McGolf
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Posts posted by McGolf
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Sometimes the rearward hit starts with a set up the adds loft to the club. I.e. the shaft goes straight through the head behind the ball. Most golf club except maybe 2 irons, have some level of forward shaft lean when the playing position. Think of it much like using the loft and lie machine (mitchell) where the loft is found the shaft is leaning towards you. That imo is the lean you would see at address.
a far as the mat goes. I place mine on top the mat. The 1/8 plastic does throw off the reading much, keep in mind the flight is first the reading is second. if you are getting the desired flight and distance. Why change.
- fixyurdivot and Rtracymog
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DLOw, the set up you have the for lie board is just fine. The issue comes in this is discussion when the lie board is placed on the hitting surface, in your case it is the hitting surface.
From the marking on your tape I would say a slight adjustment upright may be needed. That said, lie angle is more important in the lower end of the clubs 8-9-pw etc than the upper end. If the flight is ok to you then dont fix what aint broke. Again in the lower end, the slight tweak .5 to 1 degree could help in the lower if you are looking to optimize directional control.
The second thing to address is where the mark is being made. It is on the trail end of the sole indicating a slight flick/ early release/ scoop or a slightly open club face at impact.
Keep in mind this measurement is not "oh you hit it so you automatically need,,,,," this is information use in conjunction the result of the ball strike. I.E. flight. to make the proper decision.
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a surprise that you may not hear about is the Makefield Putter, A center shaft or heel mounted model. Both putt very well
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Shaft names for instance fx 65 or tx 80 dont guarantee the weight. We assume that unfortunately it occurs more often than not, Then some makers will consider the original length for the weight and some may consider the finished length for the weight who knows.
In the case if the label calls out 80g, I would expect it to be somewhere near 80g +/- 4g lets say for the sake of argument.
as RB suggest id get a hold of the folks at true temper/ PX and ask. You may actually have a fake
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I dont know much about GCs outside my little world down here past the banjo music. however a quick web search revealed two places that continually pop up in top courses to play. The Virtues and Stonelick. One is near the original course and the other is near Cincinnati. I played Stonelick but has been years... since I ve played.
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not to be a Debbie downer but this was on the front page of the their website
We are excited to host the Ohio Public Golfer's Associations Mid-AM May 14 and 15. You must be over 25 years of age to enter and this event is an individual scratch tournament. If you are interested in competing, go to www.opga.us for info and entry.
Might want to consider another venue
- MaxEntropy, MattF and tony@CIC
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16 hours ago, Tyler86 said:
No snot taken! I have little idea as to what im doing. I appreciate the insight.
I dont have any issue with using lead tip weights, i just read that they are worse to get out later.Im just guessing at the 8. Im hoping little to none will be needed. Ive been messing with lead tape etc for a while. The plan is to rough fit and weigh and go from there. Im only gonna shaft 1 club and see how it goes/fits before i consider doing the others.
The cork and powder creating a shear point is a good thought. Thanks for that one.
Whats your preferred way to add head weight to these types of shafts, permanently, after testing with lead tape?
actually lead is the easiest to take out IMO.
once you find the proper/ desired weight you will have to take apart the club insert a tip weight and put them back together trimming as needed. to get back to the original length
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Not being snotty here but some questions/answers to the questions:
1) Why add 8 grams? you are getting light weight shafts for some reason, the club is going to be light. Yes you can add weight to get to a particular SW however it will be "feel" the same. since you are tinkering, tinker without the weight first. Then add some lead tape to the head until you get a good feel, measure it and re assemble the heads with the same amount of weight. That's the whole idea of tinkering.
2) The club doesn't care what the material of the tip weight is. the installer might. Brass is popular because lead is baaaaddddd (yes this is sarcastic). Like most things its the amount of exposure and time exposed. Although not an expert, the amount of time handling the lead would be minimal or you could wear a glove and use it just the same. Yes, drilling the of the tip to make it fit is not the best result however it works. The aero tech and other makes of shafts that use lots of layers will have small tip IDs. IMO Its a result of trying to reduce torque and making the tip stiffer. You may also find that as the weight gets lighter the tip ID gets bigger.
3) When dealing with graphite shafts, tip weighting can be a day long discussion, tungsten and cork are always part of the conversation. This method was developed for the steel shaft and not recommended for graphite for fear of creating a shear point inside the shaft and adding some gross amount of weight thus totally wrecking the profile of the shaft. I know as I am about to send this that another reader will add in and say "but I used the tungsten and cork without an issue" and that is ok. I'm just telling you that method wasn't for graphite.
4) Welcome to clubmaking and the several different ways to get to the same place. Wait until we start talking about trimming coke cans for shims. :)
- Syks7, MattWillGolf, Kenny B and 5 others
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On 4/3/2022 at 1:17 PM, Tom the Golf Nut said:
This brings up a good question. Does anyone know the tolerances the factory has to go by for putter grip installation?
I was at a local golf shop and a guy wanted a new grip on his putter. The old one was cut off. New tape and slid the grip on. He set it on the floor looked down the shaft twisted a little and said here you go. Nobody's eyes that calibrated. I know I take things to the extreme but its because I can, and have all the tools from when I was a machinist many moons ago.
Mostly the OEM would set up a jig of sorts to ensure anyone putting on the grip would put on in the same fashion. I.E lock it in a clamp with the face resting on a fence of some sort and then ensure the grip is facing the proper position. Is it measured or lasered. I doubt it. Just making the rig for easy install.
- GaDawg and Tom the Golf Nut
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Id stay away from the oven they with the significant amount of carbon fiber in the head as part of the design,
Hot metal can be moved easily with a butane torch or even a propane torch with applications of heat in 10 on 5 off intervals. about 3 -4 times in a row. The trick is to holf the club in the position you want the goo to flow too not from.
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I’ve done some testing now that they are in fitting system. I’ll say that all that think it looks like another club style, that after hitting it you will think they all look like the D9
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I can be done you need to know the size of the arbor as Tom said above and how the grinder or future cutting wheel is secured to the shaft.
I can be free wheeling or it wont cut. In the past I had an arbor extension that held the cutting wheel. I put the wheel a bit further from the body of the unit which helped me.
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Im in, sent the pay pal last night,
Haven't been over the bridge in decades will be nice to visit an old stomping ground on the way there.
hopefully blue crab is in season.
- cnosil, cksurfdude, Golfspy_CG2 and 3 others
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https://www.golfworks.com/single-spool-tape-dispenser/p/sx2td/ here one that only has one side. if you are doing more than just your own these are worth the money.
Ive had mine since 2000
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https://www.golfworks.com/double-spool-tape-dispenser/p/gw1100/ try this. Ive had one for years.
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The answer it yes you should be concerned. The shaft twisted in the head and your ferrule is toast.
Have the shaft pulled and inspected for damage in general (its not as if a clubmaker would have an atomic powered microscope to see the fibers) and reinstalled with the correct ferrule.
99 times out of 100 this is not an issue but better to check than throwing the head down the fairway.
- Vegan_Golfer_PNW, GaDawg and cnosil
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As was posted above, RB is correct. The fitting process should be about finding the spec for your game and then applying it to the clubs available.
If there is a club in the bag you cant do without, or just want to try, then as already suggest hit yours to make sure there actually is a club that can beat it.
I have had a golfer come in that I fit a few years ago and still cant beat the performance by a margin that wouldn't suggest getting a new stix.
- mynerds, cnosil and JohnSmalls
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On 3/17/2022 at 3:34 PM, RickyBobby_PR said:
A carried fitter has no more access than a sales rep from the same brand. Tolerances for swings weights are typically 1-2 points. They request d4 and get d2 that’s within tolerance.
They request shorter shaft and to get swingweight to match the default but it comes in lighter by 1.5 still within tolerance.
Ime certified fitter doesn’t mean a whole lot. Definitely doesn’t gurantee a good fitting and I’ve seen that firsthand with Ping, Titleist and TaylorMade.
Not to mention you can literally read peoples experiences with what they requested from an OEM and see they didn’t even get close to it. TaylorMade and Callaway are two of the brands that brands with recent issues. Mizuno and titleist lately have joined that group
I can only attest to my experience and I do have a greater access to the company when needed.
Id aggree not all fitters are on the same level. however it also means not everyone is going to get a poor fitting either and to the point a 1 -2 sw pt change would be unnoticed by the largest percentage of golfers. Most only feel the difference is when the spec sheet is read. Keeping mind of course being on mark is more preferable.
To last comment about mizuno and others, I have a set of new irons that are off by more than that and will be correcting shortly. This is a shame it occurs more frequently now.
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On 3/17/2022 at 5:04 PM, MattWillGolf said:
Earlier this year I tried my hand at replacing ferrules. My first attempt was on a wedge. It didn’t particularly go as planned. I was able to pull the head and clean things up quite easily enough. Then all hell broke me loose.
But I learned. I forgot to mark the shaft in order to return to the correct position. I didn’t dry fit the ferrule. I prepped the epoxy, applied epoxy to the shaft, inserted the shaft into the ferrule and after partial insertion it got stuck. I tried pushing it further with the club head which pretty much slightly mushroomed the ferrule. 
Panic set it at this point and I grabbed a pair of channel lock pliers and brute forced the ferrule on and then was able to get the club head on. Then set it to dry without properly aligning the shaft. While the job was complete it was not aesthetically pleasing to me. Apart from misalignment of the shaft with the grip logo off at an odd angle, bits of epoxy on the club head and the shaft sticker looking out of place, the ferrule had lovely plier teeth marks in it. They didn’t buff out.
Fast forward to Matt dropping the club in a box, going to UPS and shipping it to Jim @McGolf to make it right. The club has a now safely home in my bag. As usual Jim did a great job and it looks great.
I wondered what made the mark on the ferrule. Glad you liked it. I keep getting these bright colored ferrules and none of the them are same. Pretty cool IMO
- MattF, cksurfdude and MattWillGolf
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The certified fitter has access to an inside person to ask for specific parameters after the fitting.
If they didn't get the swing weight they asked for then how was it in tolerance?
And thats why we measure the stuff when it comes in.
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If the fitter is certified with Callaway he/ she can ask for the specific parameters you want.
The lie angle of the club is flatter to begin with. If you hit is well the shorter club will be easier to hit
Regripping and Swing weight change
in Club Making/Repair & DIY Projects
Posted · Edited by McGolf
at just over 12 grams you should see a change of about 3 sw pt. That is a the point when most avid golfers may feel a noticeable difference in the "feel" of the clubs. The other part of the equation is the accros grip is also a bit longer to accept the disk. if you are using the club to the end of the grip it may also through of the "feel" of the club and affect it by maybe a swing point,,,, maybe.
If you want to make the club feel lighter you can do a few things:
1) take the grips off and put a strip of lead tape under the fingers equal to the 10 grams. The Swing weight will not come back as measured but the feel of the weight in the grip will.
2) golf works used to sell tour lock weights. and easy way to place weight in the butt of the club. Balance certified is my choice but a bit more $$$$.
Id take the clubs out a few more times to see if you can get used to it. If not try back weighting.
If you are a smoother less aggressive swing the added feel of the weight can throw you off. If you are average or more aggressive in this area it may be better and take a few more swings to get used too.