release

I'm out of the current equipment loop for quite a few years now, so, what's out there suitable for a low swing spped to fit with the 3 wood. I know, get him on the L/M ..... but he is stubborn of watching his budget, for that matter, nothing expensive. He had success with R flex shaft (untipped) in the 3 wood in the past, old school Aldila NVS 65. It had been his go to club for many years. He is short in stature ( 5'4" ? ) senior ( over 65 not quite 70 ). He used to carry his driver over 230 years, right now about 190 carry. I was thinking of shortening the length from 43" to maybe 41"-41 1/2". What's currently out there that has soft tip and not breaking the bank ? Keep in mind that he is on fixed income and budget minded, that could be the number one concern. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

If nothing changes. Try a slightly longer shaft length. Fine tuning with the added length to arrive at the final total length and might need to change the shaft flex a bit. I'd start with adding 1" first. The correct way is to play with your grip and alignment as mentioned, but it'll take some time, other than to play a longer driver which is a quicker band aide fix. Like all the sticks in the bag, we're looking for a more consistent/reliable performance. Some prefer a draw pattern and some prefer a fade. Most the longer hitters will prefer a fade pattern, e.g. Jack Nicklaus, Ben Hogan..........

Have not seen thick wall in the tips like that for awhile now, this will have no issue to turn from 0.370 to 0.355 in the tip for shaving off 1/8" -1/2". Need a caliper to measure the result of turning for less need to dry fitting so often during the process. The difficult part is to keep the turning inline with the original angle. Hand turning might tilt the angle slightly. Adhere to the saying of "measure twice and cut once" , The way you're doing might take more time but decreased the chance of messing up. Sometime ago I had the motive of making something like a pencil sharpening to shave the tip, engineered for reducing the tip of the graphite shaft from 0.370-0.355. In theory, it would only take a few turn to accomplish this goal. However, the cost of design and construction of such device would over run the return from practical commercial application. The potential market for such shaving device is not large enough to support manufacturing it.

I don't look for used golf clubs less than 20 years vintage. One, the "new" model comes out once or several times a calendar year. and the previous NOS will drop at least 50-60% with OEM warranty. Secondly, they will not last , even with proper care, because of the new multilevel material construction. Same theory as in the construction industry material; where they claim the reconstructed 2x4, glued together with resin will be stronger than the one piece lumber.... what about decades down the road ? Glue does not expand nor contract in unison with the pieces of natural wood it held together. That alone will cause issue besides the aging of the resin over the years. I guess it'll be okay if one doesn't expect the new $600 driver ( upward to close to $1,000)to last beyond a few seasons. and accept the disposable principle. I talked to many golfers, and some of them trade in their equipment often, simply because they don't expect it to last. I will be surprised if some of these glued together equipment would maintain their originally designed structural integrity after years of use. You see the golf clubs made with persimmon , steel still around after a century and could be used on the golf course but, not with the modern equipment. Not with the current design. If I'm lucky, I would see new material being introduced into making golf club ( shafts first , then the heads ), however, more realistically, the one piece golf ball should surface before a new mono material shaft.

In my case, I had been carrying my golf bag from a single sling to double crossed shoulder bag. In the earlier days, there were no light weigh bags and no built in bag stand. I remembered I had to buy an attachment bag stand for my golf bag. Anyhow, the reason I had switched to my first push cart was the ease of operation than the pull cart. Mostly because of the shoulders were sore and my back was hurting after carrying the golf bag on the golf course. I remembered the year I just turned 43. There are more options for the push cart on the market today than back then which had only two major players in the market place, namely, the SunMountain and the Bolfboy. If I were to shop all over again, I would consider several factors. What type of terrain the push cart has to endure. the total weight of the cart ( have to lift it onto and out of the back of my transportation twice , once at home and once at the golf course ). The transporting size is a major consideration and the durability since I'd be expecting to keep it for many years. Finally the price, I'm a miser on everything. My current push cart was a ClicGear 3 which I bought years ago with the Holiday promotion. Except it was a bit heavier than other makes, I had no complain. I guess there is a tossup between the total weight and the material it is constructed with for durability. Some other makes have a better roll ( with ball bearings in the wheel hub and air inflated tires ), but they have a higher maintenance history. My eyes are on the ones powered by lithium battery and will follow me like my dog on the golf course. My wife knows that and she probably will surprise me someday with it.

Thinking back, the opening of the tip was filled with light colored epoxy which I had to drill out, then, after the epoxy was removed the two pieces came loose , went down the shaft, rattles when shaking the shaft. Guessing the pieces were inserted from the grip end and tap in tight above the hosel ? This assumption made it more confusing. Is there anyone who knows how these were inserted originally ? I had tried to "put them back " through the tip end. Wrap the solid piece inside the clear plastic tube and it was too large to go back inside from the tip end. Hence the guess of the driection of insertion from the grip end.

So, this is like the wooden dowel insertion in the tip of steel shaft ? I had encountered similar insertion from OEM woods, Titleist, T.E. Taylor Made but they were like 1/4"-3/4". This is more than twice the length. The shaft is a Diamana Illima 80 x5ct flex X, the player must wanted a stiffer tip feel. I hope this was not the only thing they did during the SST Pure.

One is solid plastic rod over 1 1/2"( epoxy ? ) and one is a clear plastic sleeve over 1" that came out of the tip of a pulled shaft. Pulled a shaft, SST Pured from a fairway wood to be used in another fairway wood. Have no idea why this was in the tip that had to be drilled out and removed through the large end ( butt ). The solid rod weight's 0.9 gm. and the plastic sleeve weights 0.3 gm. = 1.2 gm. which does not mean a bunch for swing weight alteration. This probably had been discussed in the past but I still didn't get it. Why this plastic rod and sleeve in the tip ? Isn't it true that we shouldn't insert anythin that will go higher than the top of the hosel to prevent shaft failure ? Could it be to dampen the vibration / shock wave from the impact ? Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

No OEM carry replacement decal. However if you search Odyssey 2 Ball Putter - Weatherproof Replacement Decals; there are quite a few sources. For the age of the putter, it'll be functional if you prep the surface and paint over it. Personally, I would not spend more money for cosmetic reason. Only if that's the putter you will use for the next 10 years.

Exactly !

Beauty ! Imagine bagging these off the first tee with persimmon woods and a heel shafted putter.

My better half just picked up golf after kids are done with higher education and now the retirement is not that far away. I had started her with clubs designated for women. Ping and TaylorMade. And also Callaway senior irons. surprisingly, her best was with MacGregor Mid 2 irons with men's regular graphite shaft. The Mid 2 has less offset in the hosel, thinner topline and the regular graphite in patterned triple flex is stiffer than the L or the A flex in other irons. She just started last month on the driving range. I had her hitting 8 iron from a very short rubber tee off the mat ( 1/4" off the top of the mat ). So far so good, her 8 iron average carrying 100 yards. Which is very good for a petite female. I will graduate her to hitting off the mat next month and then move on to the other irons in the bag before going to the longer clubs . Hopefully, by the end of this Summer, she'd be fine playing the par-3 and the executive courses. My point is, never know until someone actually hit the different set up to know which one will be the favorite and also the one produces the best result. with your wife's pregnancy, the newborn on the way.... she won't be able to dedicate much time to golf right away. As for swinging the golf club..... many LPGA and armature golfers played through their pregnancy. It should not be an issue but, always check with her Doctor first and as always the first and the last trimesters should be resting more. I would not be worried whether the golf clubs would "fit" her ( obviously the X flex from your old club will not work ). You can stick a regular flex graphite shaft in to fill the temporary need. Swinging a driver during pregnancy is probably not a smart move. She could definitely walk with you on the golf course. While keeping social distancing, take a cart just so that she could ride when she's tired. You'll need to be in your best form of being a husband during the time she's having the ups and downs from hormone changes during the pregnancy. Congratulation and embrace all that's coming your way.

Our State had approved of no facemask required in open air . Actually learned this last week while walking out from our local driving range. Someone yield at us " no face mask in open air, I'm so happy ...." We continue to wear face mask whenever we're with other people like the driving range and shopping for food. For I have know personally, quite a few tested positive for COVID-19 after full vaccination. We know the virus will still be around, But in those cases, they went to get tested for the infection because, they were having symptoms of the infection or were not feeling well. Who wants to have the test stick stick up the nostril far enough to make tears come down if one didn't feel the need for the testing ? We're back to the driving range and rounds on the local golf courses , still being cautious.

I had been there in his shoes with obligation and prioritizing, of what's important in life. Trust me, cost of golf equipment, as much as they are these days, is nothing comparing to the green fees and other expenses associated with golfing even for just once a week. His kids will grow up fast enough. By the time he turned around, they'll be 18 and out of the house either to higher education or started working. I had never regret the choice I had made.

Thank you Jim. Exactly what I was looking for. Better to confirm with someone who knows what he is doing than trying to figure it out and possibly cause damage. I don't carry error and omission insurance to cover the accidental breakage.

I was going to suggest that ! One of our local shop has all kinds of ferrules. That would be the go to place if I only need a couple of specialized ferrule, or just different size or colors. Save on shipping ( rising gasoline price offset that ).

If you're going to invest in a vice, get one with minimum 6" jaw, the swivels , not that much an upgrade from the 4" and will be easier on the shaft. Also check out the Harbor Freight for pricing you could have the vice, hooked blades, mini torch and a digital caliper for about the same total as getting just a vice elsewhere.

Hi Jim, Thanks for the reply and the link. I had seen that one as I subscribed to your YouTube. The question is not how to build one, the issue lies of how to extract the broken shaft and the "bullet" tip weight without risking any damage to the injected "speed form" in the cavity of the head. Polyurethane does not like heat, even with care of heating up the hosel, the heat will transfer ( by conduction ) from the hosel to the head even long after the source of heat is terminated. I understand the removal of the bullet tip weight needs lots of heat, and more heat, plus perhaps banging the hosel on a 2x4 to shake the weight loose. Normal shaft extraction will not worry me that much, but to heat overtime for the tip weight is the part that worried me. Any idea ? I still wish to know the answer. However, TaylorMade had just responded and they will repair the shaft under warranty, even the damage was caused accidentally during the play. Still curious of dealing with the speed form in the head cavity.

The effective loft and the swing path really dictate most of the spin produced. Besides the foremost element of the loft angle on the driver itself. I used to use a low lofted driver, can produce mid spin rate at a high launch angle. Mind you, they didn't have the sophisticated launch monitor like these days, not back in the 70's and the 80's. So take this as it may without a scientific statistic to back it up. If one does not have the time nor the patience to fine tune the equipment and the mechanics of golf swing, and wanted an instant solution. Not much choice but to get on the modern launch monitor or take the long road of trial and error. Seeking the holy grail in golf equipment is part of the game. Might as well enjoy the journey because even if one thinks the measured specs are all complete. We often ignored the one constantly changing element, the golfer's physical well being. Golf is a game measured by small fractions of mistakes, and variables. The industry is counting on those seeking perfection .

I would like to have the members to share their actual experience and insight for re-shafting the P-970 irons. One of the guys broke his 5 iron trying to imitate Tiger hitting from under a tree. I had never re-shafted one of these in the past and upon research it tapered to need 0.355 for replacing TTDG X-100. There is the unfamiliar injection of polyurethane in the cavity of the head, plus there might be the "bullet" tip weight in the hosel which will require a lot of heat to have it removed. Right away, sorting out the polyurethane does not like a lot of heat, but the tip weight might require a lot of heat to be removed. I had dealt with other stuff in the past but not with an iron which has face injection of poly urethane in the cavity. I had advised the guy to send it back to TM since they might have a replacement head handy if they damage the head during the process of removing the broken shaft and the tip weight. However, the long waiting time to get this done and the cost involved with OEM charges plus the shipping cost made him to think twice. Unfortunately, since it was not a manufacturer's defect, he might have to pay for the re-shafting even the set is fairly new ( like within months of delivering directly from the OEM ). Especially a shout out to Jim at McGolf. I know all the basic of applying cooling gel, or wet towel to the head while heating up the hosel to extract the broken shaft but, unfamiliar with the extra heat required for removing the bullet tip weight, while dealing with the injected polyurethane in the head cavity. . Someone had recommended submerging the head in a shallow pool of water while heating up the hosel...... that sounds interesting but, I had never used that method personally. Any advise from actual experience will be greatly appreciated. Welcome tips on what Not to do . Thanks.

Blame it on the conforming committee. While trying to keep the game's integrity, oftentimes it also stepped on the "tradition". The old type of grip with the reminder had a prominent reminding line. Most if not all of them came with the grip of corded texture. Very difficult to install if someone requested more than a couple of extra layers of built up tapes. As a newbie, I had ruined several of the grips because it was so difficult to deal with built up and cords with the reminder to be aligned at the same time.

I can tell you this, some of the counterfeits are so good, even the OEM will have issue identifying it 100% if not using the hidden id marks on some of the high end models. Most of the components are manufactured overseas, in multiple locations, out of contractors and their sub. There is no way of stopping a few trying to profit from their encounter with their OEM contract. In fashion industry, the OEM limit the fabric to the contractor to minimize the "leftover". In golf industry, it's easy to source out the material of manufacturing and run their production line overtime. Who would not be tempted selling something for thousands times of profits ? Without all the costs in R&D and Marketing ?

the lonest club in the photo and several others with the end cap not straight, could be (1) the camera angle. (2) could also be pushed too hard on one side. If the end feels solid , then it's just cosmetic issue, no worry now. I fell into the air installation at the beginning to save grips because I didn't want to change grips on the sets of clubs I have and not playing them year round. Then discovered the endless adjustment I could do on the grips. Sort of never returning back to the old ways unless someone requested to install the grips with the tape and solvent for their peace of mind. If the

Use the painter's tape which will give some help slipping the grip on. Use short busts of air set at higher PSI . steady stream of air never worked well for me. especially removing old grip installed with double sided tapes. BTW, the air install does not work smoothly with grips constructed of, multi material , or a grip with a sleeve ( WINN ). The multi material construction will not expend the grip uniformly. So is the grip constructed with sleeve and wrap. Takes a little practice and there is no issue of installing with air on any type of grip. Make sure you have a compressor which could power the air tools. Much easier if you have more pressure available when needed. Plus the right compressor could be used to power cut-off wheels to trim the shafts.