Rtracymog

So I've been fortunate enough to have had 2 testing opportunities for MGS and both have worked out really well. I saw that you mention the "star" rankings on the reviews. Is this something new? Is there a way to see what ranking our reviews got? I checked my profile and older threads, but couldn't find anything. Having feedback from the MODs on what they would like to see or what they think we can improve upon as testers would be great!

Anyone have one of these laying around? I've seen a few on ebay in the UK, but nothing much in the states. Thanks!

I read that Cameron Champ put 2 i525 long irons (3-4) in the bag recently. Sounds like he was reaching high 170s ball speed off of the 3 iron. Pretty crazy!

Who is going to go and fetch all the balls off the hillside lol This would be awesome!

Thanks for the tips! Any suggestions on what grits to start or end with? When you say that the protection would be gone, is it going to patina like a raw wedge would or am I risking damaging the metal itself by using it? I appreciate the feedback!

That's a nice piece of equipment! Expensive, but needed if you're doing putters! Great pick up!

Thanks on the stamping! What about the refinishing for the putter or wedge?

Hey @McGolfany tips for a first timer?

Here's what I've got going on currently. Looking to add some more stuff soon! Can't figure out why it is upside down. I've tried everything!

Great looking set up! What did you use for the workbench top? I think that my wife would kill me if I put all those holes in the top of the husky tool bench she got me lol

I've done some stamping in the past and that's the plan for the wedge. Never stamped a putter though I'd have to figure out how to get the putter to sit flat

Hey Spies! I've got a couple of old clubs that I like to try and refinish. I have zero dollars into these two clubs, so it's really just a fun way for me to get into this! I'm really just interested in trying to get as many of the dings and nicks out of them that I can and shine them up a bit. Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated! Tools that are on my bench: Small Buffer Wheel 1x30 sander with a couple different grits including a cloth ferrule belt Club clamp Ruler Anything else that you think I would need to do a decent job on these? Thanks!

Congrats @GolfSpy_BOS!

You've got to find one that works. I played a 2 iron for my 2 years of high school golf and it definitely never really hurt me. My uncle passed and I inherited his old GBB Hawkeye driver and one day it just kind of clicked. I was able to hit down on that driver and still get distance (I was young and strong and didn't know anything about AoA, spin characteristics, etc.). That thing would literally spark from time to time and it was a pretty cool effect. Over time as I practiced more, read a lot of Golf Digest articles and watched TV, it just became natural. Granted, the driver is still the reason why I either score or don't score on any given day. I live by the motto "Long and Wrong." If I'm in the fairway, I'm going to be hitting a ton of wedges into a lot of holes. If I'm spraying it, lots of punches and penalty strokes. Try exaggerating the set up (weight in your heels, high front shoulder, etc.) and let it rip for about 20 swings. Just try to knock the snot out of it and have some fun. You never know, something might just click like it did for me.

First of all, whatever club you're hitting, put the same shaft into the same head to give you an idea of what changing shafts would do. Mizuno has almost every option in their fitting matrix with most flexes. That's the best apples to apples comparison you can make. The spin and launch rates may be different that what you're playing because the club head is different, but it's your best option. What you might want to look at, also, is the ball. There are some great TXG videos on youtube that give you a really good idea how much a golf ball change (which is going to cost you significantly less than re-shafting an entire set) your launch and spin characteristics.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't flighted irons supposed to be lighter in the longer irons and heavier in the shorter irons to get higher flight in the long irons and lower flight in the wedges? That 58 degree shaft seems extremely light for that club.

Sounds like a length issue. If you're hitting the heel, and producing a fade, my guess is that the swing is coming a little out to in. Essentially, you're making the club play longer than it actually is based on the swing path. I would try lining some shots up on the toe side of the alignment mark. Keeping the weight in the heel will allow the heel to slow down and the toe to speed up, so it does sound like it's in the right spot.

Yeah if I got them, I would definitely be reshafting them. None of the shafts really match what I'm looking for. How was the gapping? I noticed that they started to have some bigger gaps as the irons went up. I would be looking at bending some of the irons 3 weak. Also, I noticed the lengths weren't very consistent, so I was just wondering how you found them. Thanks!

Hi Spies! I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with the PXG 0211 ST blades? Right now they are $75 a piece on the PXG website and I can't think of any other blades/players irons at that price range. I don't know how long the sale is for and the shafts are super limited, but I was thinking about doing my own build with these and selling the shafts. Does anyone have any experience with them? I currently play the W/S model blades in the 7-PW, so I'm used to having to strike the center. Thanks in advance!

Do you need to change the lie angle when measuring woods or hybrids or do you stick with the consistent 60 degrees all the time? Looks like a simple, effective tool to have! Thanks!

I bought a fairly cheap 1x30 sander from harbor freight and it's worked just fine. I also bought a nice clamp from Rex on golfclubtraders.com and it has worked out well. I, unfortuneately, received a workbench that is mostly metal with an inch or so of wood on top, so a full vice isn't really an option. Also, mine is on wheels so it makes it a little annoying when installing grips. As far as the ferrules go, I bought a ferrule specific belt for the sander from golfworks. Most of the ferrules don't stick out too far, so you can can just use some acetone and spin the club a few times to get what you want. Just be careful with the acetone, because it will eat at the ferrule if you don't move quickly! Good luck!

Ping really likes the idea of counterbalancing. Their shafts are counterbalanced and I'm pretty sure that in the last few generations, most of the stock offerings are counterbalanced. Tensei orange, hzrdus yellow and even the evenflow black to an extent.

Your Ping Tour shaft is counterbalanced so that's why it's going to feel lighter. Color seems to be pretty important so you might be eliminating some good options. If you choose the 60g Hzrdus yellow, you should be fine. Plus, if you're only 105-108 with the driver, you probably don't need an X in the 3 wood.

I can second this! Watched some videos online on how to do it without one and I ended up breaking the tip on a driver shaft. Maybe you can take them to a shop and they will pull the heads cheaper than buying your own puller.

I've done paint fill on black Cleveland wedges and an old Rife Aussie putter and I've never had any issues with the black coming off. If you're filling in small areas, I would suggest going to harbor freight or something and getting a dental pick set. I used to use toothpicks, but I would go through a lot of them. Just be careful not to scratch the finish!