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jaskanski

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Everything posted by jaskanski

  1. My torch lighter has a punch built in which comes in handy from time to time if caught out without a cutter.
  2. I pretty sure this is not the case with Eye2 irons - the Ping ball bearing is for older Anser putters where is much less hosel depth the hold a shaft securely with epoxy alone, hence their use. Ball bearings in Eye2's? I've never come across them.
  3. You should have 6 inches of parallel tip section to play with. Depending on what iron number you start with and how true you want it to play to flex will determine your trimming - which will be 5" max amount trimmed on your wedge. Work back in 0.5" increments from that and your 4-iron will be 2" tip trim. Butt trim to your desired playing length from there once you have your set progression. To play slightly firmer to flex, do both Wedge and 9-iron at 5" giving your 4-iron at 2.5" trim. For slightly softer to flex, trim the Wedge at 4.5". You get the the picture.
  4. Both the Eye2's and 845s will have .355" tip size hosel bore. The biggest issue for both is that you have no ferrule (some models of the 845s did) so shaft prep for each has to be accurate to prevent any showing above the top of the hosel. Dry fit the shaft and mark the amount of prep required for each shaft before prepping the tip area to avoid over-abrading the shaft past the top of the hosel. Make sure hosel tops are nicely chamfered to avoid shaft stress. Ping Eye2s of various models have a notoriously sloppy fit in the hosel - shafting beads or making a temporary paper shim to centre
  5. As others have mentioned, fitting is a numbers game - not about the LM data (which does form a part of it) but purely about percentages. A fittied club will have a greater percentage of a better result - regardless of your swing. In fact, it's because of your swing that the fitted club makes perfect sense. It simply reduces the chances (or percentages) of a poor result than a club that is statistically less likely to provide a positive result, because it has not been matched to your physical or dynamic needs. It's that simple. Once you get your head around that simple premise, your p
  6. Not many shafts are balanced towards the tip due to physics - they're thick at the butt and thin at the tip using a uniform material. If you're intent on finding some sort of feel based weighting, then you're probably better off looking at swing weighting options which are a lot easier to engineer into club building - good old-fashioned lead tape being the easiest option to experiment with.
  7. Like I said - it depends on the circumstances. Some shafts have enough parallel tip section to trim to whatever flex you like, but may not possess enough wall thickness to allow them to be shaved down to taper. It's not a huge size as you have mentioned, but it's enough to cause failure at the stress point where the shaft meets the hosel. Specific hybrid shafts are usually good to go as they have reinforced tip sections and they are not likely to be trimmed to the same extent of an iron shaft - they tend to be called hybrid shafts for a reason -they're meant to be used in hybrids. Paralle
  8. Normal practice for hybrid shafts - not a problem for most shaft OEMs. Iron shafts may be a bit different though - if it is tipped trimmed to flex to be used for a specific iron# then it would most certainly be a no. In summary - hybrid yes - iron(s) no- (depending on circumstances)
  9. The black shaft with red lettering is the HZARDUS RED.
  10. It sounds like ferrule creep to me - it happens, particularly in hot climates, if you tend to clean your clubs in hot water, if you tend to leave clubs in a hot environment (eg in the trunk of your car). A quick fix is to gently heat the ferrule with a hair dryer or steam from a kettle and push it back down - secure it with a small dab of epoxy or even super glue and it won't give you much trouble again. Like I said - ferrule creep is quite common and not anything to worry about. If however you can twist the shaft in the adapter or hosel, then you have epoxy failure which will need immediate r
  11. Another vote for the Ping Eye 2 here. The overall design, concept, playability and performance was (and still is) pretty much faultless. The sand wedge alone deserves a mention as one the best all round bunker clubs - it just works. Granted, the look, the offset and the sole bounce (in some cases negative bounce on the longer irons) isn't to everyone's taste, but it's hard to dispute that any other iron had such an impact on the world golf scene from their debut to the present day. Tommy Armour 845's would be a close second maybe, with blade fans going for Mizuno MP33's and yours truly would
  12. I say yes. If nothing else, you may find out something that will point you somewhere you didn't otherwise know.
  13. No Cubans today - Alec Bradley gift from a customer gets a puff. And it's pretty good.
  14. I think @cnosil has a valid point. Bending irons is not always as straightforward as you think if you aren't looking at the bigger picture. As with most good fitters, it's always best to get a snapshot of what you have before making any adjustments - bending 2* is only really possible if you know the reference point you're starting from. Did they just assume the irons were in standard spec without checking first or did they just move 2* from where they were? Measuring everything eliminates any doubt. That is why all good fitters get a baseline of results and metrics as a reference p
  15. I would wait and get the right shaft. Alternatively, you could buy the wedges with whatever shaft and then get them swapped out by any competent pro shop up and down the land who probably WILL have a DG R300 either new or pulled in stock which can be fitted. The DG is pretty common for a reason - it just works. But for a variety of players it is seen as heavy, so it tends to get swapped out a lot. They are cheap as chips too, so don't expect to break the bank in finding one or getting it fitted. Or just wait for the right shaft.
  16. You could try the ubiquitous Trackman Optimal charts for driver distance. They also take into account your AoA, but also assume you hit the middle of the club....er...like we all do.
  17. I think you are missing the point. Any adjustment you do makes a difference by definition. Once you cut anything, it's a non-reversible exercise. How much of a difference it makes depends on what you as a person can perceive or see in real terms. Generally speaking, it is better to start small and see how it works - if more tipping is required, then you can take another small amount off. If you're too impetuous and lob off too much on a whim because you don't even know what the shaft spec is - you have just ruined your first shaft - congratulations. If however you saw a fitter and got
  18. If the shaft is already trimmed to playing length, any tipping will shorten the shaft - meaning you will need to extend the butt - which could make matters worse... It's always best to build the profile into the overall club before anything else - the section of the shaft that you intend to remain in the overall build is crucial. I did a post earlier that explains how it works: But how this actually relates to how you perceive it as a means of stability and control is entirely up to your own opinion. It does get said a lot, but if you get properly fitted before buyin
  19. I have a 1999 Titleist 975F 20.5 degree that gets an airing from time to time, depending on which course I'm playing. Otherwise the oldest club in the bag comes from 2016.
  20. Well - it's not as daft as it seems. Weight is a much overlooked element of shaft fitting. It is a useful tool for controlling tempo. A fast tempo and transition would justify a higher weight - tip trimming 2" would negate the need to trim the butt further and therefore losing more weight. The logic that the 2" tip trim stiffens it up to the 'stiff' frequency range without losing as much overall weight as using a stiff shaft and butt trimming to playing length. 105mph SS isn't that extreme - it's certainly not completely out of any flex category to give the desired trajectory, spin and launch
  21. Taylormade OEM shafts were definitely grey in the lower section as were some Pings as I recall. There is (or certainly was) a distinct difference in specs between the "made for" version and the standard aftermarket retail version, normally in weight categorisation (65g is usually a giveaway of OEM shafts) but also in overall specs of butt diameter and torque, giving a mid/low profile rather than low. The Pro version is ramped up a bit more to give low/low characteristics and TX version to boot. Most shaft manufacturers are a bit fickle when it comes to shaft manufacture and most brands d
  22. The biggest surprise to me is the amount of people who claim that 'there isn't a fitter near me' or 'I cannot justify the cost of a fitting session' - and yet somehow have no trouble in finding their way to Ireland for a 3 week golfing vacation from wherever they live. Bizarre. I guess it comes as no surprise that when they actually do find the time to see a fitter, they usually end up totally ignoring any advice and buying whatever they choose anyway - and then ask random strangers on the internet for a validation of their purchase. Weird.......
  23. I have one and it's OK. The bag itself is pretty well made and the 14 way top works, but the bottom two slots can snag from time to time. The drinks pocket is a bit of a let down though - when it rains it just fills up with water. Stand legs work well but if you're using it on a push cart the wide top design can be a bit of a tight squeeze on some Clic-Gear models. The ball pocket is nice and large and can hold plenty of other stuff. The thing that really let's it down (in my opinion anyway) is the rain hood which is a bit of a faff to put on and when it's on it doesn't really fit that well.
  24. The small batch is a beefed up version of the standard Hzardus Yellow. The flex is 6.5TX and the torque drops down lower than for the standard shaft. Other notable differences are the .660 taper butt section rather than the standard .600" butt. The extra ply wraps for a stiffer profile adds another 5g in weight over the standard shaft too. If it doesn't have the small batch logo in the prismatic colours and the flex doesn't say 6.5TX with a maximum of 3.2 degrees torque - it ain't a small batch.
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