jaskanski

http://www.golfclubshaftreview.com/uploads/1/6/3/7/16375428/callaway1.2.pdf

Pretty sure (the majority) Callaway RCH were Aldila. Some others were HST (not many).

You live in London? - 'there's nobody near me'. Your home course is...?

If we could see your swingspeed and peak height/decent angle, it might give a better picture of exactly how 'optimal' those numbers are. If you're not looking to hit it any further, (or dare we say a specific yardage) then the numbers cease to be optimal - here's why: 'Optimal' launch metrics are for one purpose only - to hit the greatest possible distance with a given swing speed and loft. That's it. If you're looking to hit a specific yardage, or control the ball flight, then 'optimal' is not going to win that battle. 'Talent' does - or the abitly to finesse the shot to make the yardage you want regardless of ground conditions and weather conditions. The longer the club, the harder it becomes to hit a 'specific' yardage with any level of accuracy. For what its worth (being a long time user of a 2-iron myself) I don't really think there is much more to add. If I were hitting low bullets at 252yards, I'd take that all day long if you play a windy links. The main factor is - where does it fill a perceived 'gap'? The modern 2-iron (especially in the sub-18 degree range) isn't really reknowned a reliable go-to club for a specific yardage, so exactly what 'gap' it fills is open to opinion. From various lies and longer grass, there are better options out there to achieve the same result. Off the tee and better (ie perfect) lies, it can be a reliable fairway finder and wind beater, but if you're looking to hit a repeatable yardage +/- 10 yards or so from anywhere where a 250 yard shot is required, then you either need to be a pro-level ball striker or you need to have a reality check with it's place in your bag. Long story short, the launch and spin figures are pretty much irrelevant if the ball flight fits the desired result. It's certainly good to hit your given distance off the tee, but don't expect to hit and hold any green with those spin and launch numbers. As a viable option for a low shot on a tight fairway where the resulting approach shot isn't compromised - it makes sense (as was the case with my 2-iron use on specific courses). Anywhere else - I guess you could always putt with it. My 2 cents.

Back to using the venerable Grafalloy Prolaunch Red - it just works. Launch and spin are exactly where I want them to be (low/low) and the price is insanely cheap for a shaft of this quality. I liked it so much I got one installed in my 3-wood too.

Good review. I had the 2020 model but got rid of it because of annoying flaws that made it a PITA for regular use. The biggest one is the useless rain cover wich is a faff to try and put on during a round. The drinks pocket fills up with water when it rains too. The carry straps aren't great and the leg separation means it's an awkward fit in most popular push carts. Not sure if the 2021 model brings anything extra to the table...? But if you like Titleist - it's an OK bag.

It's probably the plastic tip covers (sometimes blue?) that TM uses to prevent epoxy going up the shaft during assembly. You could probably blast it out with a bit of torch heat and dig it out with a sharp point, or drill it out cold if you have .370" hosel (probably).

A lot would depend on how you want them to play out in terms of flex and playing length - as a general rule, start with small increments as you obviously can't go back if you trim too much. If you have an 8 piece set as pictured, start with no tip trim for your longest iron and check the frequency relative to how you normally perceive "stiff" for a 4-iron you would need to be looking in the 320-325 cpm range- if all OK you can then trim in 0.5" increments (max) until your get to your shortest iron. If too weak to flex, trim 0.25" on the longest and check again - follow the same trimming increments. Unless you find the correct trimming info in the meantime of course lol. If

Wouldn't it be a lot easier to use the correct electrolysis process to strip chrome and replace with the desired finish (dull or matt chrome can be applied)? All you are doing is abrasively removing a layer of metal. The hard way.

Yikes - ANOTHER hollow iron? Maybe Taylormade were really onto something 30 years ago when the ICW's first came out? Seriously though - some dang fine looking irons. Let's hope they don't hit moon balls like the i500's..

Work on the stuff you do before you even hit a ball - the fundamentals: Grip - neutral, it will mimic the club face. Stance - correct spine angle Ball position - correct impact zone Alignment - the ball goes where you aim it! If you can't replicate these for each shot, you can never hope to be consistent. Your pre-shot routine will become your destiny - ignore it at your peril.

Funny you should say that....cigars just don't like the cold weather.

I would say get fitted properly. I'm not really sure why you would want a 52 degree wedge when your set AW is 50 degrees anyway - and quite high in bounce too. Throwing a blanket statement like "the shaft is the problem' sounds daft if you haven't eliminated any other obvious variables. But if you want to experiment on your own - crack on.

TT has made literally hundreds of shafts that are no longer in production. They also made shafts through the PFC (performance fitting centre) and even acquired Accra I think.

10 shafts would equate to 1 iron through to PW. Using the ubiquitous TT trim code iH1 for standard bore insertion: 1 = 0 2 = 0.5" 3 = 1.0" 4 = 1.5" 5 = 2.0" 6 = 2.5" 7 = 3.0" 8 = 3.5" 9 = 4.0" PW = 4.25" I'm guessing each shaft has a raw length of 39"-40"? Butt trim to desired playing length. Done.

Not sure what you want? The Tour average smash for wedges in the 54-56 degree range is 0.93 - that's pro level with a premium ball. So your 1.0 for a 52 wedge (?) is about right. Since you didn't reveal the actual yardages gaps either...what are you looking for? Other than getting properly fit?

Diamond Crown Julius Caeser Robusto. Decidedly average...

A simple change in ball position or tee height could be a revelation if you go to see a pro. It's a lot simpler than reaching for a solution by applying your own guesswork - in that the inert object (in this case the shaft) is the root cause of the problem. A quick tip for any budding self-fitters out there: eliminate the variables first. That means once you are certain one element is functioning OK, it can be discarded as the cause. So before you even start your backswing, make sure the fundamentals are in place - that means (and I know it sounds boring) grip, stance, ball position, alignment, tee height. Basics. And a good pro will identify this in minutes - and potentially save you wasting money on equipment. Once you have a solid set up, then you can analyse the effect equipment has combined with your swing. My 2 cents.

Sampler of Swag robustos arrived - so one might get a puff if the sun comes out...

It all depends what you're trying to match. If you like the idea of ascending weight from long iron to short irons as the Ping AWT offer, then your choices on a graphite equivalent at the same weight and profile are rather limited. If you can find them (?) the Mitsubishi Tensei AV White AM2 would be close, but the cost would be off putting - and perhaps challenge the idea of the cost of getting fitted to what you want again. https://www.mca-golf.com/products/av-white-am2-irons

Isn't this the reason for the hybrid bag? Capable of being cart, push or carry compatible. Eg: Titleist hybrid 14 or Taylormade flex tech hybrid. Clubs in the wrong direction? Take them out and insert into the slot that suits. Putter well could be the exception - not a deal breaker IMO.

The Gunmetal Lin-Q is a shaft designed for fast swingers with a hard transition and move at the ball. Aggressive players looking to control tempo would benefit from a shaft like this with a 70g + weight and stiff tip and mid sections. Price is reasonable in the 200-250 range. Cons - not for smooth swingers with moderate tempo or those looking for higher launch. UST claim a unique fibre technology with added strength at a lower weight - but what manufacturer doesn't these days in their range? Overall feel is firm to stout with a lower torque models - UST have their usual blurb on energy storage, stability, straighter longer drives etc - which is pretty much a sales gimmick without being properly fitted for this shaft. Or any other shaft in their range.

I saw these prices and thought "are they from the 1970's" lol. No idea how they make any money out of club repair and adjustment services either - but the old adage "you get what you pay for" is probably ringing alarm bells if you think you're getting a quality fitting at those prices. Maybe they have Elves to help or something?

I usually stick with a players type iron for the simple reason of distance control - not to maximise distance. Irons after all are usually for hitting specific yardages. So taking one more club to hit a specific yardage in specific conditions is natural to me. I dabbled with the GI "distance" irons and sure enough they gave a healthy increase in distance, but the disparity between best and worst strikes was ludicrously wide. Occasionally, you even got the odd bizarrely long yardage for no apparent reason (case in point Ping i500 4-iron with "power spec" that went 240 yards on occasions. You can't play with that. Instead, I prefer an iron with a consistent yardage disparity. In other words, if I want a 160 yard shot, I know I'm going to get it plus or minus a couple (maybe 10 on a bad day :D) yards. I can live with that. What I can't live with is an iron that goes plus or minus 30+ yards. That's crazy. So club up I say - and enjoy the solid consistency of a blade or players iron. I'm 55 BTW.

I used to know a few of the guys there - not sure if they still work there or not, but a very good bespoke service without forcing you into any particular option. Full trackman assisted analysis and great range of products. Two cracking courses on site too - what more could you ask? Recommended.