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RI_Redneck

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About RI_Redneck

  • Birthday 10/03/1962

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New England
  • Interests
    Golf, Food, Travel.
  • Handicap:
    8
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    RI_Redneck

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  1. Lake of Isles North Course - Foxwoods Casino, CT - Course in Great condition! Played 18 alone behind groups. 78* wind 5-10 mph. Since play was slow, I got the chance to hit A LOT of practice shots with these irons. They also had their range open, so I got to warm up normally, which I had not been able to do previously. BTW, I don't think I mentioned it before, but I am playing the Vice Pro ball for all of this testing. It is the ball I have been playing the last 3 yrs and I know how it typically performs for me. During the course of play, I hit MANY approach shots with all irons from various distances (repaired ALL pitchmarks!!). I am still having distance control issues with all irons except 9i & PW. They seem to be consistent and slightly shorter than my MP5s by about 5 yds. I have also noticed spin issues with all clubs. The greens today were semi-firm (pitchmarks 1/2" deep) and I was seeing repeated 10'-15' rollout with the PW & 9i, and increasing on up. Not a problem on back pins, but front pins were a lost cause. I had one par 3 (50" drop to green), 179 to a front pin. I hit a hard 7i that hit just past the front edge and rolled (uphill) to within 5' of the back edge! I could only hold greens that had considerable back to front slope and was always left with a downhill put no matter what I tried. NOTHING pulled back with the JPX EZs. Not even the PW, four of which I hit into the same green (moderate back to front slope) from pristine fwy lies. Another issue is, I have yet to get 200+ with the 4i (22*) no matter what I do, although I HAVE hit the 5i over 200 a couple of times without even trying! So, don't know what's going on with that. In all, the irons were okay today. I had a few off-center shots and did notice them ending up short by 10 yds at least. I am still seeing nothing groundbreaking as far as accuracy over my other sets. I ended up 12 over and would have been FAR worse had my greenside wedge game not been really good. BT
  2. I used Maltby's MPF and converted it using this calculator (https://www.unitconverters.net/moment-of-inertia/ounce-square-inch-to-gram-square-centimeter.htm). HOWEVER, I just saw this video uploaded yesterday by Mark Crossfield that may have me cutting my experiment short. Absolutely Mindboggeling!! BT
  3. Second round with the SGIs. 5/17/20 Triggs Memorial GC - Providence Played 18 with my youngest son who is getting into the game after a young career in hockey. Course has been closed since early Feb (IIRC) due to COVID-19 and was reopened last week. Firm conditions and recently aerated greens (also firm). We've had a very wet spring and I'm looking for courses that drain well to keep from needing waders to play, LOL. Also, no courses have the ranges open, so I have to start off cold each time. I've gotten more accustomed to aiming the offset faces and most shots were either on target or slight push (common with everything I play). I am still having issues with distance control as I had shots that ended up both short and long. I also played a few draws and cuts which worked out fine. I'm beginning to think I shouldn't have soft-stepped the shafts because they feel a little soft at times. Lastly, the turf interaction is different with these heads than what I'm used to. They tend to bounce more than my other clubs. Most of my shots with the JPXs were mid-irons (4, 5 & 6) with one 8i on a short par 3. I didn't have any off-center shots, so I can't comment on the help of the tech for this round. I finished at +11 again. Looking forward to the next one. BT
  4. Never seen an LTD under 200. But all the others are about par. The F-Max Superlight is all about total weight, not clubhead weight. Shaft is around 48g as is the grip. All that together comes pretty close to the advertised 287g total weight. BT
  5. I only had one that was a bit heel-ward and it felt pretty much like they always do. Hard to grade the results though cause it took off left but got deflected to the front center of the green by a limb. Everything else was pretty much center and the feel is different than I'm used to. Playing again this coming Sunday. BT
  6. After participating in some of the blade/cavity discussions I decided to do a little experiment this year. I have used MB or players CB designs for the last several years, mostly from Mizuno and Cobra. After discussing and reading things in the previously mentioned threads, I decided to build me a set of high MOI irons and play the remainder of the year with them to see what difference it would make in my game. Most of my MB/PCB clubs have a clubhead MOI in the 2100-2500 range. I chose the Mizuno JPX EZ cast irons (with an MOI of 3400) because I like the brand and I can pass them on to my youngest son when I'm done with them. There were some Ping heads that were slightly higher, but cost was much higher and the clubhead MOI difference was marginal. As most know, I play graphite in my irons for pain reasons and I got some Matrix Program F15 120 S flex shafts to replace the stock steel ones. I built them up this past weekend using my preferred fitting parameters (SSx1 due to online reports of playing flex) and the ever-present Grip Master Master Perforated leather stitchback grips. In other words, when I swing these I can't tell them from all my other irons. I got my first round in yesterday at a local course (6400 yds) and wanted to give a first impression of the clubs. No ranges are open within an hour of my home due to COVID, so I was going out virgin other than dry swings in the garage. Because of hole length, I figured I wouldn't get to use these irons very many holes, so I decided to drop balls randomly as I played the round just to try some shots. I typically play a slight draw with my regular sets and I expected to have excessive draw issues with these due to the increased offset. However, that was not the case. I ended up with straight to slight push on most shots. I did play some intentional draws to flags and was able to pull these off in typical fashion. Feel at impact was a bit harder than I am used to, and the sound was a bit louder. I had, what I felt was, a 1-club wind on the back 9 and found these clubs seem to balloon more into the wind and fly farther with it, than I am used to. Something I'll have to bring into the equation as I get more rounds in. Proximity to pin avg was 37' (mostly short/long on back 9). Should get better once I'm more familiar with them. I ended up 11 over on the round mostly due to poor greenside shots on greens that were WAY FIRMER than anything else in my area. Had to resort to bump and run on almost all greenside pitches. As I get more rounds in, I will update this thread for those who might be interested. As I mentioned above, I am doing this to see IF playing a much higher MOI iron clubhead will have an actual impact on my scoring over time. Test Bag Mizuno ST190 9.5* - Diamana "Flowerband" Whiteboard 73 S @ 44.5" Mizuno ST190 14.5 - Aldila RIP Phenom 80 S @ 43" Epic Flash Heavenwood 19* - Aldila RIP Phenom 80 S @ 42" Mizuno JPX EZ (grey) 4-pw - Matrix Program F15 S SSx1 Mizuno MP-T5 52, 56 & 60 - TT Wedge Grips - Master Grip Master Perforated Midsize BT
  7. I have used leather grips for several years now. I like both Bestgrips and Gripmaster. As The Dr. mentioned above, the GM Kidds and Signature run light. They are also problematic if you want to build them up any. They are pretty tight on standard tape. I find the Roos, Master Perf and Tour Classic Perf Wraps run 50-51g in the standard size and have more room for expansion. I used to build up mine to about 1/16", which would make them play quite firm, except for the Roos. I have now moved to the Midsize Perf Wrap (58g +/-) which come out a little more cushy and easier on my arthritic hands. The Bestgrips all have what they call "Pro Taper" which means the grips are a bit thicker under the lower hand. Some don't like this, so be aware of it. But the guys at BG are some of the best to deal with if you're looking for something special. I have never had an issue with the stitching on the back of these grips. I find it hardly noticeable except on the midsize Montana Cows I have on my putters. The one thing I would say is a negative for ALL leather grips is that the butt cap can sometimes wear thin from removing and returning clubs to your bag. I find standing my bag straight up (when walking) to take them out and put them in helps a lot with this. I also like to wipe them down with a damp towel after playing so they are in pristine shape for the next round. However, if you get rough with them, they will wear through pretty quick. Lastly, I install all my grips using blue Painters tape, mild soap/water mix and air. I have changed several grips multiple times with no damage whatsoever and never had a slipping issue. BT
  8. Go with The Grip Master Perf Wraps for that classic look! You won't be disappointed with how they feel and perform. BT
  9. I have been installing mine using blue painters tape, light soap solution and air. If I decide to change shafts/clubs, I just blow them off and reinstall on the new ones. BT
  10. Like RickyBobby said above. They already hit small headed 3ws 300+, so reducing the driver head will only change things marginally. I still think conditions should become course specific instead of Tour specific. I remember reading an article a while back where a pro was commenting that his sand play ability was much lower, now, than what it was in College because the traps are conditioned the same on most of the courses they compete upon. In college, they were almost all different and he had to know how to play each type of sand. Imagine if they didn't have ball spotters and a gallery to tromp the rough down. Fairways that were inconsistent and greens that varied from course to course. In other words, play the same conditions we play. BT
  11. Even though they're 17-4 stainless, I'm seriously considering that. I don't want to change them if I don't have to though. I can probably get by with enough practice with them. I'm a range rat, so enough practice won't be a problem. Just picked up a set of Program F15 120 S to go in them and I have some grips at home. Should be interesting. BT
  12. I've been playing blades and players CBs for years and haven't found any difference in them. However, to actually SEE what a high MOI clubhead will do for me, I am contemplating doing a test. I checked the MOI on all of the irons I have at home and they are all in the 2000 - 2200 g/cm2 range. The JPX EZ head is measured at nearly 3500. I think I am going to get a used set of these, set them up with my preferred shafts and grips balanced to my taste and play the rest of this year with them. Work hard just like I do with my current sets. The biggest hurdle will be getting over the amount of offset they have. The lofts are a little stronger in the long irons, but not enough to cause a problem. Really curious to see what happens. BT
  13. Leather is the tackiest there is. Water and sweat don't affect them. Don't worry about the cost because they'll outlast 4 sets of any other grip. Best Grips and The Grip Master (now carried by Golfworks). BT
  14. Having used adjustable drivers since they came out and participated in countless discussions with others, with greater knowledge than mine of this topic, I have come to understand how these adjustments affect golfers. With movable weights, it has been published that the amount of weight must be in excess of 20g to move the actual CoG of the cluhead a significant amount. That means 20g TAKEN from one extreme location and moved to the opposite extreme location, not just simply adding 20g somewhere. Tests have shown that heel-toe movement, which should affect the closure rate of the face, makes less difference than face back movement, which can influence backspin and launch angle. We have seen this proven in several reviews of clubs over the last few years. Hosel adjustments, depending on the specific adapter, CAN affect Loft, Lie and Face Angle. The adapters change the angular relationship between the shaft and the clubhead, exactly like bending the hosel does. Early on, there were many discussions on whether these adjustments actually caused changes in loft OR Face angle, and it depended on the method used to measure the club. Some loft measuring practices suggest that wood heads be allowed to sole naturally, which will indicate a Face Angle change and NO measured Loft change. Others suggest the face be squared, which will indicate a Loft change. The Lie will change the same amount as the Loft with the U or D markings indicating a more upright lie and the F markings indicating a flatter lie. Actual Lie angle is typically indicated in the club specs on the manufacturer's website. With that being said, HOW these adjustments affect a golfer is dependent on the golfer themselves! With the Loft/Face Angle argument, it depends on whether the golfer delivers the face at the adjusted Face Angle OR physically squares it (as mentioned a few posts back). If the golfer allows the Face Angle change to stay in place when they swing the club, then left/right curvature will usually be changed. These golfers have been taught (or taught themselves) to allow the club to "sole out" or come to rest in a natural resting position when they place it on the ground to take their grip. These are the folks who are affected in some way when the club sits Open or Closed and may have issues controlling ball flight because of it. If the golfer squares the face, physically overriding the FA change, then the loft change will come into play. These golfers (which include myself) physically aim the clubface when taking their grip, much like most golfers do with their irons. Any measured Face Angle change is overridden by us holding the club in the position we choose. Personally, I don't take notice of how a Driver sits when deciding if I want to try it or not. BT
  15. RI_Redneck

    RI_Redneck

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