BMart519

12 is very consistent. Mine is 36 with driver at 286/250. I guess I will make it a goal to get that 250 up to 270

What is the rough spread between everyone's AVG distance and P. AVG with irons and full swing wedges? Mine is about 20 yards all the way from GW up to 6 iron. I am going to play around with basing club selection on course using P AVG to back of green as well as taking the distance 1/2 way between P. AVG and AVG to the pin and see if it yields increases in GIR and proximity.

I find Bridgestone covers to be the most resilient of premium balls with extensive tree and cart path testing under my belt. Srixons seem good but have the raised seem appear which puts me off. But I haven't tried Snell or Callaway. I feel the B'stone dimples perform best in the wind (V1 left dot likely best). I just switched from the B XS to the V1X to see if there is a gain in launch and ball speed. My game improvement Ping shovels are low spin, so a mid-high spin ball works best for me. The regular Z Star is notably lower spin on GC Quad which lead to some low hooks on driver which is the miss I can't have as someone aiming for a fade. This crept up with the BX in the past since I deliver driver around 4 deg up and seek to hit it high on the face. I will give the Z Star XV another shot as it worked well in the past and my swing is better than 2-3 years ago when I last played it. I always stray away from the B XS looking for something better (100-105 driver speed, ball speed in the low - mid 150s) and then begin shooting lower scores when I put it back in play. With your speed, the BX makes sense but the only way to decide is play them all multiple rounds and see what you notice. Anecdotally, the Bridgestones and Srixons seemed straighter when I hit it poorly compared to Titleist.

Benefit of strokes gained is that it will separate the bad ball striking out as well as GIR as it relates to short game and putting. Some people have physical constraints on how far they can hit the ball which will limit their ceiling off the tee and slightly on approach. The only limitations to short game and putting is technique, practice, and a lesser extent - equipment. If you want to go old school stat collection, use the tiger 5 from Decade: Count # 3 putts, # 2 chips, penalty shots, bogey or worse on par 5. These are the main errors to minimize. And modifying the last one for skill level: # of times it takes more than 3 shots to get down from inside 90 yards.

Just noticed the clubs in your signature... Your putter is the only club in your bag that isn't new and you don't even know what model it is. Might be time for a fitting or at least trial some different types. Seems like an area that is being overlooked.

I'm going to be Debbie Downer here, but only in hopes of expediting your improvement. - score properly so you can monitor real improvement and it will motivate you further, otherwise your handicap and scores are meaningless. Did you go from 3 to 1 mulligans per round but scores stayed flat? Or did "actual" scoring improve? I used to do the same thing, some days it was 1 mulligan per round others it was 1 per 9 holes. If I played well it was no mulligans. Really helps keep your scoring in a tight band - you didn't putt very well. -7.5 SG putting relative to a 10 means you putted somewhere to the level of a 50 handicap because a 25 HCP loses 2.5 strokes putting compared to a 10 hcp according to Shot Scope. - if you are taking gimme's outside of 2' your SG is even worse because you would miss a decent amount of 3-4 footers at that level of putting. - try to take a putting lesson so the instructor can verify if there are any mechanical issues and if they think your putter is a good match for your stroke. They should be able to identify some drills to help your weaknesses.

The program is long and changes a lot. There is a lot of step work in phases 2 and 3. I am just about into phase 4. You get into 85g and 100g weights for the step work. You are still in the baselining phase of "full" speed swings vs all at max effort.

For driver/full swing: look up the Rope drill by Dr. Kwon on youtube. Similar to the idea of Orange Whip for tempo and transition. I've used an electrical extension cord instead of braided rope that also works. He has a video showing how to make the ropes at home (7' lengths, around 1 lb total weight based on a specific diameter - 3/4" I believe.)

Data entry is easy with the stack app. You speak the swing speed number to your cell phone and it logs it for you after each swing. As another person who used SuperSpeed (built DIY sticks) and own the Stack. I consider the cost as mostly paying for the software - evolving routines (I didn't even know the Cruiser and Flex programs were added), data collection and trending. As well as supporting the research of the creator who is continuing to tweak existing programs and create new ones based on the data from thousands of Stack users as they complete programs. You are essentially being trained with customized programs by the most experienced researcher in golf biomechanics who is a former track and field competitor and +2 handicap. Other than the SuperSpeed C club, I don't think their routines have ever changed or expanded since they were created. I received a call from Sasho and spent 30 minutes on the phone with him one night discussing my results, launch monitors, and potential issues with the software. I doubt you will receive comparable levels of customer service with any other speed training system.

You should pick the irons that give you the smallest dispersion circle on the monitor. The next thing to check is that the rollout (related to spin, height, and landing angle) isn't too far and that carry distance is close front to back. The goal of irons is to land them on the green. The smaller the circle, the easier it should be to aim on the course and keep it on the green. You can select wedges, hybrids, and fairway woods to fill in the distance gaps on either side.

I signed up for a lesson package this winter from an instructor who still plays high level golf - already qualified for the RBC Canadian Open on the PGA tour. Since short game is one of my greatest weaknesses, I asked about his tournament prep, practice routines and general advice for seasonal golfers. (His facility is indoors, not ideal for short game lessons) His feedback was each season begins with additional short game work: hitting a few sand shots so the first ones aren't on the course, getting his feel back for high/low shots and judging runout on chips/pitches and reaction to slopes. I looked at your stats last year and would recommend you consider the same. If you cannot play year round, I would prioritize playing which is among the fastest ways to lower scores and enjoy all the work you have put in. If you are cooped up in the winter it is a great time to prioritize speed training and weights. Get out and enjoy the game and weather! Average driving distance for scratch golfers is around 250 yards including all shots. If you can hit it 270-280 off the tee, distance is no longer the problem if your handicap is above 10. It's quality of contact on full swings (duffs, penalties) and short game holding you back. My distance is similar to yours since I'm at elevation and a bit slower. My SG info has me around 3 HCP off the tee, 10 HCP approach, 15 HCP short game, and 20 HCP putting. My overall handicap is 11.0 right now... I'm working on getting short game and putting closer to a 10HCP as opposed to scratch on full swing to get me into single digits.

Have you been taking any lessons over the winter? It would be interesting to see how your handicap changes with the added speed assuming you can isolate it from major swing changes (ignoring general improvement work indoors). Great work staying committed to this over the winter. I started strong but have really stalled between vacations/injuries and have only been able to maintain speed using the Stack. Now that the weather has broken, I am spending most practice time chipping in the yard until the courses open and green up.

This is great info and agrees with a lot of my observations using it only indoors. I experimented with setting the unit on the ground below the level of my hitting platform and adjusted tee height in the software. It noticeably made AoA more negative. When the unit is level with the surface (including a valley between unit and ball which is not recommended) the AoA number are more in line with what I see on GC Quad where I take lessons. One day I will break down and build a level surface from MEVO+ to ball to see how it improves. With these noticeable errors I have less confidence to invest another $1000 in the pro package to add in more club data that isn't very accurate. This also eliminates the ability to hack the GSPro sim software for use on the unit if I do sell. I don't see much left or right variation with driver (+/- 145 mph ball speed) but my fade shape seems more pronounced. I also feel wedges fly straighter than in reality but mid irons are better as you mention. I have never been able to adjust environmental conditions on the FS Golf range but the E6 range does and seems better for driver. I use the apps strictly on an iPhone as one of the main selling features was iOS compatibility with no subscription fees. The need to enter your login information each time, the fact the unit can never connect to my phone on the first attempt, and other small aspects of the software is very clunky so I have never bothered to even try playing sim golf rounds this winter (I don't intend to putt). If an engineer who works with computers all day can't be bothered with the software, I can't imagine less tech savvy people would enjoy it. Not to mention the battery and charging issues. The GC3 in Canada is ridiculous $$$ and I originally thought the MEVO+ would be a better alternative to Skytrak but I am doubting that now. Going to compare the Skytrak where I take lessons to their GC Quad to verify. For ease of use and setup time I still default to my voice caddie SC200 to capture swing speed info when training with the Stack and also measuring ball speed as a proxy for strike quality with a given club. I know it is less accurate with estimated spin but I get 20-50% estimated spin reads on MEVO anyway and the SC200 does a temperature and pressure calibration for elevation at startup.

Looks like its not that forgiving if Tiger can't even keep it in play

The line is somewhere around the surgeries that would allow Tiger to continue his pursuit of majors on the LPGA tour. And with that, the moderators can go ahead and close this thread down

Some people hit down on the ball with a negative angle of attack that creates more spin than someone who is a picker and delivers the club neutral. There could be a large difference to your game depending on your club delivery and equipment. The biggest difference will usually be seen around the green where bump and run is your main option without a premium ball. When I tried Callaway Supersoft ball I noticed a 5-10 yard loss with driver even compared to other non-premium balls like a Bridgestone E6. If cost is the concern, buy AAAA quality used balls (not refurbished) off ebay or one of the many sites that sell them. It is easy to find premium balls for around $2/ball and hard to notice much difference from a new ball. Most of the ball websites have sales often, one just had 20% off plus free shipping with a certain spend. Srixon Z star balls can be had for close to $1/ball used and are a great choice.

I am aware of the difference between toe hang and toe up. I own and have been fit for both styles of putter. My comments above differentiate between the two models.

The generic advice on fitting would say it is easier to close the face of a toe up putter than a toe hang model. Making it easier to shut would promote a pull. But it's all about how the individual responds to the putter. If you hit a bunch of putt with a plumbers neck or other toe hang putter, then immediately switch to a face balanced or toe up putter there is a good chance of hitting some pulls until you adjust.

Unless you have a very aggressive transition or they work best for your timing and delivery, 120g iron shafts are on the heavy side for the swing speed of a 150yd 9 iron (at 3300 ft elevation). My distance is similar with 105g shafts and am in no danger of overpowering them. But I also flip and use GI irons. One easy check on shafts would be to go somewhere that uses the Mizuno shaft optimizer as part of the fitting process. Would then be easy enough to reshaft one of your irons for extended on course testing before committing to reshaft the entire set. Should be able to find a spot in a big city like Denver.

How often are you checking ball flight to complement the technique and net work at home?

At 80 MPH your ball speed will be in the 110's to 120's depending on strike. Use the PING chart below to compare your launch angle to the closest value and get a spin number. Ideally, the launch monitor will also provide your angle of attack to fully optimize for distance. In general, 2300-2700 should be a good range unless you are hitting severely up or down on the ball.

What's your driver loft? Probably needs to be between 5-8 degrees if using a 46-47" length. Especially with something that increases dynamic loft like these shafts.

Bag of nuts and/or jerky I find the easiest to have in small amounts. Protein bars are another common one but chocolate ones can melt and can be a pain if you can't finish them in one time between shots. Bottle of water and usually a gatorade. A few rounds I started to pack a sandwich which was less convenient but I try to avoid hot dogs at the turn whenever possible. I'm 6'2, 200 lbs, so I eat a lot. Often make a large smoothie to drink on the drive to the course if it's around lunch or dinner and I haven't had a meal in a while. Started bringing green tea in a thermos bottle to stay hot occasionally after trying it during a cold weather round early in the morning. Pretty sensitive to caffeine, so a coffee before a round is usually a good way to write off the first couple holes.

I run FS Golf off an iPhone with a sim card, so it always has data connectivity. Still doesn't seem to fix the issue.

I stopped in at DeBoer's in Edmonton when I was in the area. Best fitting experience I have had in Alberta. They built drivers to my specs I was provided from OEM demo days earlier in the season. Miraculously, the 20 yard gains from the demo day evaporated and the Cobra F9 I fit for myself was tied for top performer with the G425 LST. We then worked through other heads and shafts they thought would work for me. If you don't buy anything they only charge $40/hr for trackman time which is also the cheapest I know of in the province. For $40 I plan on going back this year to compare with new releases and get some launch monitor reps in to see if I can gain anything from different balls. They recommended I keep my gamer. When asking if an aftermarket shaft would squeeze anything else out they said "no" as I hit a number of drives within the optimal windows on the Trackman analyzer during my session. My buddy got a full bag fitting at Modern Golf in Calgary and thought it was good. With what I have learned about the effect of range balls on fittings, I don't see a reason to go to Ted and Dave's combined with the inexperienced fitting staff there recently.