Buffly

I totally agree. I was only offering an alternative route to golf greatness - choose your own adventure. @tony@CIC I have seen a lot of your posts and, you have great insight on this. Thanks

You have earned a spot in the I will never respond to you again file - your lack of respect for my point of view is disgraceful, disrespectful, and rude. I'm fine with you.

I don't work for them. I just play Maltby Wedges and driving irons, and own two other iron sets from them. I find them to be the best value on the market for me equipment. I like how he designs clubs for the Amateur and how he has a different build philosophy for women's clubs than most OEMs. He designs women's clubs to actually have heavier head weights to match the shorter length of the club. Other OEMs just use standard head weights with lighter shafts and smaller grips in shorter length that only makes the club lighter and not more effective. I respect him for that. I recommend Maltby because I can't see spending over $1,000 for a set of irons, I like how you can have them custom built, and I am a techy nerd that loves the details. I am also a proponent of buying used equipment from the big 3 (Ping, Titleist, Callaway) and little 5 (Cobra, Mizuno, Cleveland, Srixon, Tour Edge) but, what they offer in women's and slower swingers is limited to Senior flex - mostly. I am a low income golfer - like an oxymoron - two conflicting terms. After this past weekend's event at Sherwood, I looked up what it took to play there - a country club membership is $85,000 + monthly dues + quarterly dining minimums. I offer cheaper alternative when I see an opportunity because I like to play golf for less than $30/round.

@Ryan M If you play golf with your wife then you might be able to see what clubs she struggles with in order to know if a new/newer set checks those boxes. (If she is reluctant to get fit) The Costco Callaway Edge women's set $549.99 - comes one way. Maltby M890 from Golfworks.com Driver $119.99 Fairway $64.99 each 3w and/or 5w Hybrids/Irons Combo set $309.99 4h-5h+6i-Gap = 8pc (or $59.99 hybrid and $229.99 irons individually) Specialty Sand wedge $57.99 (TSW w/Kuro Cage graphite) $120(D)+65(5w)+310(irons)+58= $553 but, you can replace just what she needs/wants. The Maltby M890 clubs go down to L and even lighter LL flex. The below graphic might help picking flex. The link to Golfworks for the M890 great is https://www.golfworks.com/m890-series-paks/c/80020/ & Specialty wedge https://www.golfworks.com/paks/c/10015/filter/100000000159eq100000000317/ And, if you order from Golfworks, you can get custom lengths, lie adjustment, and grip sizes. If she is willing, get fit at the stage she is at. If she has a set suited to her then she may improve faster. And, a fitting is like a lesson where they show you what your swing does to create the ball flight.

If you are talking about say a 4h to 4i length with a steel shaft then it would need extra head weight to keep the swing weight up and, you wouldn't necessarily have any gain over an iron other than higher launch. 4h is about 3i loft and 3i Head weight and about 1/4-1/2" longer than the same club in graphite or 3/4-1" longer than steel. Shortening the shaft by 1/2" is a decrease of 2 swing weight points so, 1" shorter is 4 swing weight points lower, say D2 down to C8. But, if you are saying shorten a 4h to 4i steel length then that could be 1.5" shorter and 6 swing weight points less. Adding 2g head weight brings the swing weight back up 1 point so, 4sw points=8g, 6sw points=12 g more head weight. All that is already done with the Cobra one length hybrids. 4i loft 21-24° and head weight 246g 4h head weight 240g (which is about the same as a 3i) 3i steel length 39", graphite 39.5" 4h length 40" (graphite) The reality is that the club is only 1/2" longer but, the lighter shaft also lowers swing weight. The extra half inch adds those 2 extra swing weight points back in. If the club feels too heavy then shorter will help lower swing weight. However, if it already feels light then, I would not recommend going any shorter.

@Urbs_Valhalla I have hit the Cobra one length hybrid and it was awesome. It is a friend of mine who games it and he also loves it.

Well, I had a chance to hit the 9i, 7i, and 4i, which all were factory spec without the problems I originally listed. I currently game Ping G2 TT stiff, 2° up with new midsize Golf Pride Tour Velvet grips. The Hogan Edge Irons I have are definitely more flat, less bounce, and no leading edge relief that are all features I have gotten used to with my Pings. I definitely struggled with the difference but, the feedback on miss-hits is what I was really looking for. I did place an order for an extension for the 5i and, I found new old stock Golf Pride Victory Swing Rite grips to replace the two I am fixing so they will all match. Cost about $60. And, if that was not enough, the seller on eBay have me a partial refund of $20 for the error. Paid $35 for the irons then partial refunded $20 = $15 Paid $37+22 = $59 for parts/supplies and grips Total $74 so far. Only further cost could be hockey grip tape and loft and lie.

The 2 is Senior Flex, but you are probably closer to R flex = 3 The C is Control, try B which is both distance and control The 3 is High launch The M is no correction for slice of hook. A S300 shaft is Stiff flex which for your ball speed would seem to much. It could come down to the club just being stronger lofted than yours to produce higher ball speeds. Your ball speed would translate roughly to 78-81MPH with an iron (even +5-10 with driver) which translates more to R flex than Senior flex. That would change your MPF shaft to 3C3M which also doesn't show any results but, 3B3M does https://www.golfworks.com/search.aspx?ss=3b3m And to your original question, that would be the AMT Red in R flex

OMG, I had a great time at the range! And, it was not at all what I expected. I had to cancel my range membership due to insufficient funds lately, but, a very gracious friend of mine let's me know when he is heading to the range and shares his bucket with me. Before all this, I always had my clubs in the car. But, now I am scraping by so, I was doing some caregiving work a town away when I got the notification from my friend to head to the range... The range is on the way home from my caregiving gig. I showed up without any of my clubs and, he offered to let me share his clubs. I know my clubs well and, I know his clubs were different in many ways but, it was sure fun trying to send a few orbs downrange with foreign equipment. I was able to dial in the driver, 7i, and Gap wedge pretty well. What really surprised me was the Cleveland 588 51° oil can finish wedge - I couldn't miss with it. ... I might be scouring used equipment for one soon. My friend is amazing and, I am very grateful to get a chance to hit a few balls with him.

@xOldBenKenobiX Love Seve! My list of former champions is Jack, Seve, and Phil (I know he's still playing). They all have instructional videos I watch from time to time. My favorite to watch now are Tiger, Thomas, DJ, and Bubba. Something about Seve was magical. He reminds me of a mix of a bomber, a short game Houdini, and a gentleman.

I am a button pusher too. Hehe I have had good results from the Titleist AVX, Taylormade TP5X, and Titleist ProV1x, in that order, to lower spin and gain distance off my driver - the only balls that I have ever hit over 300 yards. I am hopeful that the RZN HS Tour checks all those boxes for you.

My experience is only with the Nike RZN balls - I did not like them compared to a tour ball at all. The USGA lists it as 3 and 4 piece with a 1 piece cover. Also note, it says L-L for spin which means low spin off the driver and low spin off irons. The Titleist AVX is also listed as L-L on the USGA list. If you are a high spin player looking to reduce your spin then it could be a cheaper AVX option.

Counting all the lofts as equal: An iron has the shortest shaft, most forward COG, will produce lowest launch and lowest spin, usually heavier shaft and shorter length produces slower club head speed, easiest to hit but most penal on miss-hits A hybrid had a medium shaft length, lower COG then iron, more rearward COG, will produce a higher launch and higher spin than iron, and usually lighter shaft than iron will produce a faster club head speed, larger sweet spot can be more forgiving, and easier to hit out of the rough A wood has the longest shaft of the 3, the lowest and most rearward COG, and will produce the highest and most spin off the 3, additional length and lighter weight also produces the highest speeds, hardest to hit due to extra length for some This is all in theory as some driving irons are blurring the line between hybrid and iron. Also, some hybrids are doing the same with woods. It all comes down to what speed, launch, and spin is optimal for the individual. Personally, I go D, 5w, 4h, 4 driving iron with a hybrid shaft, and then 5 iron with steel shaft because it is optimised for my speed. I play with some seniors who could use more hybrids and woods in their bag. I play with another senior who plays a 2h through 5h then down to 7i instead of carrying any woods other than driver. The foolish thing to do is overlap lofts. For instance, carrying a 3i, 4h, and 7 wood all with the same loft will not be as effective if you are limited to 14 clubs and could use an extra wedge or different club. Pick the one that works best most often for you of the three for that slot in your bag. Note: I am an amateur only offering my point of view as opinion in my experience as a couch surfing armchair advice giver - I am calling myself out before the MGS police do.

@Bikizzle search the internet for "nike prototype irons" and you might find a similar set to what you have. A picture would be great?

@rkj427 is correct. However, there is a lot of documentation on moment of inertia not really changing much depending on grip weight because it is so close to the butt end. I had a chance to swing a buddies set with them. I did not notice a huge difference in feel but, the grip is huge. I had to adjust my grip quite a bit to be able to SQUARE up the face at impact. I can see a benefit of someone wants to swing like Bryson with a straight angle between the arms and shaft. The grip does allow the hands to be more opposed squarely.

I would go far as to say these look like the quality of Dunlop, Spalding, and Top Flite. Their website hasn't been updated since 2011. I wouldn't go out of my way to buy it but, if you already have it and like it then have fun with it.

I would recommend to @Firebird to not hold back. Swing as if you have been playing and practicing the whole time. Hesitation causes me problems so, I swing away despite no practice with better results. There is no such thing as muscle memory - only conditioning. Our brain is the memory.

I intend on gaming at least 8i-E to replace my Ping G2 irons for the scoring clubs if they perform as I expect. Otherwise, it will be more clubs for my vintage bag when I play with 'old dudes'.

I think so too! I still have another 60 dollars to throw at them to get them hitable. Then there is probably another $35 for loft and lie if I need that adjusted. Then I would be in them for about $130 to my specs and new grips.

I will do that. They have a house branded Golfworks solvent but they sell Brampton too. @Shapotomous mentioned using gas but, I don't feel comfortable with that. I did see a water based grip tape as well that I'm guessing just uses water but, I'm not sure it sticks as well?

After going on Golfworks, extension $3 and extension epoxy $7 = $10, Grips $3/each (x8), grip tape $7, grip solvent $4.50, shaft clamp $2.50, and shipping of $8 is just under $60 for all new grips and adjusting the length. I will put in the order soon. No rush yet. Sometimes they offer $1.99 shipping

Well, now you know that temp and humidity and pressure effect distance you can't blame those things anymore. Hehe

How did you calculate the swing speed? Tour pros don't usually swing irons that fast. Was that your ball speed? Were you using a radar or launch monitor? If it was ball speed then swing speed would be closer to 85mph. If that is KPH then it would be closer to 68MPH. Additionally, if you swing S300 shafts faster then you might want to think more about AMT White which is closer in weight to a S300. If your swing speed is 110 mph with an iron then you should be swinging X flex. That is why I am questioning your numbers. What club do you use from 150 yards out? 7i - R Flex, 8i - S Flex From http://ralphmaltby.com/what-is-my-mpf-rating/ The graphic is from that link and I added the L - ladies/lite, A - senior, R - regular, S - stiff, and X - extra stiff. This is an old tool that could be one flex off if the clubs are strong lofted/loft jacked where a 9i is really an 8i loft etc. One other thing to consider, if you are between flexes, I mean right on the fence, the lighter flex will generally provide more spin and more spin can mean a higher Apex. The stiffer flex will generally add more control.

Isn't that all that really matters?!?

@Theslomo the difference between the two of about 10g and high launch red to mid launch black. 9g shaft weight is only 1 swing weight point so, I would think about your tendency. Do you have more problem with launching too high (get black) or too low (get red). I am 43 and, I would not personally choose the red because lower launch, and more weight, helps me more than lighter and higher launch. I play stiff flex shafts in the 108-115g range. My typical 15 year old Ping G2 7i carries about 155-160yds (about the same loft as the new 8i lofts). My local PGA Pro harps on his students to stay away of adding weight because it can only decrease speed and increase exertion - his opinion. Ralph Maltby says play the lightest shaft you can be consistent with. I'm in the camp of playing the shaft that helps me swing freely and, 90-95g shafts feel too light for me where I feel like I have to swing softer to be consistent. When I want to step on a 7i I can get an extra 5-10 yards but, not when it has a lighter shaft. The following are general statements from a couch coach - armchair advice to ponder. Not 100% accurate for all players - very general. As far as weight goes, if you have a wild swing then more weight helps smooth it out. If you struggle with swing speed then lighter weight can help with speed (until it is too light). I watch a lot of TXG videos and, they talk about the shaft as a timing device so, once you find a weight and flex that fits then you will be able to swing more naturally, unincumbered, and more fluid.