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About BMart519

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    Calgary, AB
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  1. The algorithm fit me into an M5 which was useless for me during demos, the G410 was the 2nd choice which performed well. But I found the F9 performed similar or marginally better, at $200-$300 less I couldn't justify the G410 just because I wanted to match my irons. I would only use TrueGolf fit to identify clubs to demo, which wont really work for OP with the Tour Edge product.
  2. I found the milling to be too aggressive on the course, it seemed like I needed to hit the ball harder than most insert putters on long lag putts (50'+). I do play courses with slow to average speed greens, so that likely didn't help. But the main advantage of milled putters is more consistent and firmer feel than inserts which I found lacking. I did limited testing with a Cleveland HB SOFT and preferred the firmer feel of that head/milling pattern. I believe the grooves provide more lift on the ball as well, the putters come stock with 1 or 2 degrees of loft. I had the loft adjusted up to match most other putters in the 3-4 degree range and the ball appeared to be bouncing off the face and distance control became a challenge. It was a hard decision to sell the only putter I made eagle with but I never felt truly comfortable (didn't like the alignment line and dots) with it and the Shot Scope stats didn't support it.
  3. Go demo a bunch of clubs on a monitor or go for a fitting, preferably with the ability to hit different stiffness of shafts in the same heads so you can learn the difference for your swing. Irons are precision clubs to fill the gaps between woods/hybrids and wedges. Pick the ones which give you the best dispersion. The only other numbers which need much attention are peak height/descent angle and backspin to determine if they should hold greens. For most people, shaft weight is more important than the flex.
  4. I only did some basic reading on the topic, but there seemed to be some disconnect with how well HRV ties into REM and the other 2 sleep phases.
  5. His twitter is an excellent resource, his targets for Squat, Deadlift, and Bench Press as a % of body weight are helpful goals for any training plan. I did get his free FFG sample workout and saw a lot of overlap in the mobility and power areas with programs I received from a personal trainer in 2019 after a TPI screening. I found a basic 5x5 compound lift strength program (2 gym sessions per week) to cover the strength aspects I was missing after deciding against signing up to the FFG program. The target for the start of golf season is to have Deadlifts over 300 lbs, Squats around 225, and Bench Press around 170. I have not been able to get my SuperSpeed sticks out of the garage for quite a while with the weather up in Canada, but seem to be gaining ball speed from the strength training as I have also dropped most of the power work (med ball throws/jumps). Last round of simulator golf had ball speed of 140 mph with a 17* hybrid on 3 occasions.
  6. Golf My Way - Jack Nicklaus Decided to pick it up after finding success with a few elements from Jack's swing - playing ball farther forward, rolling/lifting left foot on backswing, upright swing plane, etc. He makes it clear his preference is to play a fade which ties into a lot of the mechanics discussed in the book. So probably less useful for people who draw the ball.
  7. General feedback on sleep tracking devices seems to be that wearables are generally less accurate than a device specifically made for sleep tracking that is set under the pillow or mattress. Great detail @edingc! Definitely providing valuable information that is difficult to pull from the podcasts or quick summary reviews online.
  8. With your clubhead speed and positive angle of attack, I dont think you have anything to worry about in terms of losing distance. As other have mentioned, the sub zero will help to keep your heel strikes more manageable with lower spin. The only downside to the subzero model is if you start hitting high toe misses and the spin is so low that it causes knuckle balls that tend to hook and drop quickly. I experienced this demoing a non sub zero draw version of the Epic Flash. The moral of the story is focus on good contact since the numbers you have provided indicate you will get strong performance from the Mavrik SZ.
  9. There are also a lot of shafts that are butt trim only, so it might be a manufacturer's spec vs. advice.
  10. I recommend demo'ing some new clubs if possible prior to the fitting to help eliminate a few models which don't work for you if you are considering irons from multiple categories. (GI and SGI, etc.) It could be difficult to hit 6-10 different irons and then progress through shaft fitting and length/lie in one session, especially coming off surgery. You should consider the amount of physical rehab your knee will require. This will lead to increasing club speed over the next year or 2 depending on the severity of the injury and surgery. Combine that with the potential to drop 15 shots off your handicap through lessons and practice - and it will increase the chance of this year's "fit" becoming outdated relatively quickly (2 years). I returned to the game in my mid 20s at which point I would have been in a 30-40 handicap range and purchased a GI set that went on sale at a big box store after I hit them well during a demo. I eventually got fit for irons when I approached a 15 handicap after 3-4 years of playing 15+ rounds, 10-20 practice sessions, and 1-3 lessons per year. Over this time, I read tons of material online about clubs, shafts, balls, fitting information, and completed static fittings using the PING online tool as well as in stores. Without that knowledge I feel it would be more likely to be pushed toward a certain club by a fitter or not be able to identify a bad fitter versus an OK or good one. Do you know what good spin rates, peak heights, and descent angles are for an iron set? This experience allowed me to self-fit a driver using launch monitors while demoing clubs at big box stores and eventually buy the fit driver from an end of season sale which saved me $400-500 compared to a friend who went to a fitter and bought a full price "custom fit" driver (1/4" short, no up-charge shaft). Your play will improve faster through buying a used set and putting the difference towards 1-2 years of lessons and even faster if you get some workout routines on strength and speed training. BUT - If you can afford both fit clubs and lessons, go for it. (And potentially another set of fit clubs in 2-3 years...)
  11. I've got a 56 RTX 2.0 CB and picked up a 60 Glide 2.0 for more loft and less bounce on touchy shots green side. Loving the Glide 2.0 SS grind so far, could be a discount option to Glide 3.0 if price is a consideration. I don't use it out of the sand, but do usually play it slightly open and am not missing the high toe area from the Eye 2 profile.
  12. BMart519

    Your ball?

    Had a good stretch with the Srixon Z-Star I picked up on a 2 for 1 sale early last season at Golf Town. Decided to try the Z-Star XV after the MGS ball test which I found very similar, maybe a bit longer. Got a few used Bridgestone Tour B X at the end of the year which seemed longer than the XV due to lower spin as they also seemed to roll out more on greens. More testing is needed on my home course to confirm. Just to make matters more complicated, I shot my best ever round in Florida this winter with a Tour B RX and some older generation RX-330 mixed in.
  13. As you mentioned above, a 160 yard 6 iron will be less offline if the club is delivered the same way as a 6 iron that travels 180 yards. This point of view is only relevant from the tee - the guy who hits it 350 can hit it further into trouble than they guy that hits is 200... However, Mark Broadie's work on Strokes Gained off the tee shows that amateurs save about 0.3 strokes/hole for every 20 yards longer they are off the tee. And this is more of a benefit for amateurs than pros. If you have a 10 MPH difference in swing speed, that means from any approach distance into the green you hit 1-2 clubs less which will increase backspin. The corresponding improvement in spin loft will reduce side to side dispersion if the club face is open/closed then same amount in degrees. (If you change your 160 yard 6 iron into a 160 yard 8 iron, the 8 iron will be more accurate all other things equal, not too mention the ease of handling a shorter club). If you read any of Adam Young's work, he has some interesting opinions on trying to manipulate the club face by 1 or 2 degrees or any other miniscule adjustments. For people with no
  14. I use techniques from Sieckman's book and have been able to get 2000+ rpm of backspin using my 60* wedge on 20 yard shots on an indoor simulator... Perfect lie is a big help, but they are generic balls which I assume are equivalent to 1 piece range balls since some have cracked open. Between the height on a 60* and that level of backspin the ball stops quick based on indoor testing... Would the gains in spin using a urethane tour ball offset having grass between the club face and ball when hitting out of the rough? I'm not smart enough or experienced to answer that question.
  15. One of 4w, driving iron, or 1hy if I'm really feeling like making some bad decisions.
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