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RI_Redneck

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About RI_Redneck

  • Birthday 10/03/1962

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New England
  • Interests
    Golf, Food, Travel.

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    6

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  1. I use a mild Dawn Dishwashing soap/water solution from a spray bottle along with the blue 3M 2" painters tape. 1/2 teaspoon soap to 1 qt water and shake well. Add tape wraps to get the proper diameter desired, 4-5 sprays into the grip, pour out in bucket, spritz the taped shaft, work the grip onto the end of the shaft and apply air slowly to slide the grip on. Once it is completely seated, I hold it in place and apply air to blow as much soap solution out from under the grip as possible. The remaining dried layer of soap becomes sticky and does not degrade the adhesive on the tape. Been using this process for years and zero slippage. Grips come off easy too. BT
  2. The only REQUIREMENT for a grip is that it allows the golfer to have a secure grip on the club. Everything else is preference. I URGE all golfers to try all types and sizes as I have found that I play my best with a specific grip of a specific size and taper. Don't be afraid to use buildup tape to get a custom taper as it can matter a lot more than you think. You'll never know what works best if you don't try them. BT
  3. Driver only unless the tee box literally dirt. Been doing it for 40+ yrs. I never considered a tee a "perfect lie". It was simply a higher lie that allows me to hit up on the ball some. BT
  4. Cool thread. I don't get over here much (hang out in that other forum too much) but wanted to throw some info in here that I recommend to those hunting clubs whether they be drivers, FWs or what. People are very sensitive to weight and typically don't realize it. I see many struggling with a club only to find it is not weighted and/or balanced to their needs. Case in point, My ideal total weight range for driver is 310-350 grams. Ideal MOI is 2990 to 3060. If I get outside those numbers, problems start and get worse the further I go! I have at least 20 drivers in my collection that I can take out and hit fine any time. Only a few have the same shaft and they vary from R to TX and High, Mid and Low launch. I have adjusted the loft to suit the shaft so I get good launch numbers, but shaft profile has never been a big issue for me. One other spec I pay close attention to is torque because it affects my feeling of control with the club. High torque shaft (4° of higher) do not work for me because they just feel too "loose". Like I can't control the clubhead through impact. Probably just in my head, but yet it's there! All that being said, I NEVER test a club without a roll of lead tape with me. That way I can adjust it if needed and get it in my preferred weight range at the very least. Just something to think about when testing. BT
  5. No, just travel a lot. And, where a professional GETS all their money from golf, all of mine GOES to golf. So I guess that makes me an anti-professional! LMFAO!!! BTW, I'll post another weird aspect of my putting tonight when I get home and can take some pics of my putters. BT
  6. I'm sorry, but IMHO, the ball is on the ground, so I use my feet because they're also on the ground. But, eye dominance comes into play very often. What you must do is calibrate your eyes to see what is really there. Use alignment sticks, paint tape or whatever works, but KNOW where the ball is and your eyes will adjust to see it properly. I check this at EVERY range session and during warmup before every round. Watch the pros on the range and some of them will be doing it too. Another place were you have to constantly check yourself is target/body alignment. Several years ago I started suffering nasty snap hooks where I had been playing a nice draw. I had someone video me from behind and I had gotten SEVERAL degrees off line to the right, causing my path to be way too much in-to-out. Got back to correct alignment and all was good. Since then I ALWAYS use points on the ground to make sure I am actually aligned where I THINK I am. BT
  7. I moved from DG S300 Tapers to graphite several years ago and have a set of Recoil Proto 125 in F4 flex. They are a little firmer than the DG, but the torque is a bit higher so that makes them feel very similar TO ME. However, YMMV. It is always best to test one shaft in your favorite head before going whole-hog. BUT..... pay CLOSE ATTENTION to the weighting because it can be differently distributed and will affect performance. I liked them a few SW points higher than the DGs. Good luck! BT
  8. I would suspect that the inside material is for weighting. I run into it often when dealing with graphite iron shaft as they sometimes need it to SW properly with standard weight heads. BT
  9. As I always say, to each their own. Incidentally, I travel extensively and experience a high variability in course conditions. Much more than I expect a typical golfer would. I figure that has a lot to do with it. For instance, the first two weeks of Oct. I will be playing in CO, GA, MD & WV with variations in grasses, conditions, elevations and probably weather. BT
  10. Not necessarily a struggle, just striving for the highest consistency in every aspect. I tended to come up short more often than usual when facing slower greens (8 or lower). I tried lightening the head by about 10g and it helped as my normal effort equated to slightly more ball speed. In essence, I was able to putt a bit firmer using my normal stroke instead of having to re-calibrate (in my mind) excessively. On any given day, I usually first ask if the practice green compares well with the course greens. If so, I putt several 8-10 foot putts level, uphill and downhill. After that, I work at varying distances out to 40' with a single ball putting out each time to push myself to proper speed judgement. I usually spend about 20-25 mins on the putting green before going to the range. I like to go straight from the range to first tee so that full shots are freshest in my mind. Getting off the first tee well is paramount to a successful round for me. BT
  11. Curious about this thread because I have Odyssey V-Line mallets with both steel and Stroke Lab shafts. I have identical grips installed on both, they are exactly the same length and MOI. I find I putt well with both and the slight difference in feel doesn't matter to me. I use a SBST stroke with a traditional grip and the lead hand in a strong position (on top of the shaft - player view). My main struggle is speed control on varying surfaces and longer putts (30'+). In an effort to control this better, I have experimented with the weighting of the head using the removable sole weights (+/-20G). I find the heavier weight helps slow my stroke down on fast greens10-12 stimp) and the lighter weight gives me extra speed when on slow greens (9 and below). So I began carrying spare weights so I can adjust depending on course conditions. My experience is that it has helped with my performance when dealing with varying green speeds in general. Just curious if anyone else has found success or uses a lighter putter on slow greens and a heavier one for fast greens. BT
  12. The washers are easy to find. Putting them back on the screw inside the head is actually easy too, if you follow these steps 1. Get a Bic Stick pen and remove the tip so that you have the empty barrel. 2. wipe a thin layer of Vaseline on the open end of the pen barrel and place the washer on the end of the pen with the hole centered. 3. Insert the pen barrel/washer into the club hosel and press it firmly against the base (where the screw hole is). 4. While holding the pen barrel in there firmly against the base, insert the replacement screw through the hole and press until bottomed out. It will go inside the washer and all will be well. As mentioned a few responses back, check the screw with the adapter before doing this to make sure it hasn't been cross-threaded and in need of replacement. BT
  13. Google "Golf club whipping thread". BT
  14. Build up the grip 1/32" and choke down on it 1/2". You will accomplish the same thing. BT
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