McGolf

Ill be taking a trip to Kentucky where I will be bottling my own bourbon or Rye. I get to name the bottle as part of the experience. I have a name for the rye -dogleg RYET. I need a good one for the Bourbon. Right now ( and its weak) I have Mcburbn , an old handle I used. anything else,,,,,,

a 44" putter sounds interesting. However you will be limited to a lie angle of 80 degrees. I think it can be done and I would suggest a putting style of side saddle.

I'm a squairz fan, they have a few models, light, water resistance etc,

Axioms are a unique shaft to sure, they are also VERY stable. Going to 125X would mostly be too much. If you are hitting the shot as needed and getting good ball speed then there isn't really a need to go much further unless out of curiosity.

Not all OEMs place the CG in the middle planning on the golfer to hit some side shots. IE placing some weight in the design toward the toe to push the CG that direction. If you take a look at the irons from the 60s and before that have MASSIVE hosels, you are correct the CG is very heel side. This is found by visiting the golf hall fame and looking at the irons they used in the day. Wear marks are heel side because that was the best. Maltby being a big proponent of CG location, I would find it odd that Pete would allow that. but its not unheard of. Good catch

Im not sure of the specific mass of copper as compared to chrome but,,, you may want to ask them if the head weights will be near the same as they are currently, If the company removed dings , dents etc there is certainly going to be a change in weight. Then applying only copper to the exterior may be tricky. Copper is soft, you also may find that the appearance will look worse that it does currently.

The issue is with the age of a the clubs. Im going out on a limb and thinking they are taper tip shafts and they were jammed into the head making something akin to a press kit. The rings around the top are as posted already , just extra surface area for epoxy to grab. Unfortunately, you will need to apply heat several times say about 10 -15 min apart to make it work. and as previously suggested, a shaft puller is a wonder thing with this type of a repair.

If you are counter balancing just for the sake of obtaining a particular swing weight, I would not recommend. However, if the idea of the weight is put a little more weight in the hands for tracking the club during the swing then I would consider it. If you really want to back weight the are two options. 1) there is a plastic insert that will receive weights or an epoxy slurry with tungsten in it. 2) tour lock or balance certified weight to insert in the butt of the shaft. both options can be found at golf works. back to the tape. Id would recommend running it the length of the grip under the fingers. Two strips max to prevent making to much of an oval. It could be a good thing.

for a more permanent paint I would recommend pin striping paint for cars. I believe its called first stop?

shaft pullers cover a wide range of cost and applications. Such as high volume to "my one set" and all relate to the time you have to devote to the task. For getting started there is a hydraulic. bench mount model for about $150 on ebay and it would do the job well. Bang for the buck this is the one to get for just about anyone. In whatever you choose the clamp is as important as the method used to pull the head or shaft off the club. My favorite places to check out would be Golf works Golf Mechanix Mitchell for pulling shafts I have a few videos pull a shaft this is the latest one using mine which is not made anyone and 20 yrs ago went for over $800

I moved from the Triad to the staff ball. Wilson made a massive upgrade there IMO. It is a top notch performer.

The takomos are super good looking. The 70s run in the low R flex. They bend easily.

Redid a a set of takomo's using KBS and Lamkin

The short answer is yes, it can make a difference. However, dont get wrapped around the axel. An indoor fitting can just has good and if not better than outside. For instance if you go to the range with your perfect golf balls and whatever launch monitor and you hit into a 10 mph head win you wont see the typical 275 yd shot off the tee nor proper flight. This is the same argument as hitting off a mat. they (fitting areas) all have pros and cons, It comes down to the person operating the gear and integrating the data into the fitting. As Per Ricky above Back to the ball, range balls are hard, greasy, and very durable. That's why they are range balls. In lower irons say from 7 or 8 iron down you probably wont see a bunch of performance difference except spin however not by a lot. When you go up in club selection the range ball will under perform about one club length due to the lack of rebound and added spin. I would suggest warming up with the range ball and if finding parameters such a length then its apples to apples. However when doing performance testing use a real golf ball from the same category you like, meaning if you are used to hitting a prov, don't test with a Callaway super soft. Too muddy the water even more, If you concentrate on the ball and find the one you have been using a poor selection be open to change. :)

As I am sure you figured out the paint fill of the cavity has a texture and appears to be decently thick. If you can recreate the look then I d say repaint it. to me it almost looks power coated. If regular paint is available as it is to us regular folk. I would consider sand blasting the cavity to give it the rough surface then paint it to match the set. As far as paint fill goes a little dab will do ya. some amount of acetone or nail remover can do the trick with a dental tool (harbor freight) to remove paint. to put it back in this case Id consider a the paint bottle with the needle to minimize the spread. and wipe directly.