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jtgavigan

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Everything posted by jtgavigan

  1. This is what got me down those last few strokes (2-5 a round it feels like). Making 6 to 10 foot par putts can be round savers. I would add work a lot on start line. I use a gate drill with a few tees a little more than a ball width apart and a foot in front of the ball and putt through them to a tee about a foot beyond that. I try to hit the target tee while missing the gate tees 10 times in a row before I start putting. Then, I know my start line is good. In putting, if my start line is always good, and my speed control is good, it just comes down to read. I have eliminated 2 of 3 variables. Avoiding big numbers is huge. I am still struggling with that. If you look at my handicap card, I am shooting between 73 and 81 for my last 20 scores. When I shoot 78 to 81, always penalty strokes and doubles in there. Usually, it is a tee shot or two that is poorly planned or executed.
  2. Awesome job! I have been following Jeff from Athlean-X. I bought one of his programs, mostly for other exercises. His ab app is great. 5 to 8 minutes and you are done. I do that several times a week, along with pilates. I do strength training 3 to 4 times a week at home. Keep it up!
  3. Not trying to be a smart alec here, but have you looked at mechanics? That should also be in play. The reason I ask is that I was really struggling like this off the tee last year, regardless of club. I also had some poor equipment fits as well that contributed. However, a perfect club cannot overcome a really bad swing or even just a bad setup. My biggest struggle is a stall of the hips and hands and arms try to square the club. It can lead to some really, really bad misses. It is not the club's fault. I also spend a ton of time on the range on an alignment stick so I know what good alignment looks like. The more offline I line up, the worsemy misses get. What is your swing speed with driver? Tempo? What flex shafts are you playing in your longer clubs? What is your handicap? Typical miss?
  4. Hey everyone, I have been meaning to do these reviews for a while and finally took the time to show them. I have been playing a number of Xcaliber shafts for at least a year and have been playing Robin's shafts for several years, even back to when he owned AXE. Here are my unfiltered thoughts on the Avalon 6, Avalon i9, and several of the Pro series shafts. As an update, I did put Modus 120's in my 4 iron and 2 iron to replace the i9 shafts, because I felt that they were too light and I think I am right based on the first range session with each. In summary, these are great shafts and certainly worth a try!
  5. The biggest issue with the DBM finish in that in makes the club almost impossible to adjust without breaking it. I play my irons and wedges 2° to 3° flat and almost none of them should be bent that much. You might be able to get away with it, but likely not. I love the finish, but they are just a hard no for me.
  6. I signed up. Been playing component stuff for years and have gone OEM in the woods lately. Would like to play something most people underrate and dont play.
  7. I have been building clubs for almost 19 years. Golfsmith and Golfworks were the companies I always trusted. I was a huge snake eyes fan and miss their stuff. Wishon and KZG were always brands I liked that sold to their club makers. I would never consider anything Hireko makes "high quality." I am sure they make decent stuff for most people, but I wouldn't build with anything they make. They were always the bargain/copycat component seller out there to me. Just my opinion....
  8. My pro just got the Apex Pro irons and he noted how much they looked like the TS1's.
  9. That is quite interesting! Most of what I hot has been fine. Then again, I play mostly component stuff and build my own stuff. I do hit some factory clubs from time to time and they have been fine. Just bought a PING G425lst 3 wood and the PING tour 65 shafts was just fine even though it was a flex too soft. I definitely preferred my Xcaliber Avalon 6S in it, but could have gamed the stock shaft. Thanks for sharing that. Very interesting story.
  10. I use the eyeline putting mirror as it has a gate drill on it. Before I got the mirrors, I used 4 tees. I would get an alignment stick out and lay it on a flat part of the green. I would push a tee all the way in the ground to mark where I would put the ball each time at one end of the stick. Then, place a tee half way into the ground as my target at the other end of the stick. Halfway down the stick I would then build a gate just over a ball width apart with the final 2 tees. Then, I would remove the stick and try to hit 10 consecutive through the gate and hit the target tee. The tee all the wat in the ground would mark a consistent ball placement. I hit the right tee most often. You can also add a putter blade gate to ensure you are hitting the sweet spot if you wish. Another drill is to get a chalk line device (any hardware store has them, used in flooring). You can then find a straight putt on the practice green and stretch the chalk string out along it. Thumb the string and it puts a chalk line on the green to putt by.
  11. No problem. The Maltby irons are quality. The woods, well, for me they don't work. I am a high spin player and none of them have worked well for me. I have been here a while, but mostly lurk. -Jim
  12. I have been playing TS1's for a year. As good as there is. Great feel, nice penetrating ball flight, plenty of spin, and very consistent. My judge of irons is how much can I be pin high? I am there a lot. Even though they are forgiving, they are plenty workable. I bent mine to where I have a 4° loft difference. I am playing 5-pw. I am playing arojnd with a 4i. Buy one iron and play with it. I was playing Snake Eyes 675B blades before that. I built the 5i and after 2 swings, I knew I would build the set.
  13. Here was the dispersion pattern....
  14. I concur. Bought a 425LST last week because the Maltby 3 wood I had just spun way too much. Attached is my fitting data. I was hitting several shafts at 1° flat. I ended up going 1° strong but not flat to move the dispersion slightly left.
  15. I have played for 39 years, all but maybe 3 months of it with a 10 finger grip. The pro I worked with when I was 11 and 12 taught it to me and we had every intention of changing later. I experimented with overlapping and interlocking grips (for 3 months) over the years. I have small hands and just didn't have a secure feeling with the others. I have been a low single digit guy most of those 39 years and it hasn't been ball striking that has held me back. So, use what works.
  16. Completely agree. For me, it is about spin control (high spin player) and dispersion. Feel is also important, but the first two are more important to me in long clubs.I have seen people who swing faster than me in softer flexes. I have long contemplated softer flexes in wedges, as most pros play softer flexes in them. I had reshafted some old snake eyes wedges with r flex score shafts and hit them recently. I loved them. I will experiment one day. I could probably play s flex in my irons with no real losses honestly. @release, I saw your points in another thread about flex and you need to rethink things. Times have changed. Many players (most pros) go softer in shorter clubs for more spin, softer feel, etc. Just go through some witb for players and you will see this. Everything is dependent on how you deliver the club. Guys like Koepka and DJ (from what I recall) play higher lofted drivers and shafts that are higher launch than me (softer mid/butt sections) and they swing way faster than me. I am sure their hands are more ahead and they deloft the club at impact. I am the opposite - my hands are typically behind the club a bit at impact. I hit the ball high and spin it a lot, especially in longer clubs. I play a lot more knockdown and controlled shots with short irons and wedges and can get my hands ahead. So, I can play softer flexes and different profiles. There is no real cut and dry rules anymore. Data, feel, and the eye test all should be used.
  17. I agree. Most of the made for shafts are pretty good. I used to test clubs for Wilson Sporting Goods back in the early 2000s when they had their testing facility in Humboldt, TN. Most of the made for shafts performed quite admirable against the best shafts they gave me. The only exception I remember was the Fujikura Speeder 757. That one outperformed everything. @IONEPUTT I respectfully disagree on your argument about shaft alignment. Thecounter argument is that many drivers, fairway woods and hybrids are adjustable and the shaft actually rotates, as the adapter doesn't have a sleeve to keep the shaft in the same orientation. So, install a pured, FLO'd, or spine aligned shaft and then decide you want to tweak the settings. Now, you are no longer aligned unless the adapter sleeve allows the shaft to stay in the same orientation. Both Taylormade and PING have sleeves that allow the shaft to rotate during adjustment. Xcaliber shafts have an alignment process before they put the finishes on their shafts. Last week, I installed one in my PING 3 wood and assumed I would be playing it in the -1°, flat setting (as I was fitted for). So, that is how I installed the shaft. After some more testing, I decided that I really didn't like so many misses right. I played with the -1.5° and -1.0° settings and decided I liked the -1.0 setting, which also is 2° more upright yet still 0.5° flatter than the other 3 woods I have gamed. Now, my shaft is no longer spine aligned. I highly doubt I will see a huge dispersion difference than if I reinstalled the shaft with the graphics aligned. I used to have every shaft pured and now no longer request it. I am not good enough to notice a difference and am pretty convinced that unless it is a complete garbage shaft, that there is little difference. I have seen studies that support puring and many that say it makes no difference. I would tend to agree that the results difference would be negligible. Just my opinion and experience over the last 19 years of being my own club builder. As soon as you put certain adjustment sleeves on a club and start tweaking, any supposed benefits of puring or any other alignment method would be gone.
  18. I have thought about this before and I agree with @cnosil, no one manufacturer is best. I could argue Taylormade, PING, Callaway, Titleist easily. Mizuno and Srixon deserve some consideration too. Given that, I have a Taylormade driver, PING 3 wood, Snake Eyes and Maltby hybrids, Maltby irons and wedges, and a PING putter. I could easily game another brand in any category.
  19. Thanks! Not old man golf yet. That is why I try to stay in shape.
  20. People have shaken their head at me for years. I am not big and my swing is fairly smooth. One guy keeps telling me I am the longest short guy he has ever seen and keeps telling me he just doesnt see where I generate that power from. Good mechanics, I am quick, and I hit it solid a lot. There is a young guy I play with who has dabbled on mini tours who knocks it 30 yards past me regularly. He is my size or slightly shorter. It is ridiculous.
  21. Here is my driver swing from a few months back. I was hitting a 44.5" driver and swinging it 107-109.
  22. No worries at all on the back 9. I have had several range sessions in the 1 1/2 to 2 hour range. (2 to 2 1/2 ish large buckets) No issues. I have played 27 this year a few times and only the heat and humidity kill me. I could easily hit a large bucket and then play 18. I am definitely not a digger, much more of a sweeper. I will say I built a 4 iron with a straight in X100 taper tip this week. It is stiffer and more harsh than my Sensicore x100 shafts. I need to soft step an X100 once or twice to get the feel I want. It performed fine, just felt bad. I am 5'8" and 165-170lbs, and I work out several days a week (weights and body weight stuff plus 2 pilates classes). I have always been strong and had good fast twitch muscles.
  23. Exactly 50 here. X flex pretty much everywhere. Numbers from my driver and a PING 3 wood with various X flex shafts last week.
  24. Wrong file uploaded. See below.
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