jaskanski

Yes

Discipline. Some have it - some don't. Some make up for that with naturual talent, but without the first component, they rarely make the 'great' grade. YMMV

His record speaks for itself. Shame he couldn't get the USPGA under his belt but he did finish T2 on three ocassions. Solid player and gentleman. Thumbs up from me. Underated? No way.

'My goal with the club fitting and my golf future in general is to get back to single digit handicap and have a set of clubs that fits my game'. There's your answer right there. 'Upgrade' refers to any improvement over the existing by definition, so to fall into the category of 'upgrade' it must be better than what you already have. That could mean the shaft or shafts, but it could also mean the loft, lie, length, weight etc. It could aslo mean yourself - but the ethic to do something about it is the main issue which you already have by the sound of it. That counts for a lot, rather than those who want to throw money at equipment and see an immediate improvement - therein lies the percieved issue of 'worth'. Stick to your plan and it's worth it for sure.

Swingweight doesn't matter as much as you think - it's basically a static measurement of the overall balance of the club. What does matter though is if you pursue the route of compensating for lost swingwieght (eg heavier grip or shorter shaft) by adding more weight to the head - this will affect the way the overall shaft flexes and adding to the overall mass of the club. I would suggest seeing how the clubs feels to you first when you fit bigger grips - they're probably not going to be massively heavier than standard (maybe 5-8g heavier?) which isn't going to make a huge difference to swingweight either (alterations to the butt of the club aren't as significant to adjustments to the head of a club). Try it first and see how it works and feels. And don't get too hung up on swingweight - most amateurs can't discern the difference in changes to 2-3 swingweight points - but most can discern the increase or decrease in overall mass of a club. For instance it's possible to have a club with an overall mass of 400g to have the same swingweight as one with an overall mass of 300g - the swingweight scale doesn't see this difference, but the golfer swiging it sure as heck does.

This. Without visualisation and imagination, you'lll never be a great chipper of the ball. You might be good with a go to club - but you'll never be great.

I'm a little biased as I'm still rocking the 900 tours. I prefer them over the 919, 921 and maybe the 923 if I'm honest (although the copper underlay is welcome on the 923). More than happy to game them until they wear out - by which time I'll probably get some more 900 tours. Be interesting to see what the new ones are like though...

Shaft weight controls tempo - if you have a quick tempo and aggressive transition, then stiffer, heavier shafts will help. The good news is that your shafts fit this category. The bad news is your swingspeed isn't enough to make them work. So I would consider going down to S rather than X and see what the difference is. A lighter shaft might also help generate more clubhead speed, but as mentioned it may come at the expense of control with your tempo.

Lol - is this a 'I've got a set of Miura's for sale' thread? Just kidding. Either way, Miura is a fine product but it could be described as 'niche' rather than mass appealing (like the Stealth HD) so there you have the disparity in price in a nutshell. It's got nothing to do with how much you paid for them - it's all about the residual value of anyone else who wants them. And that market is limited, beyond those who see the Miura product line with the same set of eyes that covetted them in the first place.

I have a feeling that the SLDR 5 wood (non-adapter) is .350" tip. I wouldn't worry too much though - a 0.335" tip with a shim will work fine and it's probably gives you a wider choice of shafts to pick. For my money though, it's much easier to pick up a used SLDR to match the one that has broken and will probably work out cheaper too.

Stock wedge shaft in Vokey wedges is your basic Dynamic Gold S300 (sometimes S200) - if you like Dynamic Gold then happy days. It's possible to get them custom ordered with just about anything you want depending on what your iron set up is, but ultimately it's down to personal preferrence.

This is a valid point, but after seeing 20 shots any decent fitter can probably see if any shaft at all is going to make any difference - ie the golfers swing is the main problem rather than the equipment. You can collate some baseline stats to state - 'this is what you're doing with your current set up' - and then you can advise 'if you change to this and adjust this, you might improve this'. Usually this is a simple change to grip, ball position and stance, at which point it ceases to be a fitting session and becomes more of a golf lesson.

Myth #1 - 'The shaft is the engine of a golf club' No it isn't. The person swinging the golf club is the engine that generates speed and motion. Without a human, the shaft would be an inert rod. The shaft is more like the transmission of a golf club (to use the automobile analogy). It transmits the power you generate to the club head. Myth#2 - 'Flex is the most important factor in selecting a golf shaft' No it isn't. Weight, length and profile are all more important factors before flex comes into the equation. And what is 'flex' anyway? Myth#3 - "Aftermarker shafts are better than 'made for' shafts. No they're not. In some circumstances, the aftermarket shaft and the 'made for' variant is exactly the same thing. Even when there are subtle differences between the two, it doesn't mean one is better than the other simply because of the cost difference. Myth #4 - "the shaft is high launch and low spin...' No it isn't. The spin is relative to the launch angle and the angle of attack. Unless your angle of attack is highly positive (eg you're hitting up on a golf ball sitting on a tee peg 1ft high) you will get more spin than a ball with lower trajectory for a like for like launch and face angle characteristics. The shaft may help to get the ball up to some extent, but it won't do it without an effect on spin.

Might be easier to pull the grip and see what the butt code is. Chances are if it's from a TM 300 series forged set, then they will be pre-cut discrete sets of rifle shafts rather than 44" blanks cut to length, but you can work out what the FCM is by weighing the shaft and measuring the length. Each shaft will have a certian weight per inch, per FCM - so it may be able to determine the FCM Rifle flex this way. For example, if you have a 6.0 shaft, it would have weighed 141g raw uncut at 44" - each inch on a 6.0 should be 3.2g, so if you have a 5-iron shaft at say 38" it would be 121.6g - but a lot would depend on the methodology used to trim the shaft (tip and butt), what the playing length was, what the head weight was etc. Obviously, weaker shafts start out lighter overall and have less weigt per inch. If you want to get into the dark arts of FCM and building Rifle shafts to specific flexes and lengths, then Howard Jones on GolfWrx is the don.

For a better than average odds to achieve the Grand Slam, the players with 3 already under their belt probably have the greater chance than most. Rory, Jordan Speith and Phil fit the bill, but you couldn't rule out Rahm, Scheffler, Koepka (enter favourite player here) giving them a run to the line. On probability? Speith has a better chance of winning a PGA Championship than Rory has of winning the Masters, or Phil bagging the US Open.