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Kansas King

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  1. Shelby - Wichita, KS I currently use a Putt-Out on a BirdieBall mat currently. I'm interested in trying this version. I've used cheap mats, the Pelz Truth Board, and tried several other mats like the Well-Putt and other artificial turf. I like the slowest speed as it feels nearly equivalent to putting on a fast green the way it is.
  2. I think MGS is on the right track with where their research time is going. The ball tests actually give me hope that we will start seeing more measurement comparisons of different equipment in the coming years. I kind of wish Maltby would publish more of the data the have on woods and drivers as I know they do some testing on them but probably not to the same level as their iron testing. I would like to see the driver COG reports but I feel like driver heads are more of a trial and error fitting process as the COG is more of a fitting tool as some golfers will require a more forward or more rearward COG depending on their swing characteristics. What I am most curious to see is how many drivers actually have their COG directly in the middle of the face or where they have it marked. I feel that could be a big factor in regards to performance but I don't know if it is a good or bad thing without context. I think MOI on drivers is largely irrelevant as the MOI on every driver is very high relative to any other club in the bag. I think it would be neat if they did COR testing on drivers to see which driver actually has the hottest face. I imagine most would be close to the 0.83 limit but it would be interesting how close they all are.
  3. The Taylormade M2 fairway woods are an okay options but I would find a fitter to get their opinion on their fit. You may find that shortening the woods a little could help significantly. I've also found swing weight to be an issue when topping fairway woods. Throw some lead tape on the bottom and see if a higher SW helps. The other option is trying a new wood that is designed with a low COG. The Maltby stf2 fairway wood paks are cheap if you just want to experiment with something new. Most of all I would suggest seeing a fitter. Yes, it could certainly be your swing but fairway woods and drivers are the two hardest to fit clubs as there are so many variables in shafts and weights that could have a material impact on how the club plays. If you're trying to be frugal, order some lead tape or squares and give them a try. A little extra head weight can go a long way in reducing topped shots and lead tape isn't permanent if you don't like it. I also highly suggest looking at shortening your 3-wood if you can't control it. Most stock 3-woods are 43.5" or longer and that is simply too long for most average golfers to control. One inch may not sound like much but it can make a huge difference to feel and confidence. Best of luck.
  4. I would suggest you buy one if possible and give it a try. Worst case you're out $35 - $50 but you will be confident in what you do choose.
  5. It sounds like you need a shaft with a softer tip section but it's nearly impossible to tell without being testing different shafts and actually seeing your swing. You might also keep weight in mind as a 98 mph swing speed could potentially benefit from a slightly lower weight but that is more of a preference issue. You should also potentially consider a regular flex shaft if you have a smooth swing. A cheaper option for a shaft potentially worth looking at is the Aldila NV 2KXV Orange 65. This shaft's profile should help fight a slice but it won't fix any swing issues (no shaft will).
  6. Higher COG may only slightly affect your ball flight but the loft of the iron at impact is still the determining factor regarding launch angle. The shaft isn't going to make a significant difference on flight either as most steel irons shafts don't deflect much during an iron swing. The rearward location of CG being close to the face on irons and slower club head speeds of irons will result in little change of the dynamic loft of the iron. Lower flight can be achieved through lower lofts and a higher spinning ball that launches lower. The Ping i500s have a very high COG but it's unlikely they will lower your launch angle much. Keep in mind that a COG higher than 0.84" can reduce playability as it will be more difficult to strike the ball solid with the COG below the middle of the ball. I do suggest you get fitted as you might be surprised at what could be affecting your ball flight. Length, loft, lie, and weight are the primary variables that will affect how an iron performs. Getting those right will hopefully reduce barriers towards a better swing.
  7. I haven't seen anyone post this yet but wedges that come with an iron set typically have their grooves cut (or cast) differently than stand alone wedges. The wedge with your set will likely have less aggressive grooves than say a Vokey wedge. However, that isn't all bad but it depends on your situation. If you love hitting flighted down shots that hop and stop then the stand-alone wedge may be for you. However, if you like taking full swings then the set wedge may be the better option. You're swing characteristics also matter. If you balloon wedges and aren't the best ball striker, then the set wedge may be a better option as they typically are a little more forgiving. You may also prefer the less aggressive grooves even if you are a better ball striker because you may get better control. Too much spin is too much and pitching wedges are certainly a club where using the set wedge may be advantageous. Just because you can use a stand-alone wedge doesn't mean it will always be the best option. As always, you have to get fit to know for sure and stay open minded with you're options.
  8. After seeing an endless stream of KS1 photos I don't know what all the hype is about. They should cost at least $50 less than they do. Maltby sells milled putters for under $100 that appear to be of at least equal quality. I don't understand Scotty Cameron lovers either. Are they nice? Sure, but they aren't collectable. I hear stories about people gloating about spending three large at Scotty's studio for a fitting and custom putter and just wonder, why? Some golf shops used to keep a small selection (less than 5) behind glass in the past but now every golf shop has at least 10 just sitting on their putting green. Over $350 to get a putter than has been sitting out for a month and touched by 200 people? No way.
  9. Golfworks (and probably Taylormade) sells driver weights for the M4. Looks like you need the correct tool (torx T20 security bit) and some way to heat the weight. Golfworks' website notes that Taylormade uses Loctite from the factory that requires heat to prevent stripping out the head of the weight. You will probably want to ensure you also put Loctite on the new weight to ensure it doesn't back out once you think you have the correct weight.
  10. I see a lot of lead tape on your Maltby hybrid. Did you significantly shorten the shaft or were you just looking for a heavier swing weight?
  11. I'm a big fan of the Callaway PM grind wedges off soft stuff and out of the sand. The Maltby TSW (and other) wedges are also very playable and highly regarded if you are looking for a cheaper option. If you want some forgiveness, the CBX line from Cleveland are very good.
  12. I would recommend doing a little research on what Tom Wishon has to say. He and Maltby are more or less the kings of club fitting and custom clubs. Their clubs (especially Wishon's) are built solely for custom fitting. I think it is important to do a little research on the factors that go into club fitting. Wishon has several good YouTube videos that explain the elements for fitting certain aspects of the club. His book, "The New search for the perfect golf club", is a good read to get a really good idea of how the club works and what goes into getting fit properly. I like him because he isn't trying to sell anything in his publications even though he makes his own clubs. If you are considering dropping some serious coin on a fitting and clubs, I would recommend you do some research on Wishon.
  13. I think club fitting is important but the Club Champion model has always rubbed me the wrong way. In what world is it okay to sell a $500 driver but not offer stock shafts? It sounds like they offer a decent fitting but it will be tainted with constant up selling. If you want a good fitting, find yourself a Tom Wishon or local club fitter. Club Champion just smells of some over-leveraged private equity deal. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy
  14. Kansas King

    7 woods

    If you're looking for a cheaper way to tinker. I would recommend ordering a Maltby 7 wood (stf2) club pak for under $70 and give it a go. Maltby clubs are a quality and cheap way to try clubs that you can get built to your specs.
  15. I've done a ton of research when I was thinking about getting them and it seemed to be a mixed bag (mostly good) with which carts work best. Some swear by the stability of 4 wheel carts and others prefer three wheel carts. Some believe you need a swivel wheel in front and other don't. I think it largely depends on the courses you play. If you play flat courses with few hills, get what you want. If you play courses with significant or steep hills, four wheels may be the answer. In the research I did, I didn't find too many negatives as long as people were using the wheels with supported carts. I think if you're looking into a new cart + the ewheels, researching other fully-electric carts may not be out of the question price-wise. It just depends on your needs.
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