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Kansas King

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  • Swing Speed
    101-110 mph
  • Handicap
  • Biggest Strength
    Short Game
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  • Fitted for Clubs

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  1. Shafts come in every flex under the sun. What manufacturers call stiff vs. regular is all over the board as there are no industry standards. I know this may not be what you want to hear but you probably need to get fitted. If you're getting new irons, this is easy as you can just test what your maybe buying in a simulator or on the range. If you're wanting to just replace shafts then it's a little tougher as you will still want to get fitted but you'll have to either get fitted using a current iron head that is as close to your irons as possible or you will have to see if the fitter could install a shaft adaptor on your Hogans for the fitting. Realistically, you're probably going to be looking at a regular shaft. Some companies make firm or regular+ shafts that sit in that middle area. Steel shafts are relatively forgiving in terms of flex though. There are lots of good steel shafts of almost any flex that could fit you but graphite shafts have come a long way as well and maybe should be considered. However, graphite can have a real lack of feel when compared to steel and some people simply can't bear that. That lack of feel isn't always obvious during a fitting if you're not aware of it.
  2. I'm with what some others here have recommended and that's using a fan from a tool company. Milwaukee, Ryobi, Rigid, Dewalt, etc. If you already have a tool brand you're partial to and have the batteries for, buy that one. Most of these worksite battery fans are actually designed to move some significant CFMs relative to the cheap crap that's out there. The only issue is that mounting can be a little challenging but nothing a couple zip ties couldn't handle temporarily until the summer heat drops off.
  3. I've read the story on Star grips and I think they are worth a shot. Plus, even at $8/grip new, the price is decent. Regarding used shafts, I'm confident that any steel shaft of any age would hold up well assuming there isn't damage. Unfortunately, the plains states don't have a strong local used market like Arizona or Florida does. Regarding fitting, I'm thinking to do it right, I'll just ask and pay the fitter to install their hosel adaptor on a Maltby TS1 head. This would ensure there are not any question marks about what I'm getting fit for. The biggest issue when fitting for Maltbys is that COG is usually so much further away from the shaft/hosel (C dimension) that they tend to behave a little differently. I noticed that with my MMB 17s. I feel like it's kind of hard to describe but CG measurements matter a lot when it comes to club fitting. I've done some tests with various irons (using same shaft, length, similar loft, etc.) that have different COGs and the all flight differences are more pronounced than Ralph would lead you to believe in his literature. That's why I would be a little nervous to use any normal OEMs for a fitting since none of them have a C dimension like Maltby TS1s do.
  4. As far as new golf shafts go, Golfworks is the place I would go. It seems pretty rare for there to ever be specials on mainline steel irons shafts anyway. The prices for shaft pulls on eBay is what kind of caught me off guard. They were asking around $150 for a set of 7 or 8 KBS Tours and I though that was pretty steep, however. New KBS Tours are now $40, so I guess a set of pulls is roughly half price. The problem I have will the used pulls costing so much for a set on eBay is that they could easily be 10 years old and not know it. I'm also not fond of the idea of paying $20/shaft for used KBS Tours when I can get new Nippon 1150GH shafts for $24.50 each. Overall, I think the used club component used market is in a weird space. I suspect prices will come down significantly over the next year. I should really just stop Bi****n about used club prices because at the end of the day, I'm wasting a lot of time over $100 - $200. It's just frustrating because I know how much of this crap is just sitting around collecting dust.
  5. Those look good! What kind of grips are those? I was looking at Golfworks and a set from the Custom Shop is $700 - $800 with Star Sidewinder grips. I haven't looked at shafts in a while and can say that prices have gone up significantly. I could cheap out and buy a set of pulls of eBay but that's always dicey and the pulls aren't as cheap as I feel they should be. There are a couple other shafts I would like to try, namely the Nippon 1150GH, Tour Modus 105, and some of the other Project X shafts that have a little more give. I suppose I should just buck up and swing by my local fitter and pay the $100 bucks and get fitted for something like a Titleist T100 that would match up relatively well with the TS1.
  6. @azstu324 I agree about those FCM Rifles being special. I remember trying a set of TMs back in the day that had them and loved that shaft but it certainly wasn't a 6.5 (maybe 5.5 or 6.0). Regarding TS1s, they are my current target club and really have been for at least the last 12 months. I've just been too lazy and cheap (kind of a rich statement considering they're Maltbys!) to start the fitting process. My problem is that I don't want to play the shaft guessing game. I've playing Callaway Uniflex, PX Flighted Rifles (5.5), S300s, and Ping AWTs in the past. I'm currently playing some unlabeled stepless Apollo shaft in my MMB-17s. I also have built a few test irons using the TT Score shafts. I like the launch of my current Apollos but they are too light. The S300s are a little too heavy. The PX Rifles were okay but they felt too much like a board, even with only the 5.5 flex. The Ping AWTs in my i15s and my current Apollos are also a little too light. I actually really liked the feel of the TT Scores but they launch too high. I suspect my best iron shaft will be KBS Tours as I've tested well with those on the launch monitor and I like the feel. I'm thinking I'll probably have to play the shaft roulette game a little and get a test club(s) from Golfworks before committing. I bought a TS2 club from eBay a while back with a TT Score shaft and it was okay but I though the head was a little chunky and again, that shaft is apparently designed to send balls to the moon. Funny enough, the eBay seller told me he bought the club to for testing too and had similar thoughts on it. He said he went with the TS1s and loves them.
  7. I understand the feeling and I think it's really course/management dependent. The course I play now has a front and back that play similarly with a par 5 on holes 1 and 10. So, it's not that big of a deal. My last course had a significantly different back nine that was not pleasant to start on so starting on the back was not as enjoyable. The other thing about my old course was that something unusual had to be happening to start people off 10. If you're course starts people on hole 1 95% of the time, I get why you might be deflated to start on 10 regardless of mental prep. Now I still would rather be golfing than not golfing, so starting on 10, regardless of the course, isn't going to ruin my day but I could see where there could be some short-term disappointment. I can tell everyone on this forum are in peak mental fitness as apparently nothing can bother anyone. I understand that having "a swing is a swing" mental attitude is great on the course but I think it would be hard to find any regular golfer who hasn't been disappointed by a starting hole at least a few times in their life.
  8. I doubt it but you would really need to either buy a lie board or go to a golf shop and hit some balls on their lie boards with tape or stickers that show sole strike location. That's really the only way to know for sure and it's not time consuming or expensive. The only question I would ask to get a feel if about lie angle is, do you tend to hit shots that always go a little left? Clubs that are too upright will have a natural tendency to move left but it's really hard to judge if your irons lie angles are within +/- 1*. Plus, all your irons may have different lie angles as clubs can change over time or maybe were never on spec to begin with. So the ultimate answer is that trying to judge your lie angle based on an 18 year old wedge that claims to be 1* flat is just pure guessing.
  9. This is a pretty common occurrence with players who get "properly" fit the first time. A lot of times, golfers playing off the shelf game-improvement irons will be using club with a relatively light shaft that may or may not technically be a good fit for them. Then they play those irons for years and get used to them. Then they go get fitted and put into a more "industry standard" weighted club and suddenly everything feels different. I know many are also getting fitted into SteelFiber shafts and that is causing people some grief regarding lack of feel because as good as those shafts are from a numbers perspective, they aren't a direct replacement for steel in the feel department. I don't know if the shaft and weighting feels dramatically different to you but between the large change of getting fitted, you're also going from a GI iron head to something less forgiving. You're going from a relatively wide soled GI iron with a low and more rearward center of gravity (COG) to a narrower soled players-esque club with a significantly higher COG. So you have two or three notable changes in clubhead design that makes the JPX less forgiving but that isn't necessarily bad, just different. The JPX921 Forged aren't the narrowest of clubs so you will have a little sole to work with but it's not going to be quite like your Cobra shovels. The higher COG is probably what is making the clubs not feel as good or consistent. Golfworks measured the JPX Forged 6-iron to have a 0.844" COG. The ball has a COG 0.84" which means that in order to have a solid feeling strike with the Mizunos, you must either strike slightly down on the ball or find another way to get the club's COG slightly below the ball's COG. You may have guessed, but the COG of the club has to be at or below that of the ball for a "solid" feeling strike. So if you take into account the change in shafts and club head characteristics, it's not a surprise you aren't striking the ball as well. However, unless they did something weird and put you in graphite when you're used to steel, you're new irons will probably be good for you. It will just take some time and maybe some lessons. These irons might be showing some of your swing deficiencies that the old Cobras were maybe helping you compensate for. Good luck with the new sticks! Edit: I just saw you got fitted into the DG120 S300 shaft. That is likely a dramatic change from whatever stock shaft was on the Cobra's. The original Amp irons had the Dynalite 90s, so you're new shafts may be 20+ grams heavier with a significantly different bend profile. This will definitely take some time to get used to if this is the case.
  10. I occasionally sell on eBay but I'm always very careful. In my experience, eBay will almost always side with the buyer if the listing didn't clearly distinguish something the buyer didn't agree with. So always make sure the descriptions states the obvious and anything that's not obvious and use real pictures of the item that are decent. I do sometimes believe that buyer disputes on eBay come down to the eBay employee tasked with reviewing the dispute if it's not just a computer. I also try not to ship internationally as the items I'm selling are not worth the risk of international shipping or the costs associated with potential returns.
  11. I'm not shocked a DTC company went down but I didn't expect this company to be the first. I find it interesting Perry Ellis owns the Ben Hogan brand as I always thought it was owned by Callaway but that might explain why it seems there has always been a Ben Hogan clothing line. If the company that made Ben Hogan clubs couldn't find new investors, I suspect there are maybe a few other DTC brands that are shaking a little. DTC margins are thin and building market share in golf is exceedingly expensive. As much as everyone on the forums love DTC companies, it wouldn't surprise me if we are met with news of any one of them closing down shop. I always kind of use Maltby and the Hireko Golf brands as a measuring stick for DTC companies. I would say that companies like Sub70 and even Ben Hogan (or whatever the actual company was) put more effort into designing a better looking club. They charged more than Maltby and Hireko, so I've always assumed they had a decent margin above manufacturing costs but I was never sure if there was enough margin to cover SG&A expenses. It sounds like the Ben Hogan company maybe made enough to break-even or be close but I don't know. It's probably tough to find new investors when most of your product line is getting a little old by golf industry standards. Ultimately, I've always imagined that only one, maybe two, DTC companies would survive. If the Ben Hogan company couldn't make it after the strongest resurgence in golf in over two decades, I'm not as convinced of the health of other DTC companies.
  12. I grew up on a course with some elevation change, so I guess I've always been used to it. I do use a laser but it doesn't adjust for slope. If you're just trying to estimate the effect of slope, I would argue that it makes a little less of an impact than you may believe. Outside of the most extreme elevation changes on courses that do it for show, I generally never go up or down by more than one club, if I change my club at all. It could be that elevation doesn't affect me as much since I have a higher ball trajectory but it's not something that dramatically impacts my game unless I'm on an extremely hilly course like something in the Ozarks. I think there is a reason that slope rangefinders aren't a hot product because slope doesn't necessarily have that great of an impact on the game. There are also other factors being that many people play on flat courses and they aren't legal for tournament play. If you play on hilly courses, get a laser with slope. A laser rangefinder, even without slope, will probably do more for your game than anything. However, if you get a laser, you might as well get one with slope. The special thing with lasers is that every shot at the pin becomes an exercise in distance control. GPS is fine for everyday recreational/casual golf. However, when you can laser every pin, your brain will constantly be making mental adjustments to what your clubs actual distances are. If you laser a pin at 153 yards and you pull out a 9 or 8 iron because you think that is your 150 or 155 yard club and it goes 7 yards by the pin, now you know you just hit it 160. Where lasers really shine is inside 100 yards. I would argue that everything 30 yards and out should be lasered if you're trying to get dialed in for competition. It may feel dumb standing what you think is 45 yards away lasering a pin but when you find out that the pin is actually 52 yards, you'll realize how valuable that information is. Eliminating bad yardage information is one of the easiest things to do in the game and lasers are one of the, if the best way, of accomplishing that.
  13. I'm a big fan of the new softer compounds that Lamkin and GP have been coming out with the last few years. They offer good performance, comfort, and so far, appear to offer reasonable durability. I'm due for a regrip and I'm struggling on what to get. I currently have Winn Dritacs and those are okay but I can barely get through a season before they start falling apart. I'm stuck between going with the softer rubber like CP2s or getting the Star/Pure grips. I like golfing without a glove, so how grip and feel is important. I don't mind the multicompounds but they are a touch pricey, a little firm, and I've trouble with grip when things start getting even a little damp or humid.
  14. I'm still burning through what I have left of the four dozen Spalding SD Tour balls I bought from Walmart for $7/dozen last year. The sad thing is that I might just buy the balls again since they are still only $18/dozen at Walmart. I find that they are long and spin is good. I've played them side by side with Pro V1s and I really couldn't perceive any noticeable difference with distance or spin. I can't say an MGS review would say they are equally good but I can't perceive any differences in my real world experience. If you're looking for a cheap tour ball, I don't know that there is a better diamond in the rough deal than the Spalding tour balls from Walmart. I would be curious to know who makes them. The box says they are made in Vietnam by a company or supplier call Reliable of Milwaukee (whoever that is).
  15. I'm generally clueless on Snake Eyes stuff but my only guess about the dots on the wedges is that they maybe correlate to bounce but I'm only speculating and don't actually have any clue.
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