What Have You Built Recently?

[DeBartola_B]

26 minutes ago, JRDuck40 said:

I did this for my kids a few months back. For refurb on the irons, give them a good scrub and then grab metal polish and give them a good rub down. As for cutting them down to length, a pipe cutter will work nicely (assuming you are working with steel shafts). Make sure to buy JR sized grips!

For the cut down, I would give them a little room to grow, otherwise you will be throwing new shafts on the heads every other year. 

Items you will need, 

Grips (again JR size), Grip Tape, mineral spirits OR lighter fluid, Pipe cutter, vise, club grip for vise (if you don't have one or can't find one a rubber glove will suffice). 

Have fun!

This is very helpful! and I have all the necessary items except for the Junior Grips.  Thanks for sending this over.

[JRDuck40]

22 hours ago, DeBartola_B said:

This is very helpful! and I have all the necessary items except for the Junior Grips.  Thanks for sending this over.

Happy to assist! Don't forget to repost the finished product! 

Good luck

[Fred Mitchell]

On 5/29/2023 at 11:55 AM, Golf2Much said:

I've been working on minor improvements in my mobile regripping station.   I was inspired by AJ on his Mobile Clubmaker YouTube channel on making an easy club regripping station.  Here in Key West, we do not have basements or a lot of extra space for a club making workshop.  I needed something portable that could be easily stored away when I wasn't using it and somewhat simple.  So I took AJ's initial concept and ran with it.  

It's a simple design.  It's a 2x6 with a 2x2 screwed in at the end where the catch tray bracket is attached.  AJ's initial design had a board at the end that you put against the wall when regripping.  My change was 2x2 edge catches against the countertop and prevents the station from moving when sliding on the new grip.  The edge catch seemed a little more stable and could be used in more situations.  Just beyond the clamping device is a moving bracket (for different club lengths) that supports the club head and helps align the club face straight up and down.  I have two latches connecting the slide to the base 2x6 to lock everything for easy storage.

When I ready to regrip my clubs, I catch the 2x2 on the edge, level (side by side) the 2x6 on the shelf with shims and lock it in place with to clamps.  I add the catch tray (and the solvent recapture bottle not shown), slide the bracket to the correct position for the club I'm working on and clamp the club in the vise.  In about two minutes I'm ready to go.

Lately I've stained the wood to make it look nicer and waxed the 2x6 to aid in easily moving the slide.  I also added a leveling laser.  

The laser has a magnetic base and will sit on the vise.  I shine the vertical laser line on the white slide background to help me align the club face so it's sitting at 12:00.   I usually use the laser when I'm regripping putters to help insure I have the grip's flat section as perpendicular to the face as I can get it before making minor changes after releasing the club from the vise.

When I'm done, I break everything down and I have two brackets set up over my shed window where the main 2x6 station resides.  For a simple design, it works pretty well for me when I regrip clubs for me and my friends.

 

 

I recently put grips on for the 1st time and totally lined them up wrong lol. funny part is I went and played a round to at least see if they would stay on and the golf pride script is exactly where I place my right thumb to the side of the grip so now i am going to do all mine that way on purpose. I place my thumb on there and look up at the target while my hands do their thing on the rest of the grip, its great.

[Rtracymog]

Just finished my first "real" build. I had done a couple of quick reshafts and installed adapters, but this was my first go at a full set.

I fit my buddy for some Cobra T-rails at a couple of degrees up and a half inch long. He wanted to keep the purchase less than $500, so I went to work. I found some previous generation T-rails at Mike's Golf Outlet for $375 (6-PW). They looked to be in good shape and my buddy agreed so we pulled the trigger. On a good note, the club heads came quickly and the hosels were pretty clean. However, I wasn't super impressed with their service. I had sent a couple of emails and made a note in the purchase asking for a lie angle measurement. I never heard back on either front. Also, when they were shipped, they simply put the loose heads in an upside down box inside of another! No bubble wrap or protection for the heads. Needless to say I was less than impressed.

I ordered ferrules, grips and shafts from Diamond Tour and I couldn't have been happier! Grips and shafts all weighed within 1-2 grams of stated weight. Everything was safely packaged and arrived quickly. Tried to keep with the black and blue theme of the heads with matching 1" ferrules and Grafalloy supercharged shafts. The Lamkin grips don't match (I would have done CP2 wraps), but for $4 for a midsize grip, it was too good to pass up. Total here was $121.

Now to the build, the PW came in a bit light, so I knew I needed to add a tip weight and that gave me a pretty consistent swingweight to the others.

Goal Specs:

All irons at C8 (Was never going to happen because the shafts are 15g heavier than the ones he tried in the Cobras which had the ultralights and we went 1/2" long) Everything was swingweighted at D3 before epoxy.

PW 36.5"    9i 37"   8i 37.5"   7 iron 38"  6 iron 38.5" (Decided to stick with 1/2" increments despite Cobra only having 1/4" between the 9i and PW)

Weighed all the shafts and grips and cut to length. I wanted to glue the heads prior to gripping to help the air escape and make sure that everything was seated. 

The biggest issue on these clubs for me were the ferrules. I ended up ruining 3 of them because they fit too tight on the shaft and got stuck before I could really use the heads to push them on. I found that taking a bit of sandpaper to rough up the inside of the ferrules made a big difference. However, once I got the ferrules on and the head glued, it seemed that the ferrules sat just a bit too high and I couldn't get them back level to some of the hosels. You can see in the pictures what I'm talking about. Also, I wiped the ferrules multiple times and used tape to prevent the ferrule from creeping and I still had glue residue leak through on some. Then I started to use a felt belt on the ferrules and completely marred the one on the PW. I tried to be super light after that. Well I couldn't get enough heat (worried about black finish) and I don't have a shaft puller, so I had to take it to the shop to get the head removed and started over. I used the felt belt, acetone at 90 degrees to the felt belt markings and then I tried a buffer wheel with some polish and the wheel wouldn't turn on my grinder, so I just did a few quick spins with paper towel and the acetone.

Final Specs PW D6 36.5"   9i D5 37"   8i D5 37 5/8"  7i D4  38"  6i D4  38 5/8"

Give me some tips and feedback! 

How can I stop the ferrules from coming up? Did I just use too much epoxy and that's why it leaked? Do the swingweights make sense after every the measurements were done before the epoxy? Is a turning arm worth it?

 

[Fred Mitchell]

What epoxy does everyone use for installing hosel adapters on shafts? 

[DeBartola_B]

9 minutes ago, Fred Mitchell said:

What epoxy does everyone use for installing hosel adapters on shafts? 

https://www.rockbottomgolf.com/golf-clubs/club-making-gear/accessories/attachment-golf-adhesives-30-ml-quick-set-epoxy-kit/

I have used this a handful of times with no issues.  It is nice that it dispenses an equal 1:1 ratio for you.

 

It can get messy in a hurry though, I strongly advise having some alcohol wipes on hand.

[Fred Mitchell]

9 minutes ago, DeBartola_B said:

https://www.rockbottomgolf.com/golf-clubs/club-making-gear/accessories/attachment-golf-adhesives-30-ml-quick-set-epoxy-kit/

I have used this a handful of times with no issues.  It is nice that it dispenses an equal 1:1 ratio for you.

 

It can get messy in a hurry though, I strongly advise having some alcohol wipes on hand.

Thanks, how many adapters would this setup do?

 

[DeBartola_B]

4 minutes ago, Fred Mitchell said:

Thanks, how many adapters would this setup do?

 

I have probably done 6-7 clubs on this dispenser and have ~30% remaining in the tubes.  That also comes with a few learning experiences so take that for what its worth.

[TSauer]

26 minutes ago, Fred Mitchell said:

What epoxy does everyone use for installing hosel adapters on shafts? 

I use this GolfWorks high impact epoxy for doing work with graphite: Shafting Epoxy

I also use shafting beads when doing anything with graphite: Glass Shafting Beads

If I'm doing anything with just steel shafts, I use Brampton: Brampton Epoxy

[Fred Mitchell]

1 hour ago, TSauer said:

I use this GolfWorks high impact epoxy for doing work with graphite: Shafting Epoxy

I also use shafting beads when doing anything with graphite: Glass Shafting Beads

If I'm doing anything with just steel shafts, I use Brampton: Brampton Epoxy

The Golf Works high impact epoxy , how many adapters can you get from The GW EPX1 you linked ?

 

[TSauer]

5 minutes ago, Fred Mitchell said:

The Golf Works high impact epoxy , how many adapters can you get from The GW EPX1 you linked ?

 

If you're being efficient with it, you could probably get 10 clubs out of it, give or take. I tend to dispense too much and end up letting it go to waste a lot of times.  As @DeBartola_B mentioned, there is a learning curve. But, I've put together a lot of clubs with those products and have never had any issues.

[Fred Mitchell]

15 minutes ago, TSauer said:

If you're being efficient with it, you could probably get 10 clubs out of it, give or take. I tend to dispense too much and end up letting it go to waste a lot of times.  As @DeBartola_B mentioned, there is a learning curve. But, I've put together a lot of clubs with those products and have never had any issues.

Thanks for the advice. Any tip on how to save the remainder for using in the future as far as not getting the end stooped up or proper storage?

 

[TSauer]

1 minute ago, Fred Mitchell said:

Thanks for the advice. Any tip on how to save the remainder for using in the future as far as not getting the end stooped up or proper storage?

 

I try to clean out the separate "nozzles" with a toothpick or something each time I replace the cap. I don't use mine very frequently, and that seems to work just fine. I have had a few times where I forgot to clean it or put the cap on in the opposite holes and I had to use pliers to remove it the next time. No big deal, just a little extra work

[DeBartola_B]

4 minutes ago, Fred Mitchell said:

Thanks for the advice. Any tip on how to save the remainder for using in the future as far as not getting the end stooped up or proper storage?

 

A small screw into the holes of the applicator works as well.

[ctg44]

My shaft extractor from GolfWorks just arrived, so even though it's 100+ in the garage, looks like I'll be starting on the rebuild of my wife's irons this week.  She's currently in a set of 2016 (or 2017?) Cobra ForgedTecs that used to be mine that I installed (badly) on Recoil 95 F3 shafts.  She hits them great most of the time, but a couple of them were very poorly built and need to be redone, and 1-2 of them twisted and cured before I noticed, so they do not play consistently from club to club (gapping / shot shape / etc.).  She's also a HUGE Captain America fan and I got her the Steve Rogers ferrules from BB&F to put on them, so they should look cool too (at least to her, which all that matters).

Edited August 2, 2023 by ctg44

[JRDuck40]

On 8/1/2023 at 1:58 PM, Fred Mitchell said:

The Golf Works high impact epoxy , how many adapters can you get from The GW EPX1 you linked ?

 

GW epoxy isn't all that great and the tube clogs easily. I switched to JB Weld Steel Epoxy and now have zero issues. Plus you can snag this stuff at nearly any hardware store. 

https://www.grainger.com/product/2UV83?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvsjgjNXAgAMVQBetBh1jOwyfEAQYASABEgLFOfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

[Fred Mitchell]

2 hours ago, JRDuck40 said:

GW epoxy isn't all that great and the tube clogs easily. I switched to JB Weld Steel Epoxy and now have zero issues. Plus you can snag this stuff at nearly any hardware store. 

https://www.grainger.com/product/2UV83?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvsjgjNXAgAMVQBetBh1jOwyfEAQYASABEgLFOfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

How well does the steel epoxy work on a graphite shaft driver though. I saw on some videos that tour trucks and some builders were using a 3M epoxy that was a quick set and STRONG bond but couldnt ever hear or see the tube well enough to get the number for that product. For now I am mostly looking at graphite into woods,drivers,adapters,etc.

[TSauer]

13 minutes ago, Fred Mitchell said:

How well does the steel epoxy work on a graphite shaft driver though. I saw on some videos that tour trucks and some builders were using a 3M epoxy that was a quick set and STRONG bond but couldnt ever hear or see the tube well enough to get the number for that product. For now I am mostly looking at graphite into woods,drivers,adapters,etc.

They use either the 3M DP810 or DP100, I remember looking that up before. Both of those options are around $40 or more if I remember correctly. With graphite, it's important to get something with a higher lap shear strength, around 3000 psi or more I believe. 

[Fred Mitchell]

55 minutes ago, TSauer said:

They use either the 3M DP810 or DP100, I remember looking that up before. Both of those options are around $40 or more if I remember correctly. With graphite, it's important to get something with a higher lap shear strength, around 3000 psi or more I believe. 

Its hard to tell when you look these things up how many adapters or shafts they will do. price is relative to how many the purchase will accomplish as long as you will use them before the product goes bad. 40 isnt bad if it will do a lot of adapters and or shafts, the kicker is some of the tube type require a special gun to use and the dang gun can be expensive. 

[TSauer]

1 minute ago, Fred Mitchell said:

Its hard to tell when you look these things up how many adapters or shafts they will do. price is relative to how many the purchase will accomplish as long as you will use them before the product goes bad. 40 isnt bad if it will do a lot of adapters and or shafts, the kicker is some of the tube type require a special gun to use and the dang gun can be expensive. 

Most of them seem to be around the same size of 50mL. As far as number of shafts/adapters they're able to do, really comes down to how efficient you can be while dispensing the epoxy. You are going to need the same amount of epoxy regardless of what kind you buy. I have been buying the GolfWorks stuff at $15ish dollars for a few years now and have had zero issues, and I put together quite a few shafts. The GolfWorks one, along with most others do come with the plungers needed to dispense it. I'm assuming the 3M does as well, but I have never used it so I can't be certain. 

[Fred Mitchell]

6 minutes ago, TSauer said:

Most of them seem to be around the same size of 50mL. As far as number of shafts/adapters they're able to do, really comes down to how efficient you can be while dispensing the epoxy. You are going to need the same amount of epoxy regardless of what kind you buy. I have been buying the GolfWorks stuff at $15ish dollars for a few years now and have had zero issues, and I put together quite a few shafts. The GolfWorks one, along with most others do come with the plungers needed to dispense it. I'm assuming the 3M does as well, but I have never used it so I can't be certain. 

do u  use the beads and just to clarify , u have done adapters ?

[TSauer]

1 minute ago, Fred Mitchell said:

do u  use the beads and just to clarify , u have done adapters ?

Yeah, I do adapters. I don't use that stuff for any steel shafts, only graphite wood shafts with adapters. I actually just built two Tensei wood shafts last night for some Taylormade clubs. I do use the glass beads, but you don't need to use very much at all, just a small sprinkle. I don't think I will ever have to buy another jar of them again just because of how little you need. 

[Fred Mitchell]

19 minutes ago, TSauer said:

Yeah, I do adapters. I don't use that stuff for any steel shafts, only graphite wood shafts with adapters. I actually just built two Tensei wood shafts last night for some Taylormade clubs. I do use the glass beads, but you don't need to use very much at all, just a small sprinkle. I don't think I will ever have to buy another jar of them again just because of how little you need. 

appreciate the insight.  

[JRDuck40]

23 hours ago, Fred Mitchell said:

How well does the steel epoxy work on a graphite shaft driver though. I saw on some videos that tour trucks and some builders were using a 3M epoxy that was a quick set and STRONG bond but couldnt ever hear or see the tube well enough to get the number for that product. For now I am mostly looking at graphite into woods,drivers,adapters,etc.

I've had zero issues. Built about 6 clubs for my kids. I'll be making a driver with graphite for my oldest in a few days once the head is delivered. Also making another driver for my youngest as well. Waiting on the adapter for that one currently. 

Just be sure to sand down the portion of the tip beforehand. Clean and allow time to dry. Then do not be stingy with the epoxy. You can always wipe away the excess. 

[Fred Mitchell]

2 hours ago, JRDuck40 said:

I've had zero issues. Built about 6 clubs for my kids. I'll be making a driver with graphite for my oldest in a few days once the head is delivered. Also making another driver for my youngest as well. Waiting on the adapter for that one currently. 

Just be sure to sand down the portion of the tip beforehand. Clean and allow time to dry. Then do not be stingy with the epoxy. You can always wipe away the excess. 

Sorry for so many questions. What are you using to cut the graphite shafts to length? Are you using OEM or aftermarket adapters? Do you assemble the adapter into the clubhead before epoxy as I have see done or epoxy 1st?  I have the shaft clamp and a table, getting a vise 1st chance I get to stop by Lowes. I am going to try and fund my golf habit partially by flipping a few clubs I pick up at yard sales and estate sales and selling on FB marketplace / locally 1st and last choice ebay will use the table for a vise and a table grinder with a buffing wheel to change grips, clean, polish, etc. . I picked up a set of Taylormade Burners that week that should pay for more than the vise and grinder in profit by itself when sold.I already had a Scotty Cameron putter I wanted to refurbish and also a pre Scotty Titleist  so the buffing wheels will be very handy.

[Fred Mitchell]

On 8/2/2023 at 2:34 PM, ctg44 said:

My shaft extractor from GolfWorks just arrived, so even though it's 100+ in the garage, looks like I'll be starting on the rebuild of my wife's irons this week.  She's currently in a set of 2016 (or 2017?) Cobra ForgedTecs that used to be mine that I installed (badly) on Recoil 95 F3 shafts.  She hits them great most of the time, but a couple of them were very poorly built and need to be redone, and 1-2 of them twisted and cured before I noticed, so they do not play consistently from club to club (gapping / shot shape / etc.).  She's also a HUGE Captain America fan and I got her the Steve Rogers ferrules from BB&F to put on them, so they should look cool too (at least to her, which all that matters).

updates lol

 

[TSauer]

31 minutes ago, Fred Mitchell said:

Sorry for so many questions. What are you using to cut the graphite shafts to length? Are you using OEM or aftermarket adapters? Do you assemble the adapter into the clubhead before epoxy as I have see done or epoxy 1st?  I have the shaft clamp and a table, getting a vise 1st chance I get to stop by Lowes. I am going to try and fund my golf habit partially by flipping a few clubs I pick up at yard sales and estate sales and selling on FB marketplace / locally 1st and last choice ebay will use the table for a vise and a table grinder with a buffing wheel to change grips, clean, polish, etc. . I picked up a set of Taylormade Burners that week that should pay for more than the vise and grinder in profit by itself when sold.I already had a Scotty Cameron putter I wanted to refurbish and also a pre Scotty Titleist  so the buffing wheels will be very handy.

Not OP, but I'll answer what I know.

What are you using to cut the graphite shafts to length? You want to use something that is made to cut graphite, or else you will tear fibers. I use what's called a rod saw blade and I just put it on a hacksaw. You could also just get a blade for a chopsaw or what have you.

Are you using OEM or aftermarket adapters? I don't buy OEM, there are a few reputable sellers on eBay that I have bought from and never had any issue. Also, a fraction of the  price.

Do you assemble the adapter into the clubhead before epoxy as I have see done or epoxy 1st?  I never assemble the adapter in the clubhead. I suppose you could, but there is no need to. My shafts usually stand up while they're waiting to cure (adapter side up) and the head would just be added weight that would cause the adapter to move. No need to install adapter into the head.

I will note, if you plan on pulling adapters out of graphite shafts and swapping them around, you'll want to invest in a shaft puller. Twisting irons heads off of steel shafts is fine, but twisting off an adapter or driver head could potentially destroy the fibers. You want to pull the head straight off without any cranking on it. This is the one I use, it just clamps into your vice and is pretty straightforward: https://www.golfworks.com/maltby-graphite-shaft-extractor/p/ma2007/

 

[Fred Mitchell]

57 minutes ago, TSauer said:

Not OP, but I'll answer what I know.

What are you using to cut the graphite shafts to length? You want to use something that is made to cut graphite, or else you will tear fibers. I use what's called a rod saw blade and I just put it on a hacksaw. You could also just get a blade for a chopsaw or what have you.

Are you using OEM or aftermarket adapters? I don't buy OEM, there are a few reputable sellers on eBay that I have bought from and never had any issue. Also, a fraction of the  price.

Do you assemble the adapter into the clubhead before epoxy as I have see done or epoxy 1st?  I never assemble the adapter in the clubhead. I suppose you could, but there is no need to. My shafts usually stand up while they're waiting to cure (adapter side up) and the head would just be added weight that would cause the adapter to move. No need to install adapter into the head.

I will note, if you plan on pulling adapters out of graphite shafts and swapping them around, you'll want to invest in a shaft puller. Twisting irons heads off of steel shafts is fine, but twisting off an adapter or driver head could potentially destroy the fibers. You want to pull the head straight off without any cranking on it. This is the one I use, it just clamps into your vice and is pretty straightforward: https://www.golfworks.com/maltby-graphite-shaft-extractor/p/ma2007/

 

Right now looking at new shafts, so no puller needed yet and doing the work myself to save a few bucks plus I want to learn how. I have hung up my work boots and have to find something to enjoy and stay busy working on, this set I bought to resell has been fun but will be easier once I get my table set up. I will have a buffing wheel on 1 end of table grinder and the video watched of club champion showed them using some kind of cutting wheel on a regular bench grinder cutting a graphite driver shaft down. That video was at one of their fitting locations not at their assembly place but it went smooth as glass, I just need to find out what kind of 6 inch cutting wheel to buy to cut the graphite shafts. Other than finding out what wheel I need for the grinder I have wandered over from mooching information from you to just enjoying talking to you lol. When you have time and if you want to drop me a message about anything your working on and I will try to get some pictures of my progress of a my table in progress in the next few days, still have some stuff on order as far as buffing wheels and compounds, etc. but have a decent start here and have a solid heavy steel table with rollers so I can roll it outside when using the buffer and not make a total mess in the garage. Appreciate all the insight.

[TSauer]

9 minutes ago, Fred Mitchell said:

Right now looking at new shafts, so no puller needed yet and doing the work myself to save a few bucks plus I want to learn how. I have hung up my work boots and have to find something to enjoy and stay busy working on, this set I bought to resell has been fun but will be easier once I get my table set up. I will have a buffing wheel on 1 end of table grinder and the video watched of club champion showed them using some kind of cutting wheel on a regular bench grinder cutting a graphite driver shaft down. That video was at one of their fitting locations not at their assembly place but it went smooth as glass, I just need to find out what kind of 6 inch cutting wheel to buy to cut the graphite shafts. Other than finding out what wheel I need for the grinder I have wandered over from mooching information from you to just enjoying talking to you lol. When you have time and if you want to drop me a message about anything your working on and I will try to get some pictures of my progress of a my table in progress in the next few days, still have some stuff on order as far as buffing wheels and compounds, etc. but have a decent start here and have a solid heavy steel table with rollers so I can roll it outside when using the buffer and not make a total mess in the garage. Appreciate all the insight.

No problem at all, my friend! I'm a big DIYer so I love the building aspect when it comes to golf. It looks like those cut off wheels for your grinder are pretty cheap just by doing a quick google search. Link here. I think I'm going to pick one up!

I would love to get into the restoration side of things whenever I have the time to really look for answers. Restoring old Scotty Camerons or Vokey wedges has always intrigued me. So who knows, I may be coming to you for some answers once you get your space up and running.

[Fred Mitchell]

30 minutes ago, TSauer said:

No problem at all, my friend! I'm a big DIYer so I love the building aspect when it comes to golf. It looks like those cut off wheels for your grinder are pretty cheap just by doing a quick google search. Link here. I think I'm going to pick one up!

I would love to get into the restoration side of things whenever I have the time to really look for answers. Restoring old Scotty Camerons or Vokey wedges has always intrigued me. So who knows, I may be coming to you for some answers once you get your space up and running.

I am about 500 restoring and refinishing videos ahead of you lol. I am more comfortable with the restoring been waiting to run up on more stuff to work on before springing for the vice and grander but have been buying the smaller stuff here and there for a few months. Getting the clubs to resell to finance the grinder and vise was nice and having another putter[ Titlist, pre Scotty] bundled with them to refinish along with the Scotty Laguna I already had just pushed my schedule up. The want to build my own shafts jumped on me after I started doing my own grip and seeing how much I can save buying my supplies myself and then installing it myself, not to mention doing for my son and a few friends if they want. I did end up with an odd wedge for 2$ last weekend also but its a Cobra Sand wedge with a head the size of my hand lol, bought out of curiosity. Few old drivers also a Titlist 983K and a Callaway Big Berta Warbird.