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jaskanski last won the day on December 23 2015

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  1. You should probably read this before making ay modifications: https://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/18091-setting-the-record-straight-on-tipping/?tab=comments#comment-248218
  2. Just drill it out with a .335" bit.
  3. Correct. You may want to check shaft length too, which is slightly too long (assuming your set up is perfect lol) which accounts for towards the toe hits. As always, check your metrics first. By that I mean actual measurements. It's all very well saying that they are "1 degree upright and +0.5" long" - but from what? They were originally 18" long with a 30 degree lie angle?. In other words, have a reference measurement to start from (this will be the OEM spec or 'blueprint' measurement). From that you can extrapolate real data, rather than any of this 1up x long guff. In fitting we only use one specific term for length and lie - and that is the correct length and lie. The deviation up or down is irrelevant.
  4. jaskanski

    Snapping a Shaft

    From my experience, shaft breakage (specifically at the tip section above the ferrule) is the result of improper installation - period. Shafts installed into club heads are designed to cope with impacts in whatever form they come, so to blame breakage squarely on to poor impact is absolutely bogus. If the tip section has been improperly prepared and installed however, then you are basically waiting for a failure to happen. The tip section for one has to be prepped correctly. Any coarse abrasion to the tip can lead to weakness in the tip fibres and cause failure. Secondly, any lateral stress to the tip can also be the cause of tip failure - this is why we never install a graphite directly into an adapter of club head without first ensuring that the entry is either chamfered to mitigate side stress, or a collared ferrule is used to alleviate the same tip to entry stress. If you have a combination of these factors, then you have a recipe for disaster. I don't want to call out Ping themselves, but their mass produced orders are likely to be the cause of some (but not all) failures and not wishing to call out Golf Galaxy either, but their level of post assembly scrutiny simply does not match those of any professional club builder whatsoever. I guess you can probably attribute these failures to either one of these poor assembly techniques, but I guess these are also symptomatic to the general level of quality inspection that they get these days too - which is close to zero. I'm quite sure that both Ping and GG offer a full money back guarantee on the products sold - but the emphasis always seems to be on the sale rather than the the product these days, hence the increasing number of failures which are regrettably down to mass produced non-skilled labour techniques.
  5. I really don't get it. Would you buy a cake based on an algorithm's opinion on what you perceive as good? Or (as many do) seek a diagnosis for a medical condition based on an online "tool" ? The bottom line is that even though online tools exist to "help" in making choices, the sad fact is that they rely on user input to determine a recommendation - and guess what? people still lie about their own ability to "fit" themselves. Alternatively, you could go and see a fitter and you would know in an instant if something felt right or gave the kind of performance to match your ability - the naked eye only gives the naked truth after all. So if you want to get a medical diagnosis, see a doctor. For a cake, go see a baker and for a set of golf clubs - go see a shrink. Just kidding - get fitted. You could probably find one online - but you don't need me to tell you that now do you?
  6. Long story short - get fitted properly. Heel strikes are indicative of several different types of issues, but in essence the iron length to your swing path is wrong - which means the length is probably too long for the given swing, hence the strikes tend to be towards the heel instead of in the centre of the face. If the length was too short, the strikes would tend to be towards the toe. There are several other causes to take into effect, not least of which is the switch from 95g steel to 65g graphite, but the overall flex profile may also compound the error of length thus making consistent strikes almost impossible. Toe droop on irons is real and a critical factor in getting the length to lie ratio correct in fitting. If you haven't been properly fitted, you will also struggle to get it right. Two things to take away from this: 1. Don't expect miracles from an OTR set of irons that were never fitted for you in the first place. Get fitted first, then buy irons - don't try to fit yourself into a set. 2. Always compare apples to apples. Graphite and steel are similar in function but streets apart in how they perform per user. Graphite is a good choice to reduce stress and fatigue caused by repetitive ball striking, but you have to take the other factors into account to gain the most benefit of their advantages. Hitting towards the heel isn't going onto any list of advantages.
  7. I wouldn't be too hasty in thinking that. Regardless of the cost of manufacture for graphite becoming cheaper, steel still beats that price by a large margin. If you factor in the durability and easier assembly/prep processfor steel shafts too, I don't think they're going anywhere soon. Sure, graphite has it's adavantages but steel is still the king of iron shafts - and will probably remain so for a very long time.
  8. What head type are you putting it in? It can make a difference. https://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/18091-setting-the-record-straight-on-tipping/?tab=comments#comment-248218
  9. Good question. OEM's are limited to what price point they sell their equipment at. If labour costs for measuring and assembly are not controlled to a tolerance you have two possible outcomes: 1. Clubs built to a really high tolerance will be reflected in their cost - expensive. 2. Clubs built to a low tolerance will be of poor quality and will not sell in large volumes. Neither of these is really what most major OEM's are looking for. Instead, they are looking to build a club to an acceptable cost to quality ratio that consumers will empathise with. How much this tolerance actually is can be variable but for most OEM's they can be pretty sloppy compared to the "blueprinted" published specs. This can mean for length +/- 1/4" - for swing weight +/- 1 point - for loft and lie +/- 1 degree - for flex +/- 5cpm. These are relatively acceptable tolerances for OTR sets and at the limits of what the average golfer can detect with the human eye and swing. Modern manufacturing techniques can keep the tolerances fairly tight and consistent, but if anything is selling at an RRP lower than average, then you can bet that the tolerance will be lower as a result and/or the material/component cost/ quality - some pretty sloppy iron sets get the the consumer on a regular basis. Thankfully, the big OEM's (insert your favourite brand here) are usually pretty good when it comes to material and component quality. The don't peddle junk because their brand reputation depends on it. Of course, there are always some horror stories from some OTR clubs that are compared to spec and are WAY off... If you want a set of clubs to be spot on for spec - what we call "blueprinted" or what the actual published specs say - then unfortunately the consumer will have to bear the cost of this level of scrutiny and precision of assembly - major OEM's simply can do this at an acceptable cost to the consumer. Also if you have a sophisticated and costly assembly process, you get to pay for that too. Hand finishing, grinding, polishing, stamping, etching, engraving etc all add up to the final value - not to mention custom options. You basically get what you pay for - well, most of the time anyway. If you really want a set of clubs that are built to your exact requirements then you really need to be fitted by a professional and built by a professional - which may not be the same person in many cases. As for the tech - it's all pretty basic really. You just have to have attention to detail and measure everything - and I mean EVERYTHING. Cut and glue? Yes, but measure the cut AND the thickness of the cutting wheel - and measure the weight of the glue. Don't guess - measure it. Grips, ferrules, tape often get missed in the grand scheme of things. Flo and spine? yep - especially if you're building a SET rather than an individual club. Once you have the precision to build to spec, you can then reap the benefits of the precision the components offer (eg aftermarket shafts). If your precision is off, the rest of the build will suffer as a result. At the end of the day, materials are one cost that can be pretty easy to apply a unit price to, but someone's time and expertise are another entirely different cost that a lot of folks simply don't appreciate when it comes to golf clubs. For me personally, my time and expertise doesn't come for free. Typing this costs 30 bucks alone...
  10. Hot melt has it's uses, but most modern drivers and fairways/hybrids also have interchangeable weights to adjust swing weight. The Srixon Z785 can be adjusted quite easily: https://www.srixon.co.uk/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-masterCatalog_ClevelandGolf/default/dw520ce6fc/pdf/16_SX_Z65-Series-Instruction-Manual.pdf Head Tac is pretty much useless for swing weight adjustment. It is designed to be used to stop head rattles by applying a thin coat to the entire inside of the club head - since it isn't a heat setting medium, it will remain at a viscosity at a level that will be affected by ambient temperatures - meaning it will run to the direction of gravity if used in great enough quantities to affect swing weight and it's warm enough outside. Like sunshine and the trunk of your car in summer. It would recommend it's use only as a quick and dirty rattle stop solution.
  11. That shaft code is for a KBS tour V wedge. Not exactly a S400.
  12. I found it very similar to the original Diamana Blueboard, in like for like weights - which ain't no bad thing... The Tensei simply offers more lighter options.
  13. Mind you, you can probably see why with these beauties... I think he's probably going with a progressive iron set (CB/MB) 4-PW and 3 wedges to satisfy his 10 club deal. I expect the Tmag woods and ball will remain.
  14. World #2 Justin Rose has left his long time equipment partner Taylormade and signs a multi-year deal with Japanese premium brand Honma. JR had been with Taylormade since turning pro in 1999 - I guess he could probably sign with anyone he wants, but Honma was certainly an eyebrow raiser for sure. https://www.golf.com/gear/2019/01/01/justin-rose-signs-10-club-equipment-deal-honma-golf/
  15. It's one of those questions that gets asked a lot, but has no definitive answer. If we take into account the preferrences of the touring professionals, then we tend to see most pros going with a wedge shaft that is softer than their respective iron shafts. Why? Well when you think about it, how many wedge shots are you going to play with the same swing as your irons? The wedge shots in particular around the green which may account for a greater majority played will be by their nature of a delicate touch type shot, or a partial swing or chip or similar. Therefore the same flex as the iron shaft isn't really necessary or conducive to enhanced spin. Solution? They use a softer shaft to give better feel and spin. If you take the popular X100 DG shaft played by pros, you will find quite a few players usinfg the slightly softer (and heavier) S400 in their wedges precisely for this reason. Like I said it doesn't always work for everyone and preferrences can manifest themselves in many forms, but these trends are the key factors that provide the theory behind the decision to use a softer and/or heavier shaft for the wedges. As with anything else, try for yourself to see what gives the best results.
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