Jump to content

Considering swapping my shafts on my irons...

Recommended Posts

I currently have A flex shafts on my irons. I'm considering switching them to regular, as I seem to be consistently hitting left with them when I do a full power swing, which from what I've read is the expected direction for shaft flex problems. They're pretty old irons in general, but I can't really afford a new set at the moment, nor do I think it would be really worthwhile (40ish HDCP). I would have to buy a heat gun and the epoxy. How difficult is it for a beginner to line it up and do it? I've looked at some videos and it doesn't look like the hardest thing ever, but it definitely has more steps than replacing grips, which I did for the first time a few weeks ago (rip the grips I just put on them). I'd probably swap some shafts from some older clubs I have and just switch them out. Thoughts?

WalkrOfSky - 44HDC Scrub


Link to comment
Share on other sites

It’s more than just a flex thing you need to consider.  There is no standard in the industry for flex. Ones brand stiff could be another brands x stiff or regular. Also within the same brand different shaft lines can have different flex.

Shaft weight, weight of the and swingweight for some are more important.

Im not a club builder nor do I care to be, but as for the work you will need, a shaft puller to get the shafts out. Something to hold everything in place while you install the new ones.

Then there’s the cost. You probably could find a good used set for around the same price you will pay for the shafts, maybe a little more.

Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also not a professional club builder but agree with what Ricky Bobby said with the exception that if they are steel shafts you can pull them without a shaft puller.  You also don't need a heat gun, a propane or butane torch will work for removing iron shafts since you heat the hosel of the iron, not the shaft itself.  Torch might actually be easier as well.

That said, you would probably be much better off just finding a new set of irons unless you are playing something that is particularly expensive.  By the time you find a set of shafts you're probably going to be looking at over $100 for used shafts (person to person sale) if you can find what you need + new grips + tip weights (you'll need these to bring the clubs back to the correct swing weight).  Add onto that the heat gun / torch and epoxy and you're going to be well over $200, possibly over $300 if you have to buy used shafts at retail.  

Now that I'm typing this you'll probably also need access to a swing weight scale or you'll have to buy that too.  It will be much easier/faster/cheaper to go on 2ndswing.com and pick up a used set of irons.  The added bonus there is they have a 30 day return policy where you could test out the new clubs and see if the shaft really is the problem. 

I have a strong feeling that your cause of going left is probably an outside in ("over the top") swing and a closed face and likely has very little to do with the flex of the shaft.  I would try to find a local pro and take a lesson before making any decision as they can probably get you straightened out.


Edit:  If you do decide to go the new club route you should also post a wanted to buy ad here asking for some Game Improvement irons with regular flex shafts and then list your price cap.  Chances are someone around here has exactly what you're looking for collecting dust in their garage....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As 40 hc'r Id recommend a lesson, Not as a slight but as a dual purpose action. You can get some tips on the swing and let the pro tell if he thinks its a shaft issue or a lie angle issue, or a shaft issue, or a grip to small issue etc.  There is a plethora of other specification's that can cause the same thing where the fix is much less expensive than a shaft change.  

  • Like 5
  • Love 1

Driver - 44.5" 5.0 flex 10.5 deg Graphite Design XC 6S GP MCC4+ 1 deg closed

Irons - 5-pw, GW stnd length 5.0 flex same grip 1 deg flat. Type low medium offset cavity back, no diggers

Wedges - 56 and 60 tour grind wedge spinner and mcc4+ grip 2 flat 10 and 8 in bounce

Putter - Makefield VS LH

Ball - truvis

Carried in a Sun Mountain C-130 USA bag - BE PROUD.

HC - LH but 85 is a good number, playing in Ohio.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I agree with MCGOLF, get a lesson or two from a local PGA Pro. I would also get your current irons spec checked from a local repair shop to check length, loft, lie, swingweight and so on for a starting point. 

“I should of yelled Two!”


Driver: PXG 0811x Gen 4 / Tour AD TP6s

3W: PXG 0341x Gen 1 / Tour AD TP6s

3HY: :taylormade-small: GAPR / KBS Stiff

4-PW: :taylormade-small: P770 / Nippon Pro Modus 3 120 Stiff + 1/2”

Wedges: :taylormade-small: MG3 / Nippon Pro Modus 3 120 Stiff + 1/2” 50-09, 54-11, 60-10

Putter: :cobra-small: Grandsport 35

Ball: Pro V1

Bag: Sun Mountain C-130

Cart: Clicgear 4.0

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Create New...