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McGolf

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Posts posted by McGolf

  1. Take a look at the "HIGH LAUNCH" x flex. even if the flex is mega stiff the profile of shaft can certainly change the way the ball comes off the club. v2 HL is a tip flexible shaft that adds well launch and spin. I'm guessing when you put a tighter shaft say an AXIV black or VTS tourspx xflex black too stay in the UST company would be a great choice

  2. I agree that fitting is the way to go to ensure you buy the right equipment the first time.

     

    In the original post you mentioned hitting it crazy long. Did you compare that iron to others available?

     

    I ask that because I have many stories about LM's being jacked up in stores. When a golfer starts to hit longer in comparision to their current set it is like striking gold. That is until you get to the course.

     

    If you did and the results showed longer and tighter than the current set then you may stumbled onto a good set and shaft for you. If not then see the first sentence.

  3. You might want to look into that magnaflux thing you descrbed to refinish the club.

    If all is as you say that is the one thing that stands out as different.

     

    I am with the majority here. A used club that has been refinished and shaft exchanged takes anyone outside the warrenty agreements.

  4. WD,

    If you have never been to a fitting I suggest going to do it at least once.

     

    A professional fitting will cover much more than just the shaft. As you are aware. proper length, flex, loft , lie etc...

     

    In addition to the equipment concerns you will learn about your swing too. Quite possibily how to fix some of the swing issues, assuming you are willing to listen.

     

    Not all professional fittings include 300 shafts. In my neck of the woods , or I should say hills, my highest priced shaft is $150. Now, I have access to much more expensive shafts as I am a mitsubishi dealer too. However we must taylor our business to the customer and the customer here like my current pricing and offerings.

     

    We too affer the Xcal stuff but also offer the tourspex shaft too. We cover the spectrum.

     

    Additionally, a fitting is NOT about testing the latest and greatest just because it is shinny and new. It is about the shaft actually fitting.

     

    So, I would say find some time and schedule the fitting and get all info you can out of it,.

  5. Forgiving, Forged, High quality, consitant.

     

    I would consider the passing point irons from Muira. Do a fitting no matter what. Do guess at the iron you need, know it. Then, when settle on a particular set you can special roder to suit. It take a while in season from the OEM'snow but you will be happier.

     

    THe muira is more costly but from what I am told worth it.

  6. soft stepping or even hard stepping are ways to achieve a desired flex or feel for a fine tuned set until you reach either end the set you are building.

     

    The PW or the 3 iron for instance are typically using the same shaft as the one before it or after.

  7. I noticed the flex desginator on a set of iron I was working on for a customer.

     

    Since it is the only set I really noticed. I figured the"S was for one of two things:

    1) to tell golfers and sale folk of the flex in the clubs

    2) It is particular to taper tipped clubs,

     

    I primarily work with parrallel tip shafts and have yet to see a designation of flex on the label.

     

    If they would make it about 3/16 inch shorter all would be good

  8. The 3/8 increment sounds like the easiest solution. If I decide to reshaft my irons I'll probably do it this way for kicks. The main problem is finding the ideal MOI with a new shaft. I know Wishon says to build a test club and add weight until it feels right and shots look good. Once the "ideal" is found, is the right answer to then cut another shaft an extra X inches to get the final desired SW or do you add tip weights?

     

    MOI matching is a the talent to finding the correct "moment" for the clubs. Once the first club is determined correct then the MOMENT machine comes into play for the builder. MOI is really a length based equation, so,,,, when that is found and lets say we dont have machine and 7 gram intervals is the club head weight. we then using the 3/8 length of the club is all we can do. You can swing weight to feel if you like as the weight does play into the clubs feel but it does not impact the club moment greatly. I say greatly, it does impact it for sure but not as much as length. Without adding tip weights the swing weight of the club will increase as you move down the set. If you added weight to the first club then I would suggest adding the same weight to all the clubs through the set. Trim to flex.

  9. To pull a club from a steel shaft requires heat applied in the hosel area of the club head for approximately 45 seconds (woods) to about 60 second (for irons).

    Then attempt to twist the club head from the shaft. Move the heat in a back and forth motion while moving around the hosel area to prevent paint scortching(burning). If the first attempt did not work wait about 30 seconds and do it again.

     

    Pulling a graphite shaft from a clubhead requires the same heating technique but you must pull the head straight away from the shaftin order to save it. Using a pry bar and disk does do the trick however is not nearly as precise as a puller made to do the job. There are many pullers out there, spring loaded, screw type, hydraulic and combinations of at least two.

     

    Golfworks, Golfwmith, EBAY, golf instruments, Billy Bobs, Mitchell and weiss gibson all offer shaft pullers. IMO humble opinion. If you are not pulling every day and have time on your side, then a low cost screw type or inexpensive hydro model are money well spent. However, if you are going fulltime them the hydro models such as the Weis gibson or model from ebay or even python puller (I use) is the best bet.

     

    I the past when Titleist were bore thru and the toughest pull out there, the average time to complete the pull as 30 minutes with a screw type puller from Mitchell. I bought my python puller a hydro unit and the next Titleist pull was complete in about 3 minute. That is an obvious plus. Its not that the python is that great but the hydro units make short work of the jobs assuming the clamping mechanism is up to the task. Now that most clubheads are not bore through, a screw type can very efficently pull the heads off shafts, although not as sexy as a puller with a floor jack attached, it stil can be used.

  10. Wd,

    I know professional clubmakers that swear by the MOI matching.

    From them, in the beginning is it a tough start getting the "feel" correct and then duplicating the MOI number on themachine.

    But like everything else once you are used to doing something it is second nature.

     

    Overall the effect is better ball striking as a result. Better scores should result.

     

    Another way to do it with standard equipment it to cut the clubs in 3/8 increments instead of 1/2" using the 7 gram components.

    If a golfer is very tall or very short I do this already. I suppose if the swing speed was low it would work on golfers in the middle.

    This is of course building without an MOI machine.

     

    I think MOI has merit, I just need the time to quantify the "feel" as parameter when fitting.

  11. Much like the burnt car part its about time to do the job and parts needed. If I have to put three layers of tape on just a set of eight irons that 32 layers of tape including the grip verses 16 using the right stuff. We do a lot of gripping particularly right now at the beginning of the season. Using the right gear including the proper solvent is key.

     

    If doing grips on a for yourself basis, then using what will do is ok. But repetitive usage to naptha is not something I look forward to.

     

    We dont blow on grips although I think it a great way to do the job. My other gripper just refuses to change and since sge does more than I she wins.

  12. I know every one says to use the same shafts as your irons. As I matter of fact for the first time I have the same shafts in my irons as I do in my wedges. Always before I have Rifle in my irons as DG in the wedges. I only make a full swing with a wedge if I have to go over something, and am more than likely only going to hit my irons at 80% anyway, but I was wondering if these "Spinner" shafts really add spin?

    Rick,

    I would have say a change of shaft can change the spin you place on a wedge shot.

    I do know for instance that the AXE graphite wedge shaft does add more spin. I have seen it on the flightscope in comparison to regular shafts.

    now does every "Wedge shaft" do that. Nope or much like driver shafts we would be hitting 300 plus drives everytime we switch wood shafts.

    I believe the flex profile, weight are important factors when deciding on the shaft you want. For instance, if your wedge shot are only full swings for over something as posted above then make a poor mans spinner and get an eight shaft equalto yours and put it in the wedge. Not perfect but very close.

  13. I agree using the same shaft as the shafts in the irons for feel consistency and peace of mind.

     

    however would look at how your wedges are used in the round.

     

    If your wedges are typically full shots then yep, make them the same as the irons. if you are a finesse player or partial swing shots then a spinner concept in the kbs maybe needed. That way your wedge shaft is working for you in your game

  14. If the shaft size is smaller than the core size of the grip then the overall affect is a smaller size grip.

    adding layers of tape is correct however the tape size itself can different. For instance. if using masking tape, the regular type, then I would use two layers to obtain the standard size. If using paper packing tape then I would use only one layer.

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