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Kansas King

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About Kansas King

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  1. I'm a proponent of flop shots but only when they are actually necessary. Regarding opening up longer clubs, there can actually be a use for it but I wouldn't call it a flop shot. I will open a 9 or 8 iron a little on rare occasions if I have a longer shot and need to clear a tree. These are not flop shots but the extra club length can really help get you a few extra yards on high shots from 130 - 150 yards for me. I have success with the shot but I certainly wouldn't call it a "flop" shot in that sense.
  2. I don't know if I would be too concerned about plastic on the golf course. I think banning plastic would be difficult from a business perspective as most courses can't afford to risk losing even a small portion of their membership and the sales of drinks in plastic bottles. Plus, things like plastic tees and bottles don't seem to actually be a problem on the course. I would be happy to see a recycling can or two on the course but beyond that I don't think it's really an issue. I understand the whole green push to eliminate single use plastics and I'm not against it but for me, tees are no
  3. Training aids have always been expensive. As Herts said, they are typically not mass producing them on a scale big enough to reduce costs. The pandemic has raised the cost of some training aids but they were expensive before the pandemic hit. The reality is that golfers tend to have more money to spend and are willing to part ways with money to find the "better mousetrap". Most training aids don't really work because they focus on one specific feeling and not the whole swing. The best training aids are generally just alignment aids. I also like the putt out because it's more of a focus trainin
  4. I think this test is interesting. I wouldn't recommend crossing out any drivers just because a brand wasn't in the top 10 (Ping). The numbers are probably all really close and you might find that driver #20 gives you the optimum spin and flight to maximize distance and forgiveness. If this test shows anything, it's that price point may not necessarily drive performance. I'll would be curious to see the data and how close all these drivers actually are. For all we know the top 10 drivers could be within a yard of each other distance wise.
  5. If you weren't striking the ball perfectly it's actually normal for GI irons to feel and sound better or more solid. Mizuno MP20s are great...if you strike them well. My biggest question for all players/GI distance irons is the spin rates. Shafts can help this out a lot but I don't care how far I can hit the ball if I can't hold a green inside 180ish yards. The other issues with these strong lofted distance irons is that many people hit these 7 irons 200+ yards because of strong lofts and typically big loft gaps in the lower irons. The ZX4s also have huge gaps (5 - 6*) in the shorter irons whi
  6. I'll be curious to see what these look like in person because these look very chunky in the pictures.
  7. I typically like most Miura designs but this one honestly turns me off. It just looks like another average multi piece club and the lines on the bottom almost make it look kind of cheap. I'm sure these look better in person but these pictures aren't helping the cause. The irons just don't seem to look like a Miura design.
  8. Nothing wrong with either. It really depends on how confident you are with your ball striking. If you're a relatively good ball striker, nothing wrong with the forged. If you're not a great ball striker and have to carry water five holes a round, maybe go with the hot metal. I think the other question is, what do you want? The real world differences on you're score aren't going to be that big between the two irons. We can split hairs all day between the two models spec wise but if you want the forged for the enjoyment of what you see in your bag and what you think would be more enjoyable to ow
  9. Generally it is right at .370. If the shaft doesn't fit perfectly you can get a little creative with a reamer or drill bit. I would recommend ensuring the putter is clamped down well and using a drill press or milling machine to make a straight, clean, and round hole. The other thing you can do is drill at a straight 90 degrees and purchase an offset putter hosel that receives a straight .370 putter shaft. I've never made a club head from scratch and don't know what equipment or experience you have but this is just the information I have bouncing around the inside of my head.
  10. Longer clubs in general are going to be a little more challenging. I would strongly suggest you see a fitter if you plan on playing going with single length. The hardest part about long wedges is likely the faster swing speed and how much spin you will be putting on the ball. I don't know what loft of wedges you're looking at but get some launch monitor data would be important to make sure the wedges fit. I know this is a little vague and isn't necessarily the answer your looking for, but the correct answer is to see a fitter.
  11. I'm always hesitant to spend too much time on the range. My recommendation for most people is to get a small bucket of balls and really try focusing on each shot. Hitting a 1000 balls can ruin a serviceable swing if you don't have a pro watching and helping or if you're not working on specific drills or swing thoughts. My biggest thing on the range is trying to swing freely. Most of us have swing flaws that we play around and try hedge against while on the course. It's difficult to swing freely when you are trying to score or not lose balls. This is where I like to try and make changes on
  12. I would make sure to talk to your fitter regarding the specs. I tend to gush about the CBX and other more forgiving wedge designs but that doesn't mean every normal wedge/Vokey is bad. The right grind/bounce combination can yield a relatively playable wedge also but I think it's harder to get a good fit. I personally play the PM grind wedges for my 56* and my 60* and I think they are rather forgiving but I also spent over an hour a day for over four years on a practice green when I was in high school truly learning how to use a wedge. Most people can't commit that much time to practicing with
  13. If you're looking for forgiveness inside 100 yards the CBX is probably the best choice. Compared to a normal wedge, the CBX allows you to relax as the sole grind really offers a ton of forgiveness regarding turf interaction. I would still be using my CBX if it wasn't for having a gap wedge in my current iron set that I like. I think an important thing to remember with the CBX wedge is that there really isn't any shot that you can't play with it compared to a Vokey. The most important thing is getting fit. It may cost you an extra $40 - $50 to get the CBX reshafted if necessary but it's worth i
  14. I agree with what most people have already said. I just want to throw in that there isn't really any poor performing putter shafts. The putter doesn't get swung fast enough to cause very much deflection. The only real differences in shafts most comes down to weight and how it is distributed. So, it's mostly all about your preference for feel. Additionally, if you want to try counterbalancing without changing shafts you can get counter balance grips or counterbalance weights you can put into the but end of your shaft if you like traditional grips.
  15. It seems rather common that wedges tend to max out on distance. The difference could be the shaft, swing weight, and spin. The grooves in your Vokey are likely cut more aggressively than on your PW, causing the ball to probably spin more but not go farther with a faster swing speed. The shafts and overall club weight is also a contributing factor as Titleist typically puts a 130 gram shaft in their wedges vs. the 121 gram x100s. So swing weight and total club weight may be fighting you a bit. The other thing is that a 5 MPH swing speed increase may not mean every club will have an equal yardag
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