IONEPUTT

You do NOT have to make two different swings, Just place the driver head 6-7 inches behind the ball and ball position will do rhe rest for you with one swing, not two. 

There is a website by an instructor that teaches his students to use shorter shaft driver and how it can mean more yardage and more fairways hit. 
A few years ago I built a 3 irons to a 7 iron length to see what would happen. What I found was that I lost about 5 yards with the shorter 3 iron, but I was hititng it  a good bit straigher. And after a bit to get used to the shorter club, I was on AVERAGE, not losing much at all. Longest shots WERE shorter, but my average was not much shorter at all. Just better ball striking and less off-line with the shorter shaft. So I ended up builting an entire set of irons with 1/4" between clubs instead of the usual 12". I started with the standard 9 iron length of 36" and than added 1/4" per club instead of the normal 1/2". What little distance I lose now on my best shots are made up for with more consistant ball striking and more accuracy with all of my iron shots. 

To answer your first question of why there are so few high CG putters, I can't tell you why. I do NOT have a golf lab to test my putter on. What I did was hit balls on the green and looked at the results to see if it worked better or not. I also had a dozen PGA golf insturctors test my putter against their high dollar OEM putters, and EVERY one of thos instructors sain the same thing. My putter rolled the ball better than the putter they had in their bag. EVERY ONE. 
My putter has 4* of loft to get the ball up out of the small depression it sits in on the green. Once to ball is level with the top of the grass, the high CG takes over and gets the ball rolling toward the cup with no bounce or skidding which is what we want with a putter. Have I don't the testing? YES. Do I have lab data to back my up? NO. I jus thave REAL world test results with over a dozen PGA instructors to back up my claims. IF that is NOT enough for you or anyone else, That's not my problem. I know the truth and if you don't want to accept it, not my problem. 

Sorry to hurt your feeling, But it is YOU that is ignorant on this matter> I looked at putter designs and I built a putter with a high CG and then tested it against the top OEM putters and what I found from my testing is that my high CG putter was better at getting the ball rolling on the green than the low CG models the top OEM's are selling. You claim that I am the ignorant one here but the truth is I did the testing with a high CG putter and YOU have not. As we all know, there are not a lot of high CG putters on the market which is why I'm pretty sure you have not done any testing yourself and you are the onw that is ignorant, NOT ME. 
I'm Glad you are done here because I'm tired of arguing with people who have NOT done any testing and just repeat what others have told them. 

Sorry to hurt your feeling, But it is YOU that is ignorant on this matter> I looked at putter designs and I built a putter with a high CG and then tested it against the top OEM putters and what I found from my testing is that my high CG putter was better at getting the ball rolling on the green than the low CG models the top OEM's are selling. You claim that I am the ignorant one here but the truth is I did the testing with a high CG putter and YOU have not. As we all know, there are not a lot of high CG putters on the market which is why I'm pretty sure you have not done any testing yourself and you are the onw that is ignorant, NOT ME. 
I'm Glad you are done here because I'm tired of arguing with people who have NOT done any testing and just repeat what others have told them. 

To answer your first question of why there are so few high CG putters, I can't tell you why. I do NOT have a golf lab to test my putter on. What I did was hit balls on the green and looked at the results to see if it worked better or not. I also had a dozen PGA golf insturctors test my putter against their high dollar OEM putters, and EVERY one of thos instructors sain the same thing. My putter rolled the ball better than the putter they had in their bag. EVERY ONE. 
My putter has 4* of loft to get the ball up out of the small depression it sits in on the green. Once to ball is level with the top of the grass, the high CG takes over and gets the ball rolling toward the cup with no bounce or skidding which is what we want with a putter. Have I don't the testing? YES. Do I have lab data to back my up? NO. I jus thave REAL world test results with over a dozen PGA instructors to back up my claims. IF that is NOT enough for you or anyone else, That's not my problem. I know the truth and if you don't want to accept it, not my problem. 

To answer your first question of why there are so few high CG putters, I can't tell you why. I do NOT have a golf lab to test my putter on. What I did was hit balls on the green and looked at the results to see if it worked better or not. I also had a dozen PGA golf insturctors test my putter against their high dollar OEM putters, and EVERY one of thos instructors sain the same thing. My putter rolled the ball better than the putter they had in their bag. EVERY ONE. 
My putter has 4* of loft to get the ball up out of the small depression it sits in on the green. Once to ball is level with the top of the grass, the high CG takes over and gets the ball rolling toward the cup with no bounce or skidding which is what we want with a putter. Have I don't the testing? YES. Do I have lab data to back my up? NO. I jus thave REAL world test results with over a dozen PGA instructors to back up my claims. IF that is NOT enough for you or anyone else, That's not my problem. I know the truth and if you don't want to accept it, not my problem. 

bottom line and the whole point of my posts is WHY would anyone build a putter with a low CG when we know a low CG will cause the ball to go Up and then bounce and skid when it lands which usually causes the ball to roll off line and may even cause the ball to come up short of the cup?  I just don't see any reason for a low Cg in a putter and yet most all putters built today have a low CG. Just makes no sense. 

I was talking about the up and down CG of the putter, NOT, the toe to heel CG of a putter. Two very different things in terms of how a putter will perform. I build my putters with a HIGh CG for better roll and the CG tow to heel is in the center as I always use a straight back and forward putter stroke, not a arc stroke. For those that use and arc stroke some believe the putter should be toe heavy. 

bottom line and the whole point of my posts is WHY would anyone build a putter with a low CG when we know a low CG will cause the ball to go Up and then bounce and skid when it lands which usually causes the ball to roll off line and may even cause the ball to come up short of the cup?  I just don't see any reason for a low Cg in a putter and yet most all putters built today have a low CG. Just makes no sense. 

That's fine if you want to get new woods and you like rotating the shaft to change the angles, But I for one do not like todays clubs that require the golfer to rotate the shaft as that messes up the spine and FLO alignment of the shaft and that can ruin the performance of what WAS a pretty good club. 
And not every own wants or needs to go out a buy all new woods. Cost is one factor to consider for most golfers these days. 

It's just more LOW CG putter when we all know that a low CG is good for getting the ball UP in the air and last time I checked that is NOT what you want to do when putting. So I big fat NO for me. 

can buy a can of spray paint in any color I want for about $3.00 so why would I or anyone else pay $2500 for a paint job?  Not sure how Paint that has been around for thousands of years can be called ground breaking technology?  This is just one more reason I think L.A. Golf has their heads up their butts. 

You do NOT have to make two different swings, Just place the driver head 6-7 inches behind the ball and ball position will do rhe rest for you with one swing, not two. 

It's now a month later and I wanted to point out something about that video about hitting UP at the ball.  One thing the guy FAILED to mention and which is the True Secret to the tip is that you should LOOK at a sppt right in front of your driver when it's well back of the ball. Focus on a spot well behind the ball and you have a much greater chance of having the Bottom of your swing well behind the ball so your club head is able to move UPwards when it contacts the ball. I've been dont this for a long time now and it works quite well for me and those I've taught this tip to over the yearss. If you look at the ball you tend to have the bottom of your swing right behind the ball and when you look at a point some 6-8 inches behind the ball your bottom of your swing tends to be well behind the ball and you can hit UP at the ball with no problems. 

I just watched a video about how to spend 2 minutes to gain 30 yards off the tee with one simple change to your driver set-up. Here is a link to the video if you think you might like to try it out. 
When I watched the video I was thinking I might find something NEW to try, but what I found was something I came up with on my own about 10 years at and have been doing ever since with great results. I teach it to a lot of golfers when I go to the range and give a leasson to someone struggling with hitting their driver. This is the only video I have ever seen that mentions this idea and it should be standard advice for ALL drivre lessons in my opinion as it works great for hitting up on the ball with little or no effort. 

I don't know about you, but I try to hit UP on the ball with my driver and woods then hitting off a tee for a higher launch angle and more carry distance, which is what most of the tour pros are doing. That is NOT what most golfers want to do when hitting balls with an iron. With an iron most golfers try to hit down on the ball at least a little to get more spin. NOT the same as what you want with your driver. So there should be two swings in terms of hitting down or up. You might wnat to try it yourself and you might learn a little about this craxy game you have not liearned so far. 

It's now a month later and I wanted to point out something about that video about hitting UP at the ball.  One thing the guy FAILED to mention and which is the True Secret to the tip is that you should LOOK at a sppt right in front of your driver when it's well back of the ball. Focus on a spot well behind the ball and you have a much greater chance of having the Bottom of your swing well behind the ball so your club head is able to move UPwards when it contacts the ball. I've been dont this for a long time now and it works quite well for me and those I've taught this tip to over the yearss. If you look at the ball you tend to have the bottom of your swing right behind the ball and when you look at a point some 6-8 inches behind the ball your bottom of your swing tends to be well behind the ball and you can hit UP at the ball with no problems. 

I just watched a video about how to spend 2 minutes to gain 30 yards off the tee with one simple change to your driver set-up. Here is a link to the video if you think you might like to try it out. 
When I watched the video I was thinking I might find something NEW to try, but what I found was something I came up with on my own about 10 years at and have been doing ever since with great results. I teach it to a lot of golfers when I go to the range and give a leasson to someone struggling with hitting their driver. This is the only video I have ever seen that mentions this idea and it should be standard advice for ALL drivre lessons in my opinion as it works great for hitting up on the ball with little or no effort. 

I just watched a video about how to spend 2 minutes to gain 30 yards off the tee with one simple change to your driver set-up. Here is a link to the video if you think you might like to try it out. 
When I watched the video I was thinking I might find something NEW to try, but what I found was something I came up with on my own about 10 years at and have been doing ever since with great results. I teach it to a lot of golfers when I go to the range and give a leasson to someone struggling with hitting their driver. This is the only video I have ever seen that mentions this idea and it should be standard advice for ALL drivre lessons in my opinion as it works great for hitting up on the ball with little or no effort. 

This 300 rounds idea is total garbage, as it would depend on how much practice you do between rounds that would be a better factor when you combine it with the rounds played. Total number of balls hit would be a better way to go. 

Since you and the OP are both in PA. might be a good idea to set up a meeting and you two can work it out in person. That is what I would recommend for the OP at least.  As for swing weight, I like to build up a set of irons so all the clubs are the same SW from longest to shortest. Adding lead weight in the hosel of the head will NOT hurt anything. Fact is all of Golfsmith and Wishon clubheads had a small weight port at the bottom of the hosel for this very purpose. Golfsmith even sold the weights that fit into this weight port for the purpose of adjusting the swing weight of any of their clubs.  Great feature in a head that I rather wish other club makers would include into their head designs. With todays club with no port in the hosel, I just add a lead weight into the tip end of the shaft to adjust the swing weight to what I'm looking for. 
This said, I'd have to say you got screwed over by GOLFUSA when they re-shafted your irons. It would appear that the guy that assembled your clubs was a useless jerk. IF he could NOT build up your irons with the mid size grips you requested to the swing weigh you wanted, he should NOT be building clubs in the first place. It's not that hard If one knows what one is doing. 

I watched that video with Ian and while he did hit the ZNE shaft wedge different than with the steel shaft, I did NOT see much if any improvement in his shots. Not straighter or better distance control. Just different not better. Not sure I saw a good reason to spend $180 on a wedge shaft for no improvement in performance. And I have 4 wedges in my bag now, so that would mean $720 for 4 shafts no including labor charges for those that don't do their own club work. So far I have not hit it enough in my 60* wedge to tell if it's any better than my steel shaft wedges. Time and more range time will be needed before I decide one way or another. 

With 20 pages of posts on this, Would someone please tell me IF you have found any real gains with these OTTO Flex shaft testing?  How much have you gained in terms of distance with the same or better accuracy? Was it worth the time and money in the end? 

there has been two tests that I know of. One was on driving accuracy and the other on how straight golf balls roll when they are spin balanced. Both tests showed a noticeable improvement in performance. Straighter ball flight off the tee and the balls rolled straighter on the greens. My personal testing shows the same thing, both off the tee and when putting. Well worth the time it takes to spin up a box of golf balls from my experience.