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RI_Redneck

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Everything posted by RI_Redneck

  1. Yeah, I have a bad habit of thinking everyone else is as into this game as I am. Like when I found what worked best for me, I wanted to know why it did. What parts of the combination were key. Sure as heck saves a ton of time when testing things! BT
  2. I will defer. Yes, if you are all around the clubface, current drivers DO offer a bit more MOI benefit that some older drivers. I guess I also tend to think posters here have, at least SOME idea of what their ideal specs are. Swing weight, total weight shaft profile, etc. Perhaps not, but comparing clubheads using different specs is not really comparing clubheads. It's comparing clubs which may or may not be right for you. BT
  3. I used to have a REALLY loose grip at address. But found something later in life that caused me to re-think it. It also has something to do with the fingers / palm argument. Before I start, I agree whole 100% that the grip is a very personal thing and everyone has to fined their own. That being said, here is my experience. I began playing at 10yrs and was taught the standard interlocking grip with Vs pointing at my right shoulder (righty). I was quite athletic and played baseball a lot. Needless to say I struggled with a slice for years. At 23 (1985), I got my first set of custom fitted irons (if you want to call them that) I got a grip lesson during and the fitter recommended I rotate my right hand more weak and focused on rolling my hands through impact. The guy was well recommended, so I took his advice. Now, this felt completely different to the swinging motion I used for years in baseball. However, I stuck with it. My consistent slice be an erratic anything from slice to hook since I had difficulty timing the rolling of my hands. Over time I got fairly good control and could keep the ball in play most of the time. Keep in mind I had a CHS in the mid 120's and hit the ball a pretty good distance. So OB was a common thing I had to deal with unless the course was wide open. I played with this setup until I got to the age of appox 38. At that point I had been watching PGA players for a long time and noticed that most had a stronger left hand than I did. I decided to change my grip. Being a father of 4 and not having a lot of spare cash, I obviously didn't take lessons. I spend a great deal of time at my cousins driving range working my grip stronger. Everything was way left because I was still rolling those hands through impact. I eventually realized that I needed to stop rolling my hands. After a couple of years re-training myself, I got it in pretty good control. But it seemed every time I wanted to really crank one, I would hook it off the planet. As is taught now, I would always take a really relaxed grip when going for extra distance. At that time, I gripped the club mostly in my fingers and after some research, figured out that if I squared the clubface at address with my grip loose, it would close several degrees when my grip tightened during the swing. I did some more research on grips and figured out I was too much in the fingers. My fingers were usually perpendicular to the shaft if I looked at them from below. I changed my grip to where they were more at a 45* angle and the hooking issue was greatly lessened. Adjusting the face alignment to be square when my grip tightened gave me perfect control. I also found during experimentation that it was possible to have my grip TOO LOOSE. I like to push the club back with my left hand to start the backswing and found I didn't have good control if my grip was too loose. I found I hit the ball best when I have relaxed arms and slight tension in the last 3 fingers of my left hand. I am playing the best golf of my life now and really wish I had known what to look for initially. It would have saved me a lot of frustration. BT BTW, when looking through some of the links above, I stumbled upon this - http://kelvinmiyahiragolf-articles.com/index.php/articles/articles-2/2015-articles/144-2015-instinct-golf This is literally exactly what I discovered over the years and how I found my grip.
  4. I understand many relate sound with feel, but I've always considered "feel" as information I get through my hands and "sound" as information I get through my ears. They're different. That being said, A solid center shot on any club typically gives me nearly nothing through my hands. The ball just goes. Off-center shots, OTOH, give considerable feedback in the form of vibration. As for sound, the softer the club the quieter the sound at impact. Played some AP1s a couple of years ago and they sounded somewhat clicky, much like the MP25s I have. My MP4s, MP5s, MP69s and Cobra ACPs are much quieter on center impacts. BT
  5. IF you want more ball speed, don't look at drivers. They're maxed out. Work on more swing speed! BT
  6. I was taught long ago how to use FWs. A FW should give you the distance you need and be designed so that you can use it for any shot you need from that distance. That being said, I have always sought out FWs with a slightly open FA and the loft I need to get the distance & trajectory I want. I've played a ton of FWs in the last 40+ yrs and the one thing I can attest to with all of them is that you have to have the right combination of loft, FA, weight and shaft flex to get the results I'm looking for. Being in my late 50's with a driver SS around 108, I prefer all my clubs in the D5-D6 range and I typically like an 80-90 gm mid-launch shaft for my FWs. I also prefer adjustable FWs now because I can set them to have the loft and FA combination that works best for me. I find an open FA makes if far easier to work the ball both ways because the sole doesn't work against opening the face to fade the ball. I currently play my 3ws at 13* TO 14.5* depending on whether the head is med or low spin. I get great results with my current gamer King LTD set at 14.5* but have to go down to 13* with my older, higher spinning heads like the Amp Cell or Bio Cell. I believe if players would focus more on the proper combination of specs than BS marketing, they would find their FWs far easier to use successfully. BT
  7. I'm an ex clubmaker with the kids grown and gone and too much time on my hands. On top of that, I have a Mizuno blade fetish. Needless to say, I have several sets that are all identically matched and I tend to pull whichever set I feel like playing on any given day. Sounds weird I know, but I've been that way for several years. Current favorite is the MP5/RIP Tour 115 R set. Others are: MP4/Matrix Prog 130 S MP15/RIP Tour 115 R MP25/Recoil Proto 125 F4 MP69/RIP Tour 115 S (DSS) MP14 (black chrome)/Fuji Pro 115 S (not shafted yet) Cobra Amp Cell Pro/RIP Tour 115 R (oldest playing set) BT
  8. Holy Crap! RIP Tour 115 R is my shaft of choice and they're a rare as hens teeth. I bought the last three 4i-W sets I found a few years ago and can't find any more to save my life. If yours are new and you decide to let them go, please contact me. BT
  9. Hotmelt is great when it's needed. Especially for quieting really loud drivers. However, I prefer to use tip weights or heavier clubhead weights if at all possible when trying to get to a proper feel because it is so difficult to get the glue out if you overdo it. One always has to be careful, but hotmelt definitely has it's place in club fitting. BT Sent from my XT1585 using MyGolfSpy mobile app
  10. Yeah, splintering has to be due to improperly coned hosel. I like to cone well and install collared ferrule. BT
  11. If anyone is interested in using leather grips, I have been installing both Master Grip and Best Grip leather grips for years using blue painters tape and air. You just have to be aware of shaft butt diameter and how much tape you want to use. Keep the pressure below 80 lbs and use short bursts through a pointed tip (1/8" hole max) to keep from popping them. If they seem tight when you start, stop immediately, remove the grip and measure the shaft butt. The underlisting is thinner than a normal grip and if you go at it too hard, you will ruin an expensive grip! BT
  12. Considering half of the game is played with the putter for most of us, it only makes sense that it should be one of the FIRST clubs you get fitted for! Odd how so many seem to forget about it. BT
  13. Shaft epoxy is what is typically used. I haven't used powder and cork in 30 yrs. I just install a finely weighed tip weight. BT
  14. I'm with McGolf. Things look fine with the numbers provided. Speeds and distances are consistent, which is a huge plus! If your dispersion is good, I see no need to look any further. UNLESS.... you think they need to FEEL different (and I urge you to be VERY careful with this). FEEL is a very personal thing and it can cause issues weeks or months into the future. With that, seeing a fitter would be a benefit as long as you use your current clubs as a solid baseline. Also, be very careful what you listen to. I fitted a fellow back in the 90's with a set that he played very successfully. Shafts were DG R300 which gave him the ideal flight and carry for his swing. All was good UNTIL, some random guy he was playing with one day, looked at his clubs and told him, he had no business playing R shafts. Those few words got in his head and he lost total confidence in the clubs in a matter of weeks. I tried for weeks to remind him how well he played with them up until that moment, but he couldn't recover. I eventually had to reshaft his clubs with S flex of the same shaft and he was okay (I really thought about just changing the shaft bands, but he was a good friend of mind and if he found out, he would never forgive me). Just a few yards shorter through the set due to a slightly lower ball flight. BT
  15. The thing I found the most interesting is how he pushed the first shot with the heaviest club and hooked the first shot with the lightest club. Even though they had the same SW! I like to look at the first shots because he has no chance to alter his swing to how the club feels. Both clubs D4.5 and static weight is 41+g difference. He mentioned that heavier tends to inhibit him closing the face and lighter tends to promote him closing the face. Goes to show how important total weight is compared to SW. Great video! BT
  16. I was taught to play with an interlocking grip with the Vs pointing at my right shoulder (righty). I used this grip for 20-25 yrs. When I was young and generating tons of CHS, it was fine. I was a picker and hit the ball a mile high, but I always struggled with directional control though. When I hit my late 30's and started to lose some distance, I decided to try playing a bit stronger grip. Must have took me 2 yrs to unlearn all the stuff I had to do to hit with my original grip, but once I figured it all out, I started hitting the ball LOTS better. I play far better now than I ever did then. Left hand I can see 3 knuckles at address and the V points at my right elbow. Right hand, however, is literally where it always was with the V pointing at my right shoulder. I overlap now of course because interlocking just doesn't feel right. If I let the right hand go stronger, I start losing them left. This grip allows me to swing as easy or as hard as I want with no adjustment at all. I use the same grip with every club except putter. Drivers, irons, wedges, sand, whatever. It's just automatic and there is NOTHING I have to remember when swinging. Just set up to the shot I want to hit and go. BT
  17. The par 3s ranged from 30 yds (3,8,16) to 40 yds (11) differential. On #3, I put the shorter tee shot in the left trap. Making a nice sand save and lipping out the birdie putt for the other ball made it a tie. Potential was definitely favoring the long ball though. #1 is 60 yds different and almost 400 from the blue tees. I had a crap first drive from the tips and a good 3w from the blues (avoiding the traps) which left me with about a 4 club difference between the shots. Ended up bogey/par for that hole. #2 was better and I was greenside from the blues which set up a birdie for that hole vs par from the tips. Yeah, both par 5s on the front were similar from either tee. I was green-side in 2 for both (trap on #4). Numbers 6 & 7 hurt me from the front tees because my driver put me in more peril than from the back. #6 was reachable from the blues, but I pulled the tee shot left and it rolled into the trees leaving an awkward chip to just get near the green in two. Tips tee shot was dead center 70 yds out and I put it within 3 ft for a birdies there. #12 is the long par 4 with the creek angling in front of the green. Tee shot isn't bad, but if you happen to pull the approach a bit, you WILL end up with a tough recovery shot. #13 is the long par 5 on the back with an 80 yd differential. I was on in 2 from the blue tees and made an easy birdie. The two doubles I had weren't due to the holes being longer. One was on #9 where I miscalculated and put the approach on the false front and with the spin, it came some 40 yds back down the hill. I then pitched it on the flat area, but apparently still had too much spin and here it came again! The other was on #17. I put my tips tee shot in the left trap and the sand had washed out a bit and the fiber cloth they have underneath was exposed a foot or so in front of the ball. I caught my 5i thin and it embedded in it causing some difficulty as well as a bit of profanity. The Frog is my go-to course when I'm in Atlanta because it's far enough out of the city that you rarely run into a crowd and last minute tee times are not usually a problem. BT
  18. I was in Atlanta and had a free afternoon last week. I decided to try something as an experiment. I selected a tee time at The Frog that put me behind two foursomes. Playing by myself allowed me the freedom and time to play two balls, one each from the tips (7018, 73.5, 138) and the Blue tees (6239, 69.3, 127). The temp was around 65 and I had a slight breeze (<10mph). I selected a white Vice Pro for the tips and a red Vice pro for the Blues so there would be no mixing up of balls. Scored 41 with both balls on the front and 41 & 37 on the back giving me an 82 from the tips and a 78 from the blues. I found it comical that my scores had the same 4 stroke differential as the ratings, but I guess that's the way it's supposed to be. It definitely made a difference on some holes where there was 50-70 yards difference. I had birdies with both balls and a double with each also, so I feel it was a pretty good comparison. My typical drive carries around 250 at sea level. For reference, I had a good drive from the blues on #2 and was 30 yds from the center of the green. Anecdotal I know, but thought I'd share anyway. BT
  19. Yeah, with the adjustable hosels, you can change shafts easily. I've been doing just this for years now. BT
  20. I've been using the FJ Wintersoft for years. I get a pair around the first of October and wear them for driving too. It helps me get used to having them on and playing is a lot easier then. I go through one pair each year. BT
  21. Can't find any issues with TM equipment. I have used it several times as rental sets and they perform fine. The only golfers I see with equipment breaking seem to be high swingspeed players (115+ mph). BT
  22. Well put. I detest the comment "Feel isn't Real"because I have spent a HUGE amount of time educating my Feel so that it is quite close to Real. When you get right down to it, Feel is really all we have when playing. This actually leads right into my "key"..... If it feels right, the swing is okay. If the ball isn't going where it should, it's an adjustment issue. Pay attention to the details. BT
  23. I've been playing the Vice Pro for about three years. I like the free personalizing and they perform as good as anything I've played. BT
  24. I have issues with lasers because my hands shake. I use a Garmin Approach S60 watch instead. It lists FMB, but also hole view, distance to hazards, Distance to layup, Green view, movable pin position, etc. I check hazards from the tee as soon as I get there, and am usually ready to go in just a few seconds. On the way to my tee shot, I switch to close up hole view on par 5s so I can assess whether I want to go for it or layup and what the best layup distance is. I switch straight to Green view on par 4s and set the pin to my best estimation of the actual position and plan the best area of the green to aim at. For partial shots, I use it all the way down to 20 yds, especially on elevated greens where you can't see the green surface. Green view is also great to see the shape of the green when it's obscured by mounds and traps and also just how close those traps are to the edge of the green. It has tons of other stuff it can do that I never mess with, but I find it great for golf. BT
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