Scott M

I too have a set of the original Sub70 699s and they feel softer than my Ping i525s. I feel I'm more accurate with my i525s but with an in-house fitting at Sub70, I'm sure I can get similar performance out of the 699s. The value with sub70 is not only the price but the customizations you can do. They have every club shape/model you could need and tons of shaft and grip options, not to mention you can customize length, loft, and lie. Sub70 also keeps popping up on MyGolfSpy's Most Wanted lists. Customer service is top-notch. Sub70 is tough to ignore.

I too have a set of the original Sub70 699s and they feel softer than my Ping i525s. I feel I'm more accurate with my i525s but with an in-house fitting at Sub70, I'm sure I can get similar performance out of the 699s. The value with sub70 is not only the price but the customizations you can do. They have every club shape/model you could need and tons of shaft and grip options, not to mention you can customize length, loft, and lie. Sub70 also keeps popping up on MyGolfSpy's Most Wanted lists. Customer service is top-notch. Sub70 is tough to ignore.

Fitting is probably the smartest thing to do first. This will tell you a lot about what type of putters fit you (blade, mallet) and what neck type (slant, double-bend, etc.), not to mention length, lie, etc. I can not putt worth a damn with a toe-hang, blade style putter. However, you put a mallet style head with a double-bend neck and that is a different ball game based on my stroke type (straight back/through). Then just test those style of putters and find one that works for you, then find yourself the best deal. THEN...you will truly know what your "real" price range is 🙂

There are so many good putters in the $200 - $300 range. Any more than that would be a case of diminishing returns.

Hard to say what I would spend. Off the cuff, I wouldn't pay more than $150-200. However, if I found something that was head and shoulders above the rest and could easily help me shave a few strokes per round then maybe $300 max. Usually, I'll test out some putters, maybe find a cost effective fitting, then find something on sale, or on eBay, that matches my setup. There are some steals out there if you don't mind using something that is a 2-3 years old. I have a Taylormade Spyder, that I bought "new", for $190. Granted the model was a couple years old but it was an improvement to the Odyssey that I had. 

Hard to say what I would spend. Off the cuff, I wouldn't pay more than $150-200. However, if I found something that was head and shoulders above the rest and could easily help me shave a few strokes per round then maybe $300 max. Usually, I'll test out some putters, maybe find a cost effective fitting, then find something on sale, or on eBay, that matches my setup. There are some steals out there if you don't mind using something that is a 2-3 years old. I have a Taylormade Spyder, that I bought "new", for $190. Granted the model was a couple years old but it was an improvement to the Odyssey that I had. 

I'm in agreement with most on here...when it comes to choosing your wedges/lofts it depends on a few factors - gapping, use case, comfort level, weight, grind etc. I used to game 52, 56, 60, then switched to 50,54,60 and now I'm using 50, 54, 58. However in every case mentioned, I usually had about a 45 degree PW. My #1 reason for the lofts chosen is for gapping. Next, is forgiveness (ease of use, consistent on mishits). The last reason was weight. I was deciding between CBX and Glide 3.0s and both were great but I just felt I had more control and was more consistent with the Glide 3.0 because they felt better in my hand. I think the weight was very close to being the same but I just felt I could control the Glides better. I could go either way between the 58 and 60 wedges. I lean 58 for gapping but I lean 60 for more stopping power. 

I'm in agreement with most on here...when it comes to choosing your wedges/lofts it depends on a few factors - gapping, use case, comfort level, weight, grind etc. I used to game 52, 56, 60, then switched to 50,54,60 and now I'm using 50, 54, 58. However in every case mentioned, I usually had about a 45 degree PW. My #1 reason for the lofts chosen is for gapping. Next, is forgiveness (ease of use, consistent on mishits). The last reason was weight. I was deciding between CBX and Glide 3.0s and both were great but I just felt I had more control and was more consistent with the Glide 3.0 because they felt better in my hand. I think the weight was very close to being the same but I just felt I could control the Glides better. I could go either way between the 58 and 60 wedges. I lean 58 for gapping but I lean 60 for more stopping power. 

I'm in agreement with most on here...when it comes to choosing your wedges/lofts it depends on a few factors - gapping, use case, comfort level, weight, grind etc. I used to game 52, 56, 60, then switched to 50,54,60 and now I'm using 50, 54, 58. However in every case mentioned, I usually had about a 45 degree PW. My #1 reason for the lofts chosen is for gapping. Next, is forgiveness (ease of use, consistent on mishits). The last reason was weight. I was deciding between CBX and Glide 3.0s and both were great but I just felt I had more control and was more consistent with the Glide 3.0 because they felt better in my hand. I think the weight was very close to being the same but I just felt I could control the Glides better. I could go either way between the 58 and 60 wedges. I lean 58 for gapping but I lean 60 for more stopping power. 

I'm in agreement with most on here...when it comes to choosing your wedges/lofts it depends on a few factors - gapping, use case, comfort level, weight, grind etc. I used to game 52, 56, 60, then switched to 50,54,60 and now I'm using 50, 54, 58. However in every case mentioned, I usually had about a 45 degree PW. My #1 reason for the lofts chosen is for gapping. Next, is forgiveness (ease of use, consistent on mishits). The last reason was weight. I was deciding between CBX and Glide 3.0s and both were great but I just felt I had more control and was more consistent with the Glide 3.0 because they felt better in my hand. I think the weight was very close to being the same but I just felt I could control the Glides better. I could go either way between the 58 and 60 wedges. I lean 58 for gapping but I lean 60 for more stopping power. 

Have to agree with several of the previous posters...with the cost of clubs these days, I want to do what I can to make them last. Secondly, I like to refresh clubs when it is necessary and the better my current set looks, the better the resale value which offsets the cost of the next set. Finally, I too clean my club faces after every shot. Not only to preserve the clubface but also because a clean clubface means consistent performance. My final comment (guaranteed to get some reaction 🙂 ), why do people who don't like headcovers care so much about golfers who do?

Have to agree with several of the previous posters...with the cost of clubs these days, I want to do what I can to make them last. Secondly, I like to refresh clubs when it is necessary and the better my current set looks, the better the resale value which offsets the cost of the next set. Finally, I too clean my club faces after every shot. Not only to preserve the clubface but also because a clean clubface means consistent performance. My final comment (guaranteed to get some reaction 🙂 ), why do people who don't like headcovers care so much about golfers who do?

Have to agree with several of the previous posters...with the cost of clubs these days, I want to do what I can to make them last. Secondly, I like to refresh clubs when it is necessary and the better my current set looks, the better the resale value which offsets the cost of the next set. Finally, I too clean my club faces after every shot. Not only to preserve the clubface but also because a clean clubface means consistent performance. My final comment (guaranteed to get some reaction 🙂 ), why do people who don't like headcovers care so much about golfers who do?

Have to agree with several of the previous posters...with the cost of clubs these days, I want to do what I can to make them last. Secondly, I like to refresh clubs when it is necessary and the better my current set looks, the better the resale value which offsets the cost of the next set. Finally, I too clean my club faces after every shot. Not only to preserve the clubface but also because a clean clubface means consistent performance. My final comment (guaranteed to get some reaction 🙂 ), why do people who don't like headcovers care so much about golfers who do?