McGolf
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Posts posted by McGolf
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I have his books in my library
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The new maltby book is pretty cool
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This is going next to the how golf clubs work
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The Jeff's were a great combination for the aftermarket sector of the golf community. I have that book in my library
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which begs the question if that product will be back next year
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For small projects and low volume a vice is a must. a shaft clamp to hold the project is also a must.
A cut off wheel for shaft trimming. Ferrule turning can be done by hand. However if the hobby grows consider a 1 x 42 belt for sanding shaft tips and finishing ferrules.
A ruler is a must for consistency.
Now if you are a picky a frequency machine is also needed. Including a loft and lie machine.
That can get you established and on your way. If you are going to grind clubs then another machine will be needed
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Being a brand new spy I dont think I have done this before,so,,
McGolf Here, aka Jim McCleery
Own and operate McGolf Custom Clubs in Waverly
A previous PCS club maker of the year, now a top 100 golf digest club fiter (weather or not you believe in the kinda thing)
all around club nut,
If I can help let me know
Mcgolf
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I switched to a 65g UST Mayima shaft and had very good results today. It was a stock shaft from a standard R9. Launch angle was a bit higher than the RIP 2.9 but lower than my old Burner. The search will continue but I'm getting closer!
LEss than $100 and works for a late release is the AXE 6+ in stiff. If you want lower flight then get the our model
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I have install all the models with great results for golfers.
The out model is as good as it gets for the better golfer.
The SL is awesome for an SL shaft that can handle aggressive swings.
I have the FW, and SL in my bag@Iammcgolf
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If the ATTAS was that good in the R9 It should not be THAT bad in the R-11. I am not a TM player or but based on the visuals it would appear that the R-11 is more sleek/lower profile and may yield a different club length if simply pulled and placed in the new club head. I would check that first.
If you have specs of the club prior to the change have them compared, something may standout.
Secondly, I would expect the blue board to balloon again.
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I do fittings, club repairs, and new build and own a driving range here in Ohio.
We believe when you have paid for the service you do with the information as you want. If the golfer has preference to a particular OEM I try to help them with a selection and give guidance how to order the custom numbers they need,or they can get an off the rack set for me to modify. Its their choice.
At a time I was able to get Srixon and Macgregor (before the sale) in component form and did well with product. I have been approved for an Adams component account. There are a select very few that deal in Taylormade like this but it is not very public. Tyoically that means it will cost more to have built.
We carry Wishon and Swing science too however there are some other companies such as Scratch and Muira that you might want to consider before walking into the golf store.
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Take a look a golfworks for the club making bible they have. Even in its older state there is plenty of info to make valuable to this day.
I can help with you set of up of the club "shop", repairs etc.
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The serrano shaft comes in that club and in a regule flex might just what the fitter ordered.
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The graphite did not melt per-sey however you weekend it when you applied heat and then went to twisting the shaft. That separated the graphite strands and did not a transfer the force to the outer layer. much like bending a coat hangar until it breaks you did that to the inside portion of the shaft where the outside was still stuck to the wall of the hosel.
Think how hard it was turning off the steel shaft and now doing that to a pencil.
The above advice is spot on, a puller is needed using about the amount of heat.
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You have to hold the club in just about every thing you do with a club so a vice is needed.
Elevate the vice to put it in a better more ergonomic position.
IF you are looking to save time then a clamp to set in the vice is needed. Look at the speed clamp. if not a rubber clamp is just as good.
doing grips requires a catch pan, utility knife (hook blade), tape, clamp (see above) solvent( not gas, lamp oil, etc) get the real solvent and catch it in a pan then recycle to save the money. you may need to build up a grip so a brown paper packing is best but others can work.
pulling a shaft requires heat and a puller. I suggest a butane torch, and good puller, this is worth it weight in gold for time and effort.
assembly requires you measure length, frequency, loft and lie to begin with. A top mounted ruler unit is the way to go but to get started a 48 inch ruler works too. Frequency is measure with a freq machine from either GW or GS I prefer the GW model. loft and lie can be done with a bending machine but an actual loft lie machine is the way we do it.
Finishing clubs needs the ferrules done that can be the clamp and sand paper and acetone or a 1 x 42 sander and acetone.
glue is an important part of bldg. I use cardboard and a wooden coffee stix. a more GREEN ides is a flat bald screw driver and wipe it off when done. USE shafting beads.
cutting shafts can be done with a tubing cutter for steel and abrasive saw blade for graphite or a cut off wheel for both.
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[The Mitchell units are the industry standard and do cost. The refurb units are best value. I have one in my shop and will have it for ever.
The true blue is an great machine too. It is also less expensive than the Mitchells. The only issue I have heard from other clubmakers is the ability to get them. The owner/ bldr of the unit does other machine work and it would seem the TB is the second priority. The TB does do ALL clubs including the putter.
Merry Christmas
in Club Making/Fitting/Repair
Posted
To all those are not afraid to get their hands dirty, enjoy a properly finished ferrule and will brave a new club in the bag just after the glue dries,
Merry Christmas