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Everything posted by jaskanski

  1. Believe it or not, I've seen a spate of these failures over the past few years - mostly with higher swing speed players. There's nothing inherently wrong with the shaft - it's the head combined with the shaft. The Ping G30 SF (not the normal version) has a shifted CoG to give it a draw bias. This gives it a bigger tendency to try to close the face through impact giving the tip section enormous stress. Lower speeds tend to be ok, but if you are a harder hitter of the ball the closure rate of the head opposing the shaft and it's desire to resist the twisting effect can lead to a failure ove
  2. First off - check your tip size on your iron heads - if they're already fitted with anything other than KBS Max or graphite then they may not be .370" parallel.... Cutting down a shaft from 4-iron to 8-iron length (2" shorter?) is asking for trouble. Better to stick with the correct length shaft - the Nippon parallel tips are not standard length "blanks" which can be cut to length as you would with something like a Rifle shaft - instead they are all discrete to each club head as if they were taper tips, even though they are parallel - hence only the 8-iron shaft is designed for the 8-iron
  3. A few things to consider here. Firstly, you can't make a stiff shaft into a regular one - you can get somewhere near it, but if you need to soft step to that extent, you might as well have used the regular shaft in the first place to get the trimming and weight right. Secondly, you need to consider the shaft profile. The DG CPT and XP will have an overall stiffer tip profile which is nothing like the Alta CB and won't really give any extra launch and spin that you're looking for - quite the opposite in fact. If the Alta has been specifically fitted, then the DG shafts will not really be a
  4. No need to pull the shaft - just gently heat the ferrule with a hair dryer or steam from a kettle to soften it up a bit. Slide it back in place and glue it in place with a small dab of epoxy or even super glue. It won't creep back in a hurry - even if it eventually does, just repeat. To avoid creep in the first place, try not to store clubs in direct heat of the sun or in the trunk of your car on a hot day. Don't use hot water to wash clubs on a regular basis either. Remember, OEM fitments are made with the least amount of attention to detail so they tend to be the biggest culprits of ferrule
  5. I believe the OP stated that the head was an old Fli Hi - which were stick and glue heads in "normal" form. The same applies to any head that isn't normally removable for shaft fitting or similar such as most irons and older woods etc. If the fitting cart version isn't the same as the retail version, you can normal bet that the fitting head will be non-conforming. I should add - even the markings to the head make a difference. Fitting cart irons with +1" or 1degree upright or something similar stamped on them are equally non-conforming because they are not the same in design , appearance
  6. Counterbalancing only does so much - in effect, you are adding even more dead weight to the overall club that increases the heft you have to transfer - the swing weight scale doesn't have to swing a club - you do. As stated the previous build at -1/2" probably had heavier heads and maybe additional weighting as well to get to Mizuno target swing weight of around D2. Going an extra inch with the same weighted heads is going to be quite a jump in SW - around D6, so they will feel quite heavy as you have already noted. It doesn't really leave you with many options - I always maintain that he
  7. It's non-conforming. Only heads that are submitted to the ruling bodies for appraisal can be passed as conforming - ie clubs that are normally put into play. Since fitting cart heads are not (and never were) intended to be used in play and are usually of a completely different design to that submitted to the ruling bodies, they are almost always deemed as non-conforming.
  8. I like it how pros in the twilight of their careers suddenly want to to change the game that gave them their glory. Jack Nicklaus was equally vocal about his reservations on equipment, but that didn't stop his company from selling oversized clubs, titanium drivers and distance balls a long time ago either. Let him within sin guys.... Anyhoo...it's been well established that equipment is a small part of the how and why golf balls seem to travel further these days - it's a combination of a lot of things. The driver has never been lighter, stronger or scientifically more optimised than it is
  9. Yes - get fitted. This is a classic case of self-appraisal for the purpose of buying and then asking for advice after the fact. Why not do the asking first and then purchase? Anyway, without your exact numbers I would say that your swing speed is below what is required to get the most out of the Evenflow at 6.0 flex - you may want to look at something more flexible. Get a fitting pro to get the weight and shaft profile to match your swing dynamics and match it to your spin/loft and you will have the kind of trajectory your swing can produce. It's that simple.
  10. It's pretty simple - just tape the grip in the normal position to the side of the shaft. The scale doesn't know if it's installed or not. Unless you're blueprinting to 1 tenth of a swing weight point, I wouldn't get too worried about the weight of grip tape at the butt end of a club when you swing it either.
  11. jaskanski

    shaft code

    That is almost certainly a True Temper XP 85 parallel (.370" tip) in regular flex.
  12. I'm actually in two minds on the video sponsorship approach. On the one hand, it's an easy short route to brand awareness on the part of Srixon/Cleveland and their sales will probably show an upturn this year as a result. Mark will naturally continue to extol the virtues of the brand and the value of fitting and trying before you buy. All good stuff I guess - but even though the reviews will continue to be vlogged for other brands, it still has to be considered that Mark is being told what to put in his bag rather than playing what he wants in his bag - there is a limited choice for
  13. Numbers you have are pretty solid. I wouldn't change your current driver shaft weight or length, but you may want to look at x-flex and having your swing coach flatten out your attack angle a degree or so. A minor tweak to ball position and tee height could do the trick and add 10+ yards quite easily. 6-iron is pretty solid too - again, you may want to look at x-flex for more consistency with your sporadic dynamic loft a possible result of your speed over powering the rather flimsy shaft. Distance control is the key with irons, so even a modest change in loft and spin would give excellent
  14. Always use modification of heads as a last resort to club building. If there isn't a 0.355 taper variant to the shafts that you want use (and there probably is) then you have no other option.. Think carefully before proceeding any further. Long story short - fit components to fit components - never alter components to fit components unless you have no other option.
  15. Fitting = forgiveness. That's the whole point of getting fit - your "miss" will be greatly reduced because statistically, you will miss less often. If you have a head shape and design in mind, that is a huge plus. Fitting the eye is an important part in the process. The weight and length are the next important factors. Loft and lie the next. Flex and bend point are last. It sounds a bit obvious, but you may want to transfer the specs of the fitted Callaways to something like the MP32s (or even the MP32s themselves). Once you have a raw set of "fitted" metrics (weight, length, loft, l
  16. With reference to the 2 minutes that DeCambeau took to make (and miss) an 8 foot putt at the Northern Trust, isn't it about time (pun intended) that the PGA looked at applying shot penalties to blatant slow play - in whatever form they manifest themselves? Sure, the Pros have more at stake than most of us - but at the same time (see -there it is again) they also set the "standard" that the rest of the golfing world follow. Thoughts?
  17. You should probably read this before making ay modifications: https://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/18091-setting-the-record-straight-on-tipping/?tab=comments#comment-248218
  18. Correct. You may want to check shaft length too, which is slightly too long (assuming your set up is perfect lol) which accounts for towards the toe hits. As always, check your metrics first. By that I mean actual measurements. It's all very well saying that they are "1 degree upright and +0.5" long" - but from what? They were originally 18" long with a 30 degree lie angle?. In other words, have a reference measurement to start from (this will be the OEM spec or 'blueprint' measurement). From that you can extrapolate real data, rather than any of this 1up x long guff. In fitting we only u
  19. From my experience, shaft breakage (specifically at the tip section above the ferrule) is the result of improper installation - period. Shafts installed into club heads are designed to cope with impacts in whatever form they come, so to blame breakage squarely on to poor impact is absolutely bogus. If the tip section has been improperly prepared and installed however, then you are basically waiting for a failure to happen. The tip section for one has to be prepped correctly. Any coarse abrasion to the tip can lead to weakness in the tip fibres and cause failure. Secondly, any l
  20. I really don't get it. Would you buy a cake based on an algorithm's opinion on what you perceive as good? Or (as many do) seek a diagnosis for a medical condition based on an online "tool" ? The bottom line is that even though online tools exist to "help" in making choices, the sad fact is that they rely on user input to determine a recommendation - and guess what? people still lie about their own ability to "fit" themselves. Alternatively, you could go and see a fitter and you would know in an instant if something felt right or gave the kind of performance to match your ability - t
  21. Long story short - get fitted properly. Heel strikes are indicative of several different types of issues, but in essence the iron length to your swing path is wrong - which means the length is probably too long for the given swing, hence the strikes tend to be towards the heel instead of in the centre of the face. If the length was too short, the strikes would tend to be towards the toe. There are several other causes to take into effect, not least of which is the switch from 95g steel to 65g graphite, but the overall flex profile may also compound the error of length thus making co
  22. I wouldn't be too hasty in thinking that. Regardless of the cost of manufacture for graphite becoming cheaper, steel still beats that price by a large margin. If you factor in the durability and easier assembly/prep processfor steel shafts too, I don't think they're going anywhere soon. Sure, graphite has it's adavantages but steel is still the king of iron shafts - and will probably remain so for a very long time.
  23. What head type are you putting it in? It can make a difference. https://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/18091-setting-the-record-straight-on-tipping/?tab=comments#comment-248218
  24. Good question. OEM's are limited to what price point they sell their equipment at. If labour costs for measuring and assembly are not controlled to a tolerance you have two possible outcomes: 1. Clubs built to a really high tolerance will be reflected in their cost - expensive. 2. Clubs built to a low tolerance will be of poor quality and will not sell in large volumes. Neither of these is really what most major OEM's are looking for. Instead, they are looking to build a club to an acceptable cost to quality ratio that consumers will empathise with. How much this tolerance
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