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About RI_Redneck

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  • Birthday 10/03/1962

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    New England
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    Golf, Food, Travel.
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  1. Good to know. Couldn't for the life of me remember which clubs were involved with that practice. Thanks for clearing it up. BT
  2. IIRC, this is due to them using a metal ball to lock the shaft in the hosel. The ball diameter is just slightly more than the ID of the shaft. The ball was dropped in the hosel and then the shaft was inserted down as far as possible and then driven in the rest of the way with considerable force, forcing the shaft tip over the ball and compression locking it into place. Considerable force is usually needed to remove the shaft unless the ball is drilled out first using a long drill bit (I think Golfworks still stocks one). BT
  3. Get the adapter pulling kit from Golfworks and use a puller and quick heat with a micro torch. Have a damp towel to cool them off and they're fine for reuse. BT
  4. I use an overlap (Vardon) grip on all clubs. One finger on everything but the putter. On it I overlap two fingers and place my index finger down the shaft. If I use a low lofted club to chip (putting stroke) greenside, I will also use my putting grip. BT
  5. Just my $0.02, but be careful developing a driver swing that is so different from the swing you use with all your other clubs. The tendency is to fall somewhere in between and cause issues with all your clubs. Good luck, BT
  6. Leather works best. Best Grips or The Grip Master. Take your pick. BT
  7. Just practice putting like you would with your regular putter. EXCEPT..... don't use any other putter. As mentioned earlier, the Evnroll will give you slightly different speed feel. Using something else along with it will not work out. You have to commit to it. BT
  8. Left to right - Macassar Ebony, Bolivian Rosewood and Afzelia Burl (from Laos). I have one in Bubinga (African Rosewood) and a ton of blanks resting in storage. I used blanks 1"x2"x4" to make the heads. I got a great deal on a piece of Bubinga that was a full 2'x8'x48' back in '99 (still wasn't cheap, but very popular). I ended up making a Media PC Case out of some of it as well as some putters. Great wood to work with. BT
  9. As long as it still fills the gap, there is no NEED to replace it. However, we all like to have new stuff, just make sure you get what you NEED from a new one. BT
  10. Late to the party, but thought I would throw my $.02 in. Obviously, a putter doesn't have to look good to perform. But then it doesn't perform by itself! It works along with the golfer and the things important to the golfer make a difference in the performance of the equipment. Some of us want something that looks good when we look down at it. I am one of those people. These are my putters. Milled face, face balanced and properly weighted for my stroke. I designed them, built them and have used them since '99. All will need refinishing in the next year or two, but they still turn heads. They are heel/toe weighted mid-mallets with the main body made from various exotic woods. The wood part was actually hollowed out and filled with basswood which is extremely light, but rigid enough to play the part of the core of a putter. I built these back when Carbite was coming out with their high MOI putters. I never had these heads tested, but would like to. BTW, just in case anyone is wondering, I submitted one to the USGA and have paperwork stating that they conform to the rules of golf. BT
  11. I believe that placing the thumb of the lower hand on the top of the grip hinders the flexing of the wrist of the same hand, thus shortening the backswing to some degree. It affects people differently though and the feel is very different. BT
  12. I just spent the last two months trying to play with SGI irons (4i - PW). I have never had to try so hard to hit clubs consistently in my life. I don't know what it is about them, but I have to change so much just to get them to do what my MP5s do with almost no thought at all. I am 57 and an 8 with driver SS around 108. I would never suggest that SGI/GI clubs can not help a golfer, they just don't help me. If any OEM ever comes out with a SGI/GI club that I can hit easily, I will definitely get them. BT
  13. I've always liked my FWs to feel a bit heavier than my driver because I have to play them with a more descending AoA. I like to take a slight divot on FW shots and like them to feel more like my irons than my driver. I typically go up 10-20g. BT
  14. The test is officially over. I played one more round over the weekend and I'm done with these irons. The dry weather lately has many of our RI courses playing quite firm and the JPX EZs beat the crap out of my wrist. Even with the graphite shafts, I had annoying wrist pain Sunday morning. Results are no better and was still having trouble holding greens. I have removed the grips and installed them on my reshafted (Fuji Pro 115 S) black chrome MP14s. I will be removing the Matrix Program F15 S shafts soon and will put the stock TT XP 95 S shafts back in. If my son doesn't want them. they will be going on the BST. Sorry I had to cut things short, but it was getting kind of obvious that the clubs were not for me. BTW, after pain meds on Sunday, I went out yesterday with a customer in CT to a tight little course near Orange. Driver was a little sketchy since they didn't have a range to warm up on. Cost me two lost balls and two punch outs in the thick growth lining the course. But I hit 12 of 18 greens with my MP5s and ended up with a 78. It was nice to see that I hadn't suffered from the swing work with the other clubs. BT
  15. For sure. The ST180 rings like a bell (with hard balls) and the 190 is much quieter. I even hotmelted the 180 and it's still loud. I played the 180- yesterday and it made my eyes water a couple of times. Good results though! BT
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