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THE EDISON / VOKEY DILEMNA


BostonSal

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Edison Forged wedges are constructed similarly to numbered irons and are thus more forgiving on full shots than are classic blade style wedges. 

That's a plus in their favor as I would see it.

On the minus side--from my perspective, of course--is that they ALL have the Reid Lockhart style sole later adopted by Hogan and a number of other manufactures who believe in the single, versatile sole grind philosophy. 

This includes a former manufacturer who offered wedges in ONE DEGREE INCREMENTS but with only the one Reid Lockhart grind--

I can't remember their name offhand.  [ Now I do; it was SCOR. ]

Anyway, that makes them too bouncy to get the leading edge down on little finesse shots, played from forward in the stance , that I like  to play. One has to deloft the club to get the leading edge all the way down.  That's impossible with the ball played forward, plus delofting the club is not what one wants.

 

Although the choices were a little bit diminished--I double and triple checked this--with the new SM8 line, older Titleist/Vokey series like my SM7s offered multiple sole grinds within the specific lofts.  This is more in line with my own philosophy and more important, style of playing.  But for playing full shots with the stronger lofts in the collection, classic design Vokeys are noticeably less forging than are the perimeter weighted Edisons.

 

So now we come to the question:  Is it more important to have a matching set of wedges intended to be played together, or is there no loss in consistency by mixing and matching the wedge set?  Just going out and trying it both ways doesn't always answer the question.  One's head is playing too big a role in the experience.

Thoughts?

 

 

 

Edited by BostonSal

Louisville Golf Persimmon___2, 4, 5, 7-woods;    Epon AF-906___driving iron;   Titleist T100 5, 6, 7, 8, 9-irons; 

Titleist T100S___48°;     Edison 2.0___53º;     Titleist SM-9 (T)___58º;   Tad Moore Otto Hackbarth___putter;   

Titleist Pro V1x___ball

 

 

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2 hours ago, BostonSal said:

So now we come to the question:  Is it more important to have a matching set of wedges intended to be played together, or is there no loss in consistency by mixing and matching the wedge set?  Just going out and trying it both ways doesn't always answer the question.  One's head is playing too big a role in the experience.

Thoughts?

 

 

 

Play the clubs that enable you to get the ball in the hole in the fewest strokes;  so you need clubs that will enable you to hit a variety of shots.   There is no requirement to play a single brand or matched set of wedges.  

Driver:  :ping-small: G400 Max 9* w/ KBS Tour Driven
Fairway: :titelist-small: TS3 15*  w/Project X Hzardous Smoke
Hybrids:  :titelist-small: 915H 21* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
                :titelist-small: 915H  24*  w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype        
Irons:      :honma:TR20V 6-11 w/Vizard TR20-85 Graphite
Wedge:  :titleist-small: 54/12D, 60/8M w/:Accra iWedge 90 Graphite
Putter:   Sacks Parente MC 3 Stripe

Backup Putters:  :odyssey-small: Milled Collection RSX 2, :seemore-small: mFGP2, :cameron-small: Futura 5W, :taylormade-small:TM-180

Member:  MGS Hitsquad since 2017697979773_DSCN2368(Custom).JPG.a1a25f5e430d9eebae93c5d652cbd4b9.JPG

 

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22 hours ago, BostonSal said:

Edison Forged wedges are constructed similarly to numbered irons and are thus more forgiving on full shots than are classic blade style wedges. 

That's a plus in their favor as I would see it.

On the minus side--from my perspective, of course--is that they ALL have the Reid Lockhart style sole later adopted by Hogan and a number of other manufactures who believe in the single, versatile sole grind philosophy. 

This includes a former manufacturer who offered wedges in ONE DEGREE INCREMENTS but with only the one Reid Lockhart grind--

I can't remember their name offhand.  [ Now I do; it was SCOR. ]

Anyway, that makes them too bouncy to get the leading edge down on little finesse shots, played from forward in the stance , that I like  to play. One has to deloft the club to get the leading edge all the way down.  That's impossible with the ball played forward, plus delofting the club is not what one wants.

 

Although the choices were a little bit diminished--I double and triple checked this--with the new SM8 line, older Titleist/Vokey series like my SM7s offered multiple sole grinds within the specific lofts.  This is more in line with my own philosophy and more important, style of playing.  But for playing full shots with the stronger lofts in the collection, classic design Vokeys are noticeably less forging than are the perimeter weighted Edisons.

 

So now we come to the question:  Is it more important to have a matching set of wedges intended to be played together, or is there no loss in consistency by mixing and matching the wedge set?  Just going out and trying it both ways doesn't always answer the question.  One's head is playing too big a role in the experience.

Thoughts?

 

 

 

I’m a huge SCOR fan boy and still have the 52 in my bag because I find it versatile. Prior to that I gamed my old Ping Eye 2 W as my gap wedge. Clearly I like bounce.

Hame what works for your game. Just be sure to track data - I’ve learned the hard way that my perceptions about what was working down don’t always match up with reality. 
 

I’ve wrestled a bit with the move to Edisons. I’ve got them both in now and since I only carry 13 clubs I’ve put the SCOR 52 in for chipping - why not? 
 

So for you there’s no reason why you shouldn’t consider two different brands or an older version of a brand/model in your bag.

 

Good luck 

Taylor Made Stealth 2 10.5 Diamana S plus 60  Aldila  R flex   - 42.25 inches 

SMT 4 wood bassara R flex, four wood head, 3 wood shaft

Ping G410 7, 9 wood  Alta 65 R flex

Srixon ZX5 MK II  5-GW - UST recoil Dart 65 R flex

India 52,56 (60 pending)  UST recoil 75's R flex  

Evon roll ER 5 32 inches

It's our offseason so auditioning candidates - looking for that right mix of low spin long, more spin around the greens - TBD   

 

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2 hours ago, revkev said:

Have what works for your game. Just be sure to track data - I’ve learned the hard way that my perceptions about what was working down don’t always match up with reality.  Good luck.
 

 

Tracking data, sir, is very appropriate for better, more serious players like yourself.  

I don't dispute that for a moment.

I'm assuming that you're a mature man, but I'm a senior mostly likely older than you. [Just a guess. Please take no offense.]

I play weekday social / fresh air golf with other retired, overaged juvenile delinquents like myself.

One tries to play one's best no matter what type of play with which one is involved, to be sure,

but obsession levels vary, and our side bets rarely include anybody's ranch deed.

 

My certainty that I struggle with excessive bounce is largely based on chunked shots

going back to the seventies when trying to play short sided lobs with a bouncy club.

I don't remember the exact year that the 691 Model Cleveland zero bounce 58 came out,

but that very specific club opened my eyes completely to the difference between playing a hard back up pitch,

a bump and run chip, and a soft, minimal rollout  lob,

and it was a lesson that  I was actually able to retain!

Thank you for your comments, Revkey, and good luck to you as well.

 

 

Edited by BostonSal

Louisville Golf Persimmon___2, 4, 5, 7-woods;    Epon AF-906___driving iron;   Titleist T100 5, 6, 7, 8, 9-irons; 

Titleist T100S___48°;     Edison 2.0___53º;     Titleist SM-9 (T)___58º;   Tad Moore Otto Hackbarth___putter;   

Titleist Pro V1x___ball

 

 

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