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Everything posted by RI_Redneck

  1. Unless I'm reading this wrong, he is saying the same thing I said relating to the swing. BT
  2. You DO NOT have to change your swing to hit up on the ball. Just change the ball's position in your stance so that the club contacts it after reaching the low point in the swing. I mentioned changing ball position in my post which will change the AoA with the same swing. If the golfer benefits from a positive AoA, then they just need to move the ball forward until their normal swing presents that AoA to the ball at contact. This does not REQUIRE any more tilt, but may require a slight grip adjustment to get the face square (or desired FA if not square) at impact. BT
  3. After reading this entire thread, I have a few comments: 1. Could everyone please go to Youtube and pull up their favorite PGA/LPGA pro. Then look for them hitting driver and them hitting 3w. Now, tell me if the swings look different? They don't. BALL POSITION may be different, but the swing is the same. As a matter of fact, it looks the same as just about all of their full shots regardless of the club. This is what has gotten in so many golfers heads... that they have to swing the driver different from any other club. It is THE SAME SWING with slightly different ball position. You use a tee because the COG of the head is too high to be practical off the ground. 2. IF your driver FEELS different from your 3w/other clubs.... THAT'S A PROBLEM! Have it weighted to feel the same. It's hard to SWING the same with clubs that don't feel the same. Many think length of drivers is a problem. I built a 47.5" driver back in the spring and it is as easy to hit as my regular 44.5" drivers. Sure, dispersion is a bit wider, but only cause the ball is going further. It is weighted so that it feels like all my other drivers. Proper balance promotes better and more consistent contact. 3. For those who say they have issues hitting anything other than the driver off a tee, I say don't. Yes, the golden rule is always to try to get the perfect lie on every tee box. However, that doesn't necessarily involve a tee. Unless the teeing area is rock hard, I simply tap up a bump of turf with the toe of my club and place the ball on it. It's the same height as a low tee and you don't have the impact resistance that is sometimes felt when the club hits the tee. It also give you confidence to hit those FWs off the deck like they are supposed to be hit. 4. Correct Loft - The OP is using the EFSZ which is a low spin head. When the ball is contacted center to high center, spin is typically very low. Even when the loft is set to it's highest. I play the King LTD Pro which is also low spin. My CHS is around 110 right now and I play the loft at the maximum 10° setting. My typical contact point is center to just above center and sometime the random slight heel center with an AoA of no more than +1°. Even into a good headwind, I get a very piercing flight with about a 12° LA. I see a lot of golfers wanting to play low spin heads at lower loft settings and then trying to hit massively up on the ball to get their desired LA while minimizing spin. This is totally unnecessary. My ball spin numbers are in the low 2000's and I never have balls balloon with my driver. Make the driver fit your swing, not your swing fit the driver. Lastly, Decade says to play the longest shot without getting in trouble. Many times that's a FW, hybrid or iron. Watch the pros, the SMART ones play what gives them the best chance of hitting the green with the next shot. On courses where the rough is extremely penal, they shoot for the fairway. On courses where the rough is not penal, they play for best position. BT
  4. Would love to give the T100 a try. See if they could kick my Mizunos out of the bag! BT
  5. I have to say sorry to everyone cause I haven't been posting to this thread in a while. I have been putting the 47.5" Cobra SZ / HZRDUS Yellow through the ringer and I have to say, it works great. After getting used to the length, my shot pattern is no worse than any of my regular length drivers and distance is 15-25 yds better. I settled on the original SW and MOI that I mentioned in an earlier post and it is completely comfortable to swing through an entire round. Feel is literally identical to my other drivers if I close my eyes. I did raise the loft up to 9.5 because draws were flying a little lower than I wanted. One other thing that I have noticed is that I have to start my backswing slightly more outside than all my other clubs to get nice straight shots. I think it's because my plane is so much flatter with that length that it makes me come too much from the inside if I start back just like I do with my shorter clubs. Anyway, this build is a definite winner for me. BT
  6. I learned to play FWs this way and have never changed. I simply bump the turf up about 1/8" on the teeing area and place the ball on that. I've never hit a FW off a tee my whole life. I also have never had a problem hitting any FW I tried. Some of the things I've found that make playing a FW easier are: Heavier shafts - I like a FW shaft to be at least 10-20g heavier than my driver shaft. I play most of my clubs at around D6 and like 80-90g shafts for my FWs. Open (measured) Face angle - I like to play my FWs with the same swing as my mid and long irons. However, FWs have a MUCH wider sole than irons. A FW with an open FA gives you a much smaller part of the sole contacting the ground when the club is squared up to the ball. This makes it much easier to swing down through the ball and let the loft do the work. I always have a shallow divot after a FW shot. Proper loft - I find it best to forget the whole 3w, 4w, etc naming and just find the lofts that work best for you. If 16.5 is the lowest you can get good trajectory with, then don't try going any lower. Your swing should designate the loft you use on your FWs. Practice - Someone mentioned several posts back about practicing your FWs. DO IT and don't use a tee. Hit them off the deck like they are designed to be hit. The more you practice, the more confidence you will have with them. BT
  7. First off, I grew up in the "steel shaft" era, so everything is lighter now. However, I find that I need a certain amount of total weight and swing heft in order to get the most out of MY swing. I urge all golfers to do the necessary research to find out what is best for them because, as we all know, everyone is different. Personally, I am 58 yrs old, have been playing since I was 10. I have a very grooved swing and have a driver CHS of 108-112 mph. My tempo is smooth, but not as slow as our Masters Champion who was mentioned earlier. I almost pause at the top, but try not to think about it. All of my drivers are in the 330g range and have shafts that weigh anywhere from 65g to 95g. I hit them all about the same, but like some more than others. I don't sell anything when I get new stuff, so yeah, I have a lot of clubs. I checked the MOI on all of my drivers this spring when I got my MOI Auditor and most were very close. Those that were off, are now where they should be and hit better as a result. I am what has been called many times an extremely good fairway wood player. Not my words, just the comments I have received when playing. In the early graphite days (late 80's & 90's) I used 90-100g shafts in my FWs. I have moved to 80-90g in my current gamers and get CHS only a few MPH slower than my driver. I almost always take a divot or at least disturb the gras when hitting a FW shot. Only in the desert on the stiff Bermuda grass do I not. I was always taught to hit down on my FWs and my results seem to prove that to be sound advice. I feel this is why I like a heavier shaft in my FWs. It just gives me the feeling I have heft in the club to swing through that turf on the followthrough. All that being said, the question is "Should YOU use a heavier shaft in your FW?" My answer is..... That's a good question. Perhaps you should try some and see! BT
  8. Sorry I've been away for a bit and haven't updated this thread. I didn't want to leave just the screws in the weight pockets, so I had to make a couple of 2g weights out of HDPE because I couldn't find any online. I've recently gotten some free time for range work and one round with my son last Sunday. I still have the Speedzone/HZRDUS Yellow combination at 47.5 and it's actually working pretty well. Even with my stiff joints and the 40-50° temps we are having, I'm getting around 260 carry on well struck drives. I tend to catch one high on the face every now and then which gives a bit less, but accuracy has been pretty good. The swing feel is really pretty close to my other drivers that are at 44.5, but I can still tell I'm swinging something longer. Time will tell if this becomes my gamer for serious play. BT
  9. I got out last Thursday afternoon for a cool January round at Triggs Memorial in Providence. I took the new 47.5" Speedzone build and my ST180 which I have been using most of this year. I started the front 9 with only the screws in the Speedzone head (192g head weight - D5) to see how it would compare. Not many folks on the course, so I was able to hit both drivers off all of the par 4s & 5s. Carry was longer with the long driver and end results seemed to be around 15 yds longer depending on fairway contour. Flight was beautiful! High (but not too high) and piercing! Working the ball was more difficult, but I chalk that up to just not being used to hitting it. When I got to the back 9, I replaced the screws with the 4g weights I had ordered. This increased head weight by 4g and I could tell the difference immediately. It was definitely MORE heavy feeling, but not TOO heavy. I didn't notice any more distance or level of control, so the jury is still out on what weights are going to work best. Will hopefully hit it some more this week. BT
  10. I switched at about 50 (58 now), but did not drop in flex. I did it for the pain. I was in the position of either changing or quitting the game. Graphite shafts were a life saver and I am playing better than ever. I also stayed in the 120-115g range. BT
  11. About a year ago, I built an overlength driver using a Cobra F7 head and an Aldila Copper Mamba 70X. I built it at 47.5 and used the lightest weights I could get (2g). I played it for a few months and even though I had some great drives with it, the balance of the club never seemed to suit me. I ended up taking it down to my regular 44.5" length in the end and reweighting the head to feel right. Still a great driver that I keep in one of my playing bags. After reading/posting in some recent overlength driver threads and watching the "Bryson affect", I decided I wanted to give it another go. This time I'm using a Cobra Speedzone head and a Project-X HZRDUS Yellow 60X. The Speedzone head with adapter and no weights came in at 188 change (2 weight ports) which is the same as the F7 (three weight ports), so the 1 less weight port will allow me to go a shade lighter in headweight with the build. I did some preliminary testing once my bench was usable. I prepped the tip and trimmed the b u t t to give me 47.5 with the grip. I installed a Master Grip Classic Wrap Midsize (61g) using air and painters tape, then shimmed the head on with fishing line so that it was tight in the playing position. I only have the 6g and 18g weights that came with the driver at the moment, so I removed one of the screws from the weights to see what they weighed. It came in at 2g, so I started with only a screw in each port because I think that's as low as I will be able to go if I modify the weights I have coming. My ST180 Gamer driver is 44.5", 337.2g total weight, D6 with an MOI of 3025.9. The Speedzone with just screws in the ports @ 47.5" was 319.6g total weight, D1.5 (HZRDUS Yellow CB shaft) with an MOI of 3095.1. When waggled it felt a bit light, so I decided to see what I got with the 6g and a screw to mirror the two 4g weights I have coming. This brought the total weight up to 323.5, SW to D5 and the MOI to 3131.5. I installed the adapter this morning and while it was curing, I tested my other gamer drivers to get a comparison of MOI with the lot. The results are: ST180 / Kai'Li 70S @ 44.5" D6 - 3025.9 ST190 / OG WB 73S @ 44.5 D6 - 3044.2 LTD / Hzrdus Blk 7S @ 44.5" D6 - 3072.4 Now, I hit all of these drivers really well, so apparently, the variance in MOI doesn't affect me that much. Who knew? Also during curing, I removed the MG Classic Wrap Midsize and installed an MG Classic Wrap Std w/ buildup tape. When the adapter had cured, I put the shaft in the head with only the 2 screws (4g total). This brought the total weight of the driver to 310g @ 47.5, gave me a D5 SW and an MOI of 3107. Waggling it, the headweight feels better than it did with the midsize grip. Considering the MOI is not much higher than my gamers, this might just work. I will try to get out an hit some balls as soon as I am out of COVID quarantine and I catch a warm day. BT
  12. Not interested. I've gotten to where I don't care for sliding weights. BT
  13. Thanks for pointing that out. I don't want to get a lifetime ban or anything. I cleaned it up. BT
  14. I decided to put this together in response to all of the “Fitting Gone Bad” threads I have read over the years. As we all have seen, golf club fitting processes vary considerably. Some are extremely thorough and others are far from it. However, if those seeking a fitting will do their homework take certain precautions, they can greatly turn the odds in their favor! With that, I have put together the following suggestions. Are You Ready? Getting a fitting is never cheap. The worst thing that can happen is to spend the money and time, but come away still unhappy. The first thing to make sure of is your swing. If you have serious swing flaws and are working to fix them, it’s not time to get fitted. Your swing is going to change for the better and it’s best to wait until you get to that point before spending money on a fitting. However, if you have serious swing flaws and just want to play the best you can WITH THOSE FLAWS, then getting fitted might just help. But remember to be realistic. There’s only so much you can do with equipment to compensate for shortcomings in the swing. The best candidates for a fitting are (1) golfers with a grooved swing that have never been fitted, (2) golfers who have been fitted but have had their game affected by age and/or health issues and (3) golfers who were fitted and have gained strength/ability since the last fitting. All of these golfers are most likely playing with clubs that don’t fit their games very well. A huge percentage of golfers play “off the rack” clubs. Some may have been fortunate enough to find the right clubs for their swing, but the odds are stacked against them. Golfers who have been previously fitted, but have encountered swing speed or ability changes will typically need a re-fitting, but again, we have to be realistic. Odds are, new equipment can’t bring back the performance you had if you’ve lost considerable swing speed. Educate Yourself! Knowledge is power and the more you know about equipment, the better you can participate in the fitting and good fittings ALWAYS require customer participation. Read through the equipment and fitting threads here at MGS and use the search feature to find older threads that can still be relevant. Knowing the particulars about heads, shafts, grips, epoxy and processes will be priceless when discussing options with the fitter. Also, knowing how to describe your swing and club feel is extremely important. Clear precise descriptions of what you feel, along with the launch monitor data, let the fitter know when progress is being made. Finding a Fitter. As I mentioned in my opening paragraph, fitting processes can vary a lot. It’s best to use a fitter as close to where you live as possible as subsequent visits are often needed to get things just right. Many times your clubs may need to be fine tuned after the fitting and proximity is a big deal. Usually places like Club Champion or Golf-Tec have considerable reviews online that are easy to find. However, getting information about independent fitters is often more difficult. Wishongolf.com has a great selection of fitters that have been vetted by Tom himself and they carry other brands along with his. Online forums are also a great place to ask questions and find out about these fitters from actual customers. Also, don’t be shy to contact the fitters and ask them questions prior to setting up a fitting. Checking to see what type of launch monitor they use and what products they carry will help you decide which fitter is best for you. Come Prepared. You’re about to make a sizable investment in your golf equipment and golf game. You and the fitter both want a successful fitting. Make sure to bring your own clubs and balls, dress as if you were going to play and make sure to bring your golf shoes. You’re not going to play golf in a fitted shirt, tie and dress shoes, so don’t show up at the fitting wearing them. I recommend eating least an hour before your fitting and avoid eating a heavy meal. No one swings their best with a pound of ribs and a few beers in their belly. It’s also a good idea to bring a bottle of water, especially if it is a full bag fitting. Lastly, bring a zip lock bag with the following items: A roll of lead tape, A small sealed bottle of alcohol and 2 small pieces of cotton cloth (maybe 4” square). It’s possible the fitter will be prepared to do reweighting during the fitting, but if not, YOU ARE! LM numbers play a huge roll in fitting, but so does the feel of the club to the golfer. If the feel of the club can’t be changed to suit you during the fitting, the odds of failure are greatly increased. Pace Yourself and Communicate. Make sure to warm up the same way you do before a round. If you stretch before playing, stretch before the fitting. Get your golf muscles ready to perform at their best. Remember that the more you swing, the more your swing can change due to fatigue. Take frequent breaks so that fatigue doesn’t set in. If you feel yourself getting tired, let the fitter know. A 1 hour fitting doesn’t have to be continuous. Taking a 15 min break in there while the fitter takes care of other work can be greatly beneficial. Pay close attention to the swing, club and ball data, but also let the fitter know if you feel you have to do anything extra to make the club work. The fitter can easily see the data, but they can’t know what you’re feeling unless you tell them. The better the club fits your swing, the more effortless it will feel to swing. If you feel you have to manipulate the club to square the face or swing harder than usual to load the shaft, let the fitter know immediately. Get your DATA! Lastly, you’re paying to find out what works for your swing, so make sure you get a full report of your data to take with you. You want a record of club and ball data so you’ll have it for reference in future fittings or if you happen to want to try other equipment. BT
  15. I'm sure your coach knows how to coach, but he's not a clubfitter. If the driver feels considerably lighter, then it needs to be reweighted. Add lead tape to the head till they feel the same and then you won't be having to swing the clubs differently. As for ball position, the driver should be no more than 2" in front of the 5w, maybe less. BT
  16. First question. Does your driver feel very different, in weight, balance or flex, than the 5w? If so, get some lead tape and work on the driver till it feels right. Odds are, that will straighten things out. Second, do you swing the driver differently than the 5w ie swing up on driver and down on 5w. If so, then you could be attempting to hit up too much on the driver. Your driver swing should not feel a lot different than your FW swing. The difference should be primarily ball placement and you should be making the same swing. If neither of these seem to be the issue, THEN go to a fitter. BT
  17. LOL. Yeah, I've seen that too many times. I tend to like to give them what-for when it happens too. Just did today in a discussion. My Father-in-law used to beat the crap out of me and never drive the ball over 220. I learned a lot from him. BT
  18. No worries. I just see lots of folks attempting to get a decent launch difference by switching shafts and it just doesn't happen. Loft will give a much more substantial change. Cheers! BT
  19. I didn't see any reason the OP should be restricted to a 5w. Since the loft is the important factor in getting a FW that launches properly for his swing and fills the distance that it needs to fill, it could be a 4w, 5w, 7w or 9w that fits the situation best. They're all just FWs with lofts stamped on them these days anyway. BT
  20. Absolutely relevant. We are all different and taking those measurements will never hurt. Fitters should also look at the players swing to see if they should have lessons to fix a fault that will affect the fitting. The customer should also be wearing golf attire and the golf shoes they play in. Going into a fitting wearing a long sleeve business shirt and leather soled flats is not a good idea BT
  21. A cheap set of calipers from Home Depot will tell you. BT
  22. Remove, clean, buy new shaft, cut new shaft, re weight, and install. Done right, takes 20-30 minutes per club. When you look at it that way, $67 actually sounds reasonable. These shops are selling their time and knowledge. Proper education of a clubfitter is a years long process. All of this figures into the cost of the work. CC is considered boutique, so they are somewhat higher than the independent fitter. Not sure on the specifics of their business model either, but stocking all those shafts and constantly getting the latest is REALLY expensive. And let's not even consider the $15k launch monitor they have in each bay. So, yeah, it an expensive endeavour. The best thing a potential customer can do is: 1. Make sure your swing is where it needs to be. If you are currently working with a pro to change it, DON'T GET FITTED TILL YOU'RE DONE! 2. Communicate with the fitter and make sure he realizes that you want the clubs to feel right as well as work for you. I see many come from fittings saying they just don't feel right. That should NEVER happen. 3. Make sure there is a fine tuning option so that you can return after trying them on the course and needing some tweaking. A clubfitter's reputation is their biggest asset. They want it to be right every time. BT
  23. Give each shaft a good blast of WD40 before installing to prevent rust buildup. Shafts tend to rust really bad with these inserts for some reason. BT
  24. I've always been of the mindset that the driver swing is just like my iron swing, I just have the ball placed a little more forward in my stance. I watch them on video and the backswing is also a little longer with the driver, but the motions are all identical. Never had a problem. BT
  25. Early on I sliced the ball like many do. I fought this by trying to train my hands to roll through impact. After decades of inconsistency, I decided that I would progressively make my grip stronger until I didn't have to do anything with my hands when swinging. Now, I just take my grip based on the shot I plan to hit (fade, straight or draw) and swing the club. Happy to say that my consistency is tons better and I am now playing some of the best golf of my life. Experiment to find what works. BT
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