JDHolmes
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Posts posted by JDHolmes
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Ping G430. Because they fit and noone really wants to order me 4upright, +1". Always an excuse why it cant happen.
Been using Pings since 1977 and I expect I will til I quit. I've used others and had them bent (Titleist) but getting shafts correct and lie correct is always a challenge.
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The sciece says 1% per mile per hour with a face wind, .5% per mile per hour tail wind. I change balls based on wind. Pro V1's perform well in the Wind as do Srixon X. Maxfli Tour in middle winds, Tour S in strong winds.
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Lie angle for the 6 and 7 are different and a cut down 6 iron that is the same length as a regular 7 iron would have a different lie angle. To get the appropriate lie angle on that full length 7, you would need to choke down 1/2 inch.If it’s possible to hit a 7 iron good cut down, but not as good not cut down, then what about the 6? A cut down 6 is the same length as a normal 7. So if I cut down the 6 to hit it consistently, then why even cut them down at all?
in essence, with a half short, aren’t we just delofting the club 4 degrees (or whatever the loft difference is)??
A 1/2 short 6, being same length as std 7, the only real difference is loft.
I feel like there is a lot of placebo effect here with club lengths.
this is more of a philosophical question.
My brain hurts.
Does the 1/2 degree make a difference? It does for me. But my clubs are 3/4" longer, not shorter with appropriate lie angles for me. I can hit regular lie and length clubs, just not well and will dig the toe much deeper than hosel end due to flat lie of standard clubs.
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- Shapotomous and Christof
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They are a bit stiff to flex, good for me as I use them and Proj X LZ in regular though I'm a stiff shaft normally. They hold up well to strong swingers
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Our range charges $9.25 for a large which is 70 balls. $5.50 for small, 35 balls. Member have nearly unlimited balls (6 large per day) as part of membership.
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I joined because it's a major factor for why we moved here. Two private, one semi private course. Golf rounds average $20 a round based upon 4 rounds per week. Free range balls. 8 day advance tee time booking. No trail fees. My own cart. Can walk if desired (long haul from house to proshop re: a mile or so)
I can go and play off site if I choose also, but why? Our courses are well maintained, difficult quality greens, play well-score well.
Monday and friday 9:00 shotgun start with our groups. Organized individual and group events.
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Interesting. Some perspective. Driver head weights are +/- 200 g.
I put a 5 wood head on a driver shaft, 250ish grams, and the shaft was too whippy to hit effectively.
Wedges run around 260-275ish grams. Others less but I don't believe any head gets to the lightness of the driver head.
Good luck with the effort
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Unforunately, I have read the thread. That aside, my post had nothing to do with a single round. Moving back always increases strokes. Even if one plays a "bit" better back, it will all equal out. The only way to change that is to sandbag and your handicap committee should resolve that.Please read the rest of the posts. This is not about a single round but consistently playing from forward tees as a means of inflating ones handicap so that when play events from "regular" tees, more strokes are received.
Or move back and compete with them with more strokes.
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You really cant get more strokes playing forward. You get less because of tee handicsp and lesser slope. Course A for MGA I get 5 strokes from white. From yellow (senior tees....which I am) I get 1. I play yellow twice a week in my Monday/Friday group.
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The 3 courses I play weekly are part of our community. When I played in tournament league prior to this, i did the same.
I arrive at range 1.5 hours before tee time. I warm up, hit balls, large bucket, 70-80 balls. This usually takes 30-40 minutes. 1/2 the shots are 40, 50, 60, 75 yd sand wedge shots, gap wedge, 45 wedge, and pitching wedge shots. I hit 3-5 ea. 9, 8, 7 irons. I hit 4 irons, 4 hybrid shots, then finish on my drivers. I have two, 9 degree and 15.5 degree (yes that's right, a 13.5 degree driver with +2 on shaft).
When finished, i go to practice green for 10 minutes of putting and 10 minutes of chipping practice. I go to meet the group at 8:30, we pull teams and go to holes (shotgun start 4 days a week) and tee off at 9.
Without the last 30 minutes, I've followed the same routine for the last 5 years.
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Try the Swing U app. With premium, you can track club distances, has club recommendations based upon your tracked shots. You can use Versus which resilts in SG numbers and app recommendations for improvement. There are also training videos included.
If I remember correctly, it's $72 a year. I've been using it for several years and have over 300 rounds stored.
Added) I've used Aarcos, shotscope v3, grint, most apps available and this is what remains.
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I don't doubt that you could achieve with older clubs as could many better golfers (you and others under 15). But there's a reason we're low handicap vs those who are high handicap and the help given by newer gi and sgi irons (and associated) are better for them than older clubs. I've helped several get out of 30 year old pings and into Sim max and stealth sets which have had huge impact on their games, like 10-12 strokes a round.Interesting perspective that the direction and score are tied to the age of the clubs. I used to play Cleveland TA7 Tour irons which are now about 20 years old and still have a 6 iron. I hit it at the range a few weeks ago and it performed well and I believe that if I had a full set of them I could still play to the same level I do today. Found a set for $150 with graphite shafts on 2nd Swing. I have a Tour Edge XCG7 fairway wood that I hit as well as my current 3 wood and they are $50. 30 year old drivers would definitely have distance challenges but probably wouldn't significantly impact score.
If the player has challenges hitting the ball off the ground then maybe more current clubs would help but that doesn't guarantee scores or ball flight. Players with brand new clubs still hit them nowhere, can't hit them straight and constantly shoot 90 or more. The OP lists himself as an 8 handicap so he probably has some ability to hit the ball effectively even with older clubs.
I will also add that putting them in appropriate shafts instead of stiffs had impact on scores and swing results also.
I also think that most high handicap golfers (except those frequenting this site) have no clue about fittings, shafts, flex, or anything. I actually witness a guy at Dick's yesterday letting his wife order him a new set of Ping G430's. No discussion about fitting, flex, length, dot color, etc. $1600 down the toilet.
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Sorry, none with the parameters set. All will be older technology and while they will "work" they are poor choices in todays market with the quality of todays products.
I play with guys daily that use 30 year old clubs and wonder why they go nowhere, why they cant hit them straight, and why the constantly shoot 90 or above.
If you're ok with the above, buy anything in your price range. If not, buy quality tools at a slower rate. An $80 quality used hybrid will replace several $40 hybrids or fw woods.
I carry only a 4 hybrid, 200 yard club.
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I've used ebay for 15 years and thousands of transactions. I've used (tried to use) this site, marketplace,callaway pre-owned, GG, other retailers. All pay less than ebay even with sales fees and charge more for equal product. Regardless of which you use, you must be realistic about the value of what you're selling. Most people aren't and expect near retail for used products.
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For a high handicap player, I would recommend nothing beyond a gap wedge UNTIL you can hit and control the gap with no more than one error shot per round.
Then, add the 54 or 56 sand wedge and learn to control that.
I'm low single digit at most courses now and only carry the 56 and only use it from sand trap and fairway and special need shots (over traps or short sided chips).
Most average and high handicap golfers would benefit from using one wedge (P or G) for most chipping and pitching required shots. Unfortunately, most try and use an infrequently used SW or LW, AND UNMASTERED, hitting a poor shot most times elevating their score to double or beyond rather than use a more often used club, hitting a workable shot for bogey and saving many strokes a round. 15 cap and higher seldom, if ever, hit the great shot required when using a SW or LW...though they will always talk about, remember, and rationalize their use because they hit that shot once...upon a time.
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The deal with Memorial is that you can pay $15 extra to secure the tee time you want 2 weeks in advance then when normal Joe's try and book on the clock, those special times are not in the system. If alone. Best is walk up at 45 mins before opening. They keep a starter time open for 7:30 but ifyou're later, no bueno.
I waited 2.5 hours walkup before and was 7 on the list.
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The 3 should be able to carry the team, minimally to be on in regulation.
The strategy I play as A player and captain is to hit last. If B, C, or D has playable, reasonable approach, I bomb it. Best player should hit last on approach also. If other have usable on green, then that player tries to get as close as possible, if no other good shots on green, A hits onto green safely.
Putting is as others have stated. A good putter who can putt to the designsted spot goes first to show the line. Best putter last.
7 under not that difficult. We've won at 21 and usually finish at 18 or 19 under. This with A,B,C, D players and 3 drives per player required. It is challenging with 20-30 cap D players but is done each time. We do it minimally once a month.
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For me, Pro V1 and Maxfli Tour X for either of your categories.
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One hour pre-round, 30-40 minutes at range, mostly short game half shots, several sand shots, 3-10 drivers, long irons.
20-30 minutes at putting green, most putting but usually a dozen or so chip and run shots.
Evenings, I'll go on the course and actually practice pitch/chip and run on several greens.
The above is minimally 4 days per week, more if playing additional days.
Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk- Christof and sirchunksalot
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GP Tour wrap 2. Soft, sticky, no glove necessary. Been my go to grip for several years now. I find mcc's and the like too hard
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I've done with a 5 wood. It was a bit "whippier" due to extra tip length. If I got on it, it was a big hook. If I swung smoothly, it was great, straight and long...longer than typical 5 wood which is about 210 for me. I was getting 225-230 with it.
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What is the hardest shot in golf?
in General Q&A
Posted
65 yard sand wedge into a back pin on an elevated green
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