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  1. Same thing. I carried my golf clubs when I shopped for cars. But really, you should narrow it down for other items in the category and then test out those. I knew I wanted a mid-size SUV, not any kind of sedan. So it depends on how you golf? Always walk, always ride, push cart? I have 2016 ford explorer and works pretty well. I have clubs, push cart, and one of those trunk caddies that hold shoes and balls and stuff. Works pretty good. None of the mid-size SUVs that I found would fit clubs fore and aft perfectly. Honda Pilot is pretty big in the midsize category, but I didn't like the cockpit and other features. For golf trips, there is no better car than Suburban. Four sets of clubs and luggage all fit well in the back and good seating for 4 guys.
  2. Agree with all the comments that your current PW is just a 9I from as little as 10 years ago. I do play with 5 "wedges" 60, 56, 52, 48, PW (44). Really the only reason to have a club have 7I printed on the bottom is it is more convenient than saying "I hit the 35.5 Degree club". We could really all switch to "degrees" and your set of clubs would be the same as 20 years ago, with slightly different names. So I am not carrying a 4 Iron. 5I goes 180, 5W goes 200-205. So a gap in there at 190 (sort of). But you really need to add up how many times a round you need to hit it 190 into a green? Bet is less than 2 times per round. So I make my compensation there (lean on the 5 or grip down on the 5W) and consequently have more options with the much shorter wedge shots by keeping the 5 wedges. Many people space out there wedge lofts farther, 58, 54, 50, 44. or take out their LW (which is fine if you don't like it). But, I want the "scoring clubs" to be the most accurate and have slightly smaller gaps if possible (10-12 vice 15 yards). But some of this is just a comfort thing. Some people are totally comfortable to use 56 for all of their highest loft needed shots and just open it up if needed to go higher. But I hit all the wedges with a full swing with no issue and then when I go to stock short game shots (3/4 or 1/2 wedge or various pitches and chips), I have just increased my shot options by a bunch having that extra wedge. We often make jokes that "I hit 6 wedge (meaning 6I)" since pros are hitting PW 160 (or Bryson at 200). Just getting silly. Imagine you hit LW full swing 120. Now you are having to hit half type shots from 120 in? Not saying power is bad as it is a nice problem to have, but the object to score well, not necessarily hit every club as far as humanly possible. (except driver ;)) Cheers Tigger
  3. Three things I believe you need to look at when trying to break 90: 1) three putts. You can't ever make up a missed putt. I can drive it in the trees and still sometimes hit in on the green and it is like the bad drive never happened. Putting is less forgiving. Take a look at your total putts (I count using the putter just off the green as a putt cause it tells me more than the PGA stat way of counting). On your three putts, were they a lag putting issue, did you get it inside 3 feet? Or are you missing most 6 footers? PGA percentage of makes from 6 ft is about 65%. As an recreational player, you will be doing very well at 50% (though many people think they should make more). I am not saying you will never three putt, but if you are having 3 or 4 each round, something to work on. 2) Duffs. Another thrown away shot. You have plenty of power but sometimes that leads to overswinging. Also on pitch shots. If you only hit the ball two feet/two yards when you meant to hit it much farther, that is a wasted shot. Hard to get that back. So count those up. See if you have 2 or 3 of those each round. 3) Penalties. If you don't have more than 1-2 around, that is probably okay, but I really noticed guys shooting in the low 80s and 70s don't have hardly any penalties. It is related to ball striking and decision making. So is your wayward driving causing the OB/lost ball? Are you going for the green in two, too often? Some of this is strategy. And such a great thing to have the power you do, but you must use it wisely. I almost never pull out driver on a par 4 less than 350 yards (I hit 3W 230). I might hit 3 wood on a par 5 tee shot, that I don't want to try and reach in two because of danger near the green (water = penalty). Even with a wedge in my hand, I might not attack a flag tucked behind a bunker and the green sloping down steeply on that side. Putting for birdie is always a good thing, even from 35 feet and the center of the green. Just making the right decisions can save you 3-5 shots a round if you are smart. (Pros call it "being patient" and "Missing it in the correct spot") Really analyze you game. Take a blank scorecard and on each hole, write down the shot that cost you (or may have cost you). Drive in the woods put you behind trees. Three putt. hit it in the water, etc. Example. Drive in the fairway, PW to 4 feet off the green but in a little rough. Chipped it only 12 feet (PGA make 30% from 12 feet. you will make 10%) 2 putt for bogey, so it was the chip that cost you, not the PW shot. (pros only hit about 12 greens each round) However, if you chipped it to 3 feet and missed that putt, the 3 foot putt cost you. Everyone wants to be a great ball striker and spend a lot of time on it. Spend more time on short game and putting. Most people don't practice or take enough lessons on it. cheers Tigger
  4. I am not really sure this is about gapping. I really think this is more about more consistency (Hooks and slices?) with the 3w, so your options are: Change the 3W to one you hit just as far but you "hit better", fix the swing issue that is causing the inconsistency, or give up some distance to increase consistency. By generic definition, the higher the lofted club the less dispersion you will have. That's the physics part, not accounting for "I don't like this club" mental side of it. I agree you need a fairway "finder" shot, 3W, knockdown driver, 5W. If you want to talk gapping, I would recommend you start from the other side of the club list related to gapping, from Lob wedge going down, are your other 11 clubs (LW to lowest club not 3W or D) all gapped well? 10-15 yards apart in full stock shot distances? I fully believe you want your "hole" in the gapping (if you have one, down in the low woods / plus 200 yard range) Ideally, there would be no hole but the gaps would get a little larger as the clubs get longer. Most people just can't accurately hit FW woods and Low Hybrids precisely enough. Example for me: 7I =160, 6I=170, 5I =180, 5W=200 3W= 230 D=250. You can see my irons run about 10 yards apart then pushes open in the woods. How often are you hitting 200 plus yards using FW woods into the green? But if you are using them off the tee, you are trying to get them into a particular area, i.e. short of a bunker/water, to a nice wedge distance on a short par 4, etc, and you have a much bigger circle to land it in vice the green. BTW, I don't have an iron below 5 iron because they keep jacking the PW lofts and I like to have good gaps in my wedges (60, 56, 52, 48, PW) and I like using a LW. If I took out the LW, I would add a hybrid to 190 yards (also nice to putt with out of the rough) Lots of people don't like LW and have extra club slot for a hybrid or 4I or 5 W. Just remember that 1/2 of all shots will be inside a 100 yards. That is also where all the scoring is. Cheers Tigger
  5. I have been on both sides of this. It does take a little practice to make your routine fast enough so it isn't an issue and depends on how fast and giving your group is. If there are a lot of generous gimmies then it seems to slow things down, cause everyone is playing pretty fast (<3.5 hours). The other thing is if you want to use the line, allow yourself a little deviation on the line. I used to adjust and adjust and that got slow and tedious. But now I have just given myself a little more tolerance on the alignment. I do think that aiming is very important because if you aren't lined up correctly then you are already going to miss or make subconscious compensations to correct. But really it is the following: Are you putting well however you do it now? Make lots of 4-6 footers? slide it just by the hole when you miss from 20 feet? Putting less than 30 putts a round? Don't mess with anything. Work on other parts of the game. But if you are struggling, especially with direction, especially with inside 6 feet, give it a chance. Most pros use them, take that for what it is worth. Cheers Tigger
  6. I too have suffered with bad driver play from time to time, while still hitting the 3W really well. Couple of things: 1) The driver is the only club that you want to hit as far as you can. If you are ever worried about hitting it too far, then club down to 3W. Way too many guys grab driver on anything that isn't a par 3. 2) It all depends how far you hit your three wood and the courses you play. If you can hit a 3W 250 with decent accuracy, you are better than 95% of the amateurs out there. If you want to play from the tips (7000 yds +) in a gross club championship, you probably will need to learn to hit the driver. But just shelve it until you take a lesson(s). If you are playing reasonably casual from 6500, not hitting the driver is fine when you have zero confidence in it. 3) While it is a slightly different swing than other clubs might be, much of it is probably now psychological. "I just can't hit it". From an objective point, hitting a 3W off of a tee is not that different, but it is a little different. Similar to "I can't hit the lob wedge". A lob wedge normally has little difference from the sand wedge. (4 degrees and some bounce change), but people think because it is a "lob" wedge they need to be hitting massive cut lob shots with it. It is just another wedge. 4) if you can hit a 3W 250 legit, that probably means you are hitting 9 or PW 150 because you have nice swing speed. On a 400 yard par 4, you could hit 3W then 9. Pretty good. Me personally, I haven't given up on the driver as I want to be a club championship competitor, (Plus I can't let the driver win!) A few lessons might get you over the hump in both swing and in the mind. It did for me. It still isn't my favorite club, but I am not scared when I tee it up, not having any idea where it is going to go anymore. 2 lessons. Cheers Tigger (PS. sucks not having a driving range. Sorry about that)
  7. Part of it is consistency with types of clubs. It certainly makes sense for all of your iron type clubs (not woods or wedges)to match as the will be more similar in swing weight, look etc. But woods are totally different than irons, so not nearly as critical for the to "matching". How many guys have a scotty putter? It is just bag appeal and a totally different shot, so it doesn't need to match. What really matters is how far each club goes and do you have good gapping between clubs. It doesn't do you any good to hit your 4 iron the same distance as a hybrid or a 5 wood. So it is important to make those connection of "segments of clubs" (PW to GW) that the gaps are correct. I have often had to find the right next wedge because they keep jacking the PW lofts and still often make the 52 degree GW as the next "standard club". Currently have a 48 as well since the PW has gone to 44. Lets not also forget the pros playing all one brand are getting paid lots of money to do so. Same discussion on playing expensive brands vs cheap. We all have a little part of us that want to look "professional" (hence the white belts) and there is certain pride in people seeing your bag and being impressed (PXG, Homa, Scotty). Normally hackers don't invest a lot of money into clubs. We are all also convinced that we can buy some portion of our game. If you were really cool, you would go "white men can't jump" method and show up in loose cargo shorts and use orlimar clubs and shoot 73. That is legit.
  8. grip down on the wedges, almost to the metal, is different way to get more feel of control
  9. I think a combination of listed above is great. You need to know the proper technique that you are trying to achieve or your specific problem that prevents proper technique. (wrists breaking down, weight staying back, not enough body rotation, too much body rotation etc ;)) Then you get the chipping aid that helps that problem. Example; A "chip stick" that help you stop breaking your wrists is pretty good. But you have to know your specific problem, so video or a lesson is great to figure that out. Cheers Tigger
  10. Always recommend planning from the green backwards. What is the best angle in to get to the flag all the time (or that day). Where is the easiest spot to get that flag This green seems reasonable large and as a sub-350 hole, I would not pull driver. Anytime where if you hit the ball really well puts you in trouble, club down. Take that trouble out of play! Hit your 220 club and leave a PW. Anytime, you can hit a smaller club from the tee and still have wedge in your hand, you have made the right play. It is also what is comfortable to you. Shot shape? Confidence with hybrid? etc. bigger Club=bigger miss potential. Hybrid down the left center of the fairway with your fade, would leave you on the right center of fairway with PW in hand and best angle into the green. Good luck Tigger
  11. Lots of good advice here. The Direct to Consumer is the way to go unless you are a single digit hcp anyway. I play vice pro soft and hit it just as far as pro V1. I chose the pro soft vice the pro because it has a little better stopping power with the approach irons. They have mixed pack that you can try a few different models. At less than $30 per dozen, pretty good (have to buy 5 dozen). Kirkland signature is the best value, super cheap and decent ball. Probably 80% as good at a tour level ball. I believe that Vice and Snell are probably 95% as good as ProV1 for 1/2 the price.
  12. Not really addressing the particular video and hip speed conversation, BUT I have often believed that most Ams should look at LPGA for simply one reason, that it shows that technique is what matters. If a 5 ft 1 inch female can hit is 275 on the regular, and shoot 68, it is not always about the muscle. Most guys (myself included) get caught up in "muscling up, banging it out there, letting the shaft loose, letting the big dog eat, etc". How many times have you heard "I got fast from the top, I am overswinging, that was all arms"? Or "I tried to take something off and it just took off!" All sequencing and technique. We talk about equipment and ball choice all the time, this driver and that driver. Having great technique in the grand scheme of things is what changes your score or helps you strike the ball better. Yes, being big and strong can be a help if you strike it in the center of the club face already. But we all know plenty of muscle guys that can't break 100 or get it in the fairway on any regular basis. But great technique requires dedication and purposeful practice. That is alot more time consuming and not as fun for some people as going and whacking balls at the driving range to see how far they go. Power is great.....if you can control it. "lots of big hitters in the woods!" my dad says. Cheers Tigger
  13. Agreed. Good decision to use sun sleeves. They are cooler. I am in South Texas and the sun can be brutal. I just bought the $12 Amazon ones and they are fine, provided you get the correct size. First ones were too small and I gave them to my teenager. Next set are great. I have the Nike warm sleeves for when it is just cool enough on the first few holes and then pull them off as it warms. Since i just had skin cancer taken off my head, I am much more serious about the protection now.
  14. I do like the personalization with my name on it to ensure no one hits my ball and I don't hit theirs. Most balls have it available for a price, but if you look for it on special it might be included. I used to use 7 small purple dots all over my ball, cause no one marks it like that and you can see it no matter how the ball is sitting. The number of ProV1s with a black dot near the logo that I come across is crazy! I play Vice pro soft and ProV1 that both offer personalization. With regards to alignment lines, I do think it is a great idea in theory. Line up your line, match up your putter and stroke it down that line. It helps from peeking for sure. The downside is, if you line it up behind as you look at the putt, then stand over it, some times the view looks different from what you lined up as you look back and forth to the hole. The brings in doubt, which is terrible in putting. You want to commit to the line. Also, if you play with a reasonably fast group, it can get a little tense to continue to move the line 2 degrees and move back to look at it. If that is an issue, you really need to develop a routine that you get that done while others are putting or chipping. No ad here, but take a look at the concept behind "Trident ball marker". Pretty interesting concept. Lots of times I go to the Nicklaus method where (like on full shots), you pick a spot about 12 inches in front of the ball that lines up your ball and line you want to go on. (no mark on the ball) and then set you eyes to ensure it matches up. Then just roll it over that spot. I am a big fan of subconscious putting. let the computer brain do the work! Cheers Tigger
  15. Most people already do it when the irons and woods, or irons and wedges that don't match and there is no issues there. An important thing to me, are the distances gapped properly? I just want clubs that have the right space between distances. I don't need a 6 iron that goes 175 yards and a 7 iron that goes 170. That is not helpful. Also, you could have two unmatched 5 irons that have a 15 yard distance gap because of loft, swing weight, head type etc. So at the end of the day do you have 12 clubs that have the distance gap you want? (left off putter and driver, putter for obvious reasons and driver as I normally want to hit that as far as possible, even if it is way longer than my 3 wood. If you are worried about hitting your driver too far, time to club down!) Also having the confidence with each club is important. If you hate your 4 iron, ditch it and get a different one or a hybrid, or fairway wood that goes the distance you want. One of the reasons to have matched set with irons is you are assuming the manufacturer has already done the gapping for you. Since there is no standard loft or weight for a PW, if you buy mixed you have to make sure the effect at the end is what you want. Pros will go and bend the loft or change shaft to adjust the final distance they want to get. so they have a mixed set, that looks matched (plus the endorsement factor). So buying a matched set is "easier" for the consumer. Cheers Tigger
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