BMart519

Kevin Stadler has one in the bag at Valero this week. Let's GO! Maybe they'll bump the price another $100 if he gets a T10

I played around with 15% per percent on Exputt and it was usually pretty close. This would give 14’6” on a 10’ putt with 3% uphill slope. Doing some rough math on the aimpoint chart I posted would extrapolate out to 18-19% for 12 stimp. Would be interesting to see how 20% worked at that speed. disclaimer - tonight was the first time I used stimp 10 and any speed setting other than 7. But I started with some calibration work on 5-50 footers in practice mode to develop some feels.

I read about vector putting and wanted to try this... I use aimpoint express on course which points you in the area of the fall line and then visualize my target either closer to me for downhill or past the hole for flat and uphill putts along the aimpoint line. Thinking about this in my head, that would assume the amount of break only depends on slope or that line of zero break which would conflict with the impacts of green speed from these charts. Will be interesting to test both methods... If the weather holds, I'll play my first 18 on Monday. Fingers crossed I can try it out.

I've been using Exputt on stimp 7 and only looked at the 8 stimp numbers. I averaged it out to 11% downhill and 9% uphill since 5% slopes and above is rare. I round this to 10% per 1% of slope and it has been working well in Exputt. Need to experiment at 10 stimp, guessing 13% downhill and 9 uphill... But will first verify how off the ballpark assumption of 10 for both works at this level. Hoping to actually use this on the course this weekend as well.

Don’t remember the source

I play some cheap muni courses... Summer was the difficulty setting. March and April golf 2 hours north of the US border is always slow greens. Even mid-season, the nicest public clubs in the city will only get up to 10-11 maximum for maybe 1 month (8-9 is much more common). It is difficult to maintain greens at that level in a dry, cold climate and the courses don't want to invest the money. I found charts with stimp adjustments for uphill/downhill putts based on % slope. They allow me to calculate an equivalent distance for flat putts. Ie. a 33' putt that is 1' downhill plays similar to a 23' flat putt. I hope this helps me with elevation changes on the course this year. The Play 9 mode then becomes a random number generator for distances and calculate uphill/downhill. (I set all putts to straight with the hints feature in Play 9.) My most used setting is 5-50ft increasing putts in practice mode, spent time on 5-10 footers yesterday for start line. I prefer a yard stick for start line and alignment, but 5-10 ft practice mode works OK.

Summer time and the putting’s easy. other than 1 little blip in there...

It's like a higher power is telling me to work on my low point control...

Really liking the mat to hit little chips taking the club shaft back to parallel to ground to work on clean contact with no ball indoors. Also for back to 3/4 swings with lead arm parallel to ground. Easy to grab a club in the living room and make a couple swings to dial in low point and get the feel of a good transition and not hanging back.

I could never get a SeeMore into a comfortable address position where the red dot is not partially visible in at least 1 eye. Alignment is strange with the shaft intersecting the ball. Definitely something to try in store and maybe find something in the used bin for $50 to see if it works on the course before spending $400-500 on one. There's a reason only a small group of people use them...

- Need at least 5-10 minutes of mostly dynamic warm-up prior to sprints. You can google specific warmups for sprinting. - 1-2 sprints at 60-80% effort will only help for warm-up - If you have not done max effort sprints in months, you should avoid going 100% for a couple sessions and work up through the 60-80% range and then towards full speed. - Hamstrings is another area to monitor, especially if spending a lot of time seated. - The worst part about speed training is you spend as much or more time warming up compared to "working sets"

Your wrists are not going to enjoy hitting balls off plywood over the long term. You would need to find some piece of rubber or dense sponge. I think it would be safe to assume the harder the material under the mat, the faster it will wear out if there is less give under the sequins to absorb force from the contact and flex a bit. If cost is a concern, place a towel a few inches behind your ball flat on the ground or use something to mark a line to judge if you are hitting it fat. Use tees or balls for a gate drill to avoid heel and toe strikes.

If you're going stir crazy waiting around for 3 minute rest periods, you can do mobility work for other parts of the body during that time. You also may be able to reduce rest down to 2 minutes.

I always wonder about the criteria for outliers that are removed from the data. The far left data point for the G410 above is 15 yards left of the next closest point and creates a 105 yard wide dispersion pattern vs 95 yd wide with the G425 and the next closest point being only 9 yards away. I couldn't find any other shots over 10 yards outside the next closest point, but I only looked at 5-10 clubs.

I experiment with feels or swing thoughts. I haven't to video'd to see if the feel was real... And sometimes old thoughts don't work during a certain session. Here's a few to play with: * loose grip/wrists (help maximize wrist hinge) high hands (max hand path, reach as far from ball as possible - I even tested with a measuring tape) * stomp lead heel (I lift lead heel on nearly all full swings) jump/push up with lead leg (often preceded by bump hips toward target) rip lead glute back from target (open hips) whip lead knee toward trail knee (max hip turn) * are favourites and help me most often I'm not 100% confident in the ability of a $300 unit to accurately capture max speed every swing. I'm sure it is taking a "snapshot" at a point along the swing arc which may not always be your max depending on release timing. Averages, max speeds, and trends over time should be the focus compared to your slowest swing of the day. The first swing is seldom the fastest, your body needs to figure out timing as all these clubs are different weights and load different.

I tend to hit fat on the divot board... But the top surface also sits 3/4" off the floor and I'm usually in my living room in bare feet. So that's about 1" above a flat lie compared to with shoes. When I try to strike 3-4" in front of the ball, I often miss the mat entirely. Probably an issue with casting and a poor pivot.

I don't know what the climate and course conditions are like in the fall where you play, but the courses here firmed up in September and October. I tag all my shots with Shot Scope and hit a 17 deg hybrid 260 off the tee in my last round which is 10 yards longer than my good shots and 30+ longer than average. My 95-100 MPH swing speed is good for 240-250 carry with driver which works out to about 270 total in normal conditions at Calgary's elevation. It doesn't take much wind or a firm bounce to add 10-20 yards. How was the course overall that day?

Go watch the videos on TheStacksystem.com or sasho’s Twitter. It logs all your data, has all the routines, some training videos, and times your workouts plus more.

36 putts in practice mode, first 5-50ft increasing then analysis mode. Only 3/36 putts outside the 3’ ring... and they were all inside the 6’ ring at roughy 4, 5, and 6’... could be something to this thing

It should be a right of passage that each owner of a 17 deg puts up some launch monitor numbers in this thread. So we can see who is truly worthy of Thor’s hybrid hammer.

Happened to a buddy, I believe he suffered a full or partial re-tear after the walking boot was off due to a minor slip. Make sure you focus on lots of mobility work all up and down the back of the affected leg - plantar fascia, calves, hamstrings especially with all the extra time spent sitting.

I've only used a weighted sled on artificial turf which has a lot more resistance than wheels. I used 50% of my body weight while still moving at a decent pace. Around 75% and it was a challenge to keep moving. On wheels I think 80-100% is a reasonable start point, but it may prove too easy. I would caution you to watch the momentum on that thing... It might get awkward if you need to stop it in a short distance. I would take it easy the first day, start at 100-150 just to get used to the equipment, then go to 200 and assess how hard it is to stop or if you can let it roll to a stop on its own. If it is easy to stop, I think you can probably move to 300-400 in no time. 25m is good, lots of gyms only have 15-20m for sleds.

Simplifaster (or Par4Success) had research showing that a number of people used improper sequencing on the green stick. They used more upper body than lower body in response to the weight being too light. My guess is 250g is too light for someone who DLs 400lbs. They found that using only the Blue stick drove similar gains to using all 3 sticks. You're likely not firing your legs and hips as much on the green stick. Use the green stick (or take the head off your driver shaft) to do 1 arm swings and compare speeds for each arm. If there is a large difference, then it will be an area to improve. I've got no ideas why you would be faster non-dominant, unless your right leg is stronger than left (to produce more vertical force on lead side) and your sequencing is equally efficient swinging each way. Which would be impressive. As a right hander, my right leg is stronger than my left. But my coordination isn't even close on the non-dominant swings and I am this close to eliminating non-dominant swings altogether after more reading. If anything, I would like to experiment with a "plyo-swing" where you do a full swing RH, then swing back as hard as you can without stopping, in the other direction. But, I am going to be patient and continue rehabbing my shoulder for the next month or two until my Stack System arrives to replace my homemade SS sticks. Mach 3 Speed Training has an interesting drill where you swing as fast as possible side to side for 6 reps but only partial swings. Like doing a 90-90 drill as fast as you can, or even shorter. They have a lot of gimmicky devices, but their swing drills are interesting.

I ordered it to get lifetime access to the app and will start a post in a couple months when it arrives. I'm confident there will be continued additions and refinements to the app based on Sasho's research. In my opinion, this system drives SuperSpeed to build an app to keep up if it becomes poplar. It completes all the data tracking for you hands free, paces your reps/rests, and tailors the weights/programs to you. There's a minimum of 42 weeks of programming in the system if you complete each program 1X. I've read studies that found the lightest Superspeed stick is of minimal benefit for some people because your sequencing is impacted due to the green stick being too light. All of these aspects are going to be tailored to the person based on their speed and strength levels in the Stack app. The data collection also measures your fatigue levels throughout the workout which is an important aspect to work at maximum output and speed. This type of customization is likely to get you greater gains than SS, or similar gains in a much shorter period of time. If people start seeing results with this system at lower rep numbers than SS and without opposite side swings, it is going to call into question the SS protocols. This system set me back $470 in Canadian dollars, which I felt was reasonable for better hardware and software compared to a bunch of Youtube videos and some sticks at half the cost, that I ended up building myself for $50. The lifetime license can be used for 5 people on 1 account, so you could give someone your account password if you wanted to sell it afterwards and advertise they never need to pay the annual fee.

Good point about practice swings, but you don't need to take a full swing to activate the watch. Just holding the club in the hand with the watch for like 10 seconds is usually enough to wake it up. If you have any waggles back to shaft or arm parallel, it still works as that is all I do and rarely miss full swings. I agree, the V2 watch is hideous which almost pushed me to V3 alone along with better battery. I did forget the watch at home a couple times this year which isn't an issue with the phone, but is still a problem with Link. I find having all hazard distances and front/middle/back on the watch a huge time saver, this is coming from someone who dislikes watches for golf - I wear SS 1-2" above my wrist. I've reviewed round data from 5+ people in Arccos, in my experience the Shot Scope data is more accurate (and V3 is supposedly better) especially putting which carries over to 2-3 areas in SG.