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RI_Redneck

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About RI_Redneck

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  • Birthday 10/03/1962

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New England
  • Interests
    Golf, Food, Travel.
  • Handicap:
    8

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  1. I got out last Thursday afternoon for a cool January round at Triggs Memorial in Providence. I took the new 47.5" Speedzone build and my ST180 which I have been using most of this year. I started the front 9 with only the screws in the Speedzone head (192g head weight - D5) to see how it would compare. Not many folks on the course, so I was able to hit both drivers off all of the par 4s & 5s. Carry was longer with the long driver and end results seemed to be around 15 yds longer depending on fairway contour. Flight was beautiful! High (but not too high) and piercing! Working the ball was m
  2. I switched at about 50 (58 now), but did not drop in flex. I did it for the pain. I was in the position of either changing or quitting the game. Graphite shafts were a life saver and I am playing better than ever. I also stayed in the 120-115g range. BT
  3. About a year ago, I built an overlength driver using a Cobra F7 head and an Aldila Copper Mamba 70X. I built it at 47.5 and used the lightest weights I could get (2g). I played it for a few months and even though I had some great drives with it, the balance of the club never seemed to suit me. I ended up taking it down to my regular 44.5" length in the end and reweighting the head to feel right. Still a great driver that I keep in one of my playing bags. After reading/posting in some recent overlength driver threads and watching the "Bryson affect", I decided I wanted to give it a
  4. Not interested. I've gotten to where I don't care for sliding weights. BT
  5. Thanks for pointing that out. I don't want to get a lifetime ban or anything. I cleaned it up. BT
  6. I decided to put this together in response to all of the “Fitting Gone Bad” threads I have read over the years. As we all have seen, golf club fitting processes vary considerably. Some are extremely thorough and others are far from it. However, if those seeking a fitting will do their homework take certain precautions, they can greatly turn the odds in their favor! With that, I have put together the following suggestions. Are You Ready? Getting a fitting is never cheap. The worst thing that can happen is to spend the money and time, but come away still unhappy. The fi
  7. I'm sure your coach knows how to coach, but he's not a clubfitter. If the driver feels considerably lighter, then it needs to be reweighted. Add lead tape to the head till they feel the same and then you won't be having to swing the clubs differently. As for ball position, the driver should be no more than 2" in front of the 5w, maybe less. BT
  8. First question. Does your driver feel very different, in weight, balance or flex, than the 5w? If so, get some lead tape and work on the driver till it feels right. Odds are, that will straighten things out. Second, do you swing the driver differently than the 5w ie swing up on driver and down on 5w. If so, then you could be attempting to hit up too much on the driver. Your driver swing should not feel a lot different than your FW swing. The difference should be primarily ball placement and you should be making the same swing. If neither of these seem to be the issue, THEN go to a fi
  9. LOL. Yeah, I've seen that too many times. I tend to like to give them what-for when it happens too. Just did today in a discussion. My Father-in-law used to beat the crap out of me and never drive the ball over 220. I learned a lot from him. BT
  10. No worries. I just see lots of folks attempting to get a decent launch difference by switching shafts and it just doesn't happen. Loft will give a much more substantial change. Cheers! BT
  11. I didn't see any reason the OP should be restricted to a 5w. Since the loft is the important factor in getting a FW that launches properly for his swing and fills the distance that it needs to fill, it could be a 4w, 5w, 7w or 9w that fits the situation best. They're all just FWs with lofts stamped on them these days anyway. BT
  12. Absolutely relevant. We are all different and taking those measurements will never hurt. Fitters should also look at the players swing to see if they should have lessons to fix a fault that will affect the fitting. The customer should also be wearing golf attire and the golf shoes they play in. Going into a fitting wearing a long sleeve business shirt and leather soled flats is not a good idea BT
  13. A cheap set of calipers from Home Depot will tell you. BT
  14. Remove, clean, buy new shaft, cut new shaft, re weight, and install. Done right, takes 20-30 minutes per club. When you look at it that way, $67 actually sounds reasonable. These shops are selling their time and knowledge. Proper education of a clubfitter is a years long process. All of this figures into the cost of the work. CC is considered boutique, so they are somewhat higher than the independent fitter. Not sure on the specifics of their business model either, but stocking all those shafts and constantly getting the latest is REALLY expensive. And let's not even consider the $15k lau
  15. Give each shaft a good blast of WD40 before installing to prevent rust buildup. Shafts tend to rust really bad with these inserts for some reason. BT
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