Rtracymog

Anything abrasive should get the job done.  I would start with the least abrasive option and then work your way up as needed.  Simichrome paste works well on very light oxidation and other small blemishes in the finish

So I've done this a fair bit and I like it. It's not easy and when you screw up, there isn't much you can do about it. I've seen the big magnets, but for how often I do it, it's just not worth the money. I would suggest laying out some tape as a straight edge and that seemed to help a bit. I've thought about doing a sticker or something that I could use to make a pattern, but I haven't gone too far down that road as of yet. 
I got my block and a set of stamps from here https://www.clubstamping.com/ I read a lot places don't make stamps hard enough to get into the wedge and I've never had an issue with these. I don't love the text style, but I could purchase some more from somewhere else. 
It's a lot of fun and rewarding, but man it's stressful. Seeing what guys like Taranto and Dill do, just amazes me. 

So I've done this a fair bit and I like it. It's not easy and when you screw up, there isn't much you can do about it. I've seen the big magnets, but for how often I do it, it's just not worth the money. I would suggest laying out some tape as a straight edge and that seemed to help a bit. I've thought about doing a sticker or something that I could use to make a pattern, but I haven't gone too far down that road as of yet. 
I got my block and a set of stamps from here https://www.clubstamping.com/ I read a lot places don't make stamps hard enough to get into the wedge and I've never had an issue with these. I don't love the text style, but I could purchase some more from somewhere else. 
It's a lot of fun and rewarding, but man it's stressful. Seeing what guys like Taranto and Dill do, just amazes me. 

So I've done this a fair bit and I like it. It's not easy and when you screw up, there isn't much you can do about it. I've seen the big magnets, but for how often I do it, it's just not worth the money. I would suggest laying out some tape as a straight edge and that seemed to help a bit. I've thought about doing a sticker or something that I could use to make a pattern, but I haven't gone too far down that road as of yet. 
I got my block and a set of stamps from here https://www.clubstamping.com/ I read a lot places don't make stamps hard enough to get into the wedge and I've never had an issue with these. I don't love the text style, but I could purchase some more from somewhere else. 
It's a lot of fun and rewarding, but man it's stressful. Seeing what guys like Taranto and Dill do, just amazes me. 

So I've done this a fair bit and I like it. It's not easy and when you screw up, there isn't much you can do about it. I've seen the big magnets, but for how often I do it, it's just not worth the money. I would suggest laying out some tape as a straight edge and that seemed to help a bit. I've thought about doing a sticker or something that I could use to make a pattern, but I haven't gone too far down that road as of yet. 
I got my block and a set of stamps from here https://www.clubstamping.com/ I read a lot places don't make stamps hard enough to get into the wedge and I've never had an issue with these. I don't love the text style, but I could purchase some more from somewhere else. 
It's a lot of fun and rewarding, but man it's stressful. Seeing what guys like Taranto and Dill do, just amazes me. 

So I've done this a fair bit and I like it. It's not easy and when you screw up, there isn't much you can do about it. I've seen the big magnets, but for how often I do it, it's just not worth the money. I would suggest laying out some tape as a straight edge and that seemed to help a bit. I've thought about doing a sticker or something that I could use to make a pattern, but I haven't gone too far down that road as of yet. 
I got my block and a set of stamps from here https://www.clubstamping.com/ I read a lot places don't make stamps hard enough to get into the wedge and I've never had an issue with these. I don't love the text style, but I could purchase some more from somewhere else. 
It's a lot of fun and rewarding, but man it's stressful. Seeing what guys like Taranto and Dill do, just amazes me. 

So I've done this a fair bit and I like it. It's not easy and when you screw up, there isn't much you can do about it. I've seen the big magnets, but for how often I do it, it's just not worth the money. I would suggest laying out some tape as a straight edge and that seemed to help a bit. I've thought about doing a sticker or something that I could use to make a pattern, but I haven't gone too far down that road as of yet. 
I got my block and a set of stamps from here https://www.clubstamping.com/ I read a lot places don't make stamps hard enough to get into the wedge and I've never had an issue with these. I don't love the text style, but I could purchase some more from somewhere else. 
It's a lot of fun and rewarding, but man it's stressful. Seeing what guys like Taranto and Dill do, just amazes me. 

So I've done this a fair bit and I like it. It's not easy and when you screw up, there isn't much you can do about it. I've seen the big magnets, but for how often I do it, it's just not worth the money. I would suggest laying out some tape as a straight edge and that seemed to help a bit. I've thought about doing a sticker or something that I could use to make a pattern, but I haven't gone too far down that road as of yet. 
I got my block and a set of stamps from here https://www.clubstamping.com/ I read a lot places don't make stamps hard enough to get into the wedge and I've never had an issue with these. I don't love the text style, but I could purchase some more from somewhere else. 
It's a lot of fun and rewarding, but man it's stressful. Seeing what guys like Taranto and Dill do, just amazes me. 

Testers Announced!
It has been a few years, but we are very happy to have PING golf clubs back as part of our Forum Member Testing! The PING s159 are the newest wedges from PING; however, it is not just new wedges that PING is excited about for this testing opportunity. They have also released their new WebFit App that aims to simplify the often confusing wedge grind dilemma.

PING s159 Wedge Features:
The s159 wedges are now offered in six different grind options, with two brand new grinds introduced for this series (the B and H grinds). As PING worked closely with their tour professionals on an updated design and look which would appeal to more golfers.
PING has included their Friction Face that combines face blast and their optimized precision-milled grooves for what they claim is "the launch and spin control to play score-lowering shots from every distance." Add in appropriately spaced MicroMax grooves depending on the loft; these wedges are packed full of technology.
All of their loft and grind combinations have been made available in two different finishes: The Hydropearl 2.0 Chrome and Midnight.

The WebFit Wedge App:
A simple step-by-step questionnaire based on what their wedge experts use to identify the best grinds and options for their tour pros, the WebFit app aims to simplify and find the best grinds and lofts for your game.
The entire process takes only a few minutes and provides several options that best suit your answers, making the choice of knowing what grind should work for you a whole lot simpler!
Please welcome and congratulate our 4 testers!
@bens197
@johngschulz 
@aguybadatgolf 
@Leonvdwesthuizen

So I've done this a fair bit and I like it. It's not easy and when you screw up, there isn't much you can do about it. I've seen the big magnets, but for how often I do it, it's just not worth the money. I would suggest laying out some tape as a straight edge and that seemed to help a bit. I've thought about doing a sticker or something that I could use to make a pattern, but I haven't gone too far down that road as of yet. 
I got my block and a set of stamps from here https://www.clubstamping.com/ I read a lot places don't make stamps hard enough to get into the wedge and I've never had an issue with these. I don't love the text style, but I could purchase some more from somewhere else. 
It's a lot of fun and rewarding, but man it's stressful. Seeing what guys like Taranto and Dill do, just amazes me. 

We will be conducting a Live-stream Monday 1730 or 530 pm eastern time Talking about The ACCRA golf shafts with the CEO Gawain.
We will be discussing the new line up and all things golf shafts . Why because Im an equipment nut.
you can find the livestream on youtube (Mcgolf Custom Clubs) or Facebook and X both under mcgolf custom clubs
 

This was a marathon live stream and it was awesome, (in my opinion).  Some good info from Gawain of ACCRA golf and some good fitting tips too.

So I've done this a fair bit and I like it. It's not easy and when you screw up, there isn't much you can do about it. I've seen the big magnets, but for how often I do it, it's just not worth the money. I would suggest laying out some tape as a straight edge and that seemed to help a bit. I've thought about doing a sticker or something that I could use to make a pattern, but I haven't gone too far down that road as of yet. 
I got my block and a set of stamps from here https://www.clubstamping.com/ I read a lot places don't make stamps hard enough to get into the wedge and I've never had an issue with these. I don't love the text style, but I could purchase some more from somewhere else. 
It's a lot of fun and rewarding, but man it's stressful. Seeing what guys like Taranto and Dill do, just amazes me. 

Just finished my first "real" build. I had done a couple of quick reshafts and installed adapters, but this was my first go at a full set.
I fit my buddy for some Cobra T-rails at a couple of degrees up and a half inch long. He wanted to keep the purchase less than $500, so I went to work. I found some previous generation T-rails at Mike's Golf Outlet for $375 (6-PW). They looked to be in good shape and my buddy agreed so we pulled the trigger. On a good note, the club heads came quickly and the hosels were pretty clean. However, I wasn't super impressed with their service. I had sent a couple of emails and made a note in the purchase asking for a lie angle measurement. I never heard back on either front. Also, when they were shipped, they simply put the loose heads in an upside down box inside of another! No bubble wrap or protection for the heads. Needless to say I was less than impressed.
I ordered ferrules, grips and shafts from Diamond Tour and I couldn't have been happier! Grips and shafts all weighed within 1-2 grams of stated weight. Everything was safely packaged and arrived quickly. Tried to keep with the black and blue theme of the heads with matching 1" ferrules and Grafalloy supercharged shafts. The Lamkin grips don't match (I would have done CP2 wraps), but for $4 for a midsize grip, it was too good to pass up. Total here was $121.
Now to the build, the PW came in a bit light, so I knew I needed to add a tip weight and that gave me a pretty consistent swingweight to the others.
Goal Specs:
All irons at C8 (Was never going to happen because the shafts are 15g heavier than the ones he tried in the Cobras which had the ultralights and we went 1/2" long) Everything was swingweighted at D3 before epoxy.
PW 36.5"    9i 37"   8i 37.5"   7 iron 38"  6 iron 38.5" (Decided to stick with 1/2" increments despite Cobra only having 1/4" between the 9i and PW)
Weighed all the shafts and grips and cut to length. I wanted to glue the heads prior to gripping to help the air escape and make sure that everything was seated. 
The biggest issue on these clubs for me were the ferrules. I ended up ruining 3 of them because they fit too tight on the shaft and got stuck before I could really use the heads to push them on. I found that taking a bit of sandpaper to rough up the inside of the ferrules made a big difference. However, once I got the ferrules on and the head glued, it seemed that the ferrules sat just a bit too high and I couldn't get them back level to some of the hosels. You can see in the pictures what I'm talking about. Also, I wiped the ferrules multiple times and used tape to prevent the ferrule from creeping and I still had glue residue leak through on some. Then I started to use a felt belt on the ferrules and completely marred the one on the PW. I tried to be super light after that. Well I couldn't get enough heat (worried about black finish) and I don't have a shaft puller, so I had to take it to the shop to get the head removed and started over. I used the felt belt, acetone at 90 degrees to the felt belt markings and then I tried a buffer wheel with some polish and the wheel wouldn't turn on my grinder, so I just did a few quick spins with paper towel and the acetone.
Final Specs PW D6 36.5"   9i D5 37"   8i D5 37 5/8"  7i D4  38"  6i D4  38 5/8"
Give me some tips and feedback! 
How can I stop the ferrules from coming up? Did I just use too much epoxy and that's why it leaked? Do the swingweights make sense after every the measurements were done before the epoxy? Is a turning arm worth it?
 

Communicate with your fitter. Be clear on your goals, your swing, your budget, etc. Any fitter worth their salt, will ask you these things and more. Ask for an explanation of the data. Most good fitters are using high quality machines that take in a ton of data points. Based on your knowledge of the swing, they will walk you through these data points and what they are looking for in each category.
Make sure that your swing is ready for your fitting. If you come in after months of not hitting or playing sparingly, you might get very different data than from when you are in the groove. Ask questions! Learn as much as you can. Come in with an idea of the type of iron you want, but give your fitter a chance to do their job.
I know this is about trusting your fitter, but you have to do a bit of research and rely on the experts here. If you're getting a bad vibe, go with your gut. Don't just assume that you're being sold something. Think of it as you're paying for your fitter's time and expertise; not that you're paying for new clubs. Plus you can always take the data you're given and go back and try it out again on your own to see if you're seeing the same results before pulling the trigger.

Communicate with your fitter. Be clear on your goals, your swing, your budget, etc. Any fitter worth their salt, will ask you these things and more. Ask for an explanation of the data. Most good fitters are using high quality machines that take in a ton of data points. Based on your knowledge of the swing, they will walk you through these data points and what they are looking for in each category.
Make sure that your swing is ready for your fitting. If you come in after months of not hitting or playing sparingly, you might get very different data than from when you are in the groove. Ask questions! Learn as much as you can. Come in with an idea of the type of iron you want, but give your fitter a chance to do their job.
I know this is about trusting your fitter, but you have to do a bit of research and rely on the experts here. If you're getting a bad vibe, go with your gut. Don't just assume that you're being sold something. Think of it as you're paying for your fitter's time and expertise; not that you're paying for new clubs. Plus you can always take the data you're given and go back and try it out again on your own to see if you're seeing the same results before pulling the trigger.

45 days after the broomstick left France, it has arrived:




Just a small preview, details to come…

Definitely solid deals, I do see some good nicks and such in them so I would be leaning going right through Argolf. Despite Bens taking forever to arrive (Fedex issue) the CS was excellent and product is just wow in terms of finish and aesthetic!

Communicate with your fitter. Be clear on your goals, your swing, your budget, etc. Any fitter worth their salt, will ask you these things and more. Ask for an explanation of the data. Most good fitters are using high quality machines that take in a ton of data points. Based on your knowledge of the swing, they will walk you through these data points and what they are looking for in each category.
Make sure that your swing is ready for your fitting. If you come in after months of not hitting or playing sparingly, you might get very different data than from when you are in the groove. Ask questions! Learn as much as you can. Come in with an idea of the type of iron you want, but give your fitter a chance to do their job.
I know this is about trusting your fitter, but you have to do a bit of research and rely on the experts here. If you're getting a bad vibe, go with your gut. Don't just assume that you're being sold something. Think of it as you're paying for your fitter's time and expertise; not that you're paying for new clubs. Plus you can always take the data you're given and go back and try it out again on your own to see if you're seeing the same results before pulling the trigger.

Congrats guys! Hit'em long and straight!

Congrats guys! Hit'em long and straight!

Congrats guys! Hit'em long and straight!

Congrats guys! Hit'em long and straight!

Congrats guys! Hit'em long and straight!

Testers Announced!

The TaylorMade Qi10 drivers were one of our most requested products for member testing. It is no surprise to see why, either, with several PGA Tour pros putting them into their bags immediately from launch, and even Colin Morikawa finally replacing his original TaylorMade SIM in favor of the new TaylorMade Qi10 Max. Yes, that’s correct—a tour player using the Max head.
About The TaylorMade Qi10 Series
The series of drivers consists of three models: the Qi10 Max, Qi10 LS (low spin), and Qi10 Standard. Each has slightly different weight placements, but only the LS model includes a moveable weight.
The big story for these drivers is forgiveness. TaylorMade has created its first driver with 10k MOI points. To read all the finer details of why this matters, you can see our full overview here: TaylorMade Qi10 Drivers First Look 
The shorter version is TaylorMade has leveraged a multi-material design, relocated mass, and improved shapes to achieve maximum forgiveness within each model while claiming to still retain all the speed (and therefore distance) characteristics.
Other big changes to the driver include the face and crown. Where previous versions for years had a clear distinction between where the titanium support met the carbon crown, the Qi10 features a clean glossy black crown with a new blue carbon face. The blue replaces the red of the Stealth models and is their third generation of carbon driver face.

Please welcome and congratulate our 6 testers!
TaylorMade Qi10 LS
@Jmikecpa
@GolfSpy_BEN
TaylorMade Qi10 Standard
@IndyBonzo
@EMacK1961
TaylorMade Qi10 Max
@Hook DeLoft
@Michael.Sandoval33