TitleistMike

Three reasons
Objective reviews from like minded golfers rather than Amazon or other retail sources of questionable bias or integrity.
 
Just about any topic idea or need is asked and answered. Need help ? The answer is buried somewhere.
 
Entertainment value.

Three reasons
Objective reviews from like minded golfers rather than Amazon or other retail sources of questionable bias or integrity.
 
Just about any topic idea or need is asked and answered. Need help ? The answer is buried somewhere.
 
Entertainment value.

Three reasons
Objective reviews from like minded golfers rather than Amazon or other retail sources of questionable bias or integrity.
 
Just about any topic idea or need is asked and answered. Need help ? The answer is buried somewhere.
 
Entertainment value.

Three reasons
Objective reviews from like minded golfers rather than Amazon or other retail sources of questionable bias or integrity.
 
Just about any topic idea or need is asked and answered. Need help ? The answer is buried somewhere.
 
Entertainment value.

I bought new irons in Aug Sep of 22 so I tested several including 4h.
The experiment I am working through now is I brought out my old 70s era musclebacks, put new KBS Tour shafts on and those are my current 9 iron out to 56deg.  My old 7 iron had the same loft as current 9i @38deg
Old 7 38deg = new 9 150yd
Old 8 42deg = new PW 140yd
Old 9 46deg  = new gap 130yd
Old W 52deg = new lob 110yd
Old SI 56deg = Sand Iron - maybe 4deg bounce...less than 90
An 85% swing gives sweet results. Consistent distance and I can work the ball a little bit like the good old days.
To keep my head screwed on straight I had to buy iron headcovers to help me pull the right club without a decoding ring.
There is a ton of sentiment in the irons. Graduation gift from dad, stolen in 80s and took me 15 years to track down a set on ebay. Got lucky and a set of unused heads, never shafted was on UK ebay.
I explained to a friend....I would rather shoot 90 with these old irons than 80 with all new gear.... for a little while.

I bought new irons in Aug Sep of 22 so I tested several including 4h.
The experiment I am working through now is I brought out my old 70s era musclebacks, put new KBS Tour shafts on and those are my current 9 iron out to 56deg.  My old 7 iron had the same loft as current 9i @38deg
Old 7 38deg = new 9 150yd
Old 8 42deg = new PW 140yd
Old 9 46deg  = new gap 130yd
Old W 52deg = new lob 110yd
Old SI 56deg = Sand Iron - maybe 4deg bounce...less than 90
An 85% swing gives sweet results. Consistent distance and I can work the ball a little bit like the good old days.
To keep my head screwed on straight I had to buy iron headcovers to help me pull the right club without a decoding ring.
There is a ton of sentiment in the irons. Graduation gift from dad, stolen in 80s and took me 15 years to track down a set on ebay. Got lucky and a set of unused heads, never shafted was on UK ebay.
I explained to a friend....I would rather shoot 90 with these old irons than 80 with all new gear.... for a little while.

I don't change clubs often....
Titleist tour model irons 20 years
Tommy Armour EVO irons about as long as Fred Couples. Gave up after 3 years.
Titleist 704cb forged 18 years
Ping Anser putter 22 years.
Considering move to Scotty Cameron Newport.....
 
I firmly believe it is the archer not the arrows when PROPERLY fitted.
 
Titleist makes it easy to be a better archer !

I don't change clubs often....
Titleist tour model irons 20 years
Tommy Armour EVO irons about as long as Fred Couples. Gave up after 3 years.
Titleist 704cb forged 18 years
Ping Anser putter 22 years.
Considering move to Scotty Cameron Newport.....
 
I firmly believe it is the archer not the arrows when PROPERLY fitted.
 
Titleist makes it easy to be a better archer !

Well done and trusting your swing is a breakthrough hurdle.
 
Brought back memories of my closest encounter with score in 60s. Par would be 69. I three putted from 18ft for a 70.....glad you made yours. Believe me, it does matter. .. 40 years later I am still regretting that 3 putt ! 
 
 

Well done and trusting your swing is a breakthrough hurdle.
 
Brought back memories of my closest encounter with score in 60s. Par would be 69. I three putted from 18ft for a 70.....glad you made yours. Believe me, it does matter. .. 40 years later I am still regretting that 3 putt ! 
 
 

I am your twin brother from another mother....Get fitted. For 45 years no lessons and no fittings and previously made it to scratch. Now as a fat old man, I need to make sure I have right tools to keep HI near 10. 
 
A fitting doesn't mean buy a new putter. It affirms confirms what your putt stroke tendencies are and verifies if your current putter is a GOOD fit. 
There are an abundance of arc vs straight putters under $125. 
If a better fit putter saves only 1 or 2 strokes a round, is it worth $125 ? If the fitting told you the current putter is 100% wrong fit, would you change ? I would.
I was just shaft and club fitted for irons first time. Just the right thing to do buying irons that can be modified vs off the shelf.
Next up is putter. I am really good. My friends comment complain about my putting.  I can read and get pace and line right +90% of time.  My misses are bad reads mostly rather than stroke or pace. Fitting won't change that.
The only thing left to make my putting better is get fitted.  I won't change the head from ping anser old style. All I am willing to do is change shaft and hosel orientations. The putter head will not change.
 
Hopefully fitting will say stick with this. As good as you are going to get for tool vs technique.

As others will note. 
Heads off driver fairways. Put fairway heads in shoes in travel bag. I travel with 2 pairs shoes.
Put golf towels shoes and rain gear around top of bag. Put some irons in upside down if golf bag allows.
I've seen long painter's extension pole as stiffener.

An ad showed up on golf channel Thursday night....I guess it was prepaid...

They show up in my facebook ad news feed often. Not lately.

I hear you. I have a hard time getting business leaders to understand variation, std deviation is more important than avg when evaluating alternate solutions. Statistical Test of Hypothesis is the technical term.
 
Oversimplified, if the distance difference is within about 1 std dev, the difference isn't real. It is random variability.  If you did 100 shots with each club and had a gap near 1 std dev....might be real.
 

That std dev on spin is likely bad data.
I doubt the statistical significance between items is meaningfull.  That is a VERY technical math term not an opinion. 
Lack of significance means no REAL difference. The results have enough overlap in range of values the two data sets are SIMILAR. NOT significantly different.
 
Humans want to see differences that are NOT real.  Avg is MEANINGLESS.
They are SAME club effect result...especially with only 10. Give  me 200 or 300 data points and take another look.
 
Just because average is different doesn't mean difference is REAL. std dev is a major major influence on differences. 

Yes, I have a 52 gap and use either 58 thick sand low bounce or 60 fluffy sugar sand +12 bounce.
 
I can open a 52 and make it 54/56.

I just bought 1970s Era musclebacks...George Nicoll Royale.
Had them as teenager, made it to scratch and about to put modern shafts in and see what happens with a 60 year old swing instead of 19 year old body !.
 
 

I just bought 1970s Era musclebacks...George Nicoll Royale.
Had them as teenager, made it to scratch and about to put modern shafts in and see what happens with a 60 year old swing instead of 19 year old body !.
 
 

70 muscle backs have massive hosels in comparison to those used today moving the COG towards the heel. this can be seen on alot of the best 70s golfers where they found the sweet spot and just hit it in the location. If memory serves the irons were also a 1/2" short than today's standards as well.  Hence the extra weight. YES DGs were the choice only becasue there wasn't much else.
To find a shaft that will make them play like a model isnt going to happen. becasue they are not modern. However, you can make educated selections on shafts and build to a specification. those dont change (specifications) if you are in the 70s or 2000s. Over coming a heavy head is difficult, adding weight to the butt section will make the SW come down but you just added a bunch of additional weight for the sake of SW.  I would suggest a lighter version of the DGs or KBS or Nippons of the same category you prefer. Meaning, if you like or play DGs a DG 105 or KBS tour 105 or modus 105 in the same flex can help. I know they are not the same just throwing out there similar models and lighter weights.

I bought a vintage 1970s muscleback forged club and am trying to figure out the right shaft given the 5 iron head is 10-15 grams heavier than most modern  heads.
 
What would you suggest to pick a modern shaft for older heads. Not afraid to just pick TTDG300 and not worry about, but that seems like missing the chance to put the right shaft on the irons.
My driver swing speed is 95. I have NO idea what current swing weight is. My irons are Titleist 704 CB with TTDG stiff shafts. I like the feel even though my swing speed has slowed 5-10mph vs 15 years ago.
I am thinking I can find a modern club head with nearly same headweight low offset and use as my shaft fitting demo.. add lead tape to get to same headweight for same loft. 
What do you think ?
 

I HATE the ongoing scoping shooting laser tagging every bunker bump and knob by every player on every shot. It really slows play down. And usually the people with zero distance control want eight readings before they pick a club then change their mind.
You want to speed up play, yardage books and fairway markers are all that's needed.
In cart GPS is a waste on carts only days.  I really like my GPS watch that gives me yards front and back. I've usually played my shot before partner has figured out his distance and even thought about club.
And yes, there is something added to the game when you have to step off 17 paces from the 150 to your ball and figure 167 (or 133 for the long hitters on the other side of 150.

I HATE the ongoing scoping shooting laser tagging every bunker bump and knob by every player on every shot. It really slows play down. And usually the people with zero distance control want eight readings before they pick a club then change their mind.
You want to speed up play, yardage books and fairway markers are all that's needed.
In cart GPS is a waste on carts only days.  I really like my GPS watch that gives me yards front and back. I've usually played my shot before partner has figured out his distance and even thought about club.
And yes, there is something added to the game when you have to step off 17 paces from the 150 to your ball and figure 167 (or 133 for the long hitters on the other side of 150.

I HATE the ongoing scoping shooting laser tagging every bunker bump and knob by every player on every shot. It really slows play down. And usually the people with zero distance control want eight readings before they pick a club then change their mind.
You want to speed up play, yardage books and fairway markers are all that's needed.
In cart GPS is a waste on carts only days.  I really like my GPS watch that gives me yards front and back. I've usually played my shot before partner has figured out his distance and even thought about club.
And yes, there is something added to the game when you have to step off 17 paces from the 150 to your ball and figure 167 (or 133 for the long hitters on the other side of 150.

You have 40 or 50 answers by now.
 
Slow down and create control is my simple advice. Prior scratch level experiences.
 
You don't have to bomb it to score well. The ball flight needs to be predictable. Go look up via Google  Ben Hogan distance by club as evidence reference.