Bobbers

I'm not as short as your wife but I swing slowly. Tried the first generation Cobra one length irons and they didn't do a darned thing for me. I abandoned them. Sold them actually, often I'll "retire" a set of irons with the thought that they may speak to me in the future. If it were me I might look at test driving something like the Cleveland Launcher XL Halo clubs.

I've collected, for lack of a better term, a set of these, 8,9,P, G, SW in senior (F2) flex graphite shafts (last year's model, not the full face grooves of this year) as I've got the same issues with age and swing speed. IF the rain holds off tomorrow morning I might actually have a chance to get them on the course. I'm one who doesn't care a bit what anyone might think/say about what's in my bag, if it works it stays, if it doesn't it goes into the hall of fails. Most of what I've read/watched suggests they're pretty easy to hit, get good elevation and their biggest drawback is the "stigma" of appearance. Seems in the UK there's a company which I believe is called Eleven that offers a full set of hybrid irons which look as or more in this vein than the Cleveland Halos.

I have and I like what I still think of as the SIK face.

There's a golf show in town this weekend. Met up with a few guys and wandered around. Snagged a dozen Chromesoft X LS (yellow of course) for $39, a dozen Wilson Staff (yellow again) for $20 and after many years of thinking about it but not acting, a new pair of Ecco M Biom G5 shoes for $119. I'm happy all around.

I wish you a full and speedy recovery. I'm a few years older and my left hip has been sending nasty signals the past few months so I can empathize with the pain and movement issues. All the best.

Back in the early 60's all I had to play with were my mother's old clubs. Didn't matter that I was left handed, right handed clubs were all I had. I write, eat, bowl, bat, and throw left handed. I golf right handed. Oddly enough I'm right eye dominant to boot. In short I'm what you'd have to call dominance confused. My only comfort lies in the idea that if (when?) I finally have a stroke that some level of function in some area might still exist. By the way? I cannot, for the life of me, play a game of softball and golf on the same day, my limited coordination is such that whatever I'd do first messes up whatever I'd try to do second. The good news is that I'm now in my 70's so there's not much softball left to be played. Some, just not much.

I appreciate you and RoverRick chiming in. I'll keep my hands off. Thanks for keeping me on the straight and narrow.

I may pull the original shaft so I can get a weight measurement. The Accra, untrimmed, is 132 grams. Given the typical weight of steel putter shafts I'd expect it to be closer than close to the weight of the graphite. I guess we'll find out.

I've got a DF 2.1 on the way. It has the stock steel shaft. I've got an Accra putter shaft just looking for a place to land. How would those of you who tinker suggest as the best way to remove the old shaft? Yes, I've got micro torches, a heat gun, etc. Just looking at the best way to get the old one out without any damage/discoloration to the head itself. Thanks in advance.

A list of wedges too long to list. Mizuno, Scratch, Taylormade, etc., etc. Having better luck with the CBX wedges which seem to be about as idiot proof (me being the idiot) as I've been able to find.

Can I assume that you're interested in circumference of each grip? If so I've got a sinkfit on a putter I can measure and probably have some sort of Superstroke around here somewhere I can measure as well.

If it were me (and I know it's not...) I'd focus on actual performance on the course and not get too distracted with the supposed "specs" of the clubs involved. If your approach shot doesn't have the proper descent angle that's the issue regardless of whether the manufacturer says it's a 27, 28, 29, or 30 degree loft on the club. Offset, CG, etc. all also factor into how a particular iron is going to perform as well. Ball position, the amount of shaft lean your stroke imparts, heck even the ball you're using are all part of the performance equation. Any reason you can't have one of your clubs loft adjusted by a degree or two to see what impact that has? I'm sure PXG would be quick to tell you how much, if at all, your set of irons could be adjusted. Good luck with your experimentation.

A group of friends head up to the Island Resort and Casino in Harris, MI, in the UP early every July. We play Sweetgrass at the resort the first afternoon, head over to Iron Mountain to play Timberstone the second day, head up to Marquette to play Greywalls the third day, cap it off with another round at Sweetgrass the final morning and are home for dinner. The nicest part? Four rounds of golf, three nights in the hotel and the total cost is around $525 per player based on double occupancy. It's almost like they're paying us to golf... As to golf in Wisconsin? Season is generally April to early December. Several courses have been open this week due to a very mild stretch of weather; it's been in the 50's for a high for several days. Herb Kohler has given us Blackwolf Run, the Irish Course, Whistling Straights, etc. We have Erin Hills. Mid-state we have Sand Valley. Like anywhere else there are a lot of "hidden gems" as well. Mascoutin, Old Hickory, Lawsonia, the Bull, Hawks View, Morningstar, the list goes on. The Greater Milwaukee Open used to be played at Brown Deer, a public course in the Milwaukee area. For $50 one can buy a discount coupon book from Midwest Golfing magazine. Includes several free rounds or "pay for cart only". For another $50 the "Wisconsin Golf Classic" offers you a choice of 10 courses from participating venues that offer "2 for 1" or a free round if you pay for a cart, etc. In short Wisconsin has a LOT of golfers, a LOT of great courses, and remains a very affordable destination where you can play your brains out, enjoy a choice of great beers, good food, and friendly folks. No, I don't work for the tourism department in either Wisconsin or the UP of Michigan...

My belief is that trade-in values are always very low compared to the resale value of any particular club. Not sure that Miura is significantly worse outside the fact that they're not a "household name" the way US brands are. Perhaps bite the bullet and sell them yourself on ebay or facebook marketplace? Yes it's more work but could net you 3-4 times what you were offered. Heck, the shafts are likely worth more than you were offered for the set of clubs.

Looking forward to seeing your reviews and results, testers. Enjoy the experience.

Got mine ordered. I'll be interested, assuming they're going to have the MGS patch, how many people recognize it and comment on it. Could be a good ice breaker. Thanks for organizing this. The best news is that I'm old enough to forget what I just did so I'll be delighted when I open the package in May and say, "Hey! I forgot all about these!"

I ordered the wrap around "strap/magnet" suggested earlier in the thread. If that isn't the answer this certainly would be. Thanks for taking the time to reply, I appreciate it.

Thoroughly enjoyable, thoughtful, useful, and entertaining thread. Thanks to everyone who contributed. One wonders if they offer a discount on returned shafts, like a 1 or 2 dot model.

I lucked in to a LAB Link.1 that plays at a bit over 33", stock steel shaft. It's still winter here in Wisconsin so working on my clubs and speculating, along with reading here, are my pastimes until things warm up and green up a bit. My thoughts have turned to perhaps adding a KBS GPS shaft, leaving it over length and adding one of the longer length Garsen non-tapered grips. I'm envisioning a variation on the over length Jailbird putters that seem to be working for a lot of people with the added technological advantages of the LAB putters. I look forward to your comments, pro or con. And mods if this needs to be in a different location please feel free to relocate it, I wasn't sure where it would best fit the forum.

Give 'em hell, guys. Looking forward to your results particularly given the nice wide range of handicaps. Have fun!

Thank you!!!

The darned thing doesn't have a magnet to attach it to the cart. My question is whether anyone has come up with a good way to add some sort of magnet to one of these that they're happy with from a functional perspective? I'm not horribly concerned with looks, I just want to have it handy and not bouncing around in the front compartment of the cart. Thanks in advance for any guidance/experiences you can share.

I'm in, thanks for the opportunity.

I don't play my wedges, my wedges play me. Probably the worst part of my game after my atrocious driving distance. I'm using Cleveland CBX wedges in 54 and 58 degree lofts. And I have one of those Callaway 'Sure Out' 56 degree sand wedges with the totally huge bottom flange. Even with that the guys I golf with realize that no one, and I mean no one, is safe in any location when I'm about to have a spasm shot from a bunker. Nothing about my wedge game is "pretty", not pretty at all.

I'd be curious, and learn quite a bit if I could answer one question. Do the guys on tour, any tour, that have ball deals with Titleist, Taylormade, Bridgestone, etc., outside of monograms, the number on the balls, have those golf balls hand sorted or specially selected before the balls are delivered? Or when Xander needs golf balls does he have someone call and say "Xander needs 20 dozen, white, with his initials, all numbered '8'." And presto, two days later a case of golf balls appears and gets put into play or ??? That would tell me a great deal.