Rtracymog

I know this was is an older post but I did some cutting down and regripping of a Strata box set today. The glue/thin tap came off easily on the painted part of the shaft, but the unpainted area was a pain in the ass. I thought about the goo gone, but I didn't have any at the house. Heat and mineral spirits didn't do the trick where it normally does. Thanks for the suggestions Spies!

Good call on the paint job. If it looked like that, I wouldn't be dropping those kind of prices. @GolfSpy Barbajovery cool tidbit of info on Austie! Never heard of him, but it's nice to know that Zebra are going about this in the right way!

Hi Spies! Does anyone have any experience with the Riptide LX? I've used the evenflow black before and had good results. I've seen a good deal on this shaft and I was looking for feedback. I've never tried any of the riptide stuff before. I've gotten along with shafts that are pretty stiff and stable (Rogue Silver 70x, Motore F1 7X, VTS Black 7x). I've got some speed, but I wouldn't say that my transition is super aggressive. Also, I'm pretty happy with tipping all of these shafts so if you have any specific feedback on the 7X vs the 7TX, I would be all ears! Thanks!

Congrats testers! Looking forward to seeing the results!

Sounds like encouraging results! How are the Corey Paul wedge heads? I've seen some blanks for sale at a good price to do some stamping on and I haven't known anyone who has played them before. Also, did swing weight need to be adjusted for the BGT shaft when doing the re-shaft?

I was intrigued as well when I watch the TXG video. My problem is that I heard they don't work well (or there is very little benefit) when hitting full shots. I hit a lot of full wedge shots into greens, so I don't know if it's worth the investment. I would be interested to hear your results because I hit a lot of wedges per round!

I figured. It was worth a shot. Thanks!

Still available? Never tried the linq before, but the price is good.

How accurate did you find this? Were you using it more indoors or outdoors? Thanks!

When it's really chilly, I like the pair of Puma PwrWarm pants that I own. They are heavy, but very comfortable.

Bought a dozen of both the X and the Tour for my dad. He had always liked the Costco Callaway double dozens (Hex Soft?) and I had him try the Kirkland ball and he immediately noticed a loss in distance. When I bought the Maxflis (I think he prefers the Tours), he went out and shot his lowest round in years (43). He's a big believer in the ball and like @ChitownM2mentioned above, if you buy 4 packs, $25 a dozen is a great deal for these balls!

Biggest mistakes: 1. Not doing the ferrule correctly where it became scuffed and ugly. I needed to leave well enough along and I didn't. 2. Relying on all websites to have accurate shaft info. Needed a .355 shaft for a wedge and bought a TT GS (which I found out was only made in .370), but the website (Hireko) was wrong. 3. Aligning shaft graphics is tough. I thought I was on it, but it must have shifted while curing. 4. Trying to take a tip off of a driver shaft without a shaft puller. Twisted it too much and ended with a very stable, but very short and light shaft.

Thanks! Is there something that I'm looking for when I hit the hosel plug? Is it a different color, etc?

Correct the old shaft was broken and I didn’t have an extractor. I’ve been drilling out the old shaft and glue. The hosel cap is something I heard of in the @mcgolf video on removing a broken shaft. I had never heard of it before. Should I just be drilling until there’s a hole there and letting the shaft go in a far as possible?

Hi Spies! I found a broken Machspeed 3 wood that had been sitting out in the sun for a bit a couple of weeks ago. It was broken about 7 inches from the hosel. I don't have a shaft pulled but I watched an @McGolfvideo and I drilled out the old shaft (I think I have it all) taking care not to hit the stopping pin (I forgot what Mr. McGolf called it). So I now have about 5/8" depth in the hosel. 1st question is: Is 5/8" the correct hosel depth? I don't want to knock the hosel cap into the head obviously, but I, of course, need to get the shaft far enough into the head. 2nd question: I noticed the Machspeed has a collar in it. Is a collared ferrule a must? The shaft fits very tightly in the hosel currently. Last question: I just bought an abrasive saw blade for my 10" chop saw with a 3/32" thickness. How thick should the blade be? We used one at work all the time, but I'm not sure the blade thickness. Thanks spies!

Yeah I don't play tournament golf so I carry a PW, 50, 52, 56, 60. I can get buy with less, but if I've got them, why not use them?

Heavier grips moves the balance point higher = making the club feel lighter. The opposite is true for lighter grips. I put some JumboMax Ultralite grips on my father in law's clubs. He likes the heavier feel of the head, so he hasn't had an issue.

It's definitely a personal preference for sure. I play KBS C-Tapers in my irons, but really disliked the feel and control I got from the KBS Hi-Rev shafts in my wedges. I played some wedges with the TI S400 and really liked the feel and spin. I currently have KBS Tour S+ in the wedges and I do like the stability in them and the spin on partial shots. Wedges are tough because, unlike most irons, you rarely get the chance to try different wedge shafts in a head to see what you like. It's a lot of trial and error. It was great when Scratch was out because they had a fitting cart and vokey did for a bit as well. Edel wedges offer a fitting cart in some places as well. Good luck on the search!

Unless I'm hitting a tee shot that I want to roll or a punch out, I don't like to see my irons really roll out at all. I want to hit those things a specific distance and have them stay there. Most people expect their longer irons to run out a bit, but from 7 or 8 on down, you shouldn't want any roll on your normal shot. If you're seeing run on the short irons, it's time to look into a new golf ball or weakening your lofts.

I want to be able to pass the knowledge on to the kids I coach. I feel that if I'm not a good player or can't physically show them what certain things look like, I'm not an effective coach. Also, I want to win my family's golf tournament. I'm already the low handicap guy and I need to shoot 2 rounds at just about even to win (FYI I've never shot a shore of even for 18 holes). So yeah, I need to be good at golf lol

I want to see the talk of bringing the app back. When it was on my phone, I felt like I checked it daily. Now, with everything else going on, I feel like I spend less time on MGS. It's not a knock on the site itself, but I just feel like if it's not right there, more stuff grabs my attention/time.

Whenever I do them for people, I have them there with me. I put it in straight to my eye and then lay the flat part of the grip on a flat surface to check the angle. Everyone's eyes are different, so as long as the person likes the way it's set up, there's no complaints. As far as manufacturing tolerances, I've seen more than a few grips come from the factory that were significantly off center.

I've tried these at a couple of demo days I've done. They are ridiculously easy to hit. I was bundled up with multiple layers, a winter coat and some thinner under armour winter gloves (welcome to demo days in Michigan!) and I could still find the middle or close to it with these things.

Thanks Matt!

For me I do two extra wraps and then a final layer. I use all double sided tape because then I know the thickness is the same and that's the way I did it back in the shop. I make sure that I alternate the seams on the tape. I used pure grips a long time ago and I liked the feel of them, but I found that with the painters tape underneath, the grips would turn and twist. Just my two cents worth.