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Everything posted by Perrymr

  1. I like the KISS method. Find the shot that gives me the best shot at solid contact, and an expected result. the Less manipulation and precision needed, the better. I'd rather have to worry about reading a green with a bump and run than skulling it into the rough.
  2. All but the " E" marker have made an appearance for me.
  3. I'll parrot a lot of things that have already been said, but I think they are worth saying again. What are your goals in golf? Are you happy with your scores hitting 3wood off the tee, and just want to have fun? Then ditch driver. If your goal is to shoot the lowest score you possibly can, The driver will be helpful. I know it's easier said than done given your space limitations, but if you could find a way to hit a bunch of drives I think it would be a huge help. Even if its just whacking birdie balls. I know you mentioned moving the net outside. Its also possible to kinda straddle here, hit 3wood off the tee for now, but don't quit on the driver. Eventually you'll have to take that range swing to the course, but there is no rule that says you can't hit 3w and still practice driver. It may help to decide before a round what your goals are as well. Are we trying to shoot a personal best today? Or do we want to work on taking our range work to the course? I don't know about you, but it took a couple months for the results I saw on the range to bleed to the course. Keep your spirits up, I feel for ya, and I'll leave you with the advice some one gave me with the driver. "Your so bad with the driver, when you practice only hit driver. Don't work on anything else but that."
  4. This right here. @cnosil nails it.. It's kinda tough to figure out which (non-set) club will fill a gap. Shaft length and face material will come into play. Also, what is the gap between the 5w and 5i currently? A 7 woodz 4 hybrid, or maybe even 5 hybrid, could be the answer. Obviously I good default answer is talk to your courses pro, but if you can't do you have fairly accurate numbers for your 5i 5w?
  5. I've got the same 6-7 gap. Its a little bigger than ideal, but choking down on the 6, or deporting the 7 usually does well enough for someone and imprecise as me.
  6. I've regripped a fair share of putters for players ranging in skill from Elite (D1, mini tours, Canadian and Latin American tour) to brand new golfers who bring me dry rotted messes from their parents garage. Here's what I've found to work, take it for whatever its worth. -. Having a vice is super helpful, and make sure its mounted to a sturdy table. - I've used levels before, but usually only when a putter is giving me trouble and just not looking right. Usually just to get the face perfectly vertical. - Really thick grips get lots of solvent. (Super strokes) -unless you need to grip to dry faster, I dont mind a healthy amount of solvent. It allows for adjustments to be made and fine tuned. -the tape should not be sliding down. Is it possible thats just residue from the tape that the solvent has disolved? - while I agree in theory that a grip being a couple degrees off could result in missed putts, we also need to take into account that most golfers do not deliver the putter the same way everytime. more or less forward press or slightly different alignment or inconsistent delivery will change the face more than the grip. -with better players i like to let them look at the alignment before the grip dries. They will be able to set up and see how it fits their eye. It doesn't matter how square I think it is, or what a level says. If it looks off to the golfer, its no good. My advice for doing your own grip, get it as you can, but whats more important is that you feel comfortable with how it sets up at address.
  7. I had a conversation about this today, and I will paraphrase the best I can. For those with the skill and time to hone it, using 1 wedge for the majority of chipping and pitching allows you to eliminate the Variability of shaft length, loft, face material (vokey vs a hot face iron) so you learn to manipulate the face and ball position with 1 wedge and you take lots of variables out. But for those who may not have the skill or time to work on it, using a lower lofted Iron can be bennificial, as it does get the ball rolling and reduces chances of blades and chunks.
  8. As some one who plays with golfers much better than myself, and players much less knowledgeable than I, here's what I notice. The number one thing I take away from playing with the scratch and plus handicap players is " even if you think you are planning shots and managing the course, chances are, you still aren't doing it right." And the most frustrating thing I see with friends who are mid level golfers is, they are incredibly bogged down with weird swing thoughts they picked up from YouTube or another buddy. They tend to overcomplicate the swing.
  9. Matt /Raleigh NC Hdcp 11 SM8 tour stock finish and mizuno MPT I dont know if Raw does appeal to me, numbers so its not better for spin, but im curious if the feel difference is really worth it
  10. I dont know if my categorization of what a "players distance iron" is matches everyone else's, but here are 3 irons I think are a good combination of distance and forgiveness, while still having some "players" features. 1. Titleist T100s- probably a bit biased here, as this is what I play, but I play them because I think they are a great mix of workability/forgiveness/distance. I dont consider myself a great ball striker, but I still enjoy these irons, they do a great job with distance control and consistency, while still being workable and very appealing to the eye. 2. Mavrik Pros- a bit of a thicker top line, but I enjoyed testing these irons. The head is compact enough that better players shouldn't be too turned off by it. Lots of distance and tech built in. Feel good for cast. 3. P770S- As much as I hated the P790s, I really dig the p770s, looks like a blade (obviously a bit thick in spots) but has lots of pop, and feels 100x better than the p790. I know you asked "how are they forgiving " and I dont have specifics per se, the only way I can describe the forgiveness for all of these is this, I never felt unfairly punished for a less than stellar swing, and never felt these irons were "too good" for me. Yes, miss hits didn't fly as far, and toe strikes drew more, but i never felt like I bit off more club than I could handle.
  11. Matt Raleigh NC Scotty futura 6m ANSER 2, its a classic
  12. Had a chance to hit a few with the BBB21 stock shaft the other day. Shots do definitely wanted to draw/hook but I fight a hook anyway, and was actually surprised that I didn't snap hook more of them. Sound was very different than the flash and the mavrik, much more metallic and sharp sounding. Didnt love the sound. I didn't love the shaft, stated flex was stiff but felt a lot softer. Probably not the club for me, but I'm sure it will work for some.
  13. Hybrids tend to launch the ball higher and in general, further. They tend to be easier to hit, less club head speed needed to get the ball in the air. Utility irons can offer more shot shaping ability, and some players just like the look of an iron at address. If i HAD to make a generalization, lower, and even moderate swing speed players should give hybrids a serious look.
  14. @PingMD702 I dont know much about the CBs ( as a lefty my access to clubs is very hit and miss) but if you like the feel of the t100 and you find they fit your game better i would definitely endorse using them, i love mine. I dont know how I feel about bending your CBs to match the t100 though. If i did any bending at all it would be to make the long irons fit my scoring clubs, not the other way around. I also have a steeper swing, so the thought of taking bounce away from shorter irons doesn't give me warm fuzzy's. Let me know what you end up doing
  15. I had a chance to hit the 770 7-iron today and was pleasantly surprised with how it felt. I did not care for the feel of the 790s and the 770s definitely fixed that problem. My only complaint would be even with a 130g shaft, the head still felt kinda heavy. If i didn't just buy T100s/T200s I would have considered the 770s
  16. I agree with @cnosil, numbers are better in context. Also, It might also be useful to look at your descent angle. And for the sake of beating a dead horse, maybe a lower spin rate does end up decreasing stopping power, but, what if it helps straighten out a hook or slice? Maybe the reduced spin helps keep a shorter iron in your hand on longer courses. Play some rounds, and if you find you arnt holding any greens and it's detrimental to your scoring and enjoyment, then it might be time to question your fitter. But I'd be hesitant to chase trackman numbers based on what is optimal for pros or high level golfers.
  17. Obviously players should not damage the course, not only does it look bad but could be unfair for anyone following them. That being said I don't think that is limited to just professional players I've seen many an amateur do it as well. But I do think it is a little bit silly to expect these players to not show emotion, they are playing for their livelihoods. Again I've seen people freak out over a golf shots that are worth $0. can you imagine what it would feel like to shank a $100,000 shot? I would also contend that , although we may condemn it publicly, we love to see these emotional outbursts. People love drama look no further than soap operas and reality TV. Look at the push to mic up more players, we want more personality and more individualism from these players. We certainly wouldn't want every player to have an emotional outburst all the time,, but the fact that a couple of them do adds to the entertainment, it gives us something to talk about, and it gives us someone to root for or against. I realize that I'm rambling, but I guess my point is whether or not you think a player is right or wrong in having the outburst, them having it increases your participation, investment, and potential enjoyment of watching the game.
  18. Like @Hadi05 said, are you trying to save a few bucks by getting the flash over the Mavrik? I would be very hesitant to buy the epic based on your Mavrik fitting. Not to say the flash isn't a good club, but the MavMax is a draw biased club with a good amount of tech and weight being used to help keep the club face square/closed. I'm not saying you wouldn't like the flash, but definitely hit it before buying it if you can.
  19. I had my first fitting my final semester of college in 2013, So a slightly similar situation. Even though in hindsight I think the fitter dropped the ball with my driver and 3 wood fitting, he nailed the irons. my enjoyment of the game grew when I was playing clubs that helped me play better. I know cost is a concern, but for me it was worth it. You may also want to bite the bullet and pay for a fitting and then shop used. My second "fitting" was this summer, but it was less a fitting and more trying different head and shaft combos over a few weeks until I found something that looked and felt good, and then getting on a launch monitor to make sure nothing was too wonky.
  20. Agreed, buy it yourself and instead of tangible gifts for bdays go out to a restaurant you normally wouldn't splurge on, or something like that.
  21. Ping makes very forgiving drivers, maybe give the the G410 a try. And if spin is an issue the Ping G410 LST. If you really like your M3 you could also try a different shaft/adjustable weight combo to dial in the forgiveness and spin combo.
  22. The set up T100s: 7-48* T200: 4,5,6 Project X LZ 6.5 (x-flex) 125g 2* upright Tour velvet. T100s (7,8,9,P,G) I was first drawn to the T100s because these irons look so freaking clean. I had no intention of buying a set, I just wanted to try and hit a club that I thought was out of my league. What I found however, was a relatively forgiving and extremely fun to hit set. To clarify, when I say forgiving, I don't mean your miss hits will be knocking down flags, and I don't mean your chunked shots will still be pin high. What I DO mean, is that if you catch it a little thin, or a bit on the toe, you're still gonna be in the hole. You may have to make a long putt or get up and down to save par, but you'll still be in play. its forgiving for the type of iron that it is. what I like most about these irons is the distance control. The speed feels consistent across the face (gross miss hits not included) and i have yet to have a ball rocket over the green because a particularly "hot" part of the club face. I was also impressed with how well the club moved through the turf, especially coming from a much wider soled set (jpx 825) If i had to nitpick the only compliant I have is that the pw and gw are 44 and 48, respecticly. I would have preferred 45 and 50. And i know the t100 is close to that, and I know I can bend them, but then we are messing the bounce, yadda yadda yadda. Final though on the T100s, they feel and look great, and if you are stuck between GI and players iron, I would suggest at the very least giving the T100s a few swings. T200 (4,5,6) The decision to use the T200 for the longer irons was a result of having a frank discussion with myself about my own skill level. The heads are a little bigger, soles wider, and they resist face manipulation a bit more. Couple that with stronger lofts and a hotter face and they fit the bill for what i need in my longer irons. Having never gamed the t200 short irons I can only speculate, but I don't know if I'd like the hotter face in my short irons. I did try the t200 and t100 7 irons back to back, and the extra pop from the T200 is very noticeable. The T200 also made painful noise on miss-hits, but its a small price to pay for keeping it in play. The Combo Set I am a huge fan of the split set, and am glad I went this route. There is no reason to have irons in your bag that you don't feel confident with. For me this meant using longer irons I know will launch high enough and straight enough, and shorter irons that are consistent and predictable. closing I think the T100s and the T200 are solid clubs, and i would recommend trying them if you are in the market for new irons.
  23. Matt...Raleigh NC 10 hdc Current: t100s/200 combo set with project x lz 6.5
  24. I have the lz 6.5 in my t100s/t200 combo set and I'm a big fan. Tried the AMT white, x100s and kbs as well, but the LZ felt the best
  25. Just did this for a member last week. The biggest issue when converting a belly putter to an arm lock is going to be the loft of the putter. Arm lock putters can have a ball park loft of 6 degrees, give or take. A belly putter most likely will have less. @Nic mentioned the armlock grip which does add loft, but as @03trdblackmentioned, adds a lot of weight. Chances are if you use the armlock specific grip you'll want to add lead tape to the head. If you have access to a mitchell machine adding loft shouldnt be a problem and converting a belly putter to an armlock isn't outrageous at all, just be prepared to make tweaks to weight and loft, and be patient.
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