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bluesmandan76

Member
  • Posts

    224
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
    Troutman, NC

Player Profile

  • Age
    40-49
  • Swing Speed
    91-100 mph
  • Handicap
    2
  • Frequency of Play/Practice
    Multiple times per week
  • Player Type
    Competitive
  • Biggest Strength
    Approach
  • Biggest Weakness
    Putting
  • Fitted for Clubs
    No

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bluesmandan76's Achievements

  1. Supposedly polarized lenses, since they cut out reflected light, prevent you from seeing subtle reflections on the grain of the grass on the greens. I play better without sunglasses, but like others have said, when it's bright outside it hurts my eyes a bit. I've been using Torch sunglasses... the DNA with the golf lens. They're pretty similar to the Prizm. Non-polarized. Not real dark but they greatly reduce eye fatigue.
  2. Let's see... I think 11. 1987: Some Ping Eye 2 knock offs... Tour Model III I think. (hand me downs from my Dad) 1999? Ram Laser FX Forged (also hand me down from Dad). First set to shoot under par. 2000? First purchased set: Peerless Palmer blades. Didn't mesh (reg. shaft, really LOW CoG) 2001: NEW Titleist 681's (Loved 'em and used them for a decade). 2012? Used Cleveland CG16 Tours. 2014? A used set of Ping Eye 2's. Didn't mesh with them. 2014? A used set of Taylormades I hated because of the whippy KBS Tour shaft. 2014? I think a set of used Callaways... like the TM's I didn't keep them long. 2015? Mizuno MP4's. 2018: Mizuno MP18MMC 2020: Mizuno MP20MB The sets that I've LIKED were the 681's, CG16 Tours, MP4's and MP20MB's. All of them running S300 shafts. So clearly a preference for forged blades, with the CG16 Tours being the cavity back exception which I played for a few years when I just couldn't play regularly and so couldn't hit the sweet spot on my 681's. But as soon as I could start playing regularly again, I got back into blades. Tried the MP18MMC's, but went back to blades. I did like the shaft in them (LZ 6.0's) I would play one of the new TaylorMade irons with the foam injection... they feel pretty good for cavity backs.
  3. Well, all I can say is give it a try. It does work. You're not changing your swing or your setup. Just your loft and alignment. So I think the kiss principle vindicates this approach, as it is simpler to execute than altering your swing and your setup. It's what was/is advocated by Jack Nicklaus. Search on youtube for these videos: Jack Nicklaus Tip #2 - One swing - YouTube Nicklaus Golf My Way - One Basic Swing - YouTube
  4. Neither. Instead you should open or close the clubface slightly to add or remove loft. Swinging harder will add more spin, which is no good as you may just suck back right off the green. Swinging easier is a dangerous thing, as very often your swing speed doesn't decrease or you release it a little later because of the shorter backswing which takes off loft and you flush it, and it goes just as far or farther than your normal swing. We've all had that happen. If you're between say, a 7 and an 8 iron, and don't know which one to use, decide whether a fade or a draw would be better on the approach. If a draw is better, take the 8 and close the clubface slightly. If a fade is better, open the 7. You only need to open or close them 2 degrees to make them the same loft.
  5. Wishon makes woods with bendable hosels, so you can adjust the lie. That's the selling point for me. I currently play a Wishon 4 wood as my 230-240y club. I'm pretty slight of stature (5'4") and almost all 3 woods are just too upright for me, and so curve left... and with the upright lie you sort of have to come over the top a little so the heel doesn't dig, so you're hitting pull-draws as the only real predictable shot. Can't stand it. I have plenty of situations where I need to hit a nice fade with one, but just can't. Wishon makes woods with bendable hosels (almost no one else in the world does), so I can have the lie bent flat to accommodate me. Works great. I used to have one of his drivers, too, and it was fine, but I wanted something that I can easily swap shafts on, so I stick with my 2016 M1.
  6. My last purchase from lostgolfballs was in April... a bucket of 48 Mint ProV1's. There were a few refurbished ones in the bucket. Not too happy with that. But it's still a good deal. 4 dozen ProV1's for about $100. Hard to beat, even with a few duds in there. I play those or buy Kirkland's ball, which is pretty good, too. I've played DTC Snell balls, too, and like them, but haven't used them in a few years.
  7. Cabretta gloves just don't last very long with me. Between the humidity, my sweat, and cords on my grips, they just tear up too fast. Probably not a month. Either the heelpad busts, or my thumb pops through the end. In 2019 I started using Finger Ten All Weather gloves. They're sort of a microfiber cloth. I've retired some from being dirty and stretched out, and I've had one that the seams came undone, but none of them have ripped holes in them like cabretta gloves ALWAYS do for me. I've tried other materials, but I don't like any kind of "pleather" glove. They just don't perform. The microfiber cloth performs great for me, especially in the humidity where I live (NC).
  8. I usually see vertical lines on faces... but supposedly horizontal lines produce better roll. I think Guerin Rife did a bunch of research on it, which is why Rife and Evnroll both use horizontal lines... I think Sik does, too.
  9. Paul Runyan, (aka "Little Poison"), who had the best short game on tour for many years, advocated this kind of grip, though he did it with his arms quite bent. He sort of bent over with really bent arms and his hands both turned under the bottom of the shaft/grip. Bryson does it with straight arms, Runyan with very bent arms. There are a lot of youtube videos on him and putting and the short game.
  10. Steve, can you mill the face with the lines going horizontally instead of vertically?
  11. I'm like you. 5'4". I play my clubs 1/2" short and ALSO have the lie adjusted several degrees flat. You will not see any loss of distance with just 1/2 inch. Now if you take 3-4 inches off, yeah, you'll see about half a club or so. But half an inch will do very little, except make the club marginally easier to play. Getting your lie adjusted is FAR more important.
  12. For a non-technical thought, I like Penick's "Take Dead Aim." For a technical thought, at least for full swing, I like "Make the follow through twice as long as the backswing." Makes me really accelerate through the shot, and produces a reliable power fade for me.
  13. Rest and ibuprofen and heat to get rid of the inflammation and promote healing. Physical therapy to strengthen and heal. Lessons from a pro to fix the improper technique so you don't injure it again. Regarding the last one: a lot of guys struggle with this because they are hitting with their arms and hands, upper body strength being used in the wrong way, and the transition is sometimes too abrupt. All that puts tension in the right arm and elbow. You need to feel the club more in your fingers, and "swing" the club smoothly towards the target and just let the path of the clubhead pass through where the ball is, instead of "hitting" the ball. I like to think of the shaft/grip as being the handle of a heavy bucket, and I'm swinging and throwing the heavy bucket at the target. Just think if you had a 5 gallon bucket, half filled with water or sand... hold the handle like it's a golf grip, and then swing back and forth a few times about waist high, and then you need to toss the bucket towards the target to your left. The pressure on the right elbow changes... instead of twisting from the shoulder and elbow like an arm-wrestling contest and then pushing with your tricep (that's the motion that is hurting you), the motion should be more of resisting the centrifugal forces of the club pulling away from you, which you should feel in the fingers, and it should passively lengthen the arms, and you should feel your right bicep and right index finger controlling how much the clubhead dips out as you swing the club, instead of "hitting" at the ball with your right tricep and forearm. You could also imagine holding a heavy dumbbell and swinging and tossing it towards the target. You wouldn't push it with your right arm and forearm, but use your largest muscles (thighs, back, torso) and feel it pulling away from you rather than you pushing it away from you. A lesson or three from a good teacher should help you move in that direction.
  14. Definitely. I swap out 3w and 5w... depending on if it’s a long course (3w for the par 5s) or a short dogleggy course (5w off the tee on a few holes). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Oh yeah. I was a teenager when he was on SNL. He was very funny. Matt Foley... the Bears fan... the dancer... the nervous interviewer... [emoji1787] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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