Beakbryce

My golf cart that looks like a jeep. In USMC colors. I needed a cart, I wanted the jeep.

I know you want to do it yourself but you might want to check with a local pro- ours does it for $2 a grip and they are ultra straight.

I have had several brands. Play desert courses so not smooth and hard. They have all made noise, not a lot but some creaking, whatever. Not really noticed engine noises. I'm a retired Marine so think the things should be able to go over river rock and other hazards. Maybe explains why I have had several. I don't move them when people are playing. I guess my first one annoyed a friend because he offered to take it home and I don't know, oil it or something. If I can't fix it with a hammer and/or duct tape, I am at a loss. But I like a little, repeat little, noise because I don't have to watch it 100% of the time. The Stewart brand is huge oversees and the follow me mode version is like $2500, so am surprised that they are that loud. Good review, thank you. Don

I have a great three wood. I know it's great because every other month for 30 days it is superb off the deck. The intervening month, burn it, break the shaft, dent the nearest tree, smash it on the cart path BAD. But not looking for clubs anymore. Need to solve the puzzle with what I have. I guess I could go to the range, but dang it, to busy playing everyday and today it's like 111 out there so who wants to go to the range? I love my heaven wood with a 5 wood shaft. Solves the distance problem. Don

I'm in complete agreement with the 6 lesson comments. Most pros will do this for you. I'm not sure I would spread them out over a year. Maybe 6 weeks to three months with quick ten minute checkups to make sure bad habits aren't creeping in between lessons. You want a 1)grip and setup lesson, 2)short iron lesson, 3)mid and long iron, hybrid lesson, 4)wood lesson, 5}short game and putting lesson and most important 6) on course playing lesson for strategy and decorum. Or some mixture of the required parts. Don't expect to get better real fast but should see plenty of measurable progress. This kind of a package deal is usually cheaper for a new golfer because the pro wants to get you in the game with some knowledge so you continue to play, see them,and buy equipment at their shop. Don't hesitate either if it is done in a reasonably small group where sufficient personal attention is still available. The instructor should also teach how to diagnose and fix your common problems on your own. If you watch videos and read golf magazines, you will find 5000 ways to hit any one particular shot and confusion will reign. An instructor is best. Don

If your styling and like mock turtlenecks, look at Lands End Super T. It is essentially a light weight cotton t shirt but most courses will allow wearing a mock turtleneck style. They have long sleeves, and as long as you pick a lighter color, it's comfortable. I wear white and grey ones all summer here in Phoenix area. I also wear short sleeve ones with the separate sleeves as noted above. Also protects the neck from the sun. Bonus, they last forever. Right now they are on sale, ridiculously cheap. Men's Super-T Mock Turtleneck | Lands' End (landsend.com)

David LPS- in the same boat age wise. If you can find an adjustable hybrid set that you like, like the Big Bertha 19, you can order new weaker shafts in a couple of years and keep the clubheads. I ended up ordering women's clubs on the preowned site and then appropriate shafts for my wife and I, and that came out way cheaper than ordering the mens clubs. In a few years when I go to softer shafts, can just order the shaft. You can use this for a lot of things as well. Are you not comfortable with FW because of the shaft length? You can buy shorter shafts and just screw them in. Hope this helps. Don

Something else to look at on Callaway preowned. If you shop the women's hybrids and/or fairway woods, like the epic or big bertha line, you can get dirt cheap hybrids and separately buy the mens shaft which just screws right in, for sometimes cheaper than the men's hybrids. My wife uses senior shafts and I was able to get three hybrids for her in January with separate bought men's shafts and saved a bundle. Also 2 for me. The heads are exactly the same. Right now, a lot of the like new were demos that were never hit last year due to covid. In any case, if I go to sell the hybrids, I can sell either way to men or ladies as I have both shafts. I bought a Epic 5 wood and heaven wood last year doing the same thing. Saved about $50 per club. This won't work with the Maverick line as they aren't adjustable. You virtually have to shop everyday to find a deal. I shopped most of January for the hybrids I bought. Make sure to get the correct shaft type. Today womens BB19 5 hybrid $46-61 and 40 inch UST Mamiya Recoil ZT9 470 Optifit 3 Fairway Shaft $60. Normal 5 hybrid shaft is 39.5 inch.

There was a test several years ago that showed spin numbers for wedges come down through the proverbial "75 rounds", then flatten out, and then get better again as the club ages due to the wear adding some spin. The test definitely established they they never return to "new spin rates", but they remain eminently playable. I wish mygolfspy would conduct a new test and see if this is still true. Additionally, maybe when they start to improve again, does rusting the club or any other legal mod add any spin to an old club? What would that mod be besides natural rust if any? Does the spin rate differ greatly between manufacturer PW, AW, GW, whatever, like the Callaway Apex, and a specialty wedge at the same degree of loft like an SM8 or Callaway Jaws? How about playability? Right now, an individual Apex iron is $185 while an SM 8 is $160. With all the specialty grinds etc, the Vokey sure seems like it could be fit easier and is less costly. However, if the Apex starts with less new spin but doesn't wear as much where it is actually better at 75 rounds and going forward, maybe initial price and bounce options would be secondary for most players. Also, does it matter having good grooves if you are pitching mostly on your course or chipping? At the courses I play in AZ, I mostly hit running chips which would seem to mitigate the need for sharp grooves. Inquiring minds would like to know?

Whenever the USGA makes a new groove rule. Seriously though, there was a test several years ago that showed spin numbers come down through the proverbial "75 rounds", then flatten out, and then get better again as the club ages due to the wear adding some spin. The test definitely established that they never return to "new spin rates", but they remain eminently playable. I wish mygolfspy would conduct a new test and see if this is still true. Additionally, maybe when they start to improve again, does rusting the club or any other legal mod add any spin to an old club? What would that mod be besides natural rust if any? Does the spin rate differ greatly between manufacturer PW, AW, GW, whatever, like the Callaway Apex, and a specialty wedge at the same degree of loft like an SM8 or Callaway Jaws? How about playability? Right now, an individual Apex iron is $185 while an SM 8 is $160. With all the specialty grinds etc, the Vokey sure seems like it could be fit easier and is less costly. However, if the Apex starts with less new spin but doesn't wear as much where it is actually better at 75 rounds and going forward, maybe initial price and bounce options would be secondary for most players. Also, does it matter having good grooves if you are pitching mostly on your course or chipping? At the courses I play in AZ, I mostly hit running chips which would seem to mitigate the need for sharp grooves. Inquiring minds would like to know? I don't practice because I play a lot, so I expect my wedges to last for years. Not sure how many people have $450-$600 laying around to replace wedges every 75 rounds. Rocking SM6.

I learned to play golf a long time ago and the theory then was to sweep the ball off the tee. Hitting a drive high on the face with an average wooden driver was not the way to go. Golf now is overly complicated when a specific driver swing needs to be learned, i.e., hit up on the ball which is so different from what is needed for every other club. Pro's and elite amateur's have the time and desire. The problem with golf club design right now is the clubs we used are designed for pro's who can swing up on the ball. The sweet spot is high on the club. Most golfers can't learn one swing, much less multiple swings for each type of club. The company that realizes that they need to be designing clubs for the rest of us is going to sell a lot of clubs. This is what would actually happen if there was a requirement for a shorter tee. The driver swing would have to approximate what most amateur's are doing anyway. So go for it.

Yup, I had grave misgivings when I saw the commercial as a big play to upend mygolfspy findings. I don't buy Callaway balls. That being said, I haven't bought balls in years. Find to many on my course. Other than driver distance, see no real difference in my game with picked up Pro V1 or V1(x), Callaway Soft and Soft(x), and TP5 and 5x. Sure, slight differences in height and distance with all clubs and characteristics around the green, but, the only ball wobble I have ever seen in my hits or hits from the people I play with are, well, shanks. I appreciate the testing, but I still think until mygolfspy uses x-rays instead of cutting a ball open, and then taking the off center balls to an Iron Byron, testing them in a scientific manner with balls found to be "passing", the actual affect of off center layers is empirically debatable. I understand my play wouldn't be called high level, but a wobble that affects ball flight would be noticeable.

Probably the shaft. Or just maybe, you could smoothly swing a choked up 410 6 iron. Choking up will result in similar shaft length. No expectations with the copper, lots of expectation with your current gamer. I know the lofts are different and the lofts for the 6 copper and 7 410 are probably similar, but still think you should redo and hit the 6 for both.

So here I am 26 years after I was gifted an 11 degree Big Bertha Warbird. It replaced my wooden driver and it felt a lot different. While many clubs since then have come and gone, that one has made every move in the intervening years. Yesterday, decided to take it out after 20 years and hit it. It was replaced so many years ago because I hooked it. Not anymore. I didn't try it on every hole, but all but one was dead straight and that one was a little baby draw. So here's the scoop. I used TP5 and Chrome Softs. My gamer right now is an 9 degree Epic. Given that it has a longer shaft and better technology, it was no surprise the Epic was roughly 20 yards longer except for one that was 40 yards and I thought I hit both well. Gust of wind, sprinkler head? who knows? The trajectory on the Warbird was a little flatter but it still hit a pretty good window. The other surprising thing was it was virtually silent. No loud crack when hitting the ball. And boy is that clubhead small with virtually no feel whatsoever. Still, I can see me once or twice a month moving up a tee and whacking that baby around the course. Now, if I can just find the guy to whom I sold those ping eye 2 clubs. New shafts and who knows? Beak

Having had both, my preference is an albatross. I have seen plenty of lucky holes in one, and there probably are lucky albatrosses, but at least one shot of an albatross has to be pretty good.

I carried until I was 50. Then for ten years I pushed. Now for the last seven I use a remote control motorized cart. I have converted a lot of the older guys I play with, all except the cheap ones that is. My wife uses a motorized cart that follows her. Not ready to go there yet. Have fun pushing.

I also look at the ball except for short putts when I look at the hole. No need to come up out of a long putt from longer range but so many people come up on the shorter ones and tend to miss then. I also change from a standard putting grip to reverse overlap in close. I have never tried looking at the putter. Not sure how that would affect distance control. Since you look at the ball for long swings it would seem to help consistency to do the same for putting.

For the past few years I used my 58. However, this year I have attempted to divide yardages up among my three Vokey wedges and my putter from 10 - 70 yards. From 70 yards and longer, I use full swings, choking up for intermediate yardage. It is a work in progress but my short game is improving. I think Tom Kite was the first person to catalog different swing lengths with different wedges to dial in his short game. My short game is slowly improving.

Howdy Since 1981. I normally shoot in the 70's with an occasional foray into the low 80's. Being outside and attempting to master more shots. Equipment reviews and general golf news. I get most of my clubs from the Callaway pre-owned site. Currently Epic woods and Steelhead irons. Vokey wedges. Phoenix area, live in a retired community. Best thing is ability to walk in the winter. Golf all year. There are no bad things about golf in AZ other than the expense in the winter during the snowbird season. NOTHING! Retired Beak was my call sign in the Marines. Bryce was a 3d computer program I learned while teaching computers.

I still have my original Big Bertha driver circa 1994 or so. I should try it out. I sold my Ping red dots in 2005. I am pretty sure the Pings would benefit from new shafts. I should call the guy I sold them to and see if he still has them. Fun clubs.

I live in Arizona so we walk in the winter and ride in the summer and this is still our plan going forward. While I guess you could walk when it's 115, it might just take some of the fun out of play. Just saying.

Maybe the USGA should first start out by saying what the ideal length of a golf course should be. They haven’t even delved into that process. Haven't mentioned it, talked about it, no indication whatsoever. I agree, grow the grass and so much more. The USGA is talking about returning the decision process to the game. So, not only grow the grass, but insert pot bunkers as they have in the U.K. How about a meandering creek. It doesn't even need water in it or be very wide, just high banks and stones. How about grass bunkers that never get mowed? How about just one tree strategically placed. If they are worried about costs, how about no grass from the "Championship tee" to say 40 yards in front of the most forward tee. The problem is the USGA and course designers have deemed the only solution is to make the courses longer rather than quit being lazy and actually design a bloody golf course. You can't tell me that you want to play the holes strategically and then add no hazards other than distance. Augusta is threatening to lengthen #13 and yet last year there were a bunch of balls in the little creek that fronts the hole and/or balls to the back or over the green avoiding the creek. All they need is one freaking tall bushy tree 10-20 yards right of the creek at the dogleg, or 2-3 pot bunkers strategically placed, or slant the fairway more towards the creek. If they roll the ball back, how hard are #11 and #12 at Augusta going to get? The US Open setup is another prime example. Does it seem to you the USGA loses their collective panties if the score breaches 10 under? The USGA says a hard and fast course will reveal the best golfer. WHAT? Uh, maybe a wet and sloppy course with long grass and lots of obstacles reveals the best golfer. Just saying. They have caused their own problem. The Brits are so much better. If there is gorgeous weather and the score gets run up, so what? There will be weather next year bubba, count on it. I can't imagine the run on premium golf balls if they enact a golf ball rule limiting potential. Let me ask this, if they roll the ball back 20% and an amateur hits the ball 220 now, the rollback drive is now 176, what 6000 yard course has tees that would regularly accommodate that driver yardage? It's absurd. Even a 10% rollback would be a problem because every par 4 over 400 yards would virtually require new tees and then the hazards aren’t in the right spot. And instead of citing some British yardage for amateurs that is really suspect, how about digesting the thousands of shots recorded by Shotlink. This doesn’t solve the problem of course conditions and weather although the outliers could be thrown out, but at least holes where less than a driver is hit off the tee would not be counted in driver yardage. This whole hoopla reminds me of the NRA thing, I’m 67. They can pry my PRO V1 and Epic driver from my cold dead hands and until then, leave me alone. BTW, how much was that MAVRIK?

Get around slow play at my home course by being first or second off in the winter or playing in the afternoon when it is 105 in the summer... It's really fast in the summer. I am not bothered by the pros and slow time. I DVR golf and watch in 2x most of the time. This cuts out the annoying announcers and it is kinda fun to watch the players "Charlie Chaplin" around the course. Course now that Azinger has a permanent gig, may have to watch at a slower pace once in awhile.