Granata13
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Posts posted by Granata13
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4 minutes ago, PMookie said:
I found the same thing with a set of i210 I won.... They just weren’t a good set for me at all. I’ve had the same thing happen post-fitting, the clubs I was fitted to just didn’t work out very well. Have you gone back to your old irons to see if they’re still as good as they were?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ProI unfortunately sold them. I have been using Ping irons for a long time and didn't think it would be that different!
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7 minutes ago, jlukes said:
Neutralizing that club bath will help. I210s are fantastic irons so I don't think they're causing any issues
I am always working on that, its one of my swing flaws. I am just trying to figure out why the ball seems to turn so much more than my old irons
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Hey guys I got fit for a set of irons last year, and I think I might have gotten to caught up with trying to get longer. I am a solid scratch golfer, I drive it straight and have a good short game and putt well. Irons have always been the issue. When I am on I can go low, but more times than not if I am going to play bad its going to be because of the irons. It might not be a horrible round but I just don't hit it close or miss greens I shouldn't
I went to a fitting at Club Champion last summer looking to get a new set of irons and gain a little bit of distance. I hit a lot of different irons and shafts, it came down to Mizuno MP20 HMB and Ping i210. For shafts the 2 best were Steelfiber 110Cw and Project X LZ 6.5. I ended up going from a set of Ping Ie1s standard length and loft, orange dot with Dynamic Gold s300 to a set of Ping i210s standard length, Power Spec loft, brown dot with Steelfiber 110CW stiff shaft
Here is the problem, the ball is moving a lot more than it ever has with my irons. I will think I hit it well and look up to see the ball turning left a lot more than I thought it should be. Even the slight mishits move more than I expect them to. I find myself aiming more to the right than I feel like I should have to. I went back and looked at my trackman numbers for the set I ended up getting and they are very similar to the numbers I am getting off my Skytrak. Here are the trackman #s from my fitting:
Ball Speed: 122mph
Launch angle: 18.7*
Spin Rate: 4568 (obviously this is off a mat, I know that lowers spin but is this still too low?)
Carry: 180
Attack Angle: -1.3
Club Path: 6.2
Face Angle: 1.35
Please let me know what you think, did I get too caught up in the distance gain? I gained about a half club throughout my irons
Is the lack of backspin the cause for lack of accuracy / control?
Holding greens isn't a big issue because my descent angle is fairly steep (45* off skytrak). I am just struggling with the lack of control on my irons.
When I received the irons the SW was around C8-9, I attributed this to the high balance point of the Steelfiber. I added about 5-6 grams of weight to the irons to increase the SW a couple points to D1. It has helped but the ball is still moving a lot more than I am used to!
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6 hours ago, release said:
Have you reshaft it ? Was the ferrule a collared ferrule called for the conned hosel ? The section of shaft under the ferrule prep the same as the inserted section ?
most the ferrule creeping up was cause by either the shaft raised up due to air pressure before the epoxy was cured, or excessive shaft movement when club head contacting the golf ball and the ground. If you look at a frame by frame still photo of the close up when the golf club strike the golf ball and the ground.... there are a lot of movement between each part of the hosel and shaft and the ferrule.....
I had replace with non-collared ferrule on all reshafting and no issue, ever. Except when the shaft had a little play, around the top of the hosel, which allowed for extra movement when in use; apply enough epoxy and the ferrule will stayput.
Here is a tip for you, run a rat tail file through the ferrule several times to rough up the interior wall of the ferrule apply thin coat of epozy and you'll never have another creeped up ferrule. Always prep "all" surfaces to be epoxied.
Both XR Pro and XR16 pro were straight from Callaway brand new! I did not try to re-shaft them myself, I just tried to re set the ferrule as Jaskanski has said. At the time I had just left the golf business and I did not have a good shaft puller so I did not try and re-shaft myself. I used to do quite a bit of club repair when I was a club pro so I just tried to re-set the ferrule but no luck.
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5 hours ago, Jin said:
Thanks Granata. Hmm You are right. The mizunoand ap2 has been fitted to more slightly upright. Due to my height and swing path closer to me. It does feel a bit closed when i hold the srixon. Thanks for enhancing my limited knowledge haha.
Does thickness of sole makes a difference as well?Thickness of the sole shouldn't make you pull the ball. I would start with lie angles and go from there. Like @Tap In said, what shafts are in each club? That can also have a factor in how you hit the ball.
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I had the same issue with the XR & XR16 Pro fairway woods, I did the same thing Jaskanski said but got annoyed that it kept happening. The XR Pro is one of my favorite 3 woods of all time but the hosel issue was annoying. It was not just mine, I know other people who the same issues with the Callaway XR ferrules separating.
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I think counterbalance, weight above the hands, is great in theory and I have tried CB putters a few different times. My problem with counterbalance putters is the touch putts, the ones were you have to have some imagination, were more difficult. If you believe putting is a blend of art and science, counterbalance is all science and not enough art. Thats the best way I can sum it up.
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It sounds like you got it fixed but since no one has mentioned it, my shafts in my wedges (54* and 58*) are different than my irons. I do the 8 iron spinner trick, I use the 8 iron shaft 1 flex stiffer than my irons. So if you use Project X 6.0 in your irons you would install Project X 6.5 8 iron shaft in your wedges. It has helped me control trajectory and spin so much better, because spin and trajectory are better so is distance control. Just something to keep in mind.
The only other thing that stands out to me is the gapping from PW to GW, that seems a little big. I would have rather seen you go PW, 50* then 54* or 56* and then to the 60*
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24 minutes ago, ncwoz said:
Welcome!
My grandparents used to have a place up in Oscoda, it's tough to hate all the beautiful nature y'all have up there.
It’s beautiful up here but golf season is short!! We woke up to snow on the ground today!
- ncwoz and MaxEntropy
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Hey guys, just one item for sale and its looking for a good home! Preferably a home that doesn't get snow in May like we did in Northern Michigan today!
Epic Flash Sub Zero 3 wood, Standard length Even Flow Black 6.0 shaft. Its in Mint shape, barely been used, only the face is showing light wear and sole has a few brush marks that are hard to see in pictures. Crown is mint.
$170 Shipping included!
Asking $175 shipping included
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Ball. The advancements in ball technology allowed club manufacturers to do more with drivers in terms of forgiveness. Like someone else said, we all used to play 6.5* Great Big Berthas. Now we can have a higher lofted driver and not add any spin, but I think this is because the ball technology not the club. The club helps but the ball is the reason. Hit todays driver and a balata ball and it will have spin rates that are through the roof.
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10 hours ago, revkev said:
Do it - just use one extra club - the last time I played with mine was four years ago - sadly I traded them in on the G30’s that I currently game - they have steel fibers too - lighter than yours - those shafts are all the rage among the mini tour players at my club BTW
Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpyI love the shaft, its light but same ball flight as Dynamic Gold, and the joints feel a lot better after a driving range session!
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1 hour ago, revkev said:
From one Ping fanboy to another, cheers. And I did game your Dad’s Eye 2’s. Easily the longest lasting iron in my bag - 15 plus years
Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpyCheers! I almost pulled a trigger on a set on EBay. Just for fun I would love to have a set and go out and play
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On 5/5/2020 at 10:16 PM, MattWillGolf said:
Nice set up. My G400 Max is a "pry it out of my cold dead hands" club. I have a PXG 3 wood with an Even Flow Blue shaft and love it.
That’s how I feel about my G400 LST. It’s point and shoot for me
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On 5/5/2020 at 9:59 PM, jkpigott said:
Nice set up. Whats the issue with the 18* Hybrid that has it on probation? Maybe too tight a gap with the 3-wood?
Since you're already a Ping guy, the G410 hybrids have a lot of pop and they are adjustable so you can really dial in your gaps.
But hey, you're a +.5 and I am a lowly 7.4. So I will follow your lead!
It’s perfect for gapping but it’s not the most forgiving and could use a little more height off the deck. We will see I just ordered a G410 hybrid.
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Footjoy rain glove when it rains otherwise I don't wear a glove.
- Average Mo and Gman24
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I agree with what others have said, wedges are personal and dependent on the conditions you play under. With that being said, I have never really liked Vokey Wedges. I don't know why but the grinds I have tried just don't work for me. I really like the new Ping Glide 3.0 wedges and have used each of the other Glide wedges. Its a great mixture of forgiveness and feel
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On 4/21/2020 at 3:01 PM, NRJyzr said:
Used to be into the Pure Pros, liked them quite a bit. But when there's a bit of moisture involved, not so good. Have been using Crosslines or Star Grip Sidewinders the last couple years.
Going to try testing leather again. I tend to run on the warm side and we get our share of gulf coast humidity every summer (just not as constant as they get). Bought a GripMaster Roo that I've put on a SW, and have a couple Best Grips Microperfs that I'll be testing on a couple irons. Used the SW w/Roo this past weekend, with success. My leather attempt in the past, I found the grips were a bit slick in the cool/dry Minnesota fall. The Roo showed no signs of that, in mid-40s temps.
If I can bring myself to play a single set (yeah, that'll happen), I'll probably put one form of leather grips on them...
Be interested to hear what you think. I just ordered a couple Grip Master wraps to try, its my first time trying leather grips. I like a round grip so I was a little Leary about ordering Best Grips, but I have heard the seam isn't very noticable
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54 minutes ago, RI_Redneck said:
I have used leather grips for several years now. I like both Bestgrips and Gripmaster. As The Dr. mentioned above, the GM Kidds and Signature run light. They are also problematic if you want to build them up any. They are pretty tight on standard tape.
I find the Roos, Master Perf and Tour Classic Perf Wraps run 50-51g in the standard size and have more room for expansion. I used to build up mine to about 1/16", which would make them play quite firm, except for the Roos. I have now moved to the Midsize Perf Wrap (58g +/-) which come out a little more cushy and easier on my arthritic hands.
The Bestgrips all have what they call "Pro Taper" which means the grips are a bit thicker under the lower hand. Some don't like this, so be aware of it. But the guys at BG are some of the best to deal with if you're looking for something special.
I have never had an issue with the stitching on the back of these grips. I find it hardly noticeable except on the midsize Montana Cows I have on my putters. The one thing I would say is a negative for ALL leather grips is that the butt cap can sometimes wear thin from removing and returning clubs to your bag. I find standing my bag straight up (when walking) to take them out and put them in helps a lot with this. I also like to wipe them down with a damp towel after playing so they are in pristine shape for the next round. However, if you get rough with them, they will wear through pretty quick.
Lastly, I install all my grips using blue Painters tape, mild soap/water mix and air. I have changed several grips multiple times with no damage whatsoever and never had a slipping issue.
BT
Great info!! Thank you. I can’t wait for mine to get here. Anxious to try them!!
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1 hour ago, Rickp said:
Let us know how you like the Gripmasters.
I have 3 or 4 older putters with leather grips I believe 2 of them are Gripmasters. I’ve always liked the feel of the leather as long as they’re keep clean.
As I get a little older I’m liking larger diameter/softer grips.
Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpyI definitely will. It’s something I have wanted to try but just now pulled the trigger
- Rickp and Dr Strangelove
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Thanks @Dr Strangelove. I have always used painters tape and then just a little mineral spirits when I have done grips with my compressor. I apprehended help
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15 minutes ago, Dr Strangelove said:
I wouldn't dissuade you from Best Grips. They are a bit softer than the Gripmasters. I'd happily play either. If you contact them, you can get "blemishes" for about $12 a grip or so.
Great thanks, I like a firmer grip and I also like a round grip so I ordered a couple of Gripmaster wraps to try. We will see how that goes, but I might also order a couple best grips to try. 1 more questions did you just use solvent to put the grips on or did you use air? I have done both and thinking about using air so I can switch them to new clubs whenever I get new clubs
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43 minutes ago, Popeye64 said:
I have tried them on a few occasions. Although they are just as advertised with the tackiness and superb wet grip I find them to be overly firm. So much so that it was a bit tough on my hands. I can be a bit arthritic at times and that didn't help. There may be softer versions but I was using the regular version. One was Gripmaster, can't remember the other.
Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
This actually helps me. I like a firm grip so to me that’s a plus to me.
thanks for the reply / help
Gained distance, lost accuracy
in Club Making/Repair & DIY Projects
Posted
So far I have done a bunch of testing and research, here is what I have done and planning on doing going forward:
I tested with lead tape, upping the swing weight by adding it to the head and upping the total weight by adding lead tape to the shaft slightly below the grip. I definitely like a club with a higher static weight. That means new shaft so I have ordered a few Project X LZ to try and see how that works
I definitely need more spin for my approach shots, I have been keeping a close on where the ball lands on the green and where my ball ends up and the roll our is definitely more than I am used to. Probably need to have the irons bent weaker from the Power Spec lofts they are now but also hoping the new shafts add some as well. I don't have time to send them back to Ping right now, golf season is too short in Northern Michigan. This will also get done when I have time or can find someone up here to bend them.
I have been working on my path by doing some drills and it seems to be working but as always its a work in progress. Still get to inside out on shots, especially when I try to hit it hard, but its getting better. I am also hoping the heavier shaft will give me a better feel of where the club is and help with the path.
Thanks for all your help guys!