Master wraps on and off with compressed air. The reasoning (as I recall) was that the wrap constricted the underlisting to the point that air would damage the rubber, leather, or both. Given that information, I have always used tape and solvent when installing my leather wraps. I have removed Grip Masters with a Golfsmith blade-style remover, and I don't enjoy it. It is very easy to stretch the wrap loose, and I worry about excessive solvent taking the tack out of the leather. Do you use a blade to remove yours, or have you been successful with compressed air? Thanks!
  9. I have an old Fli Hi Forged fitting cart head with a screw in the back of the hosel. Is there an ROG issue with using this head if I use epoxy to affix it to a shaft and remove the screw? Thanks!
  10. New-In-Plastic Mizuno GT180 3W for $75 from Maple Hill... Currently in my travel bag, but it may sneak into the starting lineup!
  11. I just put a Salty cork grip on my gamer... LOVE the shape and feel... Round grip with a flat top. The mid size fits my hands perfectly, and promotes the ideal amount of tension for my stroke. Putting it on the club is a little more invovled than a wrap of tape and squirt of solvent, but it is well worth the effort. https://saltygrips.com/
  12. Absolute Favorite - Grip Master Perf Wrap... A big $ commitment on the front end, but they last forever, and get better with age. Unfortunately, I have a "small problem" with equipment, and buy/trade/sell far too often to justify the investment in leather. Favorite grips without taking out a second mortgage - Lamkin UTX... The perfect combination of tacky and traction. Favorite from "Back in the day" - Lamkin Crossline Classic Cord (I must have been the only person that liked them)
  13. I have stocked up on Z Stars, as they can be had for a steal at certain times in the season... $24.00 per dozen or less. Previous season balls are even easier to find at bargain basement prices. Not so much with their competitors...
  14. Saluki91

    Balata ball

    They would lose a significant amount... those rubber windings are lonnnnnnnnnnnng past their use-by date. I still have a few that are fun to putt with, but that is about it.
  15. Illinois courses remain closed for the foreseeable future, but our neighbors in Indiana can play with the following caveats: Walk, or one person and bag per cart 15 min intervals between tee times Hands free where possible... No rakes; Pins remain in; Don't putt out (pool noodles in cups, raised cups, etc.); No ball washers, No divot mix, etc. On-Course restrooms/Half-way houses are closed No shaking hands (Duh!) I'm fortunate enough to live near the IL/IN border, so playing in Hoosierstan is relatively easy. The course I frequent has a great system... All tee times are made on-line, and paid in advance. A staff member meets you at the bag drop with a cart that has been sanitized (and they do a great job). You load your own bag after checking in, and it is off to the starter. At the round's conclusion, an veritable army of staff (HS aged kids) descends on your cart and cleans it before returning it to the rotation. The restaurant remains open, but is carry-out only. I have been able to play three rounds there since the Coronapocalypse began, and the tee sheet was full each time. In addition, there has been a 45-60 min. wait for food. I hate the circumstances we all find ourselves in, but I'm glad they can stay open, and not lose their proverbial shirt while doing so. I hope Illinois courses can follow suit soon!
  16. This is the current iteration: https://proschoicegolfshafts.com/ys-nanoreloaded-wood-shaft/ I have one in my 3W, and it is lovely! Think Tour AD IZ without the price tag.
  17. Didn't see this as an option, but body change prompted my latest fitting... weight loss, disc injury, and just plain getting older. I couldn't bring as much to the party anymore, and needed as much help as I could afford.
  18. If you keep your clubs for an extended period of time, and don't mind the up-front cost, leather is the way to go... super tacky, actually gets better with age, and lasts forever. My favorites: http://dev.thegripmaster.com/product/classic-swinger/ If you change clubs like others change socks, then stick to rubber. Here are some tacky grips that also offer a degree of softness: https://store.golfpride.com/store/grips/prod611055/tour-velvet-super-tack https://store.golfpride.com/store/grips/prod2291605/tour-wrap-microsuede
  19. My Mitchell Steelclub is a factory refurb... got it directly from Mitchell. You may have to call to inquire, as I don't think they advertise their factory refurb units. It would be worth the effort... saved me a ton! Skip the stand, and just bolt it to your bench. However, DO NOT skip the Mitchell bending bar! If you dip your toe into the loft/lie pool, you will want a gauge to measure both, as the actual bending apparatus is not entirely accurate in its measurements. This is more than adequate: https://www.golfworks.com/value-line-golf-club-measuring-gauge/p/hgcg/ Another item not on your list is a club ruler. There are several DIY versions that will get the job done, but this is probably the "industry standard": https://www.mitchellgolf.com/shop/repair-tools/clublength-measuring-tools/clublength-ruler-measuring-tool/ I have found a cheap digital kitchen scale to be one of the most useful tools on my bench. Among 1,000 other uses, it makes mixing 50-50 epoxy in small quantities is a breeze. Have fun!
  20. I need to replace the shaft in my 19* 816H2. I'd like to put a 1/2" extension in a shaft from a 21* 816H2 and use that... but a voice in the back of my head is saying "Don't be a cheap bastage! Buy a shaft that is cut for a 19* head!" Would the tipping of the extended shaft from the 21* head create spin/ball flight issues in a 19* head? Thanks!
  21. Thanks for putting this together... looks like fun! Tie Breaker: Thorbjorn Olsen Winning Score = -13
  22. 1. Joseph - Illinois 2. 6.9 - ? (high 90's) 3. M4/Tour AD IZ (S) 4. Epic Flash Sub Zero - Please and thank you!
  23. I'm a refugee from the now defunct GEA... happy to be participating in a group with much more discussion dedicated to equipment. Fingers crossed! 1. Joseph - Illinois 2. 6.9 - No idea (fitted into a GD Tour AD IZ 5 in stiff flex) 3. TM M4 4. G410 Plus (please, and than you!)
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