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jaskanski

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jaskanski last won the day on December 23 2015

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  1. Not many shafts are balanced towards the tip due to physics - they're thick at the butt and thin at the tip using a uniform material. If you're intent on finding some sort of feel based weighting, then you're probably better off looking at swing weighting options which are a lot easier to engineer into club building - good old-fashioned lead tape being the easiest option to experiment with.
  2. Like I said - it depends on the circumstances. Some shafts have enough parallel tip section to trim to whatever flex you like, but may not possess enough wall thickness to allow them to be shaved down to taper. It's not a huge size as you have mentioned, but it's enough to cause failure at the stress point where the shaft meets the hosel. Specific hybrid shafts are usually good to go as they have reinforced tip sections and they are not likely to be trimmed to the same extent of an iron shaft - they tend to be called hybrid shafts for a reason -they're meant to be used in hybrids. Parallel iron shfts are meant to be used in parallel bore iron heads.... If you are using parallel shafts to fit taper hosels in irons - then you've got the wrong shaft. Use a taper shaft shaft for the correct insertion.
  3. Normal practice for hybrid shafts - not a problem for most shaft OEMs. Iron shafts may be a bit different though - if it is tipped trimmed to flex to be used for a specific iron# then it would most certainly be a no. In summary - hybrid yes - iron(s) no- (depending on circumstances)
  4. The black shaft with red lettering is the HZARDUS RED.
  5. It sounds like ferrule creep to me - it happens, particularly in hot climates, if you tend to clean your clubs in hot water, if you tend to leave clubs in a hot environment (eg in the trunk of your car). A quick fix is to gently heat the ferrule with a hair dryer or steam from a kettle and push it back down - secure it with a small dab of epoxy or even super glue and it won't give you much trouble again. Like I said - ferrule creep is quite common and not anything to worry about. If however you can twist the shaft in the adapter or hosel, then you have epoxy failure which will need immediate repair. The chances of the latter are pretty rare.
  6. Another vote for the Ping Eye 2 here. The overall design, concept, playability and performance was (and still is) pretty much faultless. The sand wedge alone deserves a mention as one the best all round bunker clubs - it just works. Granted, the look, the offset and the sole bounce (in some cases negative bounce on the longer irons) isn't to everyone's taste, but it's hard to dispute that any other iron had such an impact on the world golf scene from their debut to the present day. Tommy Armour 845's would be a close second maybe, with blade fans going for Mizuno MP33's and yours truly would wouldn't part with his Titleist 690MB's for anything.
  7. I say yes. If nothing else, you may find out something that will point you somewhere you didn't otherwise know.
  8. No Cubans today - Alec Bradley gift from a customer gets a puff. And it's pretty good.
  9. I think @cnosil has a valid point. Bending irons is not always as straightforward as you think if you aren't looking at the bigger picture. As with most good fitters, it's always best to get a snapshot of what you have before making any adjustments - bending 2* is only really possible if you know the reference point you're starting from. Did they just assume the irons were in standard spec without checking first or did they just move 2* from where they were? Measuring everything eliminates any doubt. That is why all good fitters get a baseline of results and metrics as a reference point to start from. The measured factors can assist in building a picture of what is required. After any adjustment - measure again to see how much has changed, regardless of how much you think it has been adjusted. If the adjustment is out of plane by a single degree, it will have an effect on loft. GC2HMT is a useful tool in getting a snapshot of where dynamic loft and face angle relates to impact and can give a useful 'before and after' confirmation of what is occurring. The good news is there is no replacement for the Mk1 human eyeball - and if the ball flight looks good, then all the tweaking in the world is pretty much irrelevant. It's much better to have a baseline of straight shots to work from rather than worrying about distance in this case. Sole interaction only does so much in analysis - it could be that your path is leading slightly heel first and giving more loft with the open face, even though you are otherwise square to target with your lie - it would certainly account for reduced distance.
  10. I would wait and get the right shaft. Alternatively, you could buy the wedges with whatever shaft and then get them swapped out by any competent pro shop up and down the land who probably WILL have a DG R300 either new or pulled in stock which can be fitted. The DG is pretty common for a reason - it just works. But for a variety of players it is seen as heavy, so it tends to get swapped out a lot. They are cheap as chips too, so don't expect to break the bank in finding one or getting it fitted. Or just wait for the right shaft.
  11. You could try the ubiquitous Trackman Optimal charts for driver distance. They also take into account your AoA, but also assume you hit the middle of the club....er...like we all do.
  12. I think you are missing the point. Any adjustment you do makes a difference by definition. Once you cut anything, it's a non-reversible exercise. How much of a difference it makes depends on what you as a person can perceive or see in real terms. Generally speaking, it is better to start small and see how it works - if more tipping is required, then you can take another small amount off. If you're too impetuous and lob off too much on a whim because you don't even know what the shaft spec is - you have just ruined your first shaft - congratulations. If however you saw a fitter and got the correct set up, it would save you the bother of the trial and error process that (a) could have prevented you from buying a club that is totally unsuitable in the first place and (b) would give you the specs to look for if you don't want to make a purchase that you perceive as a "selling model" - it's nothing of the kind. Once you know what your specs are that work, you can translate that to any piece of equipment that you will ever own again - new or used - not a bad proposal at all. A real fitter will never force you into buying anything - you just pay for their time and expertise. If they're trying to sell you a club - tell them exactly what your intentions are. If they refuse to fit you any further, it's their loss and not yours.
  13. If the shaft is already trimmed to playing length, any tipping will shorten the shaft - meaning you will need to extend the butt - which could make matters worse... It's always best to build the profile into the overall club before anything else - the section of the shaft that you intend to remain in the overall build is crucial. I did a post earlier that explains how it works: But how this actually relates to how you perceive it as a means of stability and control is entirely up to your own opinion. It does get said a lot, but if you get properly fitted before buying equipment, it does take the element of doubt out of the equation when it comes to wondering what you want and how you want to make it perform. Just saying.
  14. I have a 1999 Titleist 975F 20.5 degree that gets an airing from time to time, depending on which course I'm playing. Otherwise the oldest club in the bag comes from 2016.
  15. Well - it's not as daft as it seems. Weight is a much overlooked element of shaft fitting. It is a useful tool for controlling tempo. A fast tempo and transition would justify a higher weight - tip trimming 2" would negate the need to trim the butt further and therefore losing more weight. The logic that the 2" tip trim stiffens it up to the 'stiff' frequency range without losing as much overall weight as using a stiff shaft and butt trimming to playing length. 105mph SS isn't that extreme - it's certainly not completely out of any flex category to give the desired trajectory, spin and launch profile - it's all a question of getting the correct ball impact dynamics for the given loft. Your release point and AoA would be a deciding factor maybe to get you into the ideal spin loft - weight and length are the critical factors in getting the centre impact spot on. So if the numbers are good, the flex is a means of fine tuning.
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