blackyatx Posted August 13, 2020 Share Posted August 13, 2020 I am trying to reshaft my flyz+ 3 iron from cobra that I noticed was an KBS S+ when I last regripped it (vs R+ in the rest of the set). The specs say a 0.355 shaft is used, so I bought one at golfworks and well when I pulled it, it seems to be a little loose. So I inserted a 0.370 graphite in which fit much better, or at least like all the other reshafts I have done. I checked the pulled shaft and it is a 0.355 and gives the same amount of play as well. I did not see any glass beads or shims upon removing so I assume the OEM did this on purpose or the hosel bore is out of spec. I reshafted the set GW, 3 years ago, but do not recall this issue. Has anyone else observed this behavior before? Since I live out in the middle of nowhere and mail takes a month or more to get things lately and no club builders within 2 hours, I am wondering if I could just use an epoxy with gap filling properties instead of a shim? I see people also have used meshed dry wall tape with success (can anyone provide a link?), which really just seems to be a way to keep things straight versus making a stronger bond (given what the OEM did). Glass beads and shims are out due to time it takes to get here. Sugar seems to be a bad idea, and I have seen sand which seems too messy to me. Note, I wanted to reshaft because I think the S+ is causing distances shorter than expected distances. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlow206 Posted August 13, 2020 Share Posted August 13, 2020 12 minutes ago, blackyatx said: I am trying to reshaft my flyz+ 3 iron from cobra that I noticed was an KBS S+ when I last regripped it (vs R+ in the rest of the set). The specs say a 0.355 shaft is used, so I bought one at golfworks and well when I pulled it, it seems to be a little loose. So I inserted a 0.370 graphite in which fit much better, or at least like all the other reshafts I have done. I checked the pulled shaft and it is a 0.355 and gives the same amount of play as well. I did not see any glass beads or shims upon removing so I assume the OEM did this on purpose or the hosel bore is out of spec. I reshafted the set GW, 3 years ago, but do not recall this issue. Has anyone else observed this behavior before? Since I live out in the middle of nowhere and mail takes a month or more to get things lately and no club builders within 2 hours, I am wondering if I could just use an epoxy with gap filling properties instead of a shim? I see people also have used meshed dry wall tape with success (can anyone provide a link?), which really just seems to be a way to keep things straight versus making a stronger bond (given what the OEM did). Glass beads and shims are out due to time it takes to get here. Sugar seems to be a bad idea, and I have seen sand which seems too messy to me. Note, I wanted to reshaft because I think the S+ is causing distances shorter than expected distances. Any thoughts? Like how loose is the 0.355? It's not supposed to be a super tight fit in the hosel, otherwise there would be no room for the epoxy between the shaft and the hosel. However, it should not be super loose either. Quote Follow my golf journey to break into the 80s Tester for the Titleist TSi Driver Spring 2020 MGS Tester for the Fujikura Motore X Shaft Updated 07/15/2022 Driver: Rogue St Max LS - Autoflex Fairway Woods: Rogue Max St 3HL and 7 Wood Irons: JPX 921 Hot Metal 5 to AW - Aerotech Steelfiber i95 Stiff parallel tip Wedges: Glide 4.0 54 and 58 Putter: PLD Custom Kushin 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackyatx Posted August 13, 2020 Author Share Posted August 13, 2020 I don't know how to answer "how loose" without some sort of measurement tool. The 0.370 graphite hybrid shaft fits like all my other reshafts meaning I can stick it in and rotate it easily and the shaft stays aligned with no/minor lateral play. There is more lateral play with the 0.355 and there is a lot with a 0.335. I have reshafted 6 others that did not appear to have any lateral play (shaft goes noticeably crooked in the hosel). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlow206 Posted August 13, 2020 Share Posted August 13, 2020 1 hour ago, blackyatx said: I don't know how to answer "how loose" without some sort of measurement tool. The 0.370 graphite hybrid shaft fits like all my other reshafts meaning I can stick it in and rotate it easily and the shaft stays aligned with no/minor lateral play. There is more lateral play with the 0.355 and there is a lot with a 0.335. I have reshafted 6 others that did not appear to have any lateral play (shaft goes noticeably crooked in the hosel). Would you be able to take a quick video with your phone of how loose it is. The part about it going in crooked doesn't sound good. Quote Follow my golf journey to break into the 80s Tester for the Titleist TSi Driver Spring 2020 MGS Tester for the Fujikura Motore X Shaft Updated 07/15/2022 Driver: Rogue St Max LS - Autoflex Fairway Woods: Rogue Max St 3HL and 7 Wood Irons: JPX 921 Hot Metal 5 to AW - Aerotech Steelfiber i95 Stiff parallel tip Wedges: Glide 4.0 54 and 58 Putter: PLD Custom Kushin 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McGolf Posted August 17, 2020 Share Posted August 17, 2020 If you inserted a .370 and a .355 I would make sure the depth of insertion. If the .370 is the same use it. If not the .355, Use a shim. some folks have used a sliver of pop can or fishing line aerospace_ray 1 Quote Driver - 44.5" 5.0 flex 10.5 deg Graphite Design XC 6S GP MCC4+ 1 deg closed Irons - 5-pw, GW stnd length 5.0 flex same grip 1 deg flat. Type low medium offset cavity back, no diggers Wedges - 56 and 60 tour grind wedge spinner and mcc4+ grip 2 flat 10 and 8 in bounce Putter - Makefield VS LH Ball - truvis Carried in a Sun Mountain C-130 USA bag - BE PROUD. HC - LH but 85 is a good number, playing in Ohio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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