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jaskanski

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jaskanski last won the day on December 23 2015

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  1. Another day, another Bolivar Royal Corona. This time casually testing Mizunos (yes Mizuno) after the son did his normal trick of borrowing my Titleists for a golf break with his buddies. Nice all round - including the Mizzies - small Sea Dog rum to finish the session with a great smoke. Happy days...
  2. It's worth remembering that if you intended to use a 3-iron shaft to form a hard-stepped 2-iron - you can still keep the playing length you want - it only becomes 1/2" shorter when you butt trim the raw untrimmed length is at least 41". So don't trim the butt so much...no need to adjust lie so much. PXG will adjust lie if required anyway - but so can any reputable fitter or proshop...
  3. Pins? Not all woods are the same. Some have the shaft pinned near the heel (Macgregors for example) so these have to be located and either drilled out or punched through if they can't be unscrewed. They're usually concealed with wood filler so if you don't know where to look you could be in for a long search. If you have epoxy remove the whipping if fitted and heat the steel of the shaft until enough heat transfer can break the bond - never heat the head! Older woods probably won't have epoxy anyway, so once the whipping and pins/screws are removed the head should be able to be twisted of
  4. Por Larranaga Picadores with coffee in the sun. Perfect Sunday chill out.
  5. Vegueros Centrafino. Worth a look if you like robustos.
  6. Not really. The longer original length gives a greater club head speed for a given swing speed. The shorter the fulcrum length (ie the shaft length) for the same swing speed, the club head speed reduces accordingly. With a reduction of 1.5" you would probably lose around 3-4mph in club head speed. Doesn't sound much, but when you translate that to distance from resultant club head speed - it accounts for your loss of distance. If you can live with the increased accuracy it's not worth worrying too much about. But if you can't live with the loss in distance you have two options - restore the le
  7. Diplomaticos No.2 is a rare treat today. I think a pairing with a dark rum would be nice....
  8. My torch lighter has a punch built in which comes in handy from time to time if caught out without a cutter.
  9. I pretty sure this is not the case with Eye2 irons - the Ping ball bearing is for older Anser putters where is much less hosel depth the hold a shaft securely with epoxy alone, hence their use. Ball bearings in Eye2's? I've never come across them.
  10. You should have 6 inches of parallel tip section to play with. Depending on what iron number you start with and how true you want it to play to flex will determine your trimming - which will be 5" max amount trimmed on your wedge. Work back in 0.5" increments from that and your 4-iron will be 2" tip trim. Butt trim to your desired playing length from there once you have your set progression. To play slightly firmer to flex, do both Wedge and 9-iron at 5" giving your 4-iron at 2.5" trim. For slightly softer to flex, trim the Wedge at 4.5". You get the the picture.
  11. Both the Eye2's and 845s will have .355" tip size hosel bore. The biggest issue for both is that you have no ferrule (some models of the 845s did) so shaft prep for each has to be accurate to prevent any showing above the top of the hosel. Dry fit the shaft and mark the amount of prep required for each shaft before prepping the tip area to avoid over-abrading the shaft past the top of the hosel. Make sure hosel tops are nicely chamfered to avoid shaft stress. Ping Eye2s of various models have a notoriously sloppy fit in the hosel - shafting beads or making a temporary paper shim to centre
  12. Cohiba Siglo IV. Very nice indeed.
  13. As others have mentioned, fitting is a numbers game - not about the LM data (which does form a part of it) but purely about percentages. A fittied club will have a greater percentage of a better result - regardless of your swing. In fact, it's because of your swing that the fitted club makes perfect sense. It simply reduces the chances (or percentages) of a poor result than a club that is statistically less likely to provide a positive result, because it has not been matched to your physical or dynamic needs. It's that simple. Once you get your head around that simple premise, your p
  14. Not many shafts are balanced towards the tip due to physics - they're thick at the butt and thin at the tip using a uniform material. If you're intent on finding some sort of feel based weighting, then you're probably better off looking at swing weighting options which are a lot easier to engineer into club building - good old-fashioned lead tape being the easiest option to experiment with.
  15. Like I said - it depends on the circumstances. Some shafts have enough parallel tip section to trim to whatever flex you like, but may not possess enough wall thickness to allow them to be shaved down to taper. It's not a huge size as you have mentioned, but it's enough to cause failure at the stress point where the shaft meets the hosel. Specific hybrid shafts are usually good to go as they have reinforced tip sections and they are not likely to be trimmed to the same extent of an iron shaft - they tend to be called hybrid shafts for a reason -they're meant to be used in hybrids. Paralle
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