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Testers Wanted! Titleist SM10 and Stix Golf Clubs ×

DymnDog

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Posts posted by DymnDog

  1. 49 minutes ago, BigMacQue said:

    I have researched getting another small, light bag to carry, but I have carried my new Sun Mountain and it's not cumbersome at all.  Both my last one, the HotZ, and this new Sun Mountain are stand bags.  I often walk, although usually with the push cart but sometimes carry them, and the plus side is the Sun Mountain has performed well on the cart so far.  

    Which Sun Mountain bag do you have? That sounds like it would check most of my boxes. 

  2. I have a related question about gimmies (however they're defined):

    I thought after someone says "You're good" it means I'm close enough that I'll most likely get the ball into the hole on the next stroke. So I pick up, and add one stroke to whatever I had at that point. I still consider it a gift because the next stroke (no matter how close) is never guaranteed.  

    But others seem to think that "You're good." means you can count your last stroke the same as if you got it in the hole. That seems pretty generous. 

  3. As a scientist, I enjoyed reading such a well written study! I'm impressed at the level of detail (even giving the exact measurements of soap used to wash them).

    The key point to me is that older studies (that set the prevalent mindset that submerged balls are no good) studied balls with composition and materials no longer used in newer balls.

  4. 34 minutes ago, RickyBobby_PR said:

    At 10 years you are going to find improved tech and design of the head.

    regardless it’s important to find a shaft and head combo that works with your swing and doesn’t cause you to fight the club to achieve a desired result.

    are the g425 better? Probably but you could find them not to be if the shaft in this set doesn’t feel good to you

    Makes sense. The guy offered to meet me at a local range to do some side-by-side comparisons. Seems like a good idea. Thank you. 

  5. I've been playing PING G20's (2011) that I bought used a few years ago. I have no complaints with them. Great set (driver, woods, irons and wedges). They are definitely NOT holding my game back. 

    A local guy put up a set of PING G425's (2021) irons for sale and it started me wondering if I should at least get irons newer than 10 years?

    I can't find an apples-to-apples comparison of the two sets.

    I'm hoping some PING aficionados might help me to 1.) rationalize the purchase and feel good about it, or 2.) snap me out of my fever dream and just keep grinding on the G20's because it's not going to provide a noticeable difference (besides the dopamine high of getting new clubs). 

    Thank you! 

  6. 1 hour ago, TalkBirdie2Me said:

    Aim for the middle of the green - Jon Sherman wrote an incredible book that every golfer should read called "The Four Foundations of Golf". In the book Sherman evaluates data collected from various platforms covering millions of shots and he notes that MOST amateurs come up short on their approach shots by a large amount. If Ams could get it in their heads to aim for the middle of the green they're going to be putting sooner and keeping big numbers off the card. Keeping big numbers off the card = lower handicaps. 

    I'm listening to Sherman's Book on Audible during my morning walks and it's really great. But he refers to so many illustrations I bought a physical copy too to look at when I get home. I know the Audible Book comes with a pdf of illustrations but I like the full physical book. 

  7. I have a local "no frills" rage but it has mats and grass, putting, chipping and a sand trap. They wash the balls after collection in a custom-built jerry-rigged machine that I sometimes just stand and watch in amazement at how crazy it is. Balls are mixed in quality. Cash price for a large bucket is $13 but it was only $9 a few years ago. They also sell a 10 punch card that drops the large bucket down to about $9 and on holidays they sometimes have a sale on punch cards where the cost of a large bucket drops down to about $7.

  8. If you can see my profile photo, this won't surprise you. It may or may not be a ritual to play this in my car every time I'm driving to a round. It's upbeat, optimistic, and helps me to shake off the nerves, because "I'm alright...don't got to worry about me...". Plus this video is a nice montage of Carl versus the Gopher.

     

  9. In my day job, I evaluate cost-effectiveness between prescription drugs from the perspective of a health insurance company reviewing said prescription drug for their members. The fundamental concepts I use apply very well to determine whether a new driver is 1.) "cost effective" and therefore, you should buy it.... OR 2.) it is not cost-effective and you stick with your old driver... or 3.) you evaluate another driver. 

    1.) An evaluation is always between two alternatives: a.) Your current driver and b.) The new driver in question.

    2.) There are two factors: The COST of getting the new driver versus sticking with your current driver (which is zero because you already bought it) and the EFFECT of the new driver versus sticking with your current driver. What constitutes EFFECT is subjective and individualized... but every person has in their mind what they would want to see changed if they are looking to get a new driver. (If you plan to sell your old driver then it lowers the overall cost and should be taken into account)

    3.) When comparing two drivers, the buyer needs to first determine if the new driver is more EFFECTIVE than their current driver (using whatever definition they have come up with for efficacy) because if it's not... it's a no-brainer to not buy it. Assuming that the new driver is more effective than the old driver, the buyer then needs to quantify how much more effective the new driver is (again...the definition of effectiveness is subjective and individualized). Finally, they apply whatever that measurement of more effectiveness is to the cost of the driver and ask themselves "Is gaining this additional effectiveness (whatever it is) worth the cost?" The threshold for saying that a new driver is "cost-effective" or not will vary between individuals.

    Long story short... there will always be some shoppers who'll pay anything for the slightest advancement. There will also be people who will not spend another dime on their driver (unless it breaks) no matter how amazing the advancements. But as the price goes up...that threshold that tells a shopper the effect gained is worth the price will shift... and we seem to have found a tipping point.

     

  10. 6 hours ago, GolfSpy_APH said:

    Some of the older Ping models I think could also fit this category. Although they are usually not too underrated, you can get a set that is a bit older and still really good and forgiving. The other bonus part is because they are cast irons they normally don't have the same wear signs as other forged offerings do. 

    I love finding older clubs that can still hold their own. So...

    I bought a set of 2011 Ping G20s when I first decided I was getting serious about golf. Love them. 

    My Dad also gave me his 2002 Callaway Big Berthas. Love them too. 

    Both have been great for helping a new-ish / old-ish player like me. 

  11. 6 hours ago, No3Jacks said:

    I don't have an equipment bias, I have a retail bias.  The all the clubs I play with are purchased on eBay.

    THIS. There's nothing but the marketing claims of a new line that prove it's any better than previous years (and could be worse!). With the gift of hindsight and real world experience, I prefer to troll for used clubs that have become deemed solid equipment at a fraction of the retail price.

    Golf magazines tell us we need new equipment to be better, but golf instructors hardly look in my bag. I think about that a lot. 

  12. On 10/22/2020 at 7:55 PM, verojoe said:

    Don't think of it as replacing the Apex Plus set;  think of it as just  giving them a little time off.  Then once in a while, take them out for a round for old time sake.  (That's how I ended up with 9 sets of Hogan).  Keep us posted on your decision.  

    I know this is a little old, but I love this comment. In my research for Hogan Apex Pluses people are either 1.) Still playing them or 2.) Wish they hadn't gotten rid of them. I've been collecting a few Apex Plus sets and while I haven't played a lot of other sets in my short golf life... I love these. If there are any problems with my shot... it's not the iron's fault. LOL. 

  13. 4 minutes ago, dbroz300 said:

    i've gamed lamkin crossline grips forever...i've tried every grip there is and nothing feels or is more durable than the lamkin crosslines..an affordable tried and true grip with a great reputation around golf forever.

    I'm with you. The midsized feels great in my large, pre-arthritic hands. I like the the classic look, and the durability. A couple of wipes while cleaning the clubs regains a lot of grip. 

  14. Hello friends! This is my first post, but I found this forum while researching the Divot Board. 

    I pulled the trigger via Golf Training Aids dot com because they are selling Divot Board for 15% off until Tuesday with code "Ryder" 😉 so I think it was $103 + shipping ($14!) and tax. So the shipping was a little much but I justified it with the discount. 

    Looking forward to getting important feedback on my divot pattern.

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