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JDHolmes

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    Houston, TX
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    12

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  1. A lot of good advice. I'll add hitting fairways off the tee, in many cases that's not with driver. This goes along with hazard avoidance off the tee. I will hot a mid iron off the tee to avoid fairway bunkers if it will require a very good shot to avoid the bunkers. Same goes for any hazard off the tee box. Know how long you hit your irons ON AVERAGE, not when you hit them flush. Sometimes missing the GIR is better.
  2. Ping drivers adjust lie angle when changing loft. This is different than most manufacturers. It doesn't affect face open or close like others although one site states that increasing loft promotes draw. Small - or + decreases lie angle by 1 degree. Big - or + decreases loft by .2 degree.
  3. Extensions of 1" add 6 grams of weight beyond a new shaft 1" long. I've done it both ways, hence knowing the weight difference. It does change swingweight based on that but it's not significant. This was done with 115 g shafts. I couldn't tell the difference and the extensions helped the contact. (For me)
  4. I do play a 7 wood in stiff. It's my go to 190ish club. As others have stated, depending on the thickness of rough and lie, I would hit 5 iron, 3 hybrid, 5 wood. Guess I should also add that it also depends on the tree situation. Here, most rough is accompanied by trees in which case, usually a 5 punch under ranches to whatever distance I can.
  5. 48x6x6 is largest box to use economically. Driver in that box will ship for less than $20 by USPS priority in continental US. A set of clubs will weigh about 9 lbs and will run up to $32 USPS depending on location. I personally only use USPS. Two important things when selling and shipping. Always get a receipt when you drop off the package. Pay for insurance out of your pocket. The peace of mind is worth it. Finally, boxes cost needs to be considered. Golf club boxes aren't cheap.
  6. PW is 46 and I play it to 125ish. GW is 50 and it is my 110 club. SW is 56 and is my 85 club. I use it from 30 to 85. Anything less can be any of them based on lie and type of shot needed. I've been missing the 100 yard club to fill the 85-100 yard need and I get that shot a lot so I just added a 52.
  7. Competition, against other golfers, and primarily against myself, and against the course I'm playing. This usually all takes place at the same time. This is a constant struggle every round and that is the ultimate trial. Most days, i lose one or more of the competitions. Some days I win all of them and that brings joy. The loses provide opportunities for improvement and there is always the next round. Some days you play golf and other days golf plays you.
  8. I took a set of irons I had built earlier this year to the range this morning to see if I could replicate the experience. They have 70g kuro kage graphite shafts in them so very similar weight to the recoils (though obviously not the same shafts). Not even close. Consequently, it may be more about the mb head than the shaft though as mentiined, the soft mid of the recoil is similar to the LZ's. I will have to do some more experimentation with the mb head and other shafts. Mb's are "supposed" to be harder tk hit, but they seem to fit my preference for thinner soles as I canNOT hit clubs with this soles.
  9. Thanks for the reply. The info camr from a shaft review site I subscribe to and is generally well respected. I'll just assume his recoil review was pre-taper esx shafts.
  10. Had time today and a $30 reward to spend at GG so I went to play a bit. I wanted to hit a few different shafts thinking of replacing the PX LZ shafts in my Ping i210 irons. Long story short, I ended up with a Cobra MB head and a Recoil 460 ESX F3 shaft. Best combo I ever remember hitting. Everything straight, consistent, and ok distance 155ish. (105) My question is how does the shafts feel vary through the set. In reading about them, it appears they are only parallel and it was said the weight varies through the set and thus feel. How are you/do you cope with the weight difference when moving to these from steel? These are quite light. I would hate to drop $1600 for a set then hate the variance through the set due to shaft differences. Any other comments are appreciated concerning your experience with these shafts (or other models of recoils)
  11. I have the Grint and Swing U but actually pay for premium on Swing U because its so good. I like the grint but too much pushing for online stuff. I dont do that
  12. I've seen that and have used it a few times. My "issue" is that I use a lot of positional, non full shots during a round and/or 1/2 or 3/4 shots. I have Swing U with which I can track shot and distance also (though not location) which I can choose which shot to track or not. I like shot scope and its getting easier to use but it still requires 30-60 after round minutes to get it right.
  13. I use a do-rag under a larger hat. Can take multiples if necessary. I use Dorfman Pacific hats and ended up with a large and use it for this. It is certainly time now in Houston as I spend more time wiping my face than anything else.
  14. I use a compressor and, if needed, blue painters tape. Easy off, easy on. No worries about time to get it right before it dries. If not aligned, pop in the air tool, give it a little pressure and roll the grip. Last weekend swapped and changed grips on 5 putters in 10 minutes with no mess. For alignment purposes, most grips have a center line "mark" or indention for alignment purposes. I use a sharpie to mark a line where the mark is and make sure mine aligns with the sharpie mark. Make sure your sharpie mark is long enough to not be covered by the new grip.
  15. I've had it for a couple of months. I lost the putter tag so spend time each round sorting that out. After remembering to make sure a tag registers, things have been better. I enjoy it, but cant really use it for distance tracking because if in trouble, theres no distinction for a punch out or full shot with 5 iron.
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