Bob Pegram

I wonder how money the USGA is being paid by country clubs which are getting too short for top level tournament golf. Prostitutes! (and amateurs who shouldn't be in a position to regulate any part of golf, amateur or professional.) I use a 47.5 inch driver. It protects my back and makes me MORE consistent because it fits my swing. They will destroy tall golfer's backs with the 46 inch length limit. P.S. I don't hit the ball any farther than with shorter clubs, but I am way more consistent and my average drive is longer since I hit the ball better and hit more fairways where the ball rolls. The total distance isn't longer, just the average.

I see what happened. I didn't realize there were multiple pages and I wasn't on the first page. I did see his replies on some of his specs. I didn't know if he was the winner or was somebody else who had ordered the same clubs. Thanks for your reply.

Where is the name of the winner? It says the winner is announced. Where?

Depending on your angle of attack, the size and shape of the wedge sole should be different. Specifically, if you tend to hit your wedges with a descending clubhead path your wedges should have wider soles to prevent digging. With the wider soles the club will glide into the ball when you hit slightly behind the ball. You will get away with less than perfect contact. With a narrow sole and a descending path the club would stick in the ground at least briefly and your shot would be short or worse. Conversely if you angle of attack is parallel to the ground less bounce is fine. As long as your hands are a little ahead of the clubhead at impact a wider sole will work regardless. Wedges tend to have more bounce than years ago, but sometimes not as much as is needed.

It depends on how the shaft reacts to the golfer's swing. I used to square up the face at the last split second before impact (according to FlightScope). When I tried higher torque shafts they didn't close in time and I hit the ball to the right. Low torque shafts would hit the ball straight. I have since fixed my swing so my timing isn't so finicky. I don't know if it would make as much difference now.

Paderson makes extremely good shafts. They weave the fibers under the correct tension to get the flex they want as well as bend point, torque, etc. They apparently change the tension as they weave the shaft in order to do that. Their black shafts look better than those ugly yellowish lime green color (which are the top of the line), but they perform.

I have used a hat from Dorfman for years. It is a heavy canvas fedora hat. The entire hat including the brim is stiff enough that it doesn't droop nor get in the way even in the wind. It protects my ears and neck as well as my face and eyes. The stiff brim is wider than on a bucket hat.

I use an old steel shafted driver with lead down the shaft. It keeps my swing long and makes my golf muscles strong. Buy an old steel shafted driver or other steel shafted wood at a garage sale or thrift shop. Cut a hole in the end of the grip to insert split shot lead weights (usually used for fishing). After inserting eah one use a steel rod the right diameter to squash it into the bottom of the shaft so it doesn't slide back and forth when you swing. Hold the head of the club when you do this so there is no chance of the head coming loose. initially put in less weight than you think you can handle. Swing the club a few times each day gradually working up to 70 or more repetitions. When that becomes easy add more weight, reduce repetitions, and gradually work up to 70 or more repetitions again. Keep doing this until it is heavy enough to keep your swing timing good and your golf swing in good shape. Other than the steel rod which you can get get at most hardware stores, it is all very cheap (and works).

I use a Rife Switchback Two putter which has adjustable weights. I usually use the same red weights all the time. Each set of weights is a different color so it is easy to see at a glance which ones are on the putter (blue are 2 5 grams weights, red two 10 gram weights, and black two 15 gram weights). However if I am going to play a course with very fast greens and don't have hours to get used to the speed I will switch to the blue lighter weights. I will take the weight kit with me to the course and figure out which ones work the best on the practice green. I assume it is the same speed as on the course. I want to use about the same stroke as usual so the lighter weights make the ball go about the same distance as I am used to. Depending on your type of stroke - gravity driven pendulum or more mechanical - you could do better on faster greens with a heavier or a lighter putter (usually in that order - heavier for pendulum stroke and lighter for mnechanicsl stroke). Do some experimentation to see which works for you and whether you should switch weights at all..

Did Crossdield define what the colors mean? Is green more forgiving?

If I became a tester would I be allowed to alter the club(s) to fit me before testing? If so, great! If not, I couldn't be a tester. I use longer clubs. My waist is 45 inches off the ground with relatively short arms and torso which raises my hands farther off the ground than most people, especially those my height (6'1/2").

I agree on the high bounce 60 wedge. I use one and find it relatively easy to use. I just need to hit the ground directly under the back edge of the ball and it pops up like it should. It makes a loud thump from hitting the ground. The wedge also works well from the sand around the green. The ball gets up quickly and the wide sole prevents digging. The ball stops pretty quickly with some spin.

The history of KZG can explain (but not justify) this policy. The company waS founded in 1994 by Jennifer King and her husband. He died early on. She is not a golfer. I used to work for a Top 100 rated independent club fitter named Leith Anderson. He sold KZG, but got fed up with trying to deal with her unresonabble attitude and stopped buying their heads. It is too bad because the clubs are high quality, but the leadership is unreasonable.

That is especially true if the heel-toe weight distribution of two heads being compared is significantly different. Heel weighting closes the face and toe weighting opens it. Most modern heads have fairly low centers of gravity so a difference there would be rare. A few have a COG closer to the face which also makes the club play way differently. even with the same shaft. Weighting toward the face makes a driver swing feel more like an iron and tends to keep the face open longer.

I agree on having room for a few extra clubs (for experimenting on the range or course). Those who complain about grips getting tangled up just need to shake the bag and they all go to the bottom and come out smoothly.

It is impossible to do a good clubfitting from a website. There isn't enough information collected to do a good job fitting the shaft(s), head(s), grip(s), length(s), shaft bend point(s), shaft torque, etc. Posture, body proportions, swing style, and a lot other factos vary too much from golfer to golfer. As an example, my waist is significantly higher than on most guys my height. That raises my hands farther fromn the ground. A wrist to floor measurement doesn't take that into consideration, but it would be apparent after a SKILLFUL fitter watched me swing.

A factor most don't consider is the location of the center of gravity in the driver head. Most have a deep COG - way back away from the face. That is apparently easier to hit for most people. For some reason I don't know I hit drivers with the center of gravity close to the face much better - both straighter and farther. My guess is because it feels more lkike an iron, but nthat is just a guess. Finding a head with that COG narrows the possible choiices way down to a few. It also reduces my looking once I find a good one. My current gamer is from 2016. I spray the shots with a deep COG driver and hit the front COG ones straight - completely backwards from conventional advice.

You got to heart of the matter. The head by itself is not the answer. The head and shaft combination is what works or doesn't. Thanks for mentioning the shaft.

Actually it is the opposite. The loft (face angle) in relation to the shaft can be changed however the sole won't be quite flat on the ground when the shaft is absolutely straight (not hands forward nor back at address). However, the face angle (draw/fade) cannot be changed. It is the relationship of the sole to the face angle when the sole is flat on the ground. The lie angle can be changed. In other words, when the shaft is straight (hands not forward nor back at address) it will be more vertical (more upright) when the head is in the 'draw' setting or less vertical (flatter) than neutral when in the fade setting. A more upright setting will promote a draw and vice versa, but you are not really changing the draw/fade-open/closed face angle. By the way, if your driver and/or fairways have changable weights in the heel/toe or front/back you can adjust how fast thye face will close near impact. Weight more towards the toe or more towards the face will keep the face open longer to prevent hooks. Weight more towards the heel or more towards the back of the head will close the face faster to prevent slices.

I bought a couple dozen previous year Srixon Z-Star XVs and tested them in water with dissolved epsom salts. They barely float in that solution. I marked the top of each ball when it stopped spinning. When I re-spun each ball none of them came up to the same place twice. That means every one was extremely well balanced. Good quality balls. Long hitting off the tee and high spin around the greens too.

That the bck of my left hand and the palm of my right hand are pointing at the target at impact.

golfballs.com. Wait for their deals.

Keep hitting the 3 wood off the tee for the time being. Practice with the driver on the range. Figure out what is different about yoiur 3 wood swing and your driver swing. Copy your 3 wood swing with your driver. Stop trying to hit up on the ball with your driver. Instead, swing level with the ground through the ball. That usually leads to way more consistency. I have read that testing shows most tour pros swing level through the ball, not up on it. Swinging up on the ball makes it difficult to keep a consistent left wrist position at impact. It collapses and opens the face one time. The next time it rolls over and you hit it left. Swinging level through the ball should stop or minimize that.

If you don't play enough to keep your golfing muscles in good condition & sufficient strength there is any easy solution. Get an old steel shafted wood, cut a hole in the end of the grip. Drop split shot (usually used for fishing) into the hole one at a time. Use a steel rod with a small enough diameter that it will go through the hole to the bottom of the shaft. Hold the head and ram each piece of split shot to the bottom of the shaft so it stays in place, then add another one. Keep adding them until it is heavy enough to be like lifting weights for golf - sort of like a leaded bat in baseball. Swing it only a few times the first day so you don't hurt yourself. Gradually increase the number of repetitions until you are swinging it 50 or more times each day. It takes only about 5 minutes in the driveway. I do 70 reps. It will force you to use your legs and body to initiate your downswing and to delay your wrist uncock. It also forces a full follow through. You will swing better, hit the ball farther and straighter. You will have enough strength to control the clubface.