RCGolf

The GT3 weight system is now sealed with windows to see the weight setting, so our minor issues with the occasional dirt getting in there is gone.

I think they look great in the photos, but who knows until you actually get them in your hand. I’ve gamed every Titleist driver since the 975D, and after the 905R, I thought the 910 D3 was the coolest looking “new release” I had ever seen (at the time). The TSR3 was a close second. Honestly, I was hoping for something a little more. The GT3 with the forward weights is probably out for me now, but the 2 may be perfect. I have been hearing the whole “Generational” buzz for a few months, so I thought they were going to go way outside the “Titleist box”. Maybe a Matte finish, some carbon on the sole, a duel weighted system on the 3, etc..,I’ll probably still buy one of them, or at least a serious demo.

The GT3 weight system is now sealed with windows to see the weight setting, so our minor issues with the occasional dirt getting in there is gone.

I’ve played glossy drivers and in bright sunny days and never once had glare hit me in the eyes or any other issues with glare from a glossy finish.
Weird to always read comments about this being a concern 

I think some people are mixing up Swingweight and overall weight. Swing weight is using simple physics. If the weight is not in the correct spots, the club will not perform the way it was engineered to perform. Now, a point here and there isn’t as important as some people make it out to be, but I guarantee if you cut your driver down to 43”, and don’t do anything about the drastic change of swing weight, you will not know where the head is during the swing, and you won’t be delivering the correct, or optimal, forces to efficiently hit a golf ball. Grab an iron at C4, and one at D4. I guarantee you’ll hit the iron at D4 more efficiently. There is a reason manufacturers treat it as seriously as they do. 

I think some people are mixing up Swingweight and overall weight. Swing weight is using simple physics. If the weight is not in the correct spots, the club will not perform the way it was engineered to perform. Now, a point here and there isn’t as important as some people make it out to be, but I guarantee if you cut your driver down to 43”, and don’t do anything about the drastic change of swing weight, you will not know where the head is during the swing, and you won’t be delivering the correct, or optimal, forces to efficiently hit a golf ball. Grab an iron at C4, and one at D4. I guarantee you’ll hit the iron at D4 more efficiently. There is a reason manufacturers treat it as seriously as they do. 

I think some people are mixing up Swingweight and overall weight. Swing weight is using simple physics. If the weight is not in the correct spots, the club will not perform the way it was engineered to perform. Now, a point here and there isn’t as important as some people make it out to be, but I guarantee if you cut your driver down to 43”, and don’t do anything about the drastic change of swing weight, you will not know where the head is during the swing, and you won’t be delivering the correct, or optimal, forces to efficiently hit a golf ball. Grab an iron at C4, and one at D4. I guarantee you’ll hit the iron at D4 more efficiently. There is a reason manufacturers treat it as seriously as they do. 

I think some people are mixing up Swingweight and overall weight. Swing weight is using simple physics. If the weight is not in the correct spots, the club will not perform the way it was engineered to perform. Now, a point here and there isn’t as important as some people make it out to be, but I guarantee if you cut your driver down to 43”, and don’t do anything about the drastic change of swing weight, you will not know where the head is during the swing, and you won’t be delivering the correct, or optimal, forces to efficiently hit a golf ball. Grab an iron at C4, and one at D4. I guarantee you’ll hit the iron at D4 more efficiently. There is a reason manufacturers treat it as seriously as they do. 

Nice job! You only need a shaft puller for graphite shafts. If you want to pull your steel shafts, just give it a little heat, the epoxy will loosen up and you can pull it no problem. I use a Benzomatic Chef’s Torch. Little butane torch is a must for a club builder. Also, hosel brushes for your drill help get the old epoxy out of the hosel. Finding a good swing weight scale is a challenging, but well worth it.

I hook the hell out of Hybrids. I love them, love the idea of them, and if you get along with them, by all means, put as many hybrids in the bag as you can! Gapping is everything at the top of your bag (whole bag really)! But, high lofted 5 woods, or a 7-wood is a must try if you hook hybrids, or they just don’t fit your eye. I went 46/52/58 in my wedges, ditched my 21* hybrid and added an 18* and 21* FW and never looked back. 

I hook the hell out of Hybrids. I love them, love the idea of them, and if you get along with them, by all means, put as many hybrids in the bag as you can! Gapping is everything at the top of your bag (whole bag really)! But, high lofted 5 woods, or a 7-wood is a must try if you hook hybrids, or they just don’t fit your eye. I went 46/52/58 in my wedges, ditched my 21* hybrid and added an 18* and 21* FW and never looked back. 

Nice job! You only need a shaft puller for graphite shafts. If you want to pull your steel shafts, just give it a little heat, the epoxy will loosen up and you can pull it no problem. I use a Benzomatic Chef’s Torch. Little butane torch is a must for a club builder. Also, hosel brushes for your drill help get the old epoxy out of the hosel. Finding a good swing weight scale is a challenging, but well worth it.

It has a beauty in its simplicity. Simple and efficient. He may need to slim down a bit. Maybe too much muscle now.

Brooks Koepka
It's not the "prettiest" swing as far as mechanics go, but I'm always impressed with the pure athleticism and control he has over the golf ball. It's like a linebacker with all the feel and touch in the world.

An excellent choice for a light, yet super stable shaft is the Graphite Design Tour AD XC-4 or 5. Handle is soft, but the tip is firm. Just a smooth feeling shaft that knocks some spin off. They can be found for a very reasonable price too. Proclubs.com usually has some.

Paige Spiranic. 🤷🏼‍♂️

Nice job! You only need a shaft puller for graphite shafts. If you want to pull your steel shafts, just give it a little heat, the epoxy will loosen up and you can pull it no problem. I use a Benzomatic Chef’s Torch. Little butane torch is a must for a club builder. Also, hosel brushes for your drill help get the old epoxy out of the hosel. Finding a good swing weight scale is a challenging, but well worth it.

Nice job! You only need a shaft puller for graphite shafts. If you want to pull your steel shafts, just give it a little heat, the epoxy will loosen up and you can pull it no problem. I use a Benzomatic Chef’s Torch. Little butane torch is a must for a club builder. Also, hosel brushes for your drill help get the old epoxy out of the hosel. Finding a good swing weight scale is a challenging, but well worth it.

Cut after. And, when you are installing the shafts, it helps to have a bunch of precut 4” pieces of dry paper towel ready. If you wipe off the excess epoxy right away, you won’t have any clean up, or minimal, at the end. If you use small one use pieces, then you won’t accidentally get wet epoxy everywhere when cleaning the next club. 
 

Cut after. And, when you are installing the shafts, it helps to have a bunch of precut 4” pieces of dry paper towel ready. If you wipe off the excess epoxy right away, you won’t have any clean up, or minimal, at the end. If you use small one use pieces, then you won’t accidentally get wet epoxy everywhere when cleaning the next club. 
 

And when you do cut, make sure to take into account the length of the cap of your grip. Or, you can end up +1/8”-1/4” club lengths. If you want to be exact. Just trying to think of all the little things I learned (the hard way mostly, DAMN NORWEGIAN Heritage!) through the years. Can’t wait to see the finished result!

Cut after. And, when you are installing the shafts, it helps to have a bunch of precut 4” pieces of dry paper towel ready. If you wipe off the excess epoxy right away, you won’t have any clean up, or minimal, at the end. If you use small one use pieces, then you won’t accidentally get wet epoxy everywhere when cleaning the next club. 
 

And when you do cut, make sure to take into account the length of the cap of your grip. Or, you can end up +1/8”-1/4” club lengths. If you want to be exact. Just trying to think of all the little things I learned (the hard way mostly, DAMN NORWEGIAN Heritage!) through the years. Can’t wait to see the finished result!

And when you do cut, make sure to take into account the length of the cap of your grip. Or, you can end up +1/8”-1/4” club lengths. If you want to be exact. Just trying to think of all the little things I learned (the hard way mostly, DAMN NORWEGIAN Heritage!) through the years. Can’t wait to see the finished result!

And when you do cut, make sure to take into account the length of the cap of your grip. Or, you can end up +1/8”-1/4” club lengths. If you want to be exact. Just trying to think of all the little things I learned (the hard way mostly, DAMN NORWEGIAN Heritage!) through the years. Can’t wait to see the finished result!