McGolf
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Posts posted by McGolf
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A lot of bourbon folks here. I represent the other side for single malts.
Took an anniversary trip to Scotland. Got practiced in the art of Scotch prior to going. Learned a little too while I was there.
Now its the glass of choice for happy hour.
The Daily drinker switches between
Dalmore
Glen Fiddich 18
Balvenie
most recently Macallen
- Kenny B, tommc23 and silver & black
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don't sweat the colors, there is a regular and oversize model that works just fine
https://www.golfworks.com/graphite-shaft-extensions/p/gse/
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If you were fit to the added 1.5" there is no need to make them longer.
The added length is to obtain a swing weight not needed to find. Graphite is lighter and the by product is a lighter swing weight.
I would suggest looking at the lie angles to ensure they are similar to the irons, as a whole the Hybrid my be more upright per design and that can be a deal breaker at the bottom of the set.
Have fun increasing your assembly techniques and seeing the fruits of that labor then start to modify your gear as needed.
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and get a butane torch
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as for the 23rd I am out of the running.
It is mrs mcgolfs birthday weekend where family is coming in.
Please keep me in mind for the next one
- MattF, MaxEntropy and tony@CIC
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Saw the title of the thread ,,, duh>
Need to check with mrs mcgolf.
- MattF, MaxEntropy and tony@CIC
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8 hours ago, MaxEntropy said:
I thought about sending him a DM in Twitter to see if he was still available/interested and to check-in, if so.
EDIT: apparently he has DM's turned off in Twitter. Either that or I'm a moron and can't figure it out.
Im in just need the date and the place.
Keeping in mind the further our the better as our fitting schedule is filling up like pouring water into a glass
- MattF, MaxEntropy and tony@CIC
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thanks for the compliment, tip weight selection is really determined by the shaft that is used for the build. Pure grips are easily installed with air but I am an old schooler and it works the same
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If you mean by "bullet weight" a smaller tip weight for the shaft. It takes a bit more work and a little more heat. There are two methods I use.
1) heat the hosel out and in much like a shaft extraction, clean out the hosel as much as you can, use an AWL to move the weight around and loosen the weight from the hosel. tap it out, this is shown in the video below.
2) most of the tip weights are either lead or brass. Mostly brass to stay away from handling lead. after applying heat in the same manner as described above. use a small drill bit to start a pilot hole in the tip weight. Then move to a larger bit. It is here where the bit typically bites and grabs the weight and simply pull it out. You are making heat with the drill bit to also help loosen the weight from the hosel. You may have to use 3 bits but usually only 2.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKA6_QSAQBM
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One of the key factor for most folks switch was the wear and tear on the body. putting the bag on and taking it can takes it toll on the golfer during the round. The additioanl storage if you are a pack rat. If nothing else you can place essentials with reach.
Things to consider when looking 1) will it fit into the trunk of the vehicle, seems easy but it does get over looked. Some cart fold into a sliver of the original size while some fold in half and take up substantial room. 2) which brings us to the ease of folding, Do you need a degree in origami to get the cart small or is it intuitive. 3) stability, carts come with 2 , 3 and 4 wheels, depending on the amount you haul can dictate the number of wheels and how they are configured. 4) adjustability. if short , tall etc, with the cart no open, adjust to your particular needs. The maladjusted cart can cause as much strain as pulling your golf bag out of the trunk a 100 time before the round.
In the beginning there were IMO only two to choose from Sun Mountain and OGIO, however bag boy, click gear and several other makers of cart have popped on the scene. If you are a searcher of the internet do a search for the top 10 cart or for that matter the top 5 carts on youtube and see what pops up.
- cbbuff, GolfSpy_SHARK, Kansas King and 1 other
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Im in, new work hours should allow for a game or two
- MattF and MaxEntropy
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a pop can cut into the shape of the shim you can get at golfworks.
another may and I say be fishing line ran up the back.
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I've watched this thread with interest as one might understand.
Lets start with a bit of common ground. The one absolute is when the ball is in the cup the hole is over.
That's about it. We all have different golfing needs, have different physical and mental attributes and experiences which makes up why golf is so fantastic, there is far more than one way to get the ball into the cup.
Much like there are good and bad teaching professionals there are good and bad fitters. Just as there are different swing methods there are different fitting methods and as posted, having the best gear doesn't always equate to the best experience. Then again, those who can use this same stuff can generate results that can be mind boggling.
So, what is a fitting or even a lesson:
1) An educational experience - you as the "fittee" should know what process will be used to come to the conclusions for your final recommendations. Be comfortable with the process. Again, much like swing lesson systems you must be comfortable in the process the professional uses. It should inform your of short comings and positives. Ask questions, why are we doing this or that. Just don't take a club and give it a sworp.
2) A discussion of your game - Tell the fitter how you play golf, where you play golf, what you want to accomplish during the fitting. Discuss good shots and bad ones. One great hit does not conclude the fitting. A series of good to great shots is more of an affirmation of the process. Let the fitter know what you feel when a club is handed to you. Let them know if you feel it was a quality shot ,, or not. It is at this point both you are the fitter are finding that "same page" to really get things dialed in. This is where you discuss swing faults possible corrections or the identification of the fault and if you intend to try a correction. What fits your eye, what you want.
3) Testing - Going through the process to find proper specifications for YOU, then put together clubs based on the findings, hit some balls look at numbers, give feed back, make sure you have a good average not just one bomb or one duffed shot. No, you will not hit every shaft or head in the house. You paid for expertise in this area not the time to hit everything on the wall and see what falls out. Personally, Dynamic testing is the way to get results. Static measurement might get you started but if you don't swing you don't know. Don't machine gun swings, take your time as you would on the course.
4) A final result/ recommendation - Once you have talked about your game, did testing to determine the proper specs of your gear, discusses where you play, how you play and your goals. The final piece will be the final selection of the gear. keep in mind the fitter will be proficient in a select number of heads, shafts, grips etc. Test the combinations to see if the new gear produces the results you are looking to accomplish. There may be need for tweaking stuff but that's the fun of the fitting. If you are not comfortable with the companies provided you can always ask about the company you are interested in and get educated information. Get an email or hard copy of your results and recommendations. This should at minimum have the all the specs, length, loft, lie, flex, head, shaft, grip and size etc. As a bonus maybe a golf ball that will work for you. Finally maybe some swing things to consider. just a good fitting should take into account your swing.
You have no obligation to purchase golf gear from the fitter but it is nice to support them if the job they performed was to your liking.
What is not a fitting:
1) It is not a demo day, it is not a "swing this and see what a computer spits out", it is not an open bay to hit the latest releases to compare your gear to. Although fun,,, not a fitting.
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The original Scotland loft and lie machine was a beast and compete with the Mitchell units.
IMO the mitchell was easier to use and probably one of the reasons they are still in business.
The True blue is an updated version of the scotland and again IMO a better unit by far.
If one were to get started it would be a good unit for reliable loft and lie changes however the cost of machine is in the eye of the beholder.
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short answer is you got the worng size.
I did that on purpose
Shims come in 370-400, 355 -370 335 - 350 and some 400.
Could it be done, Yes but at great risk to the head being dislodged. you would be much happier and at ease if you used the 335 adapter.
Oh and the 370 adapter is shorter and wont fit in the driver.
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Swing speed has nothing to do with the ease of the fitting, the fact you have limitations makes the fitters job a challenge. Much like a golfer with an overly sensitive feel for a golf club. You can neither see or feel what is going on with the golfer until they are in the both making contact, GIVING FEED BACK, and reacting to change in the equipment.
Unfortunately you are also in the that part of the career in golf that is akin to just starting. where age related issue may cause more frequent changes in gear. Just as a younger golfer will experience a growth spurt and strength, you my friend may experience just the opposite.
So, take a day, travel the 150 miles enjoy the fitting experience, learn what it is you need, make an informed decision on yout next golf purchase and above all, have fun and enjoy the retirement.
- tony@CIC, Kenny B, Eric Elliott and 5 others
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I had been building up that portion of the grip for years. When the MCC4+ came it seemed a no-brainer and still is to this day for me
To the point the MCC4+ in the tour velvet style made its way onto the driver and feel good too.
- aerospace_ray and Rickp
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pulling from and adapter is very different than a bonded club. The technique is the same the amount or time needed can be very different.
I have found about 30 sec is the average time for the application of heat before the epoxy will release in an adapter as most are made from aluminum and transfer heat rapidly. bonded heads have thicker hosels (obviously) and the addition of the head that can act and a heat sink. This time is double if not more than the hosel removal requirement.
The simple give away on the shaft is the rigidity of the tip went pulled and after it cools. Again if the tip is solid you should be good, if its mushy then things get problematic.
- Shapotomous and cnosil
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another clubmaker friend of mine developed a rash when gripping clubs, turned out it was a mild allergic reaction from being exposed to a large amount of the solvent.
Ive not heard of the issue since. However, he started the use of surgeons gloves, nitrile, or alike type and the rash went away. He also washed after each grip session.
Since that time, Ive washed my hands after each gripping session, no issue after 20+ years.
- aerospace_ray and cnosil
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On 12/9/2020 at 1:44 PM, RI_Redneck said:
A cheap set of calipers from Home Depot will tell you.
BT
and unit to measure flex.
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I've had the sun mountain pro travel bag club glider, took overseas multiple times and to Fla more times than I can count without an issue.
Only recently I found a tear in the bag by handle. After years of pulling wrapping inspecting etc, Im ok with it and got another. The unit moves with ease. is quite large and can hold just about anything .
Fitting into a truck is problematic if the car is small. a medium car it will have to go in at an angle. I drive a truck or a yukon so no real concern for me in that category.
Can someone explain the difference, if any, between an adjustable hosel vs. fixed hosel ?
in Club Making/Repair & DIY Projects
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Looks like you answered your question with in the post.
However you did mention wishon and BBTG so,,,,,,
If we use the 919th verses say a new mizuno ST driver. both are adjustable however the ease of adjustability is quite different.
Can the same be said of the rest of the fixed hosel drivers,,,, nope.
When talking about to spec or BBTG that takes on another discussion. to say who's spec and who;s BBTG. Each maker has a preference hopefully based on some science and some design limit from the CEO. I.E. which golfing demographic does the designer want to lean towards.