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About drb1956

  • Birthday 11/17/1956

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Streamwood IL
  • Interests
    Golf, grandchildren, travel, horseshoes, cars, yard work, remodeling projects
  • Referred By:
    Recieve e-mail

Player Profile

  • Age
    60 and over
  • Swing Speed
    90 mph or less
  • Handicap
  • Frequency of Play/Practice
  • Player Type
  • Biggest Strength
    Short Game
  • Biggest Weakness
  • Fitted for Clubs

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drb1956's Achievements



  1. CNOSIL, I appreciate your reply. I am kinda looking for more performance, as I kind of did the same with my putter. I just wanted to update, as I was playing with a 20 year old putter. Not that it was bad, but just wanted to try something new. Recently updated my entire bag, sans a few clubs that are relevant to me. Have a PING g410 SFT driver, which is great. Spend a lot more time in the fairway with this driver. Possibly get the matching g410 3 wood, or step up to the g425, which is supposed to be better yet. Was looking at Cobra Radspeed fairway, and would like to swing that club on a simulator. So much tech, and need to do my homework. I will take my Diablo to the sim when I am ready to pull the trigger. I will watch for the MGS MOST WANTED Fairway testing...
  2. I am still gaming a Callaway Diablo Octane 3 wood. It is a great club! I have updated my bag over the last 2 years, and am thinking of replacing my 3 wood with something newer. I had the matching driver, but replaced that with a Ping G410 SFT. I worry that the newer woods won't have the taller face of the Diablo, which I really like. Anyone have a recommendation? Should I replace with a Ping G425 SFT 3 wood? Anything Callaway offers that has the taller face? Thanks in advance for any ideas!!
  3. I have a set of their Reva "hybrid irons". I like them. They look real good, and are of good quality. And they are about half the price of the Cleveland Laucher Halo clubs. I have had no issues in last 2 seasons playing about 12-13 rounds. They feel good in the swing, and for me with my 80 mph swing speed, they work well. Get's the ball up from just about any lie. Don't need to swing hard, or fast to get good distance. I am a high handicapper, but with these, its going to drop. You do need to buy the covers they offer on the site, to keep them from getting chipped up. They fit better in a larger cart bag, with individual spaces for each club. Took about a week to get them 2 years ago, and you have your choice of shafts, grips, length, some are upcharges, some are standard. Will be in my bag for awhile. I get some good looks on the course with people I play with...
  4. A lot of people try to "help" the ball get into the air, especially chips, or in greenside bunkers. You really have to keep a firm left wrist, and follow through your swing. Backswing dictates how far you will "carry" the ball, to let it hop, and roll out. The type of ball you play can help you with getting the ball to "check up" for you, as 3 piece balls have that extra layer that is designed to give you more backspin on chips and pitches. Of course, you still have to strike the ball properly for this to happen. Work on technique in the videos you were given, and practice, practice, practice...
  5. I would try a heavier shaft, as in 75 gram, because as you get a heavier shaft, it tends to get "firmer". So you would not have to go to a stiff persay, as a lot of them really don't have any feel. What I mean is, I have tried a stiff flex shaft, and it felt like I was swinging a 2x4, with just about as much feel. I know a driver should not have to have feel, but for me it is a deal breaker. I have an 80 mph swing, and a stiff might keep me in the fairway, but I would lose distance, by a lot. I play a g410 SFT driver, with a 65g shaft(55g was stock), and I spend a lot of time in the fairway, 210-230. I would like to play the 55g, but its so light, I get out of tempo, and I don't have feel for where the clubhead is in my swing. It does give me good distance, just sometimes don't know where its going. Still have the shaft, cause I figure as I get older, might need a little more whip in my swing.
  6. I do not think wedge hardness is key, but how receptive is the ball cover, in relation to the grooves, and at what angle is the club being delivered. I would think a steep angle to the ball would make for more spin, which would make it check more aggressively on the green, as opposed to a more flat delivery of the the club, whereas you would have more runout. Cover hardness would also be a key factor to this, ie, urethane vs. ionomer. The old Balata covers would get shredded from wedges back in the day, and get a cut from poor contact from the club-like a smile. Old, raw, unfinished(RTG)type wedges lose there hardness over time(5-10 years??) in my opinion more quickly vs. a finished(chrome, blackened)wedge. Also, the grooves do not stay as sharp with heavy use. I used a set of Cleveland 900 RTG wedges for 10 years, and I would sharpen the grooves at the start of each season, usually late May, but as they aged, I would sometimes have to sharpen them again in August, depending on how much I had played that season. I could see that the metal was getting fatigued, not to where you couldn't use them, as they still performed well. Just replaced them early last year, with CBX2's. I have seen wedges from others where the groove area was literally dished in a certain area from heavy use. Lots of time at garage sales, I would see that on used clubs that they would be trying to sell. Take a pass on those...
  7. Just buy the cheap distance balls until you develop your game. You will lose a ton of balls, and you don't need to pay $4-5 a ball if you continually lose them. Read what you can about different balls on the mfgs. web sites, and read the reviews, so you know how they work for others. Mfgs. will tell about the characteristics of their balls, with the tech that's built into the ball. Buy sleeves of the more expensive balls to try them out. Some balls give you good spin around the green, but that spin can work against you on the tee. So, buy cheaper balls till you know you can keep the ball in play, unless you have deep pockets. TopFlite Hammer Control is a good starting point, with great pricing. Has nice manners around the green, with good distance off the tee. The Maxfli SoftFli, or StraightFli is also a good beginners choice, or even the Pinnacle Rush, or Soft is also another choice. TopFlite XL Distance is a rock of a ball, but they are one of the cheapest selections out there. Plenty to choose from, at low prices...
  8. I am 5'7", and I use a 29" putter, that I butt trimmed from 33". Tried to use it as a 33", but did not get my eyes over the ball. This is the 2nd putter I have done this to. I had an old Carbite ZH that I cut to the same length. So, when I got my new Cleveland HB 11c, it just was natural to cut it down. Felt too upright when it was 33". I use a SuperStroke CB 2.0 for a grip, and it is very comfortable for me. I miss putts, but just bad aim...
  9. Let's see..I have Ping, Callaway, Snake Eyes, Giga Golf, Cleveland, and a Top Flite ball. So, I have 5 different brands of clubs in my bag, but it feels "seamless" to me when I play. I have lucked out that the feel of my clubs is all pretty much the same, as I have gotten used to this. I will be playing this bag for quite a while. I am big on "feel" when I try new clubs. If I am not comfortable when trying, even after hitting 10-15 balls, not buying it. It was once suggested I try a "tour" version of a driver. Felt like I was swinging a 2x4! It had a "stiff" shaft. I don't swing fast enough for a stiff. Went back to the "regular" version, felt really good, had a great price(demo), and I played that driver for 10 years. So, I am brand agnostic, except my wedges! MUST be Cleveland!! It's a confidence thing with me to play these wedges. Currently gaming CBX2's, 50, 54, 58...
  10. I have a g410 SFT, and I love it. Spend a lot of time in the fairway. When I was being fitted, I could have gone with the TM Sim, as it was noticeably longer, but also with more dispersion. Also, could not get past the "bling" on top of the driver head. Never could see past anything but black on a driver head. Remember the TM driver that was white? Not for me! Ball color does not bother me,(yellow, green, red)but having a muted black driver is a must. My g410 was 20 yards shorter than the Sim, but only had a dispersion of 10 yards either way off center. My fitter said it was my ball, that was making me shorter, which was the Cally SS at that time. I was hitting both clubs with the same ball? Now, I'm playing the Top Flite Hammer Control, with good distance, and good manners around the greens. Not a tour ball guy...
  11. I use Lamkin Crossline Oversize on all my clubs, except driver, which is a midsize. Hold up well, good value, washable. I play 15-20 times a year, so I get a few years on these before I change them out. My .02...
  12. Go to PGA SS if you have one near you. Their house brand glove(PGA TOUR) is all I use. I buy 2 a season, and they hold up well. Never had one come apart at the stitching, like some lower priced gloves. About $6 a piece last time I purchased. Synthetic leather, with the extra layers on the stress areas, like the heel pad and thumb. They do have a lot of sizes, including lefties, not sure of XL. I wear a medium with most gloves, and these fit well, as you want the glove to fit snug, not squeezing your hand, but snug so it doesn't move on your hand. After use, I have one of those glove caddy's-it fits on like your hand so it can dry out, and then isn't so wrinkled, and all crumpled up in your bag. Been using one of these since I started playing 24 years ago. Gloves last longer, and don't stink. I have on occasion washed my gloves in the kitchen sink, with a little dish soap, rinsed well, put on glove caddy, and hung out to dry. Good luck in your search...
  13. I do like when the carts had the flipcard maps of each hole, with distances to hazards, and the turn clearly marked. Especially worked well on courses I never played before. On my home course, just need to know distance to the green. Back in the day distance markers on the fairway were the best. Just used a little guesstimating if you were behind, or in front of the marker. God bless my Garmin...
  14. I am subscribing to the Walter Payton pain management theory. He did not like taking drugs for his pain during his playing days, so he would train his mind to block out the pain, and trained his body to live with it. I currently have osteoarthritis in all my joints. I am a local truck driver, in and out of the truck all day, climbing on ladders to docks, climbing up in the trailer, and some days I wake up I feel like 90, currently 65. I get my mind in order for the day, and some days are more difficult than others, but I don't want to start on anti-inflammatories, as it will get to easy to have them as a crutch. Going to wait as long as I can do it this way. My doctor does not hold much hope for this, but I have been doing this for quite a few years, as like maybe the last 20. I don't ache after a round, even the next day I feel pretty good, with minor stiffness, especially in my hands. Good luck to you...
  15. Ok, the idea behind larger grips for the putter is a more relaxed grip pressure. It will promote a smoother stroke, hence you should have better distance control. There is a learning curve for the larger putter grips. I have SS CB 2.0. Would be uncomfortable to go any larger. So, practice is the order of the day. I know some people have the SS 5.0, and they love it! Way to large for me! Stick with what you like, and feels good, so you can execute your putts. You're the only one that matters when it comes to your game. Don't worry about what everyone thinks, or what they play. I do not play anything, with the exception of my driver, that a pro plays. I bought my driver because it felt good, and I could execute...
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