Liberty Ball Markers Posted December 24, 2016 Share Posted December 24, 2016 This was a pleasant surprise... I just got this Cameron Circa 62 #1 for super cheap. By the pics, it didn't look beaten up, but I thought I would need to strip it bare and torch it. Once it arrived, it was in better condition than I thought - a little steel wool, polish, and black paint fill later, I think I'll play this one as is for awhile. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy http://www.instagram.com/libertyballmarkers/ http://www.birdie-bomb.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liberty Ball Markers Posted December 24, 2016 Share Posted December 24, 2016 I am debating on whether to use this knuckle on it. I think it may look great. IMG_1677.JPG The one on the left... I made the one on the right side, just working on these little welds Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy I saw this on eBay - it looks good with the plumber neck! Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy http://www.instagram.com/libertyballmarkers/ http://www.birdie-bomb.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xstiffshafts Posted December 24, 2016 Author Share Posted December 24, 2016 This was a pleasant surprise... I just got this Cameron Circa 62 #1 for super cheap. By the pics, it didn't look beaten up, but I thought I would need to strip it bare and torch it. IMG_8247.JPGIMG_8248.JPG Once it arrived, it was in better condition than I thought - a little steel wool, polish, and black paint fill later, I think I'll play this one as is for awhile. IMG_8244.JPGIMG_8245.JPGIMG_8246.JPG Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy Excellent! That's awesome! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Driver: Burner Superfast TP 9* Fuji TS Evolution II Speeder; X-Flex 3 Wood: G Series 15* Tour 75g; S-Flex Irons: 2016 APEX MB 3-PW; KBS Tour; S-Flex; 1/2" Long, 1* upright Wedges: 50* 54* 58* SM5, K Grind Putter: Bettinardi SS9 DASS Prototype/Hexperimental Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xstiffshafts Posted December 24, 2016 Author Share Posted December 24, 2016 I saw this on eBay - it looks good with the plumber neck! Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy Yeah, I bought a few of them on eBay. That seller is top notch. I've been buying putter shafts, little things like that plumber neck m, etc.. from him all year. One of my favorite dudes in the parts market. This conversion is a little weird... I'm sure it's because I'm using it with a .355 tip instead of on a .270 mallet. It wants to set up closed due to the angle of the post. Had to shave about a quarter inch off that hosel post on the futura to get it right. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Driver: Burner Superfast TP 9* Fuji TS Evolution II Speeder; X-Flex 3 Wood: G Series 15* Tour 75g; S-Flex Irons: 2016 APEX MB 3-PW; KBS Tour; S-Flex; 1/2" Long, 1* upright Wedges: 50* 54* 58* SM5, K Grind Putter: Bettinardi SS9 DASS Prototype/Hexperimental Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thatginger96 Posted December 25, 2016 Share Posted December 25, 2016 Well both the wedge and the putter are finally done and painted. The wedge turned out really well and the putter left a bit to be desired. Too many dings and nicks to look very good. I took a side by side comparison of what the wedge looked like before and after I was done with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xstiffshafts Posted December 25, 2016 Author Share Posted December 25, 2016 Wedge looks nice! I also think the anser looks good... you could get some of those dings out by sanding/filing it!0 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Driver: Burner Superfast TP 9* Fuji TS Evolution II Speeder; X-Flex 3 Wood: G Series 15* Tour 75g; S-Flex Irons: 2016 APEX MB 3-PW; KBS Tour; S-Flex; 1/2" Long, 1* upright Wedges: 50* 54* 58* SM5, K Grind Putter: Bettinardi SS9 DASS Prototype/Hexperimental Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liberty Ball Markers Posted December 25, 2016 Share Posted December 25, 2016 Wedge looks nice! I also think the anser looks good... you could get some of those dings out by sanding/filing it!0 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I agree - on both counts! Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy http://www.instagram.com/libertyballmarkers/ http://www.birdie-bomb.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thatginger96 Posted December 26, 2016 Share Posted December 26, 2016 I think that is a bit beyond my skill set at this time but it's something nice want to try in the future. I'm happy with the color I got out of the putter. I torched just a bit to get it extra golden which helps hide some of the nicks. The wedge turned out better than I could have hoped it would. Sent from my Nexus 5X using MyGolfSpy mobile app Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ballenbrandon Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 So I started my work on this guy today. It's my first time doing this. Any suggestions on how to deal with the milling on the face? It has a bunch of dings and is like to get rid of them. All of them are outside the red area in the middle. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xstiffshafts Posted December 28, 2016 Author Share Posted December 28, 2016 You should be able to hand sand many of the dings out - don't be discouraged if you sand the s*** out of it with 120 and it doesn't look like a night/day diff. It'll continue to look better and better as you progress to the higher grits and polish. Of course there are some doozies in every project putter that sanding just won't help. I like to hit these with a hand file before I even start sanding. You can get a solid 4-Way Bastard Mill file with a comfortable handle for like What are your plans for this putter? Torch/black oxide/restore to original? Either way we need to call attn to the insert. Can you pop it out? There are plenty of videos on YouTube that show guys popping odyssey inserts. If it's Cameron style with back screws, that makes it even easier. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Driver: Burner Superfast TP 9* Fuji TS Evolution II Speeder; X-Flex 3 Wood: G Series 15* Tour 75g; S-Flex Irons: 2016 APEX MB 3-PW; KBS Tour; S-Flex; 1/2" Long, 1* upright Wedges: 50* 54* 58* SM5, K Grind Putter: Bettinardi SS9 DASS Prototype/Hexperimental Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xstiffshafts Posted December 28, 2016 Author Share Posted December 28, 2016 Btw, other than a light sanding, I'd generally leave the face alone. You'll sand the face milling off trying to get it uniform. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Driver: Burner Superfast TP 9* Fuji TS Evolution II Speeder; X-Flex 3 Wood: G Series 15* Tour 75g; S-Flex Irons: 2016 APEX MB 3-PW; KBS Tour; S-Flex; 1/2" Long, 1* upright Wedges: 50* 54* 58* SM5, K Grind Putter: Bettinardi SS9 DASS Prototype/Hexperimental Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ballenbrandon Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 It's milled into the face so it doesn't come out. It's just a different color but the same metal. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ballenbrandon Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 Also I plan on going darker with the color. Still deciding on how dark and which route to go. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xstiffshafts Posted December 28, 2016 Author Share Posted December 28, 2016 I see an "elastomer" ring around it though - it'd come out. And I don't know how it could be that color and be the same metal-I'm assuming the body is some flavor of steel, and I'd bet the insert is anodized aluminum. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Driver: Burner Superfast TP 9* Fuji TS Evolution II Speeder; X-Flex 3 Wood: G Series 15* Tour 75g; S-Flex Irons: 2016 APEX MB 3-PW; KBS Tour; S-Flex; 1/2" Long, 1* upright Wedges: 50* 54* 58* SM5, K Grind Putter: Bettinardi SS9 DASS Prototype/Hexperimental Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ballenbrandon Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 Ok so hearing it up should be enough to get it out? There's also an insert in the back with the TM logo on it. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cnosil Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 It's milled into the face so it doesn't come out. It's just a different color but the same metal. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy doubt that it is mulled into the face. Pretty sure that it is an insert that will need to be removed. I did a quick google search and most people agree that it is an insert. If you totally screw up the insert, there are places you can get a new one: https://www.spryevo.com/shop/insert-store/taylormade/ It is probably aluminum; Boiling seems to be the preferred way to remove inserts that might be damaged by torch heat. Driver: G400 Max 9* w/ KBS Tour Driven Fairway: Paradym AI Smoke Max HL 16.5* w/MCA TENSEI AV Series Blue Hybrids: 915H 21* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype 915H 24* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype Irons: TR20V 6-11 w/Vizard TR20-85 Graphite Wedge: 54/12D, 60/8M w/Accra iWedge 90 Graphite Putter: Render w/VA Composites Baddazz Backup Putters: Sacks Parente MC 3 Stripe, Milled Collection RSX 2 Member: MGS Hitsquad since 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ballenbrandon Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 @cnosil do you have any advice on removing it? Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ballenbrandon Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 Ok thanks @cnosil Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liberty Ball Markers Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 I try to avoid these... If boiling doesn't work, you might try torching the back side to loosen up the insert. I agree that spryevo is the guy for aftermarket inserts. If the milling isn't super important to you, the entire face could be leveled out as-is (with the insert in place) on a belt sander. If you plan to torch it for color, the insert needs to cone out anyway though. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy http://www.instagram.com/libertyballmarkers/ http://www.birdie-bomb.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p3ga Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 You folks are doing some really great work. Thanks for sharing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xstiffshafts Posted December 29, 2016 Author Share Posted December 29, 2016 Here's the signature series model 9 that I was thinking about doing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Driver: Burner Superfast TP 9* Fuji TS Evolution II Speeder; X-Flex 3 Wood: G Series 15* Tour 75g; S-Flex Irons: 2016 APEX MB 3-PW; KBS Tour; S-Flex; 1/2" Long, 1* upright Wedges: 50* 54* 58* SM5, K Grind Putter: Bettinardi SS9 DASS Prototype/Hexperimental Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ballenbrandon Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 Any more ideas guys? I heated up the back insert and the badge and back insert came out but I can't get the face to come out. Tried boiling it and prying it out, didn't work. Tried getting my heat gun on it for a good 7-8 minutes that didn't help either. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liberty Ball Markers Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 My thoughts are: the insert is probably not going to come out without destroying it. You could heat it and pry it, then talk with spryevo about a nice carbon fiber replacement. Or, leave it in and sand the whole face down (which would remove the milling, but at least get it all even again). Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy http://www.instagram.com/libertyballmarkers/ http://www.birdie-bomb.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ballenbrandon Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 Ok those were the two options I was contemplating. I think for my first redo I'll just sand the whole face but spryevo has some nice inserts that I really like. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liberty Ball Markers Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 There are also a lot of companies that can mill the face for you if you really want it redone after you get it flat. They don't charge a lot either. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy http://www.instagram.com/libertyballmarkers/ http://www.birdie-bomb.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xstiffshafts Posted December 30, 2016 Author Share Posted December 30, 2016 Here are a couple of the things I've been working on. I'm thinking about getting an insert cut for this N2 detour out of GSS or 303 and creating the "bore thru insert look" Also - I shot at the range with a buddy last night. He's seen many of my putters and we decided to torch the chamber/Cylinder on his judge public defender. It was nerve wracking. Can anyone say residual lead/carbon/gunpowder Select 2.6 torched with pvd coating left on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Driver: Burner Superfast TP 9* Fuji TS Evolution II Speeder; X-Flex 3 Wood: G Series 15* Tour 75g; S-Flex Irons: 2016 APEX MB 3-PW; KBS Tour; S-Flex; 1/2" Long, 1* upright Wedges: 50* 54* 58* SM5, K Grind Putter: Bettinardi SS9 DASS Prototype/Hexperimental Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liberty Ball Markers Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 Looks good! There used to be a guy on eBay that sold face inserts for those detours to make them similar to a buttonback. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy http://www.instagram.com/libertyballmarkers/ http://www.birdie-bomb.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McaseyM Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 Select 2.6 torched with pvd coating left on. Damn, that is awesome! Love the look Of the bronzed circles, Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy What's in my bag: Driver : F9 10.5, Fujikura Speeder 757 TR Fairway F9 15.5° Aldila Rogue White 80X Hybrid: King F7 18° KBS Tour PROTO Hybrid 95 S+ Irons: z585 4i - 6i, z785 7i-PW, Nippon Modus 120X Wedges: CBX 50.11, 55.11, 60.10 TT DG S400 Black Putter: Honey Badger 34" Ball: Q-Star Tour Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ballenbrandon Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 Well here's where I'm at right now on my first refinish. (Please pardon the old glue that I haven't cleaned out of where the insert and badge go) Before: After: I'm thinking of a darker finish our torching it and putting one of the milled copper inserts from spryevo into it. What do you think? Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liberty Ball Markers Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 Looking good!!! This is where I usually get in a hurry... make sure it's as perfect as you can get it before finishing, and be sure to degrease it before torching. If you have to handle it, hold the tip that fits inside the shaft or your fingerprints will show. My vote is to torch it! If it's stainless steel, gold or bronze is probably as dark as it'll get without a ton of heat. Carbon steel will quickly go past that and turn purple, blue, and then black. I use a block of wood with a hole in it, and flip the head upside down so it sticks up to torch. That one has a short neck - might want to use a 6 or 8 inch piece of shaft to get it up where you have room to work with it. If that doesn't make sense, I can post a pic. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy http://www.instagram.com/libertyballmarkers/ http://www.birdie-bomb.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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