CRW

Don’t go for shots you can’t execute 8/10 times and you should break 100.

At 125 meters/136 yards for a 7i it’s likely club head speed. Maybe try a hybrid around 24-25* to see if it performs better for you.

Supposedly those are the full featured/fully unlocked prices. There are allegedly tiered options for the US/Launch Pro version where entry is around $3k and the price goes up based on what you want to add on.

Most of what has been released is posted here: https://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/46004-bushnell-launch-pro/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-797522

The pictures in this thread are going to give me nightmares. For all you sickos that are into this vice: https://instagram.com/leadtapechronicles?utm_medium=copy_link

That’s an issue with most launch monitors. Unless you are able to get accurate club data it’s not likely to do much other than tell you approximate club distances. You can do that on the course by hitting shots to measured distances. At the moment, truly effective portable launch monitors are limited to Trackman, GC2/4, and the upper end FlightScope lineup. Hopefully the Launch Pro/GC3 and the Full Swing Kit expand those options, because those others are out of the realm of affordability for most.

If you know what causes numbers they can be a useful tool in correcting swing flaws quickly. It's only a rabbit hole if you don't take the time and effort to educate yourself. https://blog.trackmangolf.com/effects-trackman-training-development-elite-junior-golfers/

FS - Titleist TSi3 10* Driver Head Used. No trades. $450 shipped, continental US only. SOLD to @gsabo

The Silencer was still the best version of their Woode system.

All things being equal, an increase in club speed will increase launch and spin. And 116 mph is firmly in the high speed category of players. 120+ mph are the 1%.

Mental or not, I'm in the camp that you find tools/tips to address the problem until it's no longer a problem. It sounds like the OP is on the right path.

When it comes to what you have listed I picked evolving/good. However, it seems other areas are evolving in a bad way. Specifically, the types of clientele and their lack of respect for the property when playing and their heckling when watching at tour events. Anyone who yells anything after a shot at a tour event should automatically be ejected from the premises.

The difference in a few hundred rpms spin on a full swing isn't causing errant shots, the swing you put on the ball is. There is some evidence suggesting spin actually stabilizes ball flight, at least from a distance control perspective. Urethane is going to shine most on partial swing and short game shots. However, you can play a non-urethane ball that is going to release more than urethane alternatives just fine so long as you get used to it a know how to play for the release (at least to the best of your current ability).

Same for me as well. I have a son that's a competitive golfer/HS golfer that's been playing since he was 6. It was worth it to get a membership somewhere for as much as we play. We also play most of our rounds as 9 hole rounds after work/school so we almost never end up waiting. Typically we can get 9 holes played in under 1.5 hrs. and 18 in under 3 hrs. It also helps that my club has 4 separate 18 hole courses on site. I'm sure I'll lose it when my son goes off to college because my wife will find other ways for us to spend those funds.

I guess I should have said it works about the same as traditional putting for me. I have no data, and gave up on Arccos already as the sensors kept coming lose probably because of how close my lead/top hand is to the end of the grip. I’m basing it on my average number of putts (around 30 per round, depending on how many greens I hit/miss). The most important factor for me with putting at this point seems to be the putter I’m using and whether I get along with it.

I tried it for a while and it works, but I’m not sure it’s any better than looking at the ball (at least for me). It can cause problems with longer putts because you can end up scuffing the ground behind the ball in which case the ball goes nowhere (guaranteed 3-putt). So for now I just use it some when practicing to make sure I’m not overly technical with my stroke. The heads up method forces you to be athletic and react to the distance/hole like you would if you were just tossing the ball to the hole.

The info was available for the GC3 online for a while before being pulled. It’s also cross posted on other golf forums. Assuming the US/Launch Pro version provides the same data, it is as follows (GC3 top, GC4 bottom of each section): Ball Data Launch Angle Side Angles Ball Speed Total Spin Carry Side Spin / Spin Axis Launch Angle Side Angles Ball Speed Total Spin Carry Side Spin / Spin Axis Club Data Club Head Speed Smash Factor Club Path Angle of Attack Club Head Speed Smash Factor Club Path Angle of Attack Loft/Lie Face Angle Impact Location Closure Rate Putting Analysis No Yes

I’m an anti-hoarder. I sell everything that is replaced. Either on a golf forum or on eBay. It almost always results in getting more for the items than trading in would net me. So in the end, new stuff costs me maybe half of the actual price.

Something like this to make sure you aren’t moving the club too down or left too early: https://golf.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/iron.jpg Or you can use an alignment stick with something soft on the end or over it to hit under. It can be pointed at you or at the target: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Wx1pdcuDVZ4/maxresdefault.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/proxy/_ce7AGOTyMI7ztmFl83LRtBKjZ7fxQDehuQ5XUWPt8Z-s45SNTp9HHlN74sMTiYE8EkjYDgp0I_KGb_C9kMMeMPmjvQ2bGR6aZbdXMywh0JW55AMLXLFIW08MI0lXrtjwILKkNeAObHq5UhmHLrUO0A

Very rarely. I use driver on the majority of holes and use the Decade decision tree: Occasionally I will hit 3w or 2i/u off the tee if the hole is really tight, or a dogleg would make driver too long for the hole.

You could use a towel behind the ball when hitting off mats to ensure you are getting as close to ball first contact as possible:

I haven't had a style for a long time and I think at times it hurt me. Arccos has me at -0.3 in strokes gained compared to a 0 hcp (putting at -3.7). I think it's possible my short game is a little worse and my putting a little better than that because I don't adjust pin positions. Either way, I don't get up and down enough. I was a little further from the hole on average than a 0 hcp, but not by more than a few feet, so I went from a 60* that I mostly use to a 58* and I'm trying to do more of the Stricker style shot the majority of the time. I even swapped wedges to a Vokey 58 10S a week or so ago as I've had Arccos for about a month. So we'll see if that improves things over the next few months.

I get it. It took my dad 30 years, and even then it was luck. He hit probably 20 feet right of the pin, maybe more, but the ball caught the slope just right and we all watched it roll toward and into the cup. As much as I play (about every day) I really hope it doesn't take 30 or even 54 years, but my grandfather would say if it weren't for bad luck we'd have no luck at all...(in jest, we've have plenty to be thankful for).

I'm with the others that there's way too much lost in the swing. BUT, if you want a Band-Aid, I'd turn the loft all the way down to the -1.5 (9*) setting, put the heavy weight forward, and cut the shaft down to 44.5". The loft and weight adjustments are to help keep the spin down and cutting the shaft down is to help gain some control over the club/swing in general.

No. I’m about 8 years into playing golf and it still hasn’t happened. The best I’ve done is a hole out on a par 4 from 150 or so.