BMart519

What if I told you that neither of those clubs would ever be used for a full swing... It's more about the forces and speed the club is being moved, not the handicap of the player on the end of it. Don't think many players are putting an aggressive transition on shots with their 62.

You need something far more accurate than skytrak (camera) - likely a doppler radar based system to capture full flight. So basically the MGS ball test and Ballnamic... Turns out on course testing is actually the simplest for a recreational golfer.

There is no point to a ball fitting on an indoor sim other than a bit of spin info. You can't assess the flight of the ball from the effect on the cover. Pretty sure the MGS ball lab had all the balls launch between 0.5 degrees (max 1 deg) vertical off the club with a robot.

Are you able to vary some of the parameters to get a few different sets of results? I usually play twilight but occasionally play early on weekends. Would be nice to compare dry conditions vs wet for when dew sweeping. Also spend time between 2 regions with 2000' elevation difference and different turf/humidity.

Do you still game the 56* wedge in your signature? If so, what do you use it for?

Lots of ways to play golf. I watched a guy hit all his irons off a tee almost 1/4" above the ground and not take a single divot. Some of the short par 3's he would be hitting PW or 9i. Can't remember his exact index but it was between 4-6. Adam Young once talked about driver being easier to hit vs other tee clubs since ground contact isn't a concern. One could apply that same logic to any club if you teed it up, regardless of how the club was "designed". If you want to carry the ball farther, teeing it up should help as well as hitting level or up due to dynamic loft especially for slower speed players needing more height. Roll out and total distance are determined by ground conditions, spin and land angle. Spin should also drop hitting level or up on the ball vs down with the same club.

1 - Just off the green, lots of green to work with, fairway lie - putt if able, GW-8 depending on fringe carry vs roll 2 - Just off the green, shortsided, fairway lie - putt if able, 54-GW depending on fringe carry vs roll 3 - Just off the green, lots of green to work with, rough - GW/PW 4- Just off the green, shortsided, rough - LW-AW 5 - Short bunker shot, lots of green - 54 or 58 for firm sand 6 - Short bunker shot, shortsided - 54 or 58 for firm sand 7 - Long bunker shot, lots of green - GW-9 length/lip clearance dependent 8 - Long bunker shot, shortsided - GW-9 length/lip clearance dependent 9 - 15 yards short of the green, average pin accessibility, fairway - 54/GW depending on fringe carry vs roll 10 - 15 yards short of the green, average pin accessibility, rough - 54/GW depending on fringe carry vs roll

7/10 of your first drives resulted in penalties including provisional on 18. Then bunker lip on adjacent hole and good drive to end the day. At least 8/12 drivers hurt you. Time to shelf driver until you can practice to get it playable OR double check width between hazards as per Decade. If you had 65 yards between hazards, you need to expand your driver window to 75 yards wide since penalty areas should only be in your dispersion 5-10% of time OR aim further right since most penalty misses appear to be left and deal with fades when they come up. You should check your Decade targets at least once per hole or twice (tee choice and green aim). Adding notes about layup locations on par 5s is also helpful. This also helps take your mind off blowups and score. Instead of adhering to the Decade principal of hitting tee shot as far as possible/safe, start looking for widest area of fairways and landing areas short of bunkers/water where you can make a full, aggressive swing with no worry or hazards. Consider picking a longest club you will hit on approaches or par 5 layups that is tight with hazards. This is 6i for me when there is water or OB up 1 side of a hole unless easy to play from opposite rough. Hooking a hybrid unplayable or rolling it into the bunkers in front of a green trying to hit into a par 5 from 250 out will probably hurt you more than 6/7i and then partial wedge. Driver can't be part of your tee shot decision tree if it results in 3+ penalties per round. Even if it goes 30 yards past your next club, you still lose strokes overall. Tee the ball up on far left side of every tee box to give you more room to aim right and offset the hook. I have 7 birdies this year , 4 are on par 5s and only 2 of those are with driver. All other 5 are with hybrids on par 4s and 5s as well as an iron on a par 3. There's more than one way to play. If a par 5 is unreachable in 2 hitting driver, there is more opportunity to hit something safer until you can hit driver better. Same thing if driver leaves you 60 yards out on a par 4 and you can't hit a partial wedge because you don't practice them. Yes, you will often hit it closer from 60 yards vs 90. But when 50% of your drivers are OB/unplayable you will have 4-5 less shots from 60 than you do from 90.

Offsets from your resistance training will be another consideration as well.

Opposite for me. Using the stack all winter I experimented with different swing thoughts, tempos, and techniques which seemed to help me improve my sequencing and general pre-shot routine. In 2021, my strokes gained off the tee were that of an 8 Index while I played off 11-13. This winter COVID, vacation, and soft tissue injuries got in the way of the Stack and my driver is a big struggle to start the year.

Everybody has a ceiling in terms of index related to their physical strength/speed, golf skills, and amount of time to play and practice. Many people will never be better than a 14 index. For others that is a 10, 5, etc. Many think lessons will automatically fix them, but don't have the time available to dedicate to the lessons plus all the individual work making those changes which takes thousands of reps.

This is a great idea if you can afford it. I did this with Callaway APEX irons recommended in a fitting, but I wasn't convinced only hitting it off a mat. Getting to try irons off the tee, 3/4 shots off sidehill lies, bump and runs around the green give you a much better feeling of what day to day life will be like with a set. Not to mention seeing how the misses play when you thin one or hit it off the toe.

I bought an EXO putter from them before and the condition always seems better than expected from them. Seeing irons available in "like new" condition for like 65% cheaper than when they were new in Canada is mighty tempting.

It appears I have some decisions to make... $500 for new irons is tempting.

Are there certain times of year that CPO traditionally has good sales? I think it’s time to upgrade to some new old apex 19 irons.

Metal yard stick for putting start line, usually under $5 at a hardware store.

The shaft is not completely parallel to ground in the first photo, but it is close for comparison here. Your club face is 45+ degrees more open at shaft parallel in the downswing compared to takeaway. These large differences are going create inconsistencies. You likely need to do a lot with the hands to square the club face between impact and this second position. Your hands are flying out to throw the club and square the face. If you arms and hands stayed tucked to your body, you would hit the ball extremely far right.

I play a consistent fade off the tee which can exaggerate into a slice. The draw setting on my Cobra F9 helps neutralize it. Have never thought about going back in the 1.5 years since I did it and personally prefer this change compared to moving weights.

I'm rocking Cobra Baffler Rail-H 2, 3, 4, and 5 hybrids circa 2011 ranging from 17 to 25 degrees with no fairway woods. All bought used and very chipped up, only have head covers for half of them. Just bought the 3H this winter because I hit the 2 and 4 so good! Hit the 5H better than my 6 iron. So my irons start at a 7 now plus 4 wedges. Lead tape on putter, driver, all irons and PW/GW. There's also a random "driving iron" with a Ping G700 4 iron head on a 6 iron length AWT 2.0 shaft.

I asked my instructor (who is getting 1 start on the PGA tour this year) how he gets fit for irons. He said he hits them on the course and looks at the trajectory to make sure it is what he wants. Definitely a personal thing!

This is a thread about iron fitting and therefore representing the numbers you will get on course as best as possible. Not about whether you can effectively practice off a mat. I agree you will reduce variables on a mat. But an outdoor practice facility should be damn near flat whether its grass or mat. You shouldn't get fit on sidehill lies

It's well known that mats reduce spin for irons and wedges. The fitter should have some idea as to how much. One of the most impressive things I heard from Ian at TXG on a podcast was testing turf and building a hitting surface to best mimic outdoors in that specific region. The ability to use your own ball indoors can influence spin by 500-1000 rpm and is a larger benefit than what is gained by trialing irons off grass with range balls. Depending on the quality of the range balls, they could severely impact spin numbers. I used to believe outdoor fitting was the only way to go, but many of these locations still have you hitting off a mat outside which is the WORST of both worlds. IMO it's better to reduce variables (like wind and temperature) inside. Especially with the ability of Trackman to give you low point location and depth. Best case would be to start inside, then verify outdoors to check ball flight and turf interaction.

I had a bad start to the season for putting. If you are struggling 5' and in, I recommend doing the clock drill setting up balls at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o clock around the hole at 3 feet. Once you make all of them, reset them at 5 or 6' from the hole. This will get you practice making breaking putts each direction. As you get better, change the clock positions as you change distances to get different putts. For example, on the 3 footers putt from 12, 3, 6, 9 o clock. On 6 footers putt from 1:30, 4:30, 7:30, 10:30. This is my warm up before every round to learn the greens and build some confidence making putts. These come up a lot on course after lag putts and chips from greenside. Then I finish by hitting 20-60' putts for speed or using 1 ball to putt out to a variety of holes on the practice green.

My Stack distance potential is 325 and Shot Scope P AVG with driver of 282 from last half of season. I did hit the most drives over 300 yards ever last year on course, including 8 over 320. I admit most were helped by either downwind, elevation change, firm conditions, and on at least 1 occasion - cart path. 2 weeks ago I hit a drive on GC Quad in neutral conditions (flat, no wind) that crossed 300 yards. It was 2100 rpm back spin at 157 mph ball speed (around 105 club). IMO the potential distance is overstated by 25-30 yards MINIMUM and represents hitting a high launch low spin drive on medium - firm conditions. But, this is due to the fact it is using your swing speed without a ball which is often 6-7 MPH faster than hitting a ball. If I was magically able to hit a ball at 111-112 MPH, I'm sure I would hit a lot of 320 yard drives at 3500 ft elevation in dry conditions. But its impossible for any golfer to match their max swing speed with a ball compared to without which is what Stack measures.

If you have the money to afford the Quad there is no reason to use a less accurate unit that provides less data...