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Posts posted by McGolf
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most certainly you can, just make sure the tip diameters are the same or you will need an adapter.
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Just passing a little info along
- MaxEntropy, PlaidJacket, jp410 and 1 other
- 4
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There are bench vices quite possibly like the one you are currently using with the rubber clamp and the same vice with a different handle and smoother jaws.
Then there is a shaft vice that is held in the bench vice which is my preference. That vice can be manual or air driven depending the amount of gripping you intend to do. There is clamp that plaidjacket uses which again is a great unit. I have both. The wife actually uses the one PJ has and loves it. I am more of the ratcheting model only because of the slight adjustments need while using the level model.
to answer the question directly, go to golfworks. all the models are there for you to choose.
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If you don't see silver then you might be able to just buff it clean with some very high grit polish.
However, if you do see silver you have gone through the paint, There is a youtube video under golf club repair that show a person fixing a white head. That might the best way.
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got a first look at the putters. I still like the bird of prey.
Some notes:
1) the insert did change to a firmer/ louder type of insert. Or at least it makes a louder sound giving the feel of a firmer insert although it may not be.
2) The copy cat thing is kinda funny in that Toulon was part of the design team when with TM so,,,,,,, lets call it an extension of the design.
3) the black line will include some old friends in return of some other designs from popular putters past. stay tuned.
- JohnSmalls and cnosil
- 2
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I reality if you went for a regular iron fitting a shaft recommendation should be part of the process.
Unless there is some massive design difference between your set and the set fit with you should get your answer.
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Ruby Tuesdays, and places akin to that.
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I didn't like the TM model and still don't. I wont like this one either. just too busy.
I thought the Indy was cool but this is too much.
The bird of prey is a little better
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Don't over think it,
If you don't have a frequency machine don't worry. Follow the trimming instructions and install into the head. Then cut the butt to the desired length.
The questions you have valid to be sure and in general:
1) .370 shafts are tip trimmed according to the head they to be installed. This in turn exposes a certain amount of butt section where the flex is determined when using the frequency machine. This is by design of the maker.
2) each shaft has a profile or way the shaft will flex when swinging. That is why certain shafts play better for certain golfers than others. Based on swing speed, transition, release etc. The C-Taper is for golfers that have an aggressive swing.
- MattF, aaronjbritton, JohnSmalls and 2 others
- 5
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I took a full set of clubs and tore them down and built them back more than a few time through out the week.
Take a wedge in case you get a chance to grind, take and iron for disassembly and assembly, loft lie changes, regripping,
Take a driver for testing, you might get to reshaft and then go to the launch bay for the results.
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You will get a TON if info from Jim and the guys.
Take full advantage of the school and the all the gear they have.
I'm about 1 hr 45 min from them. below is a video where you can see some of the rooms you will be in for a few days.
- MattF and pulledabill
- 2
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a good solid stand make all the difference and can control the rate at which you lean in and how hard. Then the other hand controls the speed of the turn. lite and slow!!
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If you are that close to John, I am actually a hour and some change from him. I just had a golfer from Cedar Rapids Iowa in for a fitting and a few weeks later we built his clubs.
From a fitters perspective a mixed bag of stuff normally means a mixed bag of swings to adapt to the clubs when it should be the other way around. It is not bad to have a mixed bag just that ,as we have seen, not all makers are created equal but can be made too be.
If consistency is the issue the #1 cause IMO is the length of the club. 0% if not more of drivers built today are far too long for any golfer let alone a high HC'er. Easy fix is to just choke down a bit and see. what happens. Give it a few tries before changing.
- MaxEntropy, MattF, PlaidJacket and 1 other
- 4
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if sundays are the call Im a 15 or 22 dates
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Sanding is not the problem to smoothing out the ding. A grinder, belt sander or even a file can do the job .
However, in every case but the raw finish there is some sort of coating or finish on the head and while you are taking out the ding you are also taking of the coating. This exposes the "raw" metal. If you wipe off the club regularly and at the end of the season place a coat of wax on the area you should be good for a long time. Unless you like the rust patina look on the set.
- hartrick11 and cnosil
- 2
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Counter balance shaft are great for some people. It typically is not a massive change but a tweak in the swing. IMO smoother swingers with a good transition really do good with this type of shaft. But as we all know, everyone is different and as soon as we say yup this is it for all, someone pops up and says the opposite.
I would think if you added weights to make it heavier and now are looking for more weight in the butt section why not just take the weights out of the head and put back the originals?
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I am doubting that dicks has the folks to accomplish that.
We have the unit for doing them,,,, if they are truly bendable
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know your butt and core sizes
know your alignments
installed all the way on.
wiped off to give a new appearance when complete.
displayed when done for the customer. nothing worse Than a hodge podge mess of stix to give the golfer a feeling of "why did I come here"
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I'm an 1800 rpm guy, buttttttttt with practice and a light touch it can be done.
Others have put on a variable speed controller on them to slow them down. I have no idea if it was better or not.
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A dab of super glue on the bottom of the ferrule is the easiest way to seat the pesky sliding piece of plastic.
If the ferrule is very loose and has a collar as posted earlier, try turning to get the best fit then glue.
Yes the ferrulle is typically for display but 1) if you know its there you are looking for it each time the stix is pulled from the bag.
2) as also stated there are those that actually provide some support like the collared model.
Headed to Golfworks Academy
in Club Making/Repair & DIY Projects
Posted
always a go time when visiting