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About RI_Redneck

  • Birthday 10/03/1962

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    New England
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    Golf, Food, Travel.

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  1. If you slice your driver more than your other clubs, then you need to compare your driver setup (stance, ball position, swing, etc) to your FW setup. Odds are they will be very different. They should not be! The differences between driver setup and 3w setup should be as follows: Stance - Feet should be no further apart with driver than with 3w. Weight distribution should be the same, as well as pelvic tilt rearward. Ball position - NO MORE than 1" more forward in your stance than your 3w from a tee (1.5" 3w from deck). Tee Height - This can vary depending on the face depth of your driver, but if you sole your driver, the center of the ball should be even with the top of the face (not the crown). Many have wrecked their driver performance by trying to hit up on the ball TOO MUCH. Plus 3°-4° should be the max anyone tries to get. If you're at plus 3°-4° and your launch is too low, you need more loft. Your swing should literally be the same swing you make with the 3w. Your ball placement will insure the AoA is slightly up since the ball is slightly more forward compared to your 3w. I see many who place the ball A LOT more forward in their stance and not only do they have to make an exaggerated move to just hit the ball, their path is turning so hard left at that point that slice spin is almost guaranteed! Once you check the things listed above and have them correct. Hit some balls swinging just like you were hitting 3w shots. Odds are your shots will not be slicing nearly as much. But, if they are still slicing more than your 3w, check the weighting of your driver. Many drivers are a good bit lighter than FWs. A much lighter club will typically come into the ball more open because the weight is not sufficient to square the club with the same sequencing used to hit the heavier clubs.And it's not just swingweight, it's total weight too. The clubs should feel the same when swung. If they don't, the driver needs to be re-weighted. BT
  2. I've used them for probably 8 yrs now and they outlast any other grip made. They are leather and a bit on the expensive side ($25) if just comparing price. The tackiness claim is true and it varies depending on which grips you get. Classic Wrap being the tackiest. You're limited as to how much you can build them up because the leather doesn't stretch. Two wraps is about the max. I use midsize Classic Wraps and regularly get 2-3 yrs out of them. It's usually the side of the b u t t caps that wear through and I help avoid this by installing a bit of shrink tubing on the sides of the b u t t cap. I love them and won't play with anything else. My son hates them cause they're so sticky. You just have to try some and see what you think. BT
  3. You can make your FWs any length you want. You just have to re-weight them IF they feel too light after doing it. My recommendation is take your 5w shaft and put it in your 3w (provided they are the same adapter) and see how you like it. BT
  4. Time to reshaft. But you need to know what you need to get! If you don't want to see a fitter, post all of the specs you have on your swing and someone here can make some recommendations. BT
  5. Don't alter your clubs to play in the wind. Alter your shot. BT
  6. I greatly appreciate the well wishes! BT
  7. For me, the head lags behind if the SW/MOI is too high for my tempo. I don't run into this problem much since I like my clubs on the heavy side. I ran into it while experimenting for the proper weighting years ago. Odds are, if adding the lead tape makes it worse, then you need to go lighter instead. Hopefully your clubs have weights that can be changed. Otherwise, you may be looking at a reshaft. Only trying will tell. BT
  8. Trucks with bed covers have to be the best option for carrying everything you might need. The Honda Ridgeline also has a lockable trunk in the bed that will fit a single set of clubs. For those who are environmentally conscious, the Honda Accord Hybrid (which I drive at home) has a large trunk and will easily fit 4 carry bags or two bags and push carts. It was the biggest trunk I could find on a hybrid sedan. However, Being a traveling golfer who drives rental cars more than I drive my own, I would like to give some suggestions on them. I avoid Hatchbacks & SUVs like the plague. Why? Because if someone can see your clubs in the back while it's parked in the hotel parking lot, they will break the windows and steal them. If they have a pull out cover, it's not so bad, but they can still get in there pretty easy and will be tempted to see what you're covering up in there. If I have a group of golfers on a trip, I usually will opt for a van instead of an SUV. It's a lot easier to hide the clubs in the back since most have a recessed area where the third row folds down. The Chrysler Pacifica is a really good one these days since a lot of the rental companies have the nicer trim packages with leather and other nice features. The best option is to take your clubs in the hotel though. That way, you KNOW there safe. The Impala, Malibu, Charger and Challenger, mentioned earlier, all have nice big trunks for multiple bags and are typically not an up-charge rental. The midsize Toyotas, Kias, Hyundai, etc. typically will fit a single bag no problem, but if you use a rigid travel case, they will be a problem because it will not fit in any of those trunks. That's about all I have to add. BT
  9. Unless I'm reading this wrong, he is saying the same thing I said relating to the swing. BT
  10. You DO NOT have to change your swing to hit up on the ball. Just change the ball's position in your stance so that the club contacts it after reaching the low point in the swing. I mentioned changing ball position in my post which will change the AoA with the same swing. If the golfer benefits from a positive AoA, then they just need to move the ball forward until their normal swing presents that AoA to the ball at contact. This does not REQUIRE any more tilt, but may require a slight grip adjustment to get the face square (or desired FA if not square) at impact. BT
  11. After reading this entire thread, I have a few comments: 1. Could everyone please go to Youtube and pull up their favorite PGA/LPGA pro. Then look for them hitting driver and them hitting 3w. Now, tell me if the swings look different? They don't. BALL POSITION may be different, but the swing is the same. As a matter of fact, it looks the same as just about all of their full shots regardless of the club. This is what has gotten in so many golfers heads... that they have to swing the driver different from any other club. It is THE SAME SWING with slightly different ball position. You use a tee because the COG of the head is too high to be practical off the ground. 2. IF your driver FEELS different from your 3w/other clubs.... THAT'S A PROBLEM! Have it weighted to feel the same. It's hard to SWING the same with clubs that don't feel the same. Many think length of drivers is a problem. I built a 47.5" driver back in the spring and it is as easy to hit as my regular 44.5" drivers. Sure, dispersion is a bit wider, but only cause the ball is going further. It is weighted so that it feels like all my other drivers. Proper balance promotes better and more consistent contact. 3. For those who say they have issues hitting anything other than the driver off a tee, I say don't. Yes, the golden rule is always to try to get the perfect lie on every tee box. However, that doesn't necessarily involve a tee. Unless the teeing area is rock hard, I simply tap up a bump of turf with the toe of my club and place the ball on it. It's the same height as a low tee and you don't have the impact resistance that is sometimes felt when the club hits the tee. It also give you confidence to hit those FWs off the deck like they are supposed to be hit. 4. Correct Loft - The OP is using the EFSZ which is a low spin head. When the ball is contacted center to high center, spin is typically very low. Even when the loft is set to it's highest. I play the King LTD Pro which is also low spin. My CHS is around 110 right now and I play the loft at the maximum 10° setting. My typical contact point is center to just above center and sometime the random slight heel center with an AoA of no more than +1°. Even into a good headwind, I get a very piercing flight with about a 12° LA. I see a lot of golfers wanting to play low spin heads at lower loft settings and then trying to hit massively up on the ball to get their desired LA while minimizing spin. This is totally unnecessary. My ball spin numbers are in the low 2000's and I never have balls balloon with my driver. Make the driver fit your swing, not your swing fit the driver. Lastly, Decade says to play the longest shot without getting in trouble. Many times that's a FW, hybrid or iron. Watch the pros, the SMART ones play what gives them the best chance of hitting the green with the next shot. On courses where the rough is extremely penal, they shoot for the fairway. On courses where the rough is not penal, they play for best position. BT
  12. I have to say sorry to everyone cause I haven't been posting to this thread in a while. I have been putting the 47.5" Cobra SZ / HZRDUS Yellow through the ringer and I have to say, it works great. After getting used to the length, my shot pattern is no worse than any of my regular length drivers and distance is 15-25 yds better. I settled on the original SW and MOI that I mentioned in an earlier post and it is completely comfortable to swing through an entire round. Feel is literally identical to my other drivers if I close my eyes. I did raise the loft up to 9.5 because draws were flying a little lower than I wanted. One other thing that I have noticed is that I have to start my backswing slightly more outside than all my other clubs to get nice straight shots. I think it's because my plane is so much flatter with that length that it makes me come too much from the inside if I start back just like I do with my shorter clubs. Anyway, this build is a definite winner for me. BT
  13. I learned to play FWs this way and have never changed. I simply bump the turf up about 1/8" on the teeing area and place the ball on that. I've never hit a FW off a tee my whole life. I also have never had a problem hitting any FW I tried. Some of the things I've found that make playing a FW easier are: Heavier shafts - I like a FW shaft to be at least 10-20g heavier than my driver shaft. I play most of my clubs at around D6 and like 80-90g shafts for my FWs. Open (measured) Face angle - I like to play my FWs with the same swing as my mid and long irons. However, FWs have a MUCH wider sole than irons. A FW with an open FA gives you a much smaller part of the sole contacting the ground when the club is squared up to the ball. This makes it much easier to swing down through the ball and let the loft do the work. I always have a shallow divot after a FW shot. Proper loft - I find it best to forget the whole 3w, 4w, etc naming and just find the lofts that work best for you. If 16.5 is the lowest you can get good trajectory with, then don't try going any lower. Your swing should designate the loft you use on your FWs. Practice - Someone mentioned several posts back about practicing your FWs. DO IT and don't use a tee. Hit them off the deck like they are designed to be hit. The more you practice, the more confidence you will have with them. BT
  14. First off, I grew up in the "steel shaft" era, so everything is lighter now. However, I find that I need a certain amount of total weight and swing heft in order to get the most out of MY swing. I urge all golfers to do the necessary research to find out what is best for them because, as we all know, everyone is different. Personally, I am 58 yrs old, have been playing since I was 10. I have a very grooved swing and have a driver CHS of 108-112 mph. My tempo is smooth, but not as slow as our Masters Champion who was mentioned earlier. I almost pause at the top, but try not to think about it. All of my drivers are in the 330g range and have shafts that weigh anywhere from 65g to 95g. I hit them all about the same, but like some more than others. I don't sell anything when I get new stuff, so yeah, I have a lot of clubs. I checked the MOI on all of my drivers this spring when I got my MOI Auditor and most were very close. Those that were off, are now where they should be and hit better as a result. I am what has been called many times an extremely good fairway wood player. Not my words, just the comments I have received when playing. In the early graphite days (late 80's & 90's) I used 90-100g shafts in my FWs. I have moved to 80-90g in my current gamers and get CHS only a few MPH slower than my driver. I almost always take a divot or at least disturb the gras when hitting a FW shot. Only in the desert on the stiff Bermuda grass do I not. I was always taught to hit down on my FWs and my results seem to prove that to be sound advice. I feel this is why I like a heavier shaft in my FWs. It just gives me the feeling I have heft in the club to swing through that turf on the followthrough. All that being said, the question is "Should YOU use a heavier shaft in your FW?" My answer is..... That's a good question. Perhaps you should try some and see! BT
  15. Sorry I've been away for a bit and haven't updated this thread. I didn't want to leave just the screws in the weight pockets, so I had to make a couple of 2g weights out of HDPE because I couldn't find any online. I've recently gotten some free time for range work and one round with my son last Sunday. I still have the Speedzone/HZRDUS Yellow combination at 47.5 and it's actually working pretty well. Even with my stiff joints and the 40-50° temps we are having, I'm getting around 260 carry on well struck drives. I tend to catch one high on the face every now and then which gives a bit less, but accuracy has been pretty good. The swing feel is really pretty close to my other drivers that are at 44.5, but I can still tell I'm swinging something longer. Time will tell if this becomes my gamer for serious play. BT
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