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RI_Redneck

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About RI_Redneck

  • Birthday 10/03/1962

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New England
  • Interests
    Golf, Food, Travel.
  • Handicap:
    8
  • EBAY ID:
    RI_Redneck

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  1. I see your epic flash in your sig has a AD Tour TSG Blue 65 X (no length or sw mentioned). Was this the same shaft you had in the Rogue? Just curious cause the adapter is the same. If not, could you please list the shaft from the Rogue. The reason I ask is because a lot of "fittings", even from theoretically reputable fitters, are not as thorough as they should be. The shaft and weighting play a serious role in the performance of a club for a given individual. For example: The ST190 I mentioned in my original post. It was stock with the Atmos Black TS 65 S @ D2 45.5" w/ a total weight of 307g & a standard grip. I hit it okay like that, but dispersion and CHS (100-106) were quite erratic and I could tell it was way too light. I took it home, trimmed to 44.5" (which I prefer), installed my preferred grip MG Wrap (54g) built to my preferred size & taper, grabbed my lead tape and went back to the shop (SW went to C8 with the changes). I got back on the LM and started checking out the results. I started with 4x 2" strips (approx 2g each) of HD lead tape (brought SW to D2) and swung a few times. Dispersion was better and SS was more tight (102-108) but the club still felt too light. I put on 2 more strips and it brought my SS into my normal range of 105-108 and my ball flight became much more normal. Acceptable, but still felt a little light. I added 2 more strips and bingo! Felt like a dream and everything just clicked. In the end, I added 12g of weight to the clubhead and ended up with a SW around D6. Went back home and weighed the head (209g from the original 197g). That's what should happen when you get your fitted club handed to you. Especially if it was built off sight! BT
  2. Really? I'd be curious to see the results AND the specs of both clubs including SW and total weight. If the club's specs are virtually identical (which they should be if they are both PROPERLY FIT) and the golfer gets sizable differences during the same hitting session, I will eat my words AND, I'll be getting a new driver head. BTW, I didn't say there wouldn't be increases, I said huge increases. And by properly fit, I mean a driver that is giving the specific golfer optimum consistent results with their normal swing. Properly fit 15 yrs ago is not properly fit. BT
  3. Didn't want to elaborate too much since it was a long post to begin with, but huge, IMHO, is 20 yds longer or forest to fairways. The stuff that hardly anyone in these forums usually sees. Anecdotally, I have drivers manufactured from 2000 to 2019 that are properly fit to me and the performance differences between them are negligible at best. Of course, they are all the top models during that time and all have premium fitted shafts and grips. I admit that I have it far better than most because I was fitting clubs in the 80's and even though I no longer do it for others, I stay up on everything for myself. I am also fully aware that something as simple as a change in grip diameter or even texture can make a difference in results, just not usually huge differences like the OP was describing. Incidentally, I forgot to include the question asking if the OP was having the same issues with the driver he was previously using before the fitting? I'm rather curious if that was the case. BT
  4. This is total BS. You should be fitted to your normal swing because that's normally what you play with. Getting fitted when your swing is screwed up is NOT getting fitted. It's just buying a new club. That being said, I bought literally the same driver a couple of weeks ago. I have no problem hitting it because it is weighted and balanced properly for me. I ended up with the SW a bit higher than I normally use because of the shaft (lighter than I typically use). Many think that just going back to your old reliable SW is all that's needed, but that's not always the case. It may be "D2" or whatever SW that you typically like, but do the total weight & SW suit your swing? For example, I like a D4 SW with an 80g shaft, but not with a most 60g shafts. Just doesn't feel right. My subconscious wants a bit more weight for my tempo to stay right. I also understand that I'm not going to get some huge gain in distance with a new driver because that just doesn't happen unless your previous driver was very ill fitting to your swing. Yes, that is correct. Moving from one properly fitted driver to another properly fitted driver WILL NOT NECESSARILY GIVE YOU HUGE CHANGES IN RESULTS, PERIOD. The sooner people understand that the better off they'll be. Also, for anyone going into a fitting on a LM, take into consideration that are not flawless. I have seen my 108 SS displayed anywhere from 95 to 130. Ideally, when your getting fitted, you shouldn't be looking at the numbers until your done with the process. It's human nature to change things when your not seeing what you think you should. As for your gapping issue, unless you are having swing issues with your irons, the first thing you want to do is have them checked for loft & lie to make sure they're not out of spec. Once that's done and you know they're correct, gapping comes down to quality of contact. However, if you are having issues with your swing, get that looked at immediately and don't worry about gapping until it's resolved. Trying to fix a problem when you don't know what the problem is, is an exercise in futility. BT
  5. Nice find!! Love the Mizuno and the MP33 is one of the most timeless designs they have made. Enjoy the sweet feel! BT
  6. Yeah. A flaw in the system IMHO. Nowhere does it give a variance for conditions. Any course will play more difficult with difficult conditions. BT Sent from my XT1585 using MyGolfSpy mobile app
  7. I'm about a 2.25. I average playing twice a week and practice 1-2 hrs daily EXCEPT.... I live in the New England where I have forced down time due to winter. I want a sim in the house for winter practice and believe it would help tremendously. I get to travel to warmer areas of the country some in the winter due to my job and work in some rounds as often as I can. I hover around 8-10 mostly because I have no home course. The vast majority of golf I play is on a different course every time. Hard to get low doing that. However, I am focusing more on course management since that is my downfall. I research courses in advance of playing them and keep a notebook of each one in case I return to play there. I do tend to score better on courses I am familiar with, but still tend to make a couple of dumb choices each round that keep me from getting where I want to be. Nice article though. BT Sent from my XT1585 using MyGolfSpy mobile app
  8. Sky-marks are a right of passage. Those who put them on clubs MUST play a full year with it there before being allowed to repair it! It helps to remind them that you don't hit the ball there. It also warns off any other golfer when the guy says "Hey, mind if I hit one with your new (insert name of insanely high priced driver here)?" BT Sent from my XT1585 using MyGolfSpy mobile app
  9. Having played for 47 yrs, I tried a ton of putters with a lot of different tech. I had one of those huge McGregor's like Nicklaus used. Was the first high MOI putter I ever tried. Definitely helped with distance consistency (notice I didn't say distance CONTROL). Face tech though seems to be all about feel and the best roll you can produce. The first insert putters had firm rubber and the felt nice and soft. It helped some, but not me. I always felt I wasn't hitting the ball hard enough and continuously ran putts by. Soft metal inserts felt a bit better and I had more success with them. Face milling helped with the feel too, and then we got to the aggressive face milling. Literally a nobby face. Couldn't trust it. I kept thinking the nobs are catching different parts of the balls dimples and affecting my directional control. I settled on a smooth milled face mallet design that had considerable MOI and stayed with that for years. In late '17 I was reading about the Odyssey O-Works face tech of the bent spines that were able to give an almost total non-skid roll. I got the Red Mallet and it's been going head to head with my old mallets for over a year now. It seems to be dang near non-skid on everything but longer putts. Seems to have helped me inside 10' at least. Where I'm going with this overly long post is, the head is only part of the solution. Shaft type, shaft length, grip weight, grip size, grip taper, grip alignment, total weight, balance, etc. It all needs to be right for you. Unless you find the perfect fit, you'll never reach your full potential. BT Sent from my XT1585 using MyGolfSpy mobile app
  10. I grew up playing blades and persimmon woods. I still have several set of the woods and a couple of sets of irons. I get out and play with them a few times a year and you're right, other than a little distance loss, they great playing clubs. Welcome to the past!! BT Sent from my XT1585 using MyGolfSpy mobile app
  11. The whole problem with "off the shelf" drivers is they're built for the masses and only a few of us match that spec. I have never found a driver I couldn't hit well, once it had the proper shaft, weight and balence. BT Sent from my XT1585 using MyGolfSpy mobile app
  12. Your exactly right. If golfers would look at loft only in choosing their FWs, they would be a lot more successful. I usually recommend the following as a rule of thumb when looking at FWs: Driver distance - lowest FW loft 180-200 - 20 200-220 - 18 220-240 - 16 240-260 - 14 260+ - 12 Remember, these are just starting points. There will be some can go lower and some who can't use what I posted. Personally, I'm in the next to last group and play 13 to 14.5 as my strongest FW. However, I'm also a good FW player due to tons of practice and learning proper technique from the beginning. BT Sent from my XT1585 using MyGolfSpy mobile app
  13. Great thread! One thing I haven't seen mentioned is mixing tees based on conditions. Many don't notice it, but if you watch pro tournaments, they don't always hit from the rear tee box. The tournament committee often adjusts the teeing areas based on the conditions of the day (high winds, rain, etc). Once I noticed this, I started doing the same thing. Nothing's more frustrating than standing on a tee and knowing you can't clear a hazard or reach the fairway/green because the winds howling. So when I'm planning to play a course, I check what the wind is doing and adjust the tees I plan to play. I may play back tees downwind and a more forward tee into the wind. Makes the game a challenge without making it impossible. BT Sent from my XT1585 using MyGolfSpy mobile app
  14. I'll say the Mental Game is #1. Making bad decisions on the course costs me more than anything else. And, it's not as simple as you think! I am good with trouble shots which makes me try some shots that I really shouldn't try. But most of my lost strokes are by cutting normal shots too close to trouble. Clipping trees, being blocked on my next shot cause I want that extra 10 yds that REALLY didn't matter and rolling just into a trap or rough or water cause, again, I thought I needed to get as close as possible. Convincing myself to give trouble a WIDE ENOUGH berth costs me more strokes than anything. BT Sent from my XT1585 using MyGolfSpy mobile app
  15. KenMar, Modifying shafts as you described here is fine as long as the golfer can't tell the difference, and I will admit that many ams will not. However, the club will pay subtly different and may cause it to perform slightly off from the remainder of the set. It's always best to use the shafts the way they are designed to be used. I would suggest you find a comparable brand and model ASAP so you aren't stuck doing this in the future. BT Sent from my XT1585 using MyGolfSpy mobile app
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